96 hours in Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia – 27 May 2026

The booked cab arrived before 5 am and I was ready to leave for the airport. At that hour the roads were free, and I arrived in the airport within an hour. Before leaving for the airport, I had a message from the airline that the flight would be leaving an hour late at 9.35 am.

The check-in was quick, but the security check took time. It was baffling that despite the large number of passengers snaking in queues only half the number of scanners were being used. Once the security was done the immigration formalities didn't take much time. I used the left-over time to pick up some chocolates and biscuits. Later I had a falafel platter for breakfast.

On board the Korean Air flight the service was excellent. I slept for most part of the three and half hour flight. In between I had a meal of stewed chicken with steamed potatoes in sauce. The tomato juice was out of the world. Shortly after noon, local time, we touched down in Ulaanbaatar, the 70th country of my visit.

Two flights had landed almost simultaneously, and the passengers queues up for immigration. The number of officers available to clear the passengers were inadequate and it took more than an hour to complete immigration. Despite that delay the baggage had not yet arrived on the carousel.

I had booked an airport transfer in advance from India and was in constant communication with My Mongolia Airport Transfers. As I exited the arrival gate the driver was there with a placard with my name on it. I left the airport at a quarter past 1 pm. The infrastructure from the airport till we neared Ulaanbaatar was top class with grid separated six lane highway.

On the way I could see almost a new city being raised with high rise commercial and residential buildings in various stages of development. The capital city was expanding its frontiers to take care of modern requirements, it seemed. As the capital city approached the traffic started crawling and I finally reached the accommodation after 3.30 pm. The last stretch of 15 km took nearly 90 minutes and driving discipline had gone out of the window.

At the accommodation, Anu, the girl in charge of the company that rented the apartment, was waiting to familiarise me with the facility. The apartment was on the fourth floor of a relatively old building with no elevator. It was indeed a herculean task to take the luggage up to the apartment. I was surprised to see how well the apartment was maintained and the facilities it contained. After the experience in Seoul, this was a couple of eras removed.

After settling the luggage into the apartment I took a walk to the Naiman Sharga road where Anu had told me I would be able to change currency. The going rate was 3588 MNT to a USD. I wasn't asked for my passport. The local currency in denominations of 20,000, 10,000, 1,000, 500, 100 and 50 was counted and handed over to me. I had a huge bundle of notes making a visible bump in my pocket.

I started the sightseeing I had listed for the afternoon from the Peace Avenue, which was just a hundred meters from my centrally located apartment. The Peace Avenue is one of Ulaanbaatar’s most prominent and significant thoroughfares, stretching across the heart of Mongolia’s capital. As a major street, it serves as a central artery connecting various important areas of the city and is lined with a mix of modern buildings, shops, and government institutions. Peace Avenue plays a crucial role in Ulaanbaatar's urban landscape, reflecting the city’s growth and modernization while also serving as a hub of activity and commerce.

The avenue has wide six landed roads and well-maintained sidewalks, which accommodate the heavy pedestrian and vehicular traffic typical of the bustling capital city. Peace Avenue also has a variety of retail establishments, restaurants, and cafes, offering a vibrant shopping and dining experience. It is a popular destination for residents and tourists alike, providing a glimpse into the dynamic urban life of Ulaanbaatar.

The Sukhbataar Square is the central square of Ulaanbaatar, named after the Mongolian revolutionary hero Damdin Sukhbaatar after his death in 1923. The square features a massive equestrian statue of the hero in its center. In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, the grounds of the present-day government palace and public square were largely occupied by a temple-monastery-palace complex, which acted as the official residence of Mongolia's spiritual leader.

The temple-complex was razed following the Mongolian People's Revolution of 1921. In the present day, the square is used for major state ceremonies, cultural events, concerts, and exhibitions. One such event had just concluded when I was at the square with young girls being presented medals and honours. Visiting heads of state generally pay respects in front of the statue of Sukhbaatar and Genghis Khan.

The modern Government Palace, rebuilt and renovated in the past decade, is located to the north of the square, has a large colonnaded monument containing statues of Genghis Khan in the centre, with Ogedei Khan and Kublai Khan to his left and right. The central statue of Genghis Khan is flanked by Bo'orchu and Muqali. Briefly, the name of the square had been changed to Chinggis Square in 2013, but the original name was restored in 2016.

A short walk away is the imposing modern Chinggis Khaan National Museum that was established in 2019 - 2022 on the Mongolian Plateau where the great Khaan was born. I decided to explore that magnificent museum a couple of days later along with the Nation Museum of Mongolia, which was in the vicinity of this complex.

The Peace Tower in Ulaanbaatar is a significant landmark in Ulaanbaatar that offers panoramic views of the city. It stands as a symbol of peace and friendship, with its unique architecture and historical significance drawing visitors from around the world. The tower's observation deck provides stunning vistas of the surrounding areas.

There are plenty of dining options in Ulaanbaatar for the hungry belly be it food trucks, cafes, convenience stores or restaurants. I had a huge portion of fries and sausages at a food truck. Mixed with a couple of sauces it tasted so yummy. Later I walked into the Art cafe, close to my apartment, for a cappuccino. I was served the coffee with a dash of Aparajita.

One of the things, unlike Seoul or even Tokyo, it is not difficult to find places or buildings because almost everywhere directions and signages are in English. However, communication with locals in English is cumbersome with most of them just saying 'No'!