Saturday, June 25, 2022

An Oman Holiday - 18 May 2022 – Last day in Oman

The GTC service from Salalah to Muscat reached the Burj Al Sahwa bus station, Muscat well before time. The rush at that important interchange bus terminus was incredibly high. There were so many buses, parcels, taxis, private cars, trolleys and busy people walking about that it was nearly chaotic. For the first time I heard vehicles honking. However, I was convinced that there certainly was no other way to call attention if one wanted to move about in the terminal. The bus I was in did not get a slot to park for nearly a half hour. The large number of parcels it transported had to be unloaded. After that was done it stopped at the Muscat International Airport before travelling to its final destination, Ruwi. I got down in between in Al Azaiba, almost opposite the Mwasalat bus terminal, from where Binu came and picked me up.

After breakfast and bath Deepak Nair came over to be my guide and company for the day. I had sent him the list of places I wished to visit. He chalked out the sequence and added some more on his own. The Al Ameen Mosque, the marble-clad marvel, is located on a hillock off the expressway. Its construction that began in 2008 brought together experts, designers, materials and technologies from India, Iran, Italy, UK and Germany. The mosque was consecrated in 2014 and is an imposing sight.

The Zawawi mosque is notable for the Quran inscribed on metal plates and placed on the walls of the mosque. The mosque was built in 1985 at the behest of Omar Zawawi to commemorate the passing away of his father. Both Al Ameen and Zawawi mosques could be visited only from the outside.

The nest visits were to two hotels. The first one, the Grand Hyatt is a marvel. The architecture is primarily Yemeni in influence. The hotel affords spectacular views of the majestic Hajar mountains on one side and the Arabian Sea on the other. The interiors are ornate and aesthetic. The Intercontinental is a luxury offering from the InterContinental Hotels Group, the other two well known brands under the same umbrella are Crowne Plaza and Holiday Inn. This super luxury hotel is a short walk from the beach.

The Sultan's armed forces museum is far more than just a display of military hardware. The museum is housed in Bayt Al Falaj, built in 1845 as a royal summer home but used mostly as the headquarters of the Sultan’s Armed Forces. The lower rooms outline Oman’s history while the upper rooms explore the country's international relations and military prowess. When I asked at the counter about the entrance fee, which is normally payable by credit card only, I was told that we were in luck because it being the International Museum Day museums the world over were free of charge to visit this day.

We were assigned a military escort to go around the whole complex. The escort provides a commentary and doesn't rush you to complete the tour. He politely tells you the do's and don'ts such as what can be photographed and what should not be. The museum is naturally on the itinerary of most visiting dignitaries. There is a working model of a falaj (irrigation channel) in the grounds outside the museum which is informative.

Muscat vegetable and fish market in Mutrah stands shoulder to shoulder with the Sultan Qaboos Port, which is now closed for cargo business (shifted to Sohor). The new vegetable and fish market is a landmark on the waterfront along the lively corniche in Mutrah and it seamlessly threads the past and the present.

The Mutrah part of Muscat was for long the commercial hub, naturally with the port and its promontory, with a thriving fishing industry. The redevelopment of Mutrah was in keeping with the spirit of preserving the character of the old while serving the needs of burgeoning tourism requirements. The market is neat and clean. At the time of our visit the business was dull as it was close to noon and the fresh catch had vanished already.

Not very far from the fish market is the 200 year old Mutrah Souq, with its Gate overlooking the Sea of Oman and the Corniche. The antiquity of the market and its bustle makes it a must visit. Parking is normally a major hassle here, but we were lucky to get one close to the Gate. As you enter the Souq your senses are teased by a variety of aromatic fragrances of Frankincense, perfumes and essential oils. The market is also known for brilliant craftworks such as silverware, traditional daggers and swords, cloth work, etc. Naturally the popular Omani sweets like halwa, shoes, incense burners, spices and the like are also popular with shoppers. I picked up a few fridge magnets, spices and tea flavours.

The Mutrah Corniche is a promenade that stretches for over 3 kilometres along the waterfront and is lined with restaurants, cafes, and markets. A walk along the lovely promenade will take you along the Oman Port and harbour on one side and beautiful rock formations of the Hajar Mountains on the other. Other attractions are the old Portuguese watchtowers, the Al Riyam Park with lots of games and rides for children and the humongous incense burner monument.

Before winding up the day with a visit to the St Peter and Pauls church I had a couple of interview engagements. The hospitality of Meena and Binu and the facilitation and companionship of Deepak Nair cannot be insulted by mere words. They were only meant to be enjoyed by the heat and soul. Thus, the tight schedule in Oman came to an end and it will remain etched in my chronicles as one of the most memorable visits to a foreign land.


Wednesday, June 22, 2022

An Oman Holiday - 16 May 2022 – Day 3 in Salalah

Hashiem was to be my companion and guide for the second consecutive day in Salalah. He set aside all his engagements and selflessly agreed to conduct me around. It is to such people that I owe the success of my travels. There was no need for them to offer their services or incur the costs attached, personal and economic. I shared with Hashiem the places I wished to visit during the day and he made a mental note of it.

Hashiem said that the best place to start the tour would be the Cheraman Perumal tomb, which is quite close to the Crowne Plaza Resort where I had stayed on the 14th. The drive to the location of the tomb made me gaze in amazement at the extent of coconut, papaya, banana and pepper cultivation in the area. What was seen there is more than what can be seen in Kerala today. Yes, Salalah is a slice of Kerala, but a better slice for the cultivation, plantations and hospitality.

The legend of Cheraman Perumal is that he witnessed the 'splitting of the moon' over the skies in Kodungallur. Arab traders who visited the King told him of a prophet in Mecca who preached tenets of righteousness. Cheraman Perumal divided his kingdom and joined the trade party on a visit to Mecca, met Prophet Mohammad, converted to Islam and completed the Haj. On his way back to Malabar he fell ill in present day Salalah and died. His burial place is now just a large monument of blocks covered with plenty of cloth. Also buried close to him is one of his companions. Apparently, the place is under reconstruction.

The Al Balid Archaeological Park and Museum of the Land of Frankincense, made a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2000, is quite close to the tomb. The ruins of the park belong to an ancient city called Zafar from where the trade of frankincense intensified after the fall of Khor Rori. The city was visited by famed travellers such as Marco Polo and Ibn Batuta. Later in the 16th and 17th centuries the city went into decline due to changing trade patterns and invasions.

The site is well preserved and signposted with important information. It has 27 important locations connected by well laid out pathways and gazebo like relaxation points. The best preserved of the structures is the old place that was supposed to have occupied 5000 square meters. Old boats used for fishing, diving, cargo transportation and ancient stone anchors are also on display in the Park.

Another interesting feature of the park is a large number of frankincense trees, many of them in bloom. This part of Oman is known as the land of frankincense and it is believed, though not historically verified, that one of the wise men who travelled to meet and present Baby Jesus with gifts was from here. The Museum has two interesting sections in Maritime Trade and History. The displays are adequately explained and are aesthetically arranged. Models of famed crafts, artefacts, maritime and historic developments, life and culture of the times are all very well put together in the museum. There is no entrance fee to the heritage sites except for a parking fee for the vehicle.

On the way to the Tomb of Job is a very large park dedicated for children, called the Ittin Park. That is also free. The activities are numerous including cycling and theme rides. They are all free. A short detour from the road to the Tomb of Job is the Ayn Gerziz, which turned out to be quite a revelation. That was not on my itinerary but Hashiem said that I should have a look in there. The beautiful valley of Ayn Garziz is a perfect picnic spot in the Khareef season, Hashiem told me. The freshwater springs and the greenery across the hills would be balm for sore city dwellers. There are many caves to explore there and one can identify many shapes on the stalactite and stalagmite formations. I wish that the government does something to make such places inviting all the year around. It is such a marvelous place to relax like the Wadi Darbat.

Job is a character in the Bible whose devotion to God is tested multiple times with loss of fortune, health and all that he held dear, but was thankful to God for. He comes through all the trials and tribulations holding steadfastly to his faith. Many places in the Middle East lay claim to being the burial place of Job. Dhofar too has a Tomb of Job. The walled complex was locked and disappointment started welling up. However, I noticed a few blocks of stone piled on one side of the low wall. Hashiem and I scaled it without much difficulty and entered the premise. The room where the tomb is laid out was locked, but a window was open through which the 4 metre long tomb draped in green could be seen. We got back to the car scaling the wall yet again.

We drove back to the city after spending a few minutes in the salubrious environ of Jebel Ayub where the temperature was decidedly cooler than the plains. Moreover, the breeze wafted cool air copiously. While visiting Hasik Hashiem had narrated the story of Prophet Saleh and the camel. In the city of Salalah there is a site where the camel that was given to the Talmud was tortured and killed. Twice we went there hoping it would be open and both the times we were disappointed. Prophet Saleh had gifted the Talmud people the divine camel with the instruction that it could be milked as often as they needed but desist from harming the camel. Instead they chose to slay it and, it is said, that the whole clan was laid waste thereafter.

The Nabi Umran Tomb is on the important 23 July street. The mosque within the complex was open only for worship in the morning and we gained entry for sightseeing after 1.30 pm courtesy Imam ul Huq, the keeper of the premise. He unlocked the mausoleum and let me in. Nabi Imran is thought to have been the father of Mother Mary in one of the biblical narratives.

Almost bang opposite the Tomb is the Udupi restaurant capably managed by Jagdish Naik. He has been in Oman since 1988 and bought over the restaurant in 1994. Presently the restaurant is on one of the floors of the building. He lives on one of the floors and lets out a flat on the same floor on short term rental. Another floor is where the staff are accommodated. Jagdish is a successful entrepreneur and he has not let money or his meteoric rise go to his head. While Hashiem had a thali meal I plumped for a plate of poori baji.

The Sultan Qaboos Mosque in Salalah is neither ornate or as large as the one in Muscat but has been welcoming worshippers and visitors since 2009. The manicured gardens and the clean surroundings are a feature here. The main Hall is big with a large carpet running from corner to corner. The large glass chandeliers, motifs and marble works are noteworthy.

If you thought that that was the end of the day, you are mistaken. Hashiem had been telling me that visiting Jebel Samhan during a full moon night is one of the most enjoyable experiences in the Dhofar region. While he told me that we would be having dinner there this night I did not expect to be part of what it finally was. Hashiem and his two co-brothers and their families in four cars with mats to be spread on the ground, grill, kadai, marinated chicken and fish, chicken curry, ghee rice, pita bread, soft drinks, lights, chairs and seats. The cave near the Jebel Samhan viewpoint turned out to the ideal picnic spot, shielded from the wind but exposed to the bright full moon. Two hours went by in conversation and partaking of the most delicious food. We only wished we had reached there a few hours earlier. There were other visitors in the Nature Reserve near the viewpoint. They quietly enjoyed the late evening without being a nuisance to others.

Tuesday, June 14, 2022

An Oman Holiday - 17 May 2022 – Last day in Salalah

Keeping aside all his engagements and personal work Hashiem has been beside me all the time the last two days. This day we left for Khor Rori to explore and understand the significance of the ancient city of Sumhuram, which lay a half hour drive away from Salalah. The weather was a bit more benign.

At the entrance to the World Heritage site we paid 2 OMR as entrance fee for the car and drove straight to the Sumhuram archaeological gallery. We were met by a young member of the staff who explained the difference between Dhofar and Salalah and told us that it would be more appropriate to refer to these places as the Dhofar region. He explained the various important landmarks we could visit in the area like the beach, lagoon and the fortifications. There is also a short video one can watch in the media room to appreciate the significance of the pre Islamic city of Sumhuram.

Sumhuram was an important seaport within a vast network of international trade between 3 century BC and 5 century AD. Throughout its history Sumhuram was linked to the Mediterranean, Gulf, India and its own hinterland. The fortified settlements rose from the lagoon of Khor Rori on the banks of the Indian Ocean. The naturally protected harbour, with limestone mountain outcrops, was close to the best quality frankincense produced. It is said that frankincense used to be stored even in the open near the lagoon with no fear of theft because they believed that it was protected by God. The significant architectural and archaeological ruins of the ancient city speak of the immense wealth of the city. The remains include fortifications, multi storeyed residences, temple, storage rooms for frankincense and private buildings. The views from the fortifications is glorious and a walkthrough of the ruins almost bring to life the everyday chores of the people of the once wealthy city.

If it was such a wealthy city, then what led to its decline and eventual abandonment? The evidence of that can be seen to this date. The lagoon that was a protected haven for sail boats became insulated from the outer sea, the Indian Ocean, due to the formation of sandbars. This prevented sailboats from entering the lagoon for trade. The modern technique of dredging to provide access to sail boats was not known then.

After the informative visit to Khor Rori Hashiem took me to Ayn Razat which is one of the main fresh water sources of Salalah city and is an important source of water for farming using the traditional falaj irrigation system. At the entrance to Ain Razat is a small fenced ornamental garden. There are a variety of flower trees and shrubs in the garden. The major attraction of Ain Razat is its cave, which is accessible via stone staircase. The steps are barricaded on both sides. From the cave one can get amazing views of Ain Razat’s surroundings including the pond, water channel and the garden.

The tomb of Prophet Hud is situated in the Dhofar Mountain north of Salalah. He is an important figure in Islamic history who was vested with the responsibility of preaching to the Aad people to mend their ways and abandon idolatory. Not having paid heed to his preachings the entire city and its people were destroyed by God. The ruins of Ubar may stand testimony to this event. The tomb of Hud is within a building and is 3 meters by 1.5 meters in dimension.

Lunch was at the immensely popular Al Qadri restaurant. The restaurant can seat over 400 people and is bustling with eager customers. Service is quick and we soon had our order of fried rice, chicken 65 and kadai mutton in front of us. The portions were so large that we had to pack up the leftover food. Thus sated, I was ready for the short interview by MediaOne, a popular Malayalam channel. The interviewer Salahuddin has been in the Gulf for over two and half decades.


It was time to leave Salalah for Muscat. Hashiem had booked me a 7 pm bus and fetched me large quantities of halwa, kunafe, frankincense and even the burner. I have no words to describe his hospitality and kinship as also those of Siby, Rajiv and Alex, the souls that are my companions through time and space.

An Oman Holiday - 15 May 2022 – Day 2 in Salalah

Hashiem Muhammad took up an assignment as pastry chef in Amman, Jordan for three years after a course with Food Craft Institute, Kalamassery and a stunt with Hot Breads, Ernakulam. He came to Salalah in 2007 and started employment with Hilton before soon shifting to Crowne Plaza. A knee ailment made him return to Kerala for treatment. Upon return he joined his younger brother in his business as importers and distributors of fruits and vegetables. His wife also runs a business of clothes and female fashion items for which Hashiem goes to India frequently to source material from Gujarat.

Hashiem got in touch with me over Facebook offering a lot of useful suggestions and assistance. He offered his car, a well kept Chevrolet Malibu, to me to drive around in Salalah. I had come to know that it is not legal to drive a private vehicle in Oman with an International Driving Permit. Hence, Hashiem  offered to take me around as per my itinerary. The difference is that with his vast experience in outdoor travel, picnic and sightseeing he knew places so well that he changed the order of the places I wished to visit this day and included some more on his own. He had loaded up his car with food and drink and  had come along with his youngest son and nephew to Crowne Plaza to pick me up. I checked out from the hotel and put my luggage in Hashiem's car.

The first place on the radar was Wadi Darbat. It is scenic spot for nature lovers and those who wish for some idyllic relaxation. Wadi Darbat has picturesque hills surrounding it and a beautiful waterfall. The cascade waterfall has been operational in the wadi since Mekunu cyclone in May 2018. The addition of this waterfall has enhanced the beauty of this valley and now even during the non-Khareef time there is a waterfall to look forward to.

Wadi Darbat is a splendid lush green valley with the surrounding hills having small caves which people can hike up to. I was told that during the Khareef season the Wadi is packed with locals and tourists. Many stalls and restaurants are put up in the valley that sell street food like shawarmas, popcorn and ice cream. A year round canal runs throughout the wadi and that’s what make this valley different from rest of the places in Dhofar. The canal water follows along the wadi from the North side to the South and is often referred to as a lake. Water boats, kayaking and paddle boats are available. A large number of camels populate the area.

On the way to Mirbat Hashiem produced one of the tastiest thirst quenchers I have ever had. The tender coconut shake is made with tender coconut and water, milk, cardamon and cashew with sugar to taste. The cold shake helped weather the blistering heat. Mirbat was once the capital of the Dhofar region, trading in frankincense and Arabian steeds. Visitors to the harbour can spot dhows heading out to fish or coming in with their catch. Refrigerated vans stand ready to cart the fresh catch to far away consumption centres. There is also a vibrant fish market in the harbour. The town’s main fort is now derelict despite being the site of the well-documented Battle of Mirbat. Nine soldiers kept 300 insurgents from taking Mirbat during this battle in 1972, during the Dhofari insurrection.

The Mirbat Castle is a popular tourist attraction for people who visit Oman. The well preserved Mirbat Castle and its ancient complex is distinguishable by Islamic architecture. The staff at the castle brief visitors on the fort’s history and its facilities, as well as distribute a mouth watering portion of Omani halwa and Kahwa coffee.  The permanent exhibition in the castle overlooking the Arabian Sea is informative and enlightening.

The Salalah-Mirbat-Sadh-Hadbeen-Hasik road is considered to be one of the most scenic in Oman. The total distance via the route we had taken was 215 kms with some of the most gorgeous mountain views in all of Oman and equally incredible seaside views along the coastal road. Hashiem stopped at multiple locations for photography and to enjoy the salubrious and soothing scenery. The odd shaped cliffs with water pouring out of some, jutting caves on the side of the road, sheer drops and karst like formations keep you rivetted all the way through.

On the way we dropped by at the tomb of Saleh/Shela. The biblical and Quranic references differ. In the former Shelah is the third son of Judah who refused to perform levirate marriage with his brothers' wife. In the Qur'an he is referred to as a prophet who was sent to the Thamud people who lived in rock caves. Called upon to prove that he is a prophet Saleh brought out a Camel and it's calf from the mountains and presented to the Thamud people with the explicit instruction not to harm it. The tomb houses a very long grave, some narrative mentioning the huge size that Saleh was and some others mentioning the tomb as those of himself and his kin.

After lunch at a most amazingly scenic point underneath a karst mountain cliff with water dripping from an unknown source we reluctantly started our journey back to Salalah. On the way back we had plans for a few more detours. The first was to experience the anti gravity point.

On the way to the Tawi Attair Sinkhole one suddenly comes upon a sign which says Location of Gravity. This sign clearly implies that the location is not an anti gravity point but is in fact a Gravity Hill. The definition of Gravity Hill, as per Wikipedia, Answer to this question is that Salalah Anti gravity point is in fact not anti-gravity point, but is a Gravity Hill. As per Wikipedia, the definition of Gravity Hill is “a place where the layout of the surrounding land produces an optical illusion, making a slight downhill slope appear to be an uphill slope.” The car moved even without ignition and, optical illusion or otherwise, the experience was unique.

The Tawi Attair Sinkhole is mentioned as one of the must see locations in Salalah. Tawi Atair translates to “Well of Birds”. There is supposedly water at the bottom of the sinkhole which serves as a watering hole for migratory birds. The sinkhole is home to many species of birds that are mostly heard and sometimes seen swooping in and out of the sinkhole. The sinkhole visit was a disappointment as the hole per se could not be seen either from the viewing platform or even after trekking a fair distance to a farther side of the huge sinkhole. Bush overgrowth and steep slopes prevent any kind of visual treats of the sinkhole. This sinkhole is one of the biggest in the world spanning 140m by 100m and is over 200 metres deep. I was told that one could go down the sinkhole in the past using a guide but has now been stopped due to reports of accidents following gravitation problems.

The Taqi Cave is under 10 km from the Tawi Attair Sinkhole. Rather than a cave the entire landscape looked like a rift that stretched the surface so wide that the place looked like a huge cradle. Livestock and camels could be seen grazing in the Wadi with definite indications of waterfalls and a sandy stream in the season. The sight was awesome and Hashiem and I trekked a fair distance up a small mountain slope to appreciate the natural wonder.


That wound up the schedule for the day and Hashiem dropped me at the residence of Alex Jacob who had graciously agreed to host me for the rest of the time that I was in Salalah. A shot of limited edition Bunnahabain single malt whiskey and with cashew nuts and dinner of fruits signaled the end of the day. 

An Oman Holiday - 14 May 2022 - Day 1 in Salalah

The bus from Muscat to Salalah, which started at 6 pm yesterday from their Al Azaiba terminal had picked up passengers from three other locations in Muscat. The first stop en route to Salalah was in Nizwa, which I wished would be the dinner halt as I was hungry. Many passengers disembarked there and I too got out of the bus. The driver asked me to get back inside because the dinner stop hadn't yet arrived. The bus went on further for another 45 minutes before stopping for dinner at Adam. The halt was in front of an Indian/Pakistani restaurant. The menu was fairly elaborate and people were mostly ordering biriyani. I had a sparse fare of scrambled eggs and Paratha. Next door to the restaurant was a small grocery store from where I picked up a couple of bars of Snickers. One of them became the dessert. Sleep was not very easy despite the bus being reasonably comfortable with good leg room. Around 1.45 am there was another stop for 20 minutes at a wayside eatery. The bus got to the Salalah Mwasalath bus stand just after 6.30 am.

Siby Eapen, an entrepreneur based in Salalah and a contact from Elvis D'Cruz, came over to pick me up from the bus stand and take me to Crowne Plaza Resort, where I had a days' free accommodation thanks to Deepak Nair. Before going to the hotel I requested Siby to take me to the St. Francis Xavier Church. The Catholic Church is in an enclosed compound that has churches of many other Christian denominations too. That was an interesting sight. The catholic parish is among the four in the Sultanate of Oman. The church was consecrated in 1984 and it now has a catechism centre too. The English mass was nearing its end when I walked into the church for a few minutes of prayer and to seek the blessings of the Almighty on the occasion of my 64th birthday.

The Crowne Plaza Resort is spread over 42 acres of lush green gardens with a white sandy beach lapped by the turquoise waters of the Arabian Sea. I was warmly received by Nyijil at the check-in counter located to one side of the gleaming, ornate lobby with plenty of seating and open space. The Crowne Plaza Resort Salalah is an indulgent retreat offering a variety of facilities and 153 rooms, including 20 villas. The Resort has 3 interconnecting pools, tennis and squash courts and a 9 hole garden golf course. It is conveniently located at less than 30 minutes from the airport and 10 minutes from the Salalah city centre. I rued my tight schedule which would not give me enough time to even make a leisurely tour of the sprawling luxury. After a short rest and quick bath I was ready for the day's schedule.

Siby picked me up from the hotel as appointed and went to a residential complex from where the other two companions for the day were to join us. Rajiv Koshy and Alex Jacob are both orthopedic surgeons from Kerala working with the Oman government. Rajiv, a fitness freak and an avid cyclist, took over the wheels. Having been in Salalah for over 6 years he knew the terrain like the back of his hand. Just as we left the parking lot Rajiv started a detailed description of the geography of the region. For one who could lose his way on a straight road, it was fascinating, to say the least. The day's itinerary had been chalked out. But, the weather had the last laugh. It was dusty and hot. Visibility was so poor that the first port of call, the Salalah Port, turned out to be a damp squib. The port is being operated by APM Terminals since 1998 and it uses the Salalah Port as its hub for the region. From across the terminal, the fishing harbour, we couldn't even see the cranes of the container terminal!

However, the next destination for the day was not so disappointing, even though the dust and wind were overpowering at times. Al Mughsayl is just about 30 km from the port and is a long stretch of blue water sea and white sand. The landscape is elegant and picture perfect. It is considered to be one of the best beaches in the Dhofar region. Marneef Cave and Blowholes are located next to Mughsayl Beach. However, after the Mekunu Cyclone in 2018, the direct road that connected Marneef with Mughsayl was destroyed. The remains of this overhead bridge can still be seen at the exit of detour that you have to take in order to reach to Marneef.

The Marneef Cave and Blowholes are located just besides Mughsayl beach and is a must visit on a tour of the area. There are benches underneath the Cave for people to rest their weary bones and take a break from the sun. The blowholes are a few meters away from the Cave. There are stairs and ramps for people to get to the grating protected blowholes. The three blowholes have meshes over them.  When the sea is slightly rough, sea water explodes into the air through these holes in the rock, which are just above the sea. The water jet from the blowholes vary according to the season, but it is said to reach as high as 28 meters into the sky in the Khareef season. There are even gazebo type structures from where one can enjoy the beautiful sight of sea water shooting up from the blowholes. At times the roar of the sea through the blowholes can be disconcerting. The most majestic views of the Marneef Cave is as you walk back to the car park from the blowholes.

The drive to the Shaat view point was fascinating. The terrain changed, the shrubs and trees changed, the colour green was more visible. The 10 km stretch of an engineering marvel, the Furious Road, is a challenge that was accomplished by a British construction company. On a normal day from the Shaat viewpoint it is said that the meeting point of the Arabian Sea and the Indian Ocean can be seen from a height of over 1000 meters. Despite the poor visibility the waters looked frozen from the viewpoint. One can also walk a bit on a ledge from where sheer cliff faces and dizzying drops can be appreciated; certainly not one for the faint hearted.

Route 47 goes right through to the Yemen border. There are three military checkpoints closer to the border, where polite sentries checked personal documents and the car registration card. The road, as was to be expected, was superb. The Sharfayt border is receiving a major makeover with construction going on at a fast pace. Siby, who used to travel often to Yemen before the pandemic, mentioned that contrary to general belief the region neighbouring the Oman border is quite peaceful.

Before going for lunch to the restaurant of Ali, a friend of Rajiv, we went to a portion of the beach in Dhalkut were the remnants of a crashed helicopter has been lying for years. Over the years the Mi-8 seemed to have been stripped and is now unrecognizable as a helicopter. We were the only ones on the beach there, with no one else in sight. Naturally, the searing heat must have been keeping everyone else indoors.


Lunch consisted of Afghan rice, biriyani multi colored rice, beef curry and shaari fish fry. The long drive back home was broken by a short break for coffee.



Siby and wife hosted a dinner at their lovely home which was attended by Rajiv Koshy and his family, Alex Jacob, Anoop Joseph, the Sales head of Crowne Plaza, and his wife. Excellent drinks, Turkish food, lovely cheesecake and lively conversation kept us for nearly three hours.

22 December 2023 – A Year-end Vacation - A Decision To Make

The year end is a time when most corporate businesses find empty office cabins and seats. The Yuletide Season is when leaves that are due to...