In the Land Of The Rising Sun - Tokyo - 27 April 2026

It was raining quite a bit when I came down for a cup of coffee and wondered if I would be able to even go out for the day because the forecast for the day wasn't too great either. People were up and about early with the start of the working week. The transparent umbrellas were everywhere. These ensure that the sight is never obstructed. By the time I came down after a bath the rain had become heavier. Not one to give up easily, I borrowed the ubiquitous transparent umbrellas from the hostel and set out for the Tokyo Metropolitan Government (TMG) building.

The TMG towers and the surrounding buildings contain offices and the assembly hall of the metropolitan government of Tokyo. It is a favourite haunt of visitors for its free observation decks which provide good panoramic views of Tokyo and beyond. The 243-meter-tall building has two towers, and each houses an observatory at a height of 202 meters. Each observatory has a cafe and a souvenir shop. It had been the tallest building in Tokyo until it was overtaken by the Midtown Tower in 2007.

I was subjected to a baggage check before entering the elevator to the 45th floor. With the rain and wind, I did not expect any great views, which are said to include famous landmarks such as Mount Fuji, the Tokyo Skytree, Tokyo Tower, Meiji Shrine and the Tokyo Dome. The spacious 360-degree observation deck is set out to wow visitors. At the centre of the deck is a souvenir shop serviced by staff. Polite hosts and hostesses are there to direct the visitor into and out of the lifts. A decorated Omoide Piano is another attraction of the deck. It had been graciously donated by a citizen and visitors are encouraged to try their hand with the piano.

I was among the first to be there, as the deck opens at 9.30 am. It was hazy and still raining, preventing any serious views even of the buildings in close vicinity. However, in about a half hour the weather cleared substantially, and I was able to pick out the major city landmarks signposted in the deck. Of course, views of Mt Fuji and such like were too far-fetched to expect on such a day. Even Tokyo Skytree, the tallest building in Tokyo at 634 meters, was hidden from sight. The Skytree building is the third tallest tower in the world after the Merdeka 118 in Kuala Lumpur and Burj Khalifa in Dubai.

As I was straining to make out the various landmarks an English volunteer guide happened along. While making conversation with her she told me that the Tokyo Tower is hidden behind a newer tower that had come up lately. She pointed out a few other landmarks such as the Dome and a Museum near the Meiji Shrine. Thank heavens for the let up in the weather, for I did enjoy the time I spent in the observation deck.

After spending a while in the tourism promotion and souvenir shop on the second floor of the TMG I took the metro and walked to the base of the Tokyo Tower. Inspired by the Eiffel Tower, the Tokyo Tower had been the tallest tower in Japan till the Skytree building was constructed. The tower is painted white and international orange to comply with air safety regulations. It has an observation deck and many other attractions. There are many food and drink options at the ground level. I picked up and assorted sandwich from Lawson and enjoyed a few moments of rest and reflection.

Due to the unpredictable weather I decided to forgo the planned visits to Ginza, Rainbow bridge and Odaiba for the Statue of Liberty. Instead, I went to Akihabara and spend almost two hours there picking up some stuff for kids and friends. The place is so full of electronics, food and anime that it has to be seen to be believed. People were everywhere with hardly a senior in sight. My age stared me in the face. Besides, I am so out of touch with these new age 'heroes' and stories that it all looked weird and crazy to me. But the electric energy is unmatched.

For a sushi experience I walked into a standing sushi restaurant in Arte 1 building. Almost the entire first floor was full of eating joints. It took me some time to decide if I wanted to have Udon noodles or sushi. The standing sushi restaurant had just 10 places, each marked with a place number and a touchscreen with the menu, using which one can place the order.

I took a set of three Sushis with wasabi. Two flat leaves were placed before me with thinly sliced Japanese ginger. Soon the three pieces of sushi were placed on the leaf. I poured a few drops of soy sauce into a small saucer kept at the table for the purpose. I asked the hostess for a spoon, not wanting to make a fool of myself with the chopsticks. I took one of the pieces, dipped in the soy sauce and enjoyed the heavenly taste, wasaba included. Then I chewed on a couple of pieces of ginger. That elevated the taste further. An amazing experience, I must admit.

From a KitKat store I picked up Matcha and Strawberry KitKat, which can only be found in Japan. One of the stores had used Apple devices and Windows products at jaw dropping prices. Did see many Indians in the store. Another store that was filled with tourists is Matsumoto Kiyoshi, the popular cosmetics store. It is displayed prominently in most stores that visitors can avail tax free purchase if the purchase exceeds 5500 JPY. The customer is advised not to use such products before leaving Japan.

The weather turned when I was in Akihabara. I decided to walk back to the hostel in the light rain. By the time I got back my feet were in bad shape. Blisters had formed and burst. The hostel reception gave me some antiseptic and bandage to keep the wound protected. I used the coin laundry to get the used clothes washed and dried. A few large pegs of Shochu put me in the right frame of mind to turn in for the night.

In the Land Of The Rising Sun - Tokyo - 26 April 2026

I had booked a day tour to Hakone with GetYourGuide online in India. They regularly kept in touch and as the day neared for the excursion, the tour guide contacted me via WhatsApp and gave clear directions on where to meet and the do's and don'ts. I left early from the hostel, after grabbing a couple of sandwiches from a convenience store - a SOP by now - wanting to keep the 7.45 am deadline to meet near Tokyo station.

Even though I reached the station in time, I was unable to find the meeting place immediately. The GPS also played truant. Anyway, after a short run around i reached the appointed place. Many tour operators were already aggregating their guests at the place, each guide holding a different flag. I reported to Jack, the tour guide, who allotted me a seat number and directed me to the bus. By 8 am the bus was full, except for maybe a couple of seats, one of them was beside me. I dropped my backpack in that.

Sitting in the vehicle I observed that one doesn't come across any unwashed or beaten-up vehicles. Most of them shimmer in the sun and the drivers are quite careful on the roads too. Lane driving is key and speed limits are maintained. Zebra crossings are sacrosanct.

In a short while we were off, more than 25 people. Jack started with his opening remarks on the do's and don'ts and warned the guests that it would be better if they stuck to time and followed his instructions at the sites clearly. He detailed the day's itinerary and the main objective, which was to get a good sighting of Mt. Fuji, the tallest mountain in Japan at 3776 meters.

Nevertheless, he also mentioned that Mt. Fuji is also known as shy mountain because it is mostly covered in clouds and blanketed by mist. It's visible only for 20 to 30 percent of the year. He hoped that we would be part of that exclusive 'club'. Jack and the driver belonged to a company called Gogoday Travels, whose services were aggregated by GetYourGuide.

Along the route to Hakone shrine, Jack explained the difference between a temple and a shrine. A temple is where a Buddha would be the chief deity, where as a shrine would have Shinto God in them. The distinction upfront is the religion, one is imported from Asia, while Shintoism is home bred. Shrines are marked by a torii gate and komainu dog statues, while temples often have a sanmon gate, pagodas, and cemeteries.

Jack gave a brief glimpse into the history of how capitals changed from Nara to Kyoto and later to Tokyo. Interestingly, he told us that Nara is linked to the famous farewell word 'sayonara'. Apparently, this is what the King who shifted the capital to Kyoto mentioned as he rode out of Nara, Sayo Nara, which was meant to be a short farewell, which later turned out to be an Adieu. Therefore, he said the term must be used with care, especially if you hope to meet the person again sometime. Jack said that the primary foods of Japan tourists must experience are Sushi, Ramen, wagyu and Odon noodles. He said that could give recommendations of restaurants that would not break the wallet!

Going back to the itinerary he said Hakone shrine, the lucky tree and the floating torii are first on the list, followed by a tour of the Ashi lake in a pirate ship (for those who would pay specially for that experience), the Hakone cable car, the Owakudani active volcano with its hot springs and black eggs. It is said that each blag egg can add 7 years to your life. However, it changes colour after two days as the sulphur wears off!

There would be a short break for lunch thereafter, people ordered in advance for that with the guide. I chose to depend on my sandwiches. After lunch would be the Mt. Fuji north side view from Oshinohakkai. The Mt Fuji water is so fresh that it is called the long life water. He said that people in Oshinohakkai and Oshino village people have the highest longevity, possibly due to the pure water and air. One can also experience Mt Fuji ice cream. The Mt Fuji coca cola is white and the sakura cola is pink. The final stop would be at the Yamanaka lake, which is also called the swan lake due to a large number of swans there.

During the lunch break in Oshino I walked to the Lawson store and came across a couple of sakura trees, waiting as if to show off its bright blossom. I also used the time to experience the use of a vending machine for a peach nectar fruit drink. F om the Lawson store I also picked up a bottle of shochu. The Daiyame is a critically acclaimed authentic Japanese sweet potato shochu produced by Hamada Syuzou in Kagoshima, renowned for its distinct, intense aroma of fresh lychee. It is "aroma rich" with 25% ABV and is best enjoyed with strong soda.

The tour happened exactly as described by Jack. Being a weekend tourists were everywhere. At the Hakone shrine I could not get anywhere near the floating torii as it was swamped by tourists who took forever to get the right pose, the right pout and individual and group photos. Since ancient times, the shrine's deity is believed to be a god of luck and good fortune. People pray for good luck and removal of bad luck removal, fulfilment of one's desire (protection of victory), and traffic safety.

The Ashi Lake is a crater lake situated along the wall of the caldera of Mount Hakone, a complex volcano that last erupted in 1170 CE at Owakudani. The lake is known for its views of Mount Fuji, its numerous hot springs, historic sites, and traditional ryokan.

The boat ride on the 'pirate ship' offered lovely views of the scenery along the caldera. Multiple tour groups were on the same ship and there is an exclusive enclosure for first class tourists at the bow of the boat. Couples could be seen trying to capture the Titanic magic. The boat ride lasted about half hour and then we took the cable car to Owakudani.

Each gondola could accommodate about 12 passengers. The ride is about a half hour. One can get panoramic views of the lake, the sulphur springs as well as Mt Fuji views. At Owakudani one can get a feel of the numerous hot springs from where plenty of gas could be seen spiralling up. Landslides are common in this area due to the fragile rock. However, the government has put in place many measures to mitigate and minimise the impacts. The big attraction here is the souvenir shop which sells the black eggs, Japanese curry, souvenirs and a whole lot of other stuff to take back with you.

The Oshinohakkai visit was really interesting. Oshino Hakkai literally means “eight seas of Oshino” and refers to the eight freshwater ponds formed by the meltwater of Mount Fuji. The ponds are renowned for their stunning clarity and tranquil beauty, each offering a mirror-like reflection of the surrounding landscapes. One can see the bottom of an 8-meter pond and that how clear the water is.  There are founts from where we can drink the pure water and full up your water bottles. The views of the Mt Fuji were awesome.

In fact, even from the Yamamoto lake we had super views of the mountain. Thus, it was a lucky day for the tour group with such bright and lovely weather. The drive back to Tokyo took nearly two and half hours, thanks to the Sunday evening traffic.

Even though the return trip to Tokyo took longer due to the weekend traffic it was, indeed, a thoroughly enjoyable day, more so because it was so well organised and the guide kept supplying the group with interesting titbits of history, culture and culinary advice. All along the return trip my mind was looking forward to a decent swig of the shochu. I must admit that its lychee punch made it taste like a cocktail, an enjoyable one. 

In the Land Of The Rising Sun - Tokyo - 25 April 2026

The day was packed with plenty of activities and visits to parks, gardens, shrines, streets, etc., which meant a lot of walking too. The first visit of the day was to the Ueno Park. The large public park grounds, next to the Ueno metro station, were originally part of Kaneiji Temple, which used to be one of the city's largest and wealthiest temples and a family temple of the ruling Tokugawa clan during the Edo Period.

The Ueno Park is famous for the many museums found on its grounds, especially the Tokyo National Museum, the National Museum for Western Art, the Tokyo Metropolitan Art Museum and the National Science Museum. It is also home to Ueno Zoo, Japan's first zoological garden. Most importantly, the Park is also reputed to have one of the best cherry blossom viewings in the country. Unfortunately, I am a couple of weeks late for the majestic sight.

The Shinjuku station is one to be experienced. The station features over 200 exits, 36 platforms, and connects five major railway operators. It is said to confuse even the most seasoned rail users. The station handles between 2.7 to 3.5 million passengers every day, a Guinness World Record. As compared to this, Churchgate Mumbai handles over 1 million passengers every day and CSMT Mumbai handles over 2 million passengers per day. It is an absolutely fabulous experience to be amidst such a sea of humanity. From a ticket counter in Shinjuku, I booked my Shinkansen ride to Kyoto a few days later.

On the way to the next destination, namely the Shinjuku Gyeon National Park I picked up a Salmon Onigiri and an Egg Sandwich from a 7 Eleven outlet for breakfast, besides Octopus Balls and Pork Bread Croquette for a snack later on. The instructions on how to open the packaging are also clearly given on the packaging. Amazing how organised this country is. I didn't very much like the Salmon Onigiri. It's grilled salmon flakes stuffed in sticky rice covered with dried, pressed sheets of red algae.

The present Shinjuku Gyeon National Park originated during the Edo Period, between 1603 and 1868, as a feudal lord's Tokyo residence. It is one of Tokyo's largest and most popular parks. Later it was converted into a botanical garden before being transferred to the Imperial Family in 1903. The park was almost completely destroyed during World War II but was eventually rebuilt and reopened in 1949 as a public park. This is another of Tokyo's favourite cherry blossom viewing locations. Again, I missed it.

The traditional Japanese landscape garden in the park features large ponds dotted with islands and bridges. The Taiwan Pavilion was built on the occasion of the wedding of the Showa Emperor. The park's other main gardens include a symmetrically arranged, formal French garden, and an English-style landscape garden with wide, open lawns surrounded by flowering cherry trees. There is also a beautiful greenhouse with many tropical and subtropical flowers.

Before leaving the park, I walked into one of the cafes and feasted on the superbly crafted egg sandwich. The Shibuya Crossing in Tokyo is the world's busiest crosswalk in the world's busiest city. Up to 2,500 people cross at once, from all directions, every 2–3 minutes. Over 500,000 pedestrians pass through here daily. It is an amazing experience and the enthusiasm of the people doing the crossing is to be experienced. I did see annoyance on the face of some elderly locals.

The Shibuya crossing and Hachiko statue are virtually synonymous. It is a tribute to Man's loyal friend, a dog that waited before the Shibuya station every day for 9 years and nine months from 1925, unaware that its master had passed away!

From the Shibuya crossing I intended to take a bus to the Meiji Jingu shrine. Google Maps is spot on when it comes to options to take the public transport to various attractions in Japan. So was it this time too. However, at the bus stop, I asked a lady if I was at the right stop for the intended destination. Very politely she told me to cross the road and the take the bus from the stop there. Friendly and smiling, she was.

The Meiji Jingu shrine was established in 1920, to commemorate the virtue of Emperor Meiji and Empress Shoken who took the initiative to make a foundation of modernized Japan. The 145 acres of land has forest, gardens, massive torii gates, museum and the main shrine itself. Almost in the heart of the city, the serene and traditional Japanese scene unfolds a huge expanse of greenery. The barrels of wine casks and barrels of sake wrapped in straw in the way to shrine catches every visitor's eye. Truly, very interesting!

Close to the Meiji Jingu shrine is the Yoyogi Park. Before becoming a city park in 1967, the area served as the site of the Olympic Village for the 1964 Tokyo Olympics, and before that, as a residential area for US military personnel. Near there I had the most incredible sweet potato from a street vendor, so soft and sweet.

A short walk away is the Harajuku Village, which has become a suburb synonymous with Japan's youth-driven street-fashion scene. Teens flock from all over Japan to check the latest trends, street food and pop culture.

I took the metro and walked a bit to reach the Edo Castle, which used to be the seat of the Tokugawa shogun who ruled Japan between 1603 until 1867. In 1868, the shogunate was overthrown, and the country's capital and imperial residence were moved from Kyoto to Tokyo. The current Imperial Palace is located on the site of former Edo Castle, a large park area surrounded by moats and massive stone walls in the centre of Tokyo.

It is the residence of Japan's Imperial Family. The inner grounds are only open to public on two days of the year, when the royalty family gives audience to visitors. Exhausted by the long walk throughout the day, I located a small bench to rest for a while and feast on the Octopus Balls I had been carrying the whole day. The Pork Bread Croquette soon followed the Octopus Balls.

I wound up the hyperactive day by making a short tour of the famous kitchenware district, Kappabashi street. It is an 800-meter stretch of over 150 specialized shops selling professional-grade Japanese knives, ceramics, cookware, and realistic plastic food samples.

I willed myself, rather than walked, back to the hostel by late evening. A Suntory highball and a couple of Family Mart sandwiches were the highlights before winding down after sundown. 

Ahmedabad to the Land Of The Rising Sun, Japan - 24 April 2026

It is summertime again, a time to vacation. This time, the 68th country, would be Japan. There are over 14,000 islands in the Japanese archipelago. But the four main islands of Japan, running from north to south, Hokkaido, Honshu, Shikoku, and Kyushu, house the majority of its population.

The currency of Japan is the Yen and is the third most traded currency, after the USD and Euro. The notes are denominated in 1000, 2000, 5000 and 10,000 yen. The coins are available as 1, 5, 10, 50, 100 and 500 yen. Coins are widely used and people carry specially made coin boxes with separate pockets for various denominations.

Japan is called the "Land of the Rising Sun" because of its geographical location east of China, making it appear as the place where the sun rises, causing it to be one of the first countries to see the sunrise. The Japanese name for the country, "Nihon" or "Nippon," translates directly to "origin of the sun". This nickname and Hiroshima and Nagasaki, unfortunately, were the first pieces about Japan that I picked up in primary school. However, the urge to travel to Japan was stimulated by the exemplary behaviour of the Japanese fans after their World Cup matches. Discipline, hard work, pride in the culture and ethics of the nation and being ambassadors of their country.

I made a 9 day tour program of Japan with visits to Tokyo, Kyoto, Osaka and Hiroshima. The visa, as usual, was obtained through Network Tours and Travels. Rajiv Shah, its proprietor, helped me obtain the visa in about a week. He also booked VietJet flights to Tokyo and back from Hiroshima through Hanoi. He also got me an Overseas Medical Insurance. There was a time when the OMI was examined at the time of check-in. Now, no one seems to be bothered about it.

When I checked in the baggage in Ahmedabad international airport the girl at the counter wondered how one could travel with a total of just 10 kgs between the check-in and cabin baggage. I was deliberately travelling light with the intention of reusing clothes. All the accommodation I had booked has washing machine and dryer. Once the check-in formalities were done, I asked if the flight would be in time. With a bored look and a mechanical attitude, she confirmed a right time departure for the VietJet flights from Ahmedabad to Hanoi.

Later a 40-minute delay was announced, the flight taxied out at least 50 minutes late. This, I anticipated, could cut into the changeover time I would have in Hanoi. The flight that should have landed at 5.55 am local time finally 'freed' the passengers at 7 am. Boarding for Tokyo had begun at 7.05 am. I didn't have the patience to snake along with the forbidding numbers for the security check. Instead, I dodged the queue taking the excuse of a boarding flight. I must say that I didn't either see a frown or opprobrium among other guests. The sea of humanity parted and soon I found myself at the head of the queue for security check.

I barely got 10 minutes to use the Men's room and freshen up a bit. Boarding was going on smoothly. Flight took off in time from Hanoi, and I settled in the seat for the 5 plus hours to Tokyo. On the first and second legs of the flights I was served a 'Vegetarian Hindu Meal' with a 20-gm packet of freeze-dried cashews, a bottle of water and a serviette. I tried my best to catch up on lost sleep. But the arthritic neck and shoulder joints made the rest fitful.

At the Narita airport the walk to immigration was fairly long, but the wait at the counter was nominal, as I had already downloaded the QR Code for Immigration and Customs clearance. I had entered the 68th country. I did not even glance around the duty free. My mind was on retrieving the checked in bag, obtaining a Suica card and taking the train to the accommodation.

I sought the help of a warden at the airport to obtain a free Suica card from a kiosk and load it. Another one helped me to reach the right metro station platform. They were all so helpful and gave me the first taste of the hospitality in the country. After a long 80-minute ride I reached the Asakusabashi station. The A16 Hostel is barely 6 minutes’ walk from the station. It is indeed a challenge staying in such an accommodation (a bunk bed) after a certain age - generation gap is unavoidable. However, the property is neat and clean and extremely well maintained.

Later I took the short walk from the hostel to the Sumida waterfront. The Sumida River is a 27-kilometer waterway in central Tokyo that flows from the Arakawa River to Tokyo Bay, passing through seven wards including Sumida, Taito, and Chuo. As a vital historic river, it is famous for its 37 unique bridges, annual summer fireworks, cherry blossom viewing, and scenic water bus cruises.

The Cultural Significance of the river features prominently in Japanese arts, including Ukiyo-e paintings by Hokusai and Hiroshige, and is a premier location for the annual Tokyo Summer Fireworks Display. Popular tourist cruises and water taxis operate between Asakusa, Odaiba, and other points. Sumida Park, renowned for its cherry blossoms, is located on both banks. The Sumida River Walk is a popular pedestrian bridge along the Tobu Skytree Line allows for walking from Asakusa to Tokyo Skytree.

After a refreshing 2 km amble along the Sumida River walkway, admiring the various bridges, that came alive with lights after 6.30 pm, the various river tour boats, offering sights and meal courses, the striking Tokyo Skytree often changing colours, I reached the central part of Asakusa. From there I set sights for the Senso-ji Temple, which is famous as Tokyo's oldest and most iconic Buddhist temple, founded in 645 AD, and for being the heart of traditional culture in the Asakusa district.

It is best known for its massive red Kaminarimon Gate (guarded by the Thunder and Wind deities), the first of the gates to the Senso-ji. One of the showpieces there is the 3.9-meter-tall red lantern. From there I walked along the street studded by shops, that were already closed, which ended up at the Hozomon Gate. The massive wooden figures at the gate carved out of a single piece of cypress trees is indeed stupefying.

Past that on the left-hand side is the five-tiered pagoda, a 53.32-meter tall, vermilion-lacquered, steel-framed reconstruction built in 1973. Originally established in 942 A.D., this iconic landmark was rebuilt after the 1945 Tokyo air raids and houses Buddha’s ashes on its top floor and thousands of memorial tablets on the ground floor. The main hall as well as the pagoda and fortune telling stalls were closed for worship. However, the night atmosphere is at a different level. The massive grounds of the Sensoji hosts the major Sanja Matsuri festival.

To the side of the Sensoji is the Asakusa shrine. Also known as Sanja-sama (Shrine of the Three gods), it is one of the most famous Shinto shrines in the city. The shrine honours the three men who founded the neighbouring Sensoji. One of the only two buildings in the area to survive World War II bombings, it is designated an Important Cultural Property due to its long history.

From the Sensoji grounds I retraced my steps to the Nakamise street, to look for some food. The Nakamise Shopping Street is a 250-meter approach to the temple lined with over 100 stalls selling traditional snacks, souvenirs, kimonos, and crafts, dating back centuries. The main shops close between 5 and 7 pm, but the eateries are mostly open, as well as Konbinis, the convenience stores. I went to a 7 Eleven store and looked around for something to eat. There were plenty of options to drink and eat. I picked up a scotch highball, a crispy fried chicken, a curry bread, a tiramisu pudding and a packet of vanilla ice-cream puffs.

In the store I got schooled about the billing queues and how to handle money at the time of payment. In Japan, it is considered inappropriate to walk and eat. So, I stood at the store corner and polished off the curry bread and crispy fried chicken. On the opposite side of the street was a shop selling Taiyaki, which is a popular Japanese fish-shaped cake, traditionally filled with sweet red bean paste and baked in a mould until the batter is crispy on the outside and soft inside.

Originating over 100 years ago in Tokyo, this staple street food now features modern fillings like custard, chocolate, and cheese, often found at festivals or specialized shops. Unable to resist, I chose one with creamy peanut filling, which was heavenly. After that, to burn the ingested calories I walked back along the Sumida River and got back to the hostel. It had been a long day and the time came to rest.