15 June - It is time to head back home

 

The homestay was just a 15 minute drive to the airport. We drove straight to the Hertz Rental sector for car return. Returning the car to Hertz was completely hassle free. I first drove to the inspection area where a genial gentleman went around the car, took photos, made a thorough examination and took the keys. He said that all was okay with the car and that we could go to the Hertz office to make the rental payment. The Chevrolet Impala had served us well and not once did she even sigh during the 45 days I was at its wheel. The payment formalities were completed in less than 10 minutes. I asked for the lady who had given me the brand new car and was told that she was off duty at the time. I left her a couple of Record Drive coasters and copies of my books with the gentleman who took the payment. The experience with Hertz car rental in Australia and Canada have been great, superb cars and exceptional service. Though they are a bit pricier than some of the rest the quality of cars and service accommodate that premium.

We were very early at the airport for check in. we killed time over coffee and idle talk. Later we checked in electronically, tagged the baggage and took the boarding passes for the flights we were on. Hetal was scheduled to fly Air China via Beijing to Mumbai and I had one through Hong Kong to Chennai with Cathay. Hetal had quite a scare when her passport and tickets were compared. There was a mismatch in the two names and after a lot of back and forth she had her boarding passes. It was our luck that we had reached early. If we were in the nick of time she could have been refused on the technicality if the flight had been overbooked. In the end all panned out well. We said our goodbyes and left for our respective gates. It had been a wonderful team effort all the way from Newfoundland to Victoria.

While waiting for the gate to open I reminisced about the 45 day sojourn in Canada. The roundtrip Trans Canada Highway Expedition was the 13th successfully completed Record Drive, a passion that surfaced in 2010. The brand new Chevy Impala, hired from Hertz, was my companion for 18001 km consuming less than1500 litres of petrol at an average cost of C$ 1.28 per litre (less than INR 68) for a mileage of over 12 km per litre. With the completion of this expedition I have all the four longest highways in the world under my belt - Australia Highway1, Trans Siberian Highway, Trans Canada Highway and Indian Golden Quadrilateral - all completed solo, a record of unbelievable proportions for a person who doesn't even know how to change tyres of a car! I believe that respect for other souls will get you respect from them too. And, I believe that the cars I drive have souls too. Trouble free expeditions are what I have got in return for respecting them.

It is time to fly back home to family, friends, colleagues and work. Adieu Canada, I enjoyed being part of you for 45 days. Drinking water from the tap, a crime free society, friendly people, awesome landscape, brilliant infrastructure friendly to abled, disabled and pets, pollution free environment, respect for pedestrians, and many such positives are my takeaways.

13/14 June - Victoria to Richmond & the day after

 It was a first for us, the experience of tenting out. I had bought the tent as an emergency provision for the drive to London. It did take us some time to set up the tent even though instructions were clear. Hetal had the brains and the creativity to understand the instructions better. It would be unfair if I did not admit that she set up the tent and I stayed in it! We did not have mats. The sleeping bag was not enough protection from the sharp grass and undulations on the ground. It also got extremely cold during the night. However, it was a wonderful experience and one that I will repeat in my future ventures because of the cost saving and the novelty. Next time I have to pack a mat and fleece blanket too. The Gardenside Acres property and its owners, Janet and Scot, treat their customers with a lot of warmth and hospitality. The location is awesome being just a stone’s throw away from the pride of Victoria, the Butchart Gardens. It took some time to pack the tent pack as it was drenched in dew. 

Breakfast served by Scott was way beyond what I could eat at one meal. While I had the farm fresh eggs made into an omelette, freshly baked bread with home made blueberry and blackberry jam and a thick slice of ham, I packed the lovely waffle with maple syrup, cream and more blueberry jam for lunch on board the ferry to Horseshoe Bay. Hetal had homemade granola with strawberry sauce, pancakes with homemade blueberry sauce, orange juice, yogurt and superb coffee. Every home in that part of Victoria seemed to be a retail outlet for what they produce. A small unmanned stall with the products are kept with a price stand and a money drop box. This speaks highly of the integrity of the people.

Even though we had booked an afternoon ferry we left the property after the heavy breakfast with the intention of a leisurely drive to Nanaimo. We stopped at as many lookout points as possible on the way. With all that we arrived early at the ferry terminal and had to wait a substantial time for the scheduled ferry at 1.15 pm.

The ferry was in time and the 100 minute crossing brought us into Horseshoe Bay by about 3 pm. I had booked a homestay in Richmond for our stay. I picked the place because of its proximity to the airport. This suburb of Vancouver is a rich Chinese neighborhood and the homestay I booked also belonged to one of the community. The large house had all modern facilities, large rooms with en suite arrangements and ample parking. The caretaker lady who was staying on the premise was an ever smiling middle aged lady. She explained the do’s and don’ts of the homestay before we occupied the first floor room. Her understanding of the English language was as facile as my Mandarin!

Since I would have to return the Hertz rental car at the airport I spoke to them to ascertain what the total amount would be. I was told that I would have to pay only the amount I had contracted with them for at the time of hiring it, which was 3009 CAD. They told me that they had not received any traffic penalties or toll bookings. I could not believe my ears. I had been in a few situations where I was sure that I had picked up traffic fines. Since I had come out without one I maintained a clean record on my overseas drives to London, in Australia, New Zealand and Canada.

There was a lot of packing and re-arrangements to do with the luggage to ensure that we remained within the free limits prescribed by the airline. There were some more things to buy in the two days in Richmond. A handy portable luggage weighing scale helped us discard that which was not necessary. After walking around a bit in the neighborhood, marveling at the huge mansions and the esoteric boats that were parked in front of some homes we stopped at a McDonalds for dinner. What we experienced there was something I had never in Canada before. The outlet was filled to capacity with smoking Chinese cheering some soccer team in a game that was being live telecast and shown on TVs placed in vantage positions within the restaurant. At times the noise got under our skins, but they could care less.

On the second day in Richmond we decided to do a bit of sights seeing and some shopping. A short drive away from the homestay was the historic Gulf of Georgia Cannery where salmon fished from the abutting Fraser River were sorted, cleaned, packed, cooked, labelled and shipped all over Europe and US for many years before it was converted into a museum. The tour gave superb insight into the use of Chinese and First Nations adults and children in less than human conditions to further economic interests. The gradual mechanization, economic seesaw, transformation of the cannery and such other aspects were exceptionally described by Angelina, a Chinese descendant of an erstwhile immigrant who worked in the factory.

The International Buddhist Society is a Chinese Buddhist Temple, that officially practices Mahayana Buddhism. Donations from two Hong Kong residents helped in setting up of the temple in 1979. The architecture of the temple is based on the Forbidden City in Beijing. Besides the centre of the temple which is the Main Gracious Hall is a hall that houses the five great Buddhas and Bodhisattva statues. A classical Chinese garden with rock landscape, gazebos, stone bridge, lotus ponds and plenty of bonsais welcome visitors to the hallowed grounds. The wisdom fountain is said to have cleansing properties while the Siddhartha Gautama Pool recreate the birth legend of the Great One.

While traveling in Richmond and Burnaby I got the feeling that I was in some Chinese city. The impact of early and modern immigration from that country is a stark reality. Lifestyle, cultural and societal impacts, display of affluence are all there for one to see and experience.

It is time to leave for my home country after 45 days of a super expedition with bags full of memories and much to cherish. It is time to start working on the next dream.

12 June - Whistler to Victoria - Day 39 of TCE

The room in the Pinnacle Hotel had been extremely comfortable. Last evening I was told that the 84 rooms that the property has are almost every day sold out, be it winter or summer. The manager, who hailed from Sri Lanka, told me that when the previous day had started there were plenty of rooms yet to be booked. However, by late evening they were sold out. I was witness to the snaking queues at the check-in counter yesterday even as I was checking in. In winter large groups descend into Whistler for skiing. The groups are block booked into hotels by tour agencies. The advantage with such groups is that they stay for a minimum of 7 days. In keeping with the requirement of such arrivals the room is furnished amply with arrangements for cooking and serving. Besides, the hotel has laundry facilities for inmates. I was surprised to see a jaccuzi in the bedroom apart from the en suite complements. The balcony of the room is meant for those who want to appreciate the quiet of the city and spent some time in contemplation.

I had an afternoon sailing from Departure Bay to Horseshoe Bay for the transit from Victoria to Vancouver. Therefore, I did not initially plan to leave before 10 am. However, when I went through the ferry schedule I noticed that there is an earlier sailing at 11 am. Since I had nothing left to do at that hour in the city I left the hotel, after breakfast, by 8.30 am. Driving leisurely on the Sky to Sea route from the scenic Whistler mountain premise through Squamish and Howe Sound with breath-taking views of the mountains on one side and islands and seas on the other, I reached what I thought was the BC ferries terminal in Horseshoe Bay. However, the premises looked different from where I had been last month. At a ferry counter a gentleman handed me a pre-printed sheet showing directions for vehicles to the loading terminal and cautioned me not to follow the GPS directions! The pre-printed slip spoke out loudly that every now and then people land up in the wrong place, guided by their GPS! I had landed in Horseshoe Village, which was the terminal meant for foot passengers to report to.

Even after taking the rather long detour to the vehicle terminal I reached just after 10 am. The warden at the head of the queue told me that the 11 am ferry had been delayed due to a medical emergency on board and that I would be able to take the delayed sailing past noon. That was surely a stroke of good luck – the delayed sailing and slot availability – which I have experienced all through the expedition. The chance to sail early from Horseshoe Bay implied that I could be at the final destination a couple of hours before the originally scheduled time. The behemoth of a ferry loaded more than 300 vehicles and sailed at a half hour past noon and deposited me in Departure Bay almost at the stroke of 2 pm.

   

It was the culmination of a dream. I arrived at the Mile Zero Monument at 1602 hours signifying the successful completion of the second leg of the TCE from Mile One Center, St. John's, Newfoundland to Mile Zero Monument, Victoria, British Columbia in 466 hours and 45 minutes. The round trip between Victoria and St. John's was completed in 942 hours. Possibly, a never before done trip and certainly not by an Indian. A proud moment and time to thank the Almighty, family, friends and well-wishers for support, guidance and appreciation.

There was a lot of construction activity near the Monument site and I was doubtful if I would find parking in the vicinity to complete the photo formalities. As luck would have it, I found a space beside the Terry Fox monument. A mother and son on a stroll in the area obliged me with photographs and shared a few moments with me before I left the Monument with a great sense of achievement. The thirteenth expedition of Record Drive had been successfully completed. There had not been any glitches in the planning and scheduling of the expedition that had led to major deviations. Yes, there had been a couple of times when I had to think on my feet and make alternate arrangements. That was minor as compared to show stopper incidents.

To deal with any eventuality I invariably carry a tent and sleeping bag, so that a wayside or the car could become a decent overnight halt. But, over the past six international expeditions I have never had an occasion to use them. Therefore, to put them to use I had reserved a campground for the night halt in Victoria. I did not have any prior experience using a campground and therefore, I did not know what to expect. The tent slot, almost behind the Butchart Gardens, was in the Gardenside Acres Tent and Breakfast Campground property of Janet and Scott, a most delightful couple. Janet, who checked me in told me the options I could choose from. I chose a slot in front of the house, which was closer to the toilet and shower facilities, both makeshift ones. The campground operated only between mid-May and September, after which it would get too cold to tenting.

What does one do with an abandoned limestone quarry and a defunct cement factory? Turn it into one of the most amazing gardens in the world that has been in bloom for more than 100 years, as was the vision and perseverance of a couple of individuals and continued by successive generations. Jennie Butchart started a tradition in 1904 that continues to this day. She turned all challenges to beautify the worked-out quarry into unique garden features with the help of professional advice and personal assistance. The garden was started with collection of Robert and Jennie Butchart from their travels around the world and got gradually extended to the world famous Garden that it is today. More than a million visitors experience the lovely blooms annually, which became a National Historic Site of Canada upon turning a 100 years in 2004.

The deep Sunken Garden Lake was developed to breed trout that used to respond to Mr Butchart's handclaps, it is said. The Ross Fountain, whose water rises to over 70 feet, was installed by a third generation successor with the help of his plumber and electrician to commemorate the 60th anniversary of the Garden in 1964. The vast manicured garden, where everything has a place and everything is in its place, has a Concert Lawn, a fireworks display area, the Ross Carousal, a magnificent Dragon Fountain, the Fountain of Three Sturgeons from where one gets a magnificent view of the erstwhile Butchart Residence and a superb gift and souvenir shop.

The 22 hectare Gardens within a 55 hectare estate comprise many segments and cannot be covered in less than two hours, even for a very casual visit. The Star Pond was originally meant for the ornamental ducks of Jennie Butchart. A frog fountain is at the centre of the pond. From there one can access the Italian garden, one of the most formal in the grounds, which is located in the erstwhile tennis court of the Butcharts. The Rose garden had varieties from mostly North America and Europe, but the gorgeous colours and smells were divine. When I visit such awesome blooms I wish common digital camera technology had incorporate the touch and smell features too. While visuals features can be at least approximated through a photo the experience of smell is completely lost. The Mediterranean and Japanese gardens are other showpieces in the Garden. The boat landing area and the cove are exceptional view points in the setting sun.

When the lights come on the Garden takes on a different feel. Flowers, shrubs and trees turn into highlights. The apt place to complete the Garden experience is the Seed and Gift Store. The many pieces are absolute beauties and there are so many to choose from and the staff helped me let go of my purse, forget loosening their strings! All in all, a most awesome experience and a great tribute to the vision of a very unique human being that graced this planet.

11 June - Clearwater to Whistler - Day 38 of TCE

If yesterday had been the path to Haven, today was a peek at the hallowed sanctuary. The Rockies stood proud and tall draped in glorious hues of green with the rivers and lakes embellishing her with borders of emerald green, blue and brown. The ribboned roads were mere folds between the drape and the borders. Oh, the drive was an experience never to be forgotten. With the summer heat beating down, the mountains, or most of them, had shed their snowy ornaments, letting the melt make their way across her curves. There were small crowns of snow on the Whistler and Blackcomb mountains, popular for skiing during the winter months. The history of Canadian Pacific Railway is inextricably intertwined with that of the Trans Canada Highway. The former opened up most passes for the latter. Sights of massive pythons trains, often with more than 150 wagons, snaking across the glorious landscape of the country are proud and awe inspiring ones for a former railwayman from India.

As I was driving into Whistler I noticed a ‘rainfall’ of pollens. They were everywhere and had settled on sidewalks and water bodies. Later, I found staff engaged in sweeping them off the porch and sidewalks of hotels. One of them told me that this is a problem peculiar to the summer months. Dried seeds of wild dandelion waft into the valley from the mountains and all that they can do is to gather them and put them along with waste for disposal.

I was booked to stay at the centrally located Pinnacle Hotel in Whistler. The properties in Whistler are pricey and therefore, it had taken me a while to identify one that would suit my pocket. When I was checking in to the hotel I was told that a private car park of the hotel would down me by another C$ 22 plus taxes. Having experienced over the past six weeks that public parking is safe I was given direction to one that was just five minutes away from the hotel. Once the bags were deposited in the large and well-appointed room I drove the car to the parking lot. I was taken aback by the large parking lots operated by the city authorities. 15 different lots have been developed to park vehicles of different types. Lot 4 is facility for parking cars, which to my mind could accommodate over 500 cars. All the public parking lots were free parking areas till 14 June, I was told. I got a free slot easily and walked back to the hotel.

The popularity of Whistler can be gauged from the fact that the town has 10,000 rooms, all of them booked out the year around! While skiing, snowboarding, snowshoeing, tobogganing and ski jumping in the Olympic Park (Whistler was a venue of the 2010 Vancouver Winter and Para Olympic Games) other winter activities fill up the season from November to April, mountain biking, kayaking and hiking fill up the rest of the year. Its proximity to Vancouver, which is just over an hour's drive, is a saleable USP.

The hub of Whistler is a pedestrian only village with large number of hotels (including a pod hotel), activity centres, bike and equipment rental shops, cafes, restaurants and grocery shops. The most sought after activity in the village centre seemed to be mountain cycling. Ski lifts took the cyclists and their cycles up to the crest of the Whistler Mountain. A popular ski slope in winter had transformed into a mountain trail for cyclists in summer. It is this transformation that has made Whistler a popular ‘go-to’ destination all the year round. The Peak2Peak gondola is a major tourist attraction in Whistler, which is the first lift to link two side by side mountains of Whistler and Blackcomb. It also held the world record for the longest free span between ropeway towers – 3.03 kilometres - till 2017. The gondola at 1430 feet is still the highest point above ground.

The end is near. With just one more day to go for the successful completion of the second leg of the Trans Canada Expedition, Whistler provided the right setting to introspect and think back on the past six weeks.