Observations from the Land of the Rising Sun, Japan

1. Cities like Tokyo are crowded. But driving in lanes and as per set rules and as mandated is a given. Indiscriminate cutting of lanes, tailgating and such like are not seen. Disciplined driving avoids honking and aggression.

2. Through the nine days of travel in Japan, I did not come across a single dented or unclean commercial or private vehicle. Keeping things clean is an article of faith with the Japanese.

3. Japan is obsessed with queues. You will find them not only queuing up for public transport but also for entry into retail stores, cafes, restaurants, Konbinis and ticket counters. This ensures complete order and speed.

4. Japan is globally recognized as the anime capital of the world, with Tokyo serving as its beating heart. Within Tokyo, the Akihabara district is the ultimate epicenter of the culture, functioning as the legendary "Electric Town" and global hub for anime, manga, and otaku entertainment. It is a country obsessed with Anime.

5. In commuter trains and metro transport it is not uncommon to find commuters in deep sleep, sometimes resting their head on the shoulder of the person sitting next to them. This is not frowned upon and I didn't see attempts to wake them up or shove their head away. It was a commuting community that respected the needs of another.

6. I perceived quite a bit of difference between old and new generation Japanese in their daily interaction. Those of the earlier generation are more respectful and polite than the new generation 'kids'. True the world over, but when it comes to Japan, you don't expect such things to change.

7. The awesome network of public transport and connectivity gives a tourist complete flexibility and control over the schedule. Trains, metros, buses and ferries are all seamlessly connected.

8. The accuracy of Google Maps is of incredible assistance to visitors. The complete capability of Google maps to the fore in Japan. I found immense help from Google Maps and the directions were cent percent accurate.

9. The Suica card, which I obtained free from the airport, is a heaven-sent for visitors and locals alike. The ease of topping up, it's wide range of uses and ease of use ties up the card to public transport and convenience stores.

10. The crown jewel of Japan is the Shinkansen. Japanese Railway is the pioneer in high speed rail technology. Shinkansen reaches speeds of up to 320 kph with safety and punctuality as its companions. The first corridor between Tokyo and Osaka was opened in time for the Tokyo Olympics in 1964. It was a dream come true using the Shinkansen services between Tokyo and Kyoto and Osaka and Hiroshima.

11. Safety is non-negotiable in the Japanese scheme of things. It was a common sight to see safety inspectors posted at construction sites to warn the public of possible hazard and also cordon the area with cones and tape. The safety inspectors are togged out in full safety gear and wield a fluorescent baton. In the traditional Japanese manner, they bend at the waist, apologising for the inconveniences caused to the public!

12. Vehicle parking lots are carefully marked with adequate intra vehicular distance. However, care is taken to avoid waste of space. Vehicles are always parked with the nose in front to facilitate easy exit.

13. Even a short visit to Japan makes you 'attached' to Japanese traits, habits and items of daily use. One such is the Japanese toilet. I had heard about the science fiction like toilets. But using them was quite some experience. In the first place, the toilet seats are temperature controlled. Initially the wide array of controls overwhelmed me. There was one to control the temperature of the seat, another to control the strength of the spray, another for direction of the spray, another to clear the nozzle and yet another to operate the drier. Yes, it is a complete washing machine experience in the toilet. To top it all, there is also a control in public toilets where private noises can be masked by playing music! Some flush tanks also double up as wash basin. I miss the Japanese toilet.

14. Density of population in cities like Tokyo, Osaka, etc makes the cost of living space very high. The creative and innovative genius of the Japanese make use of the limited space by developing multitasking living and working spaces.

15. Pollution is not an issue in Japan, at least the towns and cities I visited in the 9 days. The air is clean and tap water can be drunk directly without filtration. Ponds, streams, lakes and Rivers are so clean that one can see right up to the bottom of some of them. Responsible people ensure a sustainable environment.

16. The unofficial national sport of the country is Baseball, while spectator interest in soccer has exploded in the recent past. Basketball is another sport where audience and youth participation has increased considerably in the recent past. Besides, traditional sports like Sumo wrestling and martial arts like Judo, Kendo and Karate are popular too.

17. Japanese skin texture is to be seen to be believed, particularly women. Their cheeks are like reflective glass sheets, on which you can skate. Whether it is their DNA or the magic of beauty treatments, it is hard to tell. Talking about beauty treatments, the most noticeable shops in Japan are those selling beauty products. The industry is so active that most visitors fill their bags with various products to gift and also use for themselves.

18. Japanese are so finicky about punctuality that I felt it was almost of pandemic proportions. They apologise for a delay of even a minute. Announcements are made at train stations. Commuters can even get a printed late arrival slip from train stations so that employees can present it to their organisation. They lay great store in being 'on time' and not even 'in time'.

19. You will walk miles without coming across garbage cans or disposal bins. Yet the streets are clean, nothing strewn around. In Japan, people carry trash with them for as long as they find an appropriate disposal point. Most convenience stores have them. Civic sense is not only part of the Japanese DNA but is  reinforced through education and societal behaviour.

20. Japan has automated underground parking garages for bicycles. Despite the excellent pubic transport people live to bicycle to work, shopping and for leisure. To ensure utilisation of space, orderly behaviour, safety and convenience the local administration operates underground bicycle garages.

21. Public smoking is banned in most parts of Japan. While it's is banned for the public good, smoking is not altogether banned either. Local administration has built designated smoking enclosures, where the smoke nuisance is contained and the non-smoking public are not inconvenienced.

22. Politeness of the Japanese in their interactions with others is a matter to be admired. Dignity of the individual and societal harmony is very evident. Perhaps, it has something to do with the influence of religion. More than 95 percent Japanese practise Shintoism and Buddhism, which are passive in their very nature.

23. Drivers of public transport buses besides performing the normal service of driving and ensuring fare collection also make announcements from time to time about safety, stoppages, etc. But what really moved me was the assistance that a driver gave to a wheelchair passenger. At the bus stop where the passer got on, the driver parked the bus, got off the bus and arranged a ramp at the entrance and helped the passenger in. When the passenger had to get off, the driver helped him get off too. Impossible even to visualise in most countries.

24. The vast array of food and its varieties are mind boggling. Japanese love their food, are innovative and creative in its presentation. People wait in queues outside restaurants serving their iconic recipes. Street food is the best way to experience the range Japanese cuisine has to offer, be it hot meals, seafood, desserts, barbeque, etc.

25. One of the major conveniences in Japan is the ever-present Konbinis or Convenience Stores. It is said that there are more than 50,000 convenience stores in Japan. The most popular ones among them are 7 Eleven, Family Mart and Lawsons. One can rely on them for fresh food, bakery items, drinks, liquor and much more. The sheer range is mind-blowing. Some of them provide hot water to make soups and noodles. The only restriction is that one cannot have food inside the store. Each of the convenience stores also is known for their signature food and pastries. These stores helped me to sample local fare at affordable prices without having to pay top dollar in swanky restaurants.

26. Most food joints and small retail outlets still deal in cash. Considering the level of automation in Japan I found it extremely strange that cash is still king in much of Japan. As compared, the extent to which digital payments have developed in India, is a matter of tremendous pride.

In the Land Of The Rising Sun - Hiroshima to Ahmedabad - 3 May 2026

The stay in the apartment had been adequate. The colour of the curtains did not agree with me, though. The apartment was fitted out quite well otherwise. I had made use of the washing machine too and the microwave, of course. As the weather was a bit dodgy, I decided to check out early to go to the airport. The bus stop, to take a ride to the Hiroshima Bus station, was a short walk from the apartment. I didn't have to wait long for the bus.

In a short while I reached the Hiroshima Bus station, a very large facility. Such bus termini are only seen in dreams. Excellent facilities, superb buses, polite staff, intelligible signages. The airport shuttle I got on left within 30 minutes. The ride to the airport was under an hour. While paying the fare I exhausted the balance I had on the Suica Card. An objective had been met.

I had arrived early at the airport, at 9.20. The check-in counters were not yet open. I had more than 90 minutes to wait. I utilised the time to have breakfast. I chose to have Udon noodles with shrimp tempura. A typical local breakfast item. The soup was awesome and the fare filling. I walked around the various stall selling local Japanese snacks, cakes, biscuits and chocolates. I picked up a few to exhaust the remaining Japanese Yen with me. First, it was the Suica and now the cash. Both finished. Time to fly

Despite the overarching use of technology in Japan, I found its use very limited in the Hiroshima airport. After I completed the check-in formalities at the counter I had to move to another location to check-in my luggage. I haven't seen this arrangement at any other airport. Yes, in India in some of the airports we have luggage scanning prior to check-in, but this was a first.

After the double check-in, the passenger and luggage, I moved to the queue for security. Suddenly, without any warning, the entire retinue of uniformed security officials locked the security hold and left the premises. It was one of the strangest things I have experienced in an airport. However, I was happy that such frustrating experiences were happening only as I was leaving the country. The security area remained non-functional for an hour. The security check was done quickly once the officials returned to their posts.

The departure of the VietJet flight was on time and the and transfer through Hanoi was also hassle-less. At the Hanoi airport, while waiting to board I had dinner. The long flight back to Ahmedabad boarded in time. But there was delay on the tarmac of over 45 minutes. This delay carried on to the arrival in Ahmedabad, which was close to midnight.

In the Land Of The Rising Sun - Hiroshima - 2 May 2026

The final day of my visit to Japan dawned bright and sunny. I was happy to note that the weather forecast was a bit off on both the days of my stay in Hiroshima. While I had borrowed an umbrella from the accommodation as a precaution the previous day, it did not seem it necessary for this day. It would be a leisurely day with just the visit to Miyagami Island.

To reach the island that was nearly 25 km away Google maps suggested that I take a multi-modal option of bus cum train cum ferry, which is what I did. So methodical and brilliantly executed is the logistics to the island. When I arrived at the Miyajimaguchi ferry terminal it was swarming with people, and I saw long queues head towards the embarkation points. I suspected that I would be consumed by the Golden week rush. I need not have worried. There was no unnecessary hurry, shoving or any indication that the site was experiencing heavy traffic. Everything was handled calmly and in an orderly manner. I passed through the gate paying the fare with the Suica card.

Two separate companies operate ferries between the mainland and the island, and they have a ferry departing almost every five minutes. The large ferries, that can accommodate vehicles too, are operated with clockwork precision, as are almost everything in this amazing country. Accommodation is on three decks with exits at both ends of the ferry. This avoids turning of the ferry. The ferry ride was a short one; just 10 minutes.

As I came out of the ferry terminal, I found a few deer in open and I was amazed. Then I heard announcements made that the deer in Miyagami are wild and that they should not be fed. Visitors are warned that the deer will try and dispossess visitors of their personal belongings. I did see a few instances of that as also those of visitors feeding the deer. However, they provided fantastic photo opportunities, especially for kids.

Miyajima is known for its forests and ancient temples. The major attractions are the Itsukushima Shrine and the giant, orange Great Torii Gate, which is partially submerged at high tide. The latter marks the entrance to the former, which was first built in the 12th century. There's plenty to do in the island for a full day. Miyajima is a romantic place, and some visitors stay overnight at one of the island's Ryokan.

Besides the main shrine and the torii gate, the Hokoku Shrine, Five-storied Pagoda, Tahoto (Two-storied Pagoda), Kiyomori Shrine as well as hiking to the sacred Mt Misen and walking paths can engage the full day visitor. However, the weather was hot and humid, I contrast to the mainland. Plenty of food and drink options spoil visitors. Many spend a substantial part of their visit feasting on the delicacies.

There is an entrance fee to the Itsukushima Shrine. The queues were rather long, but it moved quite fast. However, to access a vantage point to take photos with the giant Torii gate moved very slowly. People took their own sweet time, oblivious to those waiting patiently in line. I decided to find alternative locations for photo opportunities and found them. The shrine complex itself consists of two main buildings: the Honsha shrine and the Sessha Marodo-jinja, as well as 17 other different buildings and structures. All made of wood.

After spending a couple of hours in the island I retraced my journey back to the accommodation. On the way I picked up chicken Ramen noodles from a convenience store. Chunks of chicken with mayonnaise and tasty noodles made the meal yummy and wholesome. The evening was spent exploring the Hondori market. I was amazed by the underground bike parking facility nearby, separate enclosures for smokers and the number of restaurants and cafes that were doing brisk business. The recommended place for Okonomiyaki, the Okonomimura, had customers queuing up right into the street from the four storied complex! Tesla had put up a promotional kiosk, and they were conducting raffles too. I took part and won a small pack of face tissues!

On the way back to the accommodation, I picked up precooked ham and egg Okonomiyaki, pancakes with maple syrup and a can of Asahi beer and from the Family Mart convenience store. There are more than 50,000 convenience stores and they provide affordable and nutritious food, besides other things. The beer was quite good, with alcohol percentage of only 5. The Okonomiyaki consists substantially of cabbage. It was a good experience, no doubt. The pancakes were superb. That has brought to an end the tour in the Land of the Rising Sun. The return to the homeland begins tomorrow.

In the Land Of The Rising Sun - Osaka to Hiroshima - 1 May 2026

With the thought of having to take the 7.56 am Shinkansen journey from Osaka to Hiroshima, it was natural that sleep would suffer. I was ready to leave the hotel by 5.30 am, knowing fully well that I would be in Shin-Osaka station for the Shinkansen train in less than 30 minutes. It would also me a long wait for the train. I preferred that to lying on the bed agonising about what all could go wrong in the interim.

The room in Sosetsu Grand Fresca is smallish, but comfortable. Everything provided for and extremely neat and clean. Another feature is that a wide variety of toiletries are provided free of cost which ranged from hairbands to sunscreens to shower caps to bath pods to hair care and much more. There is no restriction on what you pick up or how many. The stand is regularly restocked.

Check-in and check-out are managed using machines. I slid the room key into the slot of the machine and the machine thanked me for the stay and notified that the checkout is successful. As simple as that. Fortunately, there was no rain, although evidence of overnight rain was everywhere. I took the metro from Nippombashi, changed after one stop and reached Shin-Osaka station in less than 20 minutes.

I made my way to the Shinkansen enclosure and got through the gates using the reservation tickets I had taken in Osaka. From the information board I realised that my train is due on platform 21. With more than 90 minutes for the train I bought a sandwich and potato chips for breakfast, which I had in the waiting room. Special announcements were on, thick and fast, about the holiday rush for the Golden Week.

I had received a message from the accommodation in Hiroshima that the check-in would be at 1600 hrs and that I could drop off the luggage in the room by noon. That didn't suit me to utilise the day adequately. Therefore , I requested special permission to lodge the baggage after 10 am, which was granted. Some relief before reaching Hiroshima.

Needless to say, the train was bang on time and I boarded the designated car and took my window seat. Soon the train was shooting through the countryside with brief stops in Kobe and Yokohama. The distance to Hiroshima of 330 km was done in 90 minutes. I stepped out on to the platform 2 minutes ahead of time. I had clear instructions from the accommodation on the bus to take and where to get off. I followed the instructions precisely and dropped off the luggage in the room, which was not yet ready.

I took out the planned itinerary for the day and started the walk to Hiroshima's Peace Memorial Park, which is one of the most prominent features of the city. The road which which to it is known as the Peace Boulevard. There are many statues and memorial along the way. One such is the Folding Hands Memorial, which is a tribute to the medical staff that were affected by the A bomb and those who helped in the aftermath despite the foreseen aftereffects. The handrails of the Peace Bridge were designed by Isamu Noguchi, an American sculptor and named it after the Japanese word 'to build'.

I came upon the large park of over 120,000 sqm with its trees, lawns, and walking paths after the Peace Bridge. The massive Park is in stark contrast to the surrounding downtown area. Before the bombing, the area of what is now the Peace Park was the political and commercial heart of the city. For this reason, it was chosen as the bomb's target. Four years to the day after the bomb was dropped, it was decided that the area would not be redeveloped but instead devoted to peace memorial facilities.

The park's main attraction is the Peace Memorial Museum, which poignantly portrays the history of Hiroshima, the dropping off the A-bomb and it's aftermath. At the entrance fee counter I claimed senior citizen fee reduction and the lady said, you look young, show me your id. Not a bad start to the day! The depiction of human stories, the devastation caused by the wanton destruction to cause untold suffering over generations are all there in photographs, paintings, articles, artefacts, clothing and personal effects. I was moved to tears in the museum and, may I tell you, I was not alone. Only man can be as cruel.

The Cenotaph for the A-Bomb Victims is an arched tomb for those who died because of the bomb, either because of the initial blast or exposure to radiation. Below the arch is a stone chest holding a register of these names, of which there are over 220,000. People line up and, in turn, payment their tribute there. Some bring wreaths, some flowers, some even messages.

The Flame of Peace in Hiroshima, lit on August 1, 1964, burns continuously in the Peace Memorial Park. The Flame was designed by Kenzo Tange and it symbolizes a protest against nuclear weapons and serves as a memorial to those who died in the 1945 bombing. The flame is intended to remain lit until all nuclear weapons are abolished. The Pond of Peace encircles the Cenotaph for the A-bomb Victims and the Flame of Peace suggesting that the monument is floating.

An extremely poignant memorial in the park is the Children's Peace Monument. It is a monument to commemorate Sadako Sasaki and the thousands of child victims of the atomic bombing of Hiroshima. Sadako Sasaki, a young girl, died of leukemia on October 25, 1955 from radiation of the atomic bomb. She had to endure indescribable pain as her parents were too poor to buy her painkillers. Stories such as these make you wonder how humans can be so cruel, generation after generation.

The A-Bomb Dome, also known as the Hiroshima Peace Memorial, is what remains of the former Prefectural Industrial Promotion Hall. The building served as a location to promote Hiroshima's industries. When the bomb exploded, it was one of the few buildings to remain standing, and remains so today. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the A-Bomb Dome is a tangible link to Hiroshima's unique past.

Every year on the anniversary of the bomb, a ceremony is held at the park. Speeches are made, wreathes are laid at the Cenotaph, and a moment of silence is observed at 8:15 am, the precise moment of detonation.

At the time of my visit hectic work was on, with the help of volunteers to deck up the grounds to celebrate the Hiroshima Flower Festival, one of Japan’s largest annual street festivals. It runs from May 3–5 during the Golden Week. Main celebrations are held along Peace Boulevard and attracts over 1.6 million visitors with parades and performances, blending celebration with a message of peace.

Hiroshima castle, sometimes referred to as the Carp Castle, was the residence of the Daimyo feudal lord and was originally constructed in the 1590s. Much of it was dismantled in the Meiji era, and what remained was largely destroyed by the A-bomb. The main tower was rebuilt in 1958; it is a replica that stands now.

Within the castle grounds is the Gokoku-jinja Shrine, founded in 1868 to enshrine 78 Hiroshima feudal lords who died in the Boshin War. This is another structure rebuilt after the A-bomb. The shrine is one of the most popular shrines in the Chugoku region, with 600,000 visitors on the first three days of the New Year.

There are bronze statues of carps swimming up a waterfall on either side of the main shrine. It is believed that rubbing their noses and wishing for personal goals, success with a difficult challenge, good luck and success in business, family wellbeing, happy marriage and fulfillment in love will make it happen.

Slightly over a km away by foot is the Shukkien garden. Entry is free for senior citizens. History of the garden dates back to 1620 and displays traditional aesthetics of Japanese Gardens. Valleys, mountains and forests are represented in miniature in the garden's landscapes.

The entire garden is connected by a path which winds around the pond at the center of the garden. The path passes through all of Shukkeien's various miniaturized sceneries. Connecting two sides of the pond is a small bridge from where one can feed carps. Some are massive and colourful.

I walked back to the accommodation through Nagarekawa, which is the premier entertainment and nightlife district of Hiroshima. It features numerous restaurants, neon-lit bars, clubs, and hostess bars, making it the hub of Hiroshima’s nightlife.

In the evening I walked along the Hondori shopping arcade, bustling with locals and tourists alike. Restaurants and cafes were busy. I was told that I must try Okonomiyaki in Hiroshima. The place recommended for it was the Okonomimura. It is a four storey building with numerous tiny restaurants. At the time of my visit evet restaurant was busy and there were patient souls waiting. Okonomiyaki is labelled the Japanese pizza and its literal meaning is "fry as you like". Battery, plenty of cabbage, meat and seafood, noodles et al cooked in a teppan griddle. Visitors are encouraged to try their hand at making the dish too.

I had a hot bowl of Ramen with chicken in a small restaurant with a glass of draft beer. The meal was polished off with two pieces of Karaage, the Japanese fried chicken.

In the Land Of The Rising Sun - Kyoto to Osaka - 30 April 2026

Starting early has its advantages. The streets are virtually empty, and the public transport is not crowded. I took a short bus ride to Kyoto Station for the train ride to Osaka. As I had bought the train ticket the previous evening I went in the general direction of the platforms and asked one of the gate wardens for assistance. He told me to get to platform 6 for the 6.31 am rapid train to Osaka. I had just a minute, but I made it to the train and got a seat for the journey of 30 mts.

The train was fast, but not noiseless like the Shinkansen. Many commuters were sleeping. One directly in the opposite seat was nodding so vigorously that I worried if his head would fall off. Next to him was a earphone, which I thought he had misplaced. A couple of stations later a lady occupied the vacant seat. She woke up the young man and asked if the earphone was his. He said it wasn't and the lady kept it in the empty space between them. It is famously said that in Japan one will not lose anything. What one loses one can find through a lost and found booth at almost all stations. I trusted that the earphone would find its rightful owner sooner rather than later.

Upon reaching Osaka, I hopped off and sought Help to move to the metro station. On the way to the metro, I came across ticket counters. Again, it was quite early in the morning and hence, the counters were free of customers. I went to one of the counters and immediately the staff got up and bowed and greeted me. I requested for an 8 am train ticket from Osaka to Hiroshima. He looked up in his computer and apologized that the train was completely reserved. However, he said he could get me a reservation for the 7.56 train! That is what minutes make to the schedule in Japan.

I took the metro line to the hotel where I had the reservation in. When I got to the hotel the girl at the reception told me that I had reached the wrong hotel! Where I was and where I should have been belonged to the same group of hotels, I had reached the Fresca Inn whereas I should have gone to Grand Fresca. Disappointed I was for the silly mistake I had made. However, the girl told me that either I could take the metro or walk to the Grand Fresca as it was not too far away. The drizzle was very light and therefore, I decided to walk.

When I reached the right hotel, I was told that I would be able to check-in only at 3 pm, as per policy. But they agreed to hold my suitcase in storage and give me an umbrella to do whatever sightseeing I wanted to do till the check-in time. Considering that it was drizzling and the skies were grey and rather drab I recast my plans for the city. The 300-meter Umeda Sky Building, Tsutenkaku Tower and Abeno Harukas, the two tall towers, were pruned from the day's itinerary. Armed with the transparent umbrella I walked to the metro, just a few minutes away from the hotel.

From the station where I got off to visit Osaka Castle, it was a walk of roughly 2 km. In Japan, on a sightseeing trip, one should be prepared to do at least 15,000 steps every day. I have been averaging over 18,000 steps per day. On the way to the Osaka castle, I came across a site where there used to be large, elevated warehouses, called the Hoenzaka warehouse, built in the 5th century AD. In close proximity to the reconstructed warehouse is the Osaka Museum of History and the office of Japan Broadcasting Corporation, NHK.

The grounds of Osaka Castle are huge and the park covers a total area of 105.6 hectares. It houses the Osaka Castle Museum, the Nishinomaru Garden and the Music Hall. It is free admission to walk most of the park, with admission fee for the garden and the Castle. The original castle was completed in 1583 and was attacked and destroyed several times, during WWII air raids and factional fights. The present castle is a concrete reconstruction finished in 1995. The main tower of Osaka Castle is an awesome sight, but knowing that it is a total reconstruction takes the sheen off somewhat.

While walking back to the metro station from the Osaka Castle I made a short detour to the memorial built in 1936 for schoolteachers and children who lost their lives in a typhoon a couple of years before. Teh Education Tower was publicly funded and now serves as a memorial to those their lives in subsequent disasters too.

From the Osaka Castle I made my way to the Shitennoji Temple, which is one of Japan's oldest temples and the first ever to be built by the state. It was founded in 593 by Prince Shotoku, who supported the introduction of Buddhism into Japan. Although the temple's buildings burned down several times over the centuries, they were always carefully reconstructed to reflect the original 6th century design.

The outer temple grounds are free to enter, but admission to the inner precinct is paid. In the pebble-covered courtyard of the inner precinct stands a five-storied pagoda that can be entered and ascended. In the Main Hall Prince Shotoku is enshrined as a statue of Kannon.

In the santum sanctorum a senior monk was conducting ceremonial prayers accompanied by chanting of two junior monks. I was surprised that visitors were not asked to take off their footwear. I stood around in complete awesome of the proceedings, at the end of which the faithful were individually blessed by the senior monk.

From the Temple I made my way by foot to the Kuromon Market. Along the way my stomach protested the lack of activity since the previous evening. I spotted a restaurant and walked in. I ordered skewered salted shrimp grill and a plate of mutton and rice. The food was average and the shrimp was heavily salted. Once the meal was done, I resumed the walk to the Market. In a few hundred meters the smell of fresh cooking assailed me.

The Kuromon Ichiba Market in Osaka is a historic, 170-meter-long covered market known as "Osaka's Kitchen". Featuring roughly 150 shops, it is a premier foodie destination specializing in fresh seafood (sashimi, grilled scallops, sea urchin), wagyu beef skewers, and Takoyaki. It offers a vibrant, albeit crowded, street food experience. The entire floating population of Osaka seemed to be there. The array on offer was exceptional. I regretted having gone to the restaurant. I should have waited and feasted on what was on offer in the market.

I saw Takoyaki being prepared fresh in one of the stalls of the food court and ordered a portion of 6 pieces. Takoyaki is a popular street food that originated from Osaka in the 1930s. These savory, golf ball-sized snacks feature a crisp, golden-brown batter exterior with a soft, gooey center filled with diced octopus, pickled ginger, and green onion. They are topped with savory sauce, mayonnaise, green seaweed and bonito flakes, served in a boat shaped plate. It looked so appetizing and yummy that I immediately started eating it. It was so hot, with trapped heat inside the ball shaped batter, that it burnt the food pipe!

After walking around the market for a while, marvelling at the various preparations and retail shops I got back to the hotel and checked in at the appointed time. The Hotel had asked for an additional 1000 JPY for check-in at 2 pm! After unpacking the bags, I rested for a while.

It was just a short walk from the hotel to the Dotonbori waterfront - must say that the hotel location is awesome. The waterfront promenade is impressive with its beautiful neon lights reflected on the water's surface. Th Dotonbori River, the face of Osaka, flows through the heart of the city. The extension of the promenade is underway along the river as part of a project aimed at positioning Osaka as the "Water City."

Many prominent stores like the Don Quijote have riverside entrances too. It also boasts a large Ferris wheel. The dock on the waterfront is popular for sightseeing boat cruises along the Dotonbori River. At the time of visit the river cruise boats were doing brisk business with long queues of passengers waiting for their turn. The cruise guides try and make it as entertaining for their customers as is humanly possible.

Visitors and river cruise boats stop at Osaka's iconic Dotonbori Glico Sign, or "Running Man", first installed in 1935. This famous Osaka landmark symbolises health, victory, and the city’s energetic spirit. It advertises Glico caramel, which promised enough energy to run 300 meters. It represents resilience, having been updated six times to become a popular, LED-lit photo spot.

The Dotonbori Street represents Osaka's premier, vibrant entertainment and nightlife. The street is known for its dazzling neon lights, iconic 3D signages, and dense concentration of restaurants. Naturally, it is a magnet for tourists and is bustling of activity. The numerous restaurants, cafes and stores have devised unique way of drawing customers to its doors.

A signage that caught my attention was the warning that it is prohibited to smoke in the entire city of Osaka. A violation attracts a fine of 1000 JPY. The entire street is meant for pedestrians only. Even bicycles are prohibited. I ambled along for hours quietly taking in the scenes, the excitement of the tourists, the animated restaurant and cafe ushers, appreciation of customers trying out the delicacies of Osaka culinary bouquet and Youtubers capturing the vibrant scenes on their devices.

Before returning to the hotel, I tried out a vanilla and chocolate ice cream. The cone tasted very different from what I had experienced before this. From a fruit shop I picked up some cherries before retiring for the night. A tightly packed day in Osaka.