96 hours in Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia – 28 May 2026

The driver reported in time for an 8 am departure for the Gandantegchinlen Temple, which in Tibetan translates to "The Great Place of Complete Joy". The primary religion in Mongolia is Buddhism, and Gandan became an important center for learning and practicing Buddha's teachings, not only in the country but for the entire Mahayana Buddhist community since its founding in 1834.

In 1904, the 13th Dalai Lama resided in this area. It survived the communist onslaught of the early 20th century, when over 10,000 lamas and over 900 monasteries were razed to the ground. The monastery reopened and was even permitted to operate as a Buddhist monastery in 1944. The complex has been restored and revitalized since 1990. Currently, within the monastery, where around 900 lamas reside, there are ten operational datsans and temples.

I walked around the complex unhurried. Many monks were seen arranging flower offerings, water and such on a gallery in front of the statue of the reclining Buddha. Unfortunately, the Janraisig Temple which is home to the impressive Janraisig statue was closed for the day. It is apparently the crown jewel of the complex.

I finally reached the massive prayer hall where a congregation of 600 plus monks and hundreds of worshippers were chanting prayers along with the main lama. I wiggled my way past the entrance and slowly walked along one of the alleys of the prayer hall. A tall monk summoned me, and I feared that he would ask me to leave the place as prayers were on. Instead, he asked me where I was from and the purpose of my visit.

As I responded he introduced me to another monk who was seated in prayer nearby in a low chair, who hailed from Ladakh. He pointed out to the main Buddha statue on the dais and proudly said that the entire set along with the ornaments had been gifted by PM Modi a few years back during his State visit. The monk took me to the sanctum sanctorum where I bowed in prayer for a few minutes. He also gave me permission to take photographs of the main prayer hall and the deities. Indeed, a rare honour.

The next in line for the day's visit was the Bogd Khan winter palace built between 1893 and 1903. It is the only surviving residence of Mongolia’s last theocratic ruler, the Bogd Khan. The entrance fee is 15,000 MNT. The complex features a European-style winter palace built by Russian architects, alongside six traditional wooden summer temples.

On display are rare Buddhist artwork, ceremonial garments, ornate royal furniture, and a unique collection of gifts from foreign dignitaries. It is the earliest museum in Mongolia with a collection of more than 8,600 exhibits. It sees an average footfall of 40,000 domestic and foreign visitors per year.

From a Palace to a monument. The Zaisan Hill Monument was constructed in 1971 to commemorate the friendship between the Soviet Union and Mongolia. It was built to honor the Soviet soldiers who fought alongside Mongolian forces during World War II. Surrounded by beautiful landscapes, the monument's exterior wall is modeled after a traditional Mongolian fireplace, which represents life.

The mural depicts various events that cemented the friendship between the two countries. A 27-meter-tall statue of a Russian soldier clutching a triumph flag in one arm and a machine gun in the other is part of the Memorial wall. The monument reminded me of a similar one in Gudauri, Georgia, which I had visited in 2024.

While returning from the Zaisan Hill Monument I dropped into the "International Buddha Garden," established in 2006. Korean Buddhist sculptors created a 23-meter-tall statue of Buddha, whose gaze is directed toward Ulaanbaatar, symbolizing protection over the city. The park was designed as a sacred space for both locals and visitors to seek peace and spiritual cleansing. The complex also includes a bell symbolizing peace and a drum calling upon the gods of heaven and earth for protection.

The Narantuul market is locally known as the "Black Market". It is said that a visit to the market is a must to experience the heartbeat of Ulaanbaatar, for it is a cultural landmark where tradition and modern life meet.

The narrow alleys of the market has hundreds of stores selling garments, textiles, handcrafted boots, accessories, jewellery, souvenirs, suitcases, fresh produce, etc. The sprawling bazaar is divided into sections, each dedicated to a specific type of product;  the sheer size overwhelmed me.

The last sightseeing stop for the day was at the Choijin Temple complex and museum, which was built between 1904 and 1908. The complex was dedicated to the eighth theocratic ruler's younger brother, who served as the official state oracle of Mongolia and occupied the temple until his death in 1918.

The Choijin Lama Temple survived the political tumult of the 1920s and 30s and was converted into a Museum of Religious History in 1942, exhibiting artifacts from destroyed monasteries. The Choijin Lama Temple is an important example of religious architecture.

Its five temples included in the complex were built using blue bricks, with timber roofs supported on wooden posts and decorated with green tiles. Each temple was dedicated to a specific deity. The Yadam Temple houses a collection of copper and brass sculptures; scroll paintings; diverse artworks including papier-mâché sculptures and masks; engravings; textiles; silk appliqué; and instruments used for religious ceremonies.

One of the must-not-miss events in Ulaanbaatar, I was told, is the Tumen Ekh Folk song and dance ensemble. It is staged in a ger within the Amusement Park in the centre of the city. Founded in 1989, the Tumen Ekh Ensemble is reputed to be one of the best national song and dance ensembles in Mongolia.

Famous for the quality of its show that combines professionalism and respect of Mongolian traditional culture, it has performed in over 60 countries and won prestigious international awards too. The hour-long program begins at 6 pm. The entrance is 60,000 MNT. However, if one feels the need to take photos and videos an additional amount of 60,000 MNT and 120,000 MNT have to be shelled out.

It was all well worth in the end with the program wonderfully packed with a variety of beautiful performances. From the Mongolian traditional love songs to an accomplished orchestra of traditional wind instruments, robust folk dances, Khoomei the famed throat singing, Team mask dance, Shaman dance to the mesmerizing contortionist performing the most complicated feats, it was a flawless tapestry of traditional artistry.

The traditional musicians perform beautiful pieces with their instruments and the dancers delight with their boundless energy. The singing, dancing and instrumental music were all staged with supreme pleasantness and dedication.

The Tumen Ekh Ensemble took me on a brief tour to Mongolia’s world of folk art staged along the vast steppes of grassland, clear blue skies, and a nomadic way of life that has been developed and preserved for thousands of years.

After the superb ensemble show was over I spared some time to walk the grounds of the Amusement Park, which was opened in 1969. The park includes a castle, roller coaster, games, paddle boats and haunted house and other attractions to keep children and teens screaming for more.

Currently, it has 24 rides in total. It also features an ice-skating rink during winter. The park was crowded and, as I was leaving, many more were coming in. Brilliant walkways with well-kept hedges are a feature of the park. There's plenty to eat and more to drink in the park.

On the way back to the accommodation I picked up a portion of chicken rice from a restaurant close by as well as a can of lemon tinged Sengur beer. It is one of the popular Mongolian brewed beers with less than 5 percent alcohol. The chicken rice was bland but healthy. The quantity was too huge to finish in one sitting. 

96 hours in Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia – 27 May 2026

The booked cab arrived before 5 am and I was ready to leave for the airport. At that hour the roads were free, and I arrived in the airport within an hour. Before leaving for the airport, I had a message from the airline that the flight would be leaving an hour late at 9.35 am.

The check-in was quick, but the security check took time. It was baffling that despite the large number of passengers snaking in queues only half the number of scanners were being used. Once the security was done the immigration formalities didn't take much time. I used the left-over time to pick up some chocolates and biscuits. Later I had a falafel platter for breakfast.

On board the Korean Air flight the service was excellent. I slept for most part of the three and half hour flight. In between I had a meal of stewed chicken with steamed potatoes in sauce. The tomato juice was out of the world. Shortly after noon, local time, we touched down in Ulaanbaatar, the 70th country of my visit.

Two flights had landed almost simultaneously, and the passengers queues up for immigration. The number of officers available to clear the passengers were inadequate and it took more than an hour to complete immigration. Despite that delay the baggage had not yet arrived on the carousel.

I had booked an airport transfer in advance from India and was in constant communication with My Mongolia Airport Transfers. As I exited the arrival gate the driver was there with a placard with my name on it. I left the airport at a quarter past 1 pm. The infrastructure from the airport till we neared Ulaanbaatar was top class with grid separated six lane highway.

On the way I could see almost a new city being raised with high rise commercial and residential buildings in various stages of development. The capital city was expanding its frontiers to take care of modern requirements, it seemed. As the capital city approached the traffic started crawling and I finally reached the accommodation after 3.30 pm. The last stretch of 15 km took nearly 90 minutes and driving discipline had gone out of the window.

At the accommodation, Anu, the girl in charge of the company that rented the apartment, was waiting to familiarise me with the facility. The apartment was on the fourth floor of a relatively old building with no elevator. It was indeed a herculean task to take the luggage up to the apartment. I was surprised to see how well the apartment was maintained and the facilities it contained. After the experience in Seoul, this was a couple of eras removed.

After settling the luggage into the apartment I took a walk to the Naiman Sharga road where Anu had told me I would be able to change currency. The going rate was 3588 MNT to a USD. I wasn't asked for my passport. The local currency in denominations of 20,000, 10,000, 1,000, 500, 100 and 50 was counted and handed over to me. I had a huge bundle of notes making a visible bump in my pocket.

I started the sightseeing I had listed for the afternoon from the Peace Avenue, which was just a hundred meters from my centrally located apartment. The Peace Avenue is one of Ulaanbaatar’s most prominent and significant thoroughfares, stretching across the heart of Mongolia’s capital. As a major street, it serves as a central artery connecting various important areas of the city and is lined with a mix of modern buildings, shops, and government institutions. Peace Avenue plays a crucial role in Ulaanbaatar's urban landscape, reflecting the city’s growth and modernization while also serving as a hub of activity and commerce.

The avenue has wide six landed roads and well-maintained sidewalks, which accommodate the heavy pedestrian and vehicular traffic typical of the bustling capital city. Peace Avenue also has a variety of retail establishments, restaurants, and cafes, offering a vibrant shopping and dining experience. It is a popular destination for residents and tourists alike, providing a glimpse into the dynamic urban life of Ulaanbaatar.

The Sukhbataar Square is the central square of Ulaanbaatar, named after the Mongolian revolutionary hero Damdin Sukhbaatar after his death in 1923. The square features a massive equestrian statue of the hero in its center. In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, the grounds of the present-day government palace and public square were largely occupied by a temple-monastery-palace complex, which acted as the official residence of Mongolia's spiritual leader.

The temple-complex was razed following the Mongolian People's Revolution of 1921. In the present day, the square is used for major state ceremonies, cultural events, concerts, and exhibitions. One such event had just concluded when I was at the square with young girls being presented medals and honours. Visiting heads of state generally pay respects in front of the statue of Sukhbaatar and Genghis Khan.

The modern Government Palace, rebuilt and renovated in the past decade, is located to the north of the square, has a large colonnaded monument containing statues of Genghis Khan in the centre, with Ogedei Khan and Kublai Khan to his left and right. The central statue of Genghis Khan is flanked by Bo'orchu and Muqali. Briefly, the name of the square had been changed to Chinggis Square in 2013, but the original name was restored in 2016.

A short walk away is the imposing modern Chinggis Khaan National Museum that was established in 2019 - 2022 on the Mongolian Plateau where the great Khaan was born. I decided to explore that magnificent museum a couple of days later along with the Nation Museum of Mongolia, which was in the vicinity of this complex.

The Peace Tower in Ulaanbaatar is a significant landmark in Ulaanbaatar that offers panoramic views of the city. It stands as a symbol of peace and friendship, with its unique architecture and historical significance drawing visitors from around the world. The tower's observation deck provides stunning vistas of the surrounding areas.

There are plenty of dining options in Ulaanbaatar for the hungry belly be it food trucks, cafes, convenience stores or restaurants. I had a huge portion of fries and sausages at a food truck. Mixed with a couple of sauces it tasted so yummy. Later I walked into the Art cafe, close to my apartment, for a cappuccino. I was served the coffee with a dash of Aparajita.

One of the things, unlike Seoul or even Tokyo, it is not difficult to find places or buildings because almost everywhere directions and signages are in English. However, communication with locals in English is cumbersome with most of them just saying 'No'! 

96 hours in Seoul, South Korea – 26 May 2026

It was to be a relatively lighter day after two days of hectic activity. I left the accommodation later than usual because of that as well as to avoid the peak metro traffic. A service with one transfer took me to the  Myeongdong station. From the metro exit I walked to the Namsan cable car station, of which the last 400 meters turned out to be quite steep.

The N Seoul Tower was partially visible from the cable car station. Being a senior citizen I had to pay just the child fare of 11,500 KRW for a return trip. The cable car station was quite crowded and the wait for the transport promised to be long as there were only two cars which went back and forth on two tracks. The cable car began its operation in 1962, transferring passengers from the foot of the mountain to the base of the tower.

When my turn finally came for the cable car ride, I was dismayed by the cloudy day and the poor views it afforded.  Exiting from the docking area of the Tower I climbed a few steep steps and came to the Lock Bridge leading to the N Seoul Tower. Its railings and fences were covered with "padlocks of love," where visitors will feel the weight and importance of love.

I came across people speaking many languages there, but the one thing in common was love, which showed on their faces, gestures and the poses for photos. Love could be seen in the air, so to say. The increasing volume of tourists translates also to a greater number of padlocks hanging on the fences of the bridge and base of the tower, where there are seven tree-shaped frames.

This place has now become a popular date spot for couples. Like the Pont Neuf bridge in Paris, couples head to the tower to lock their "padlock of love" onto the railing and to dream that their love will last to the very end. I noticed a signage which said that old locks will be removed and kept in safe custody for a year, after which it will be disposed off. 

Besides, boxes are provided in many places to dispose off the keys of locks placed on the fences. This is to ensure that people don't throw them away somewhere in the Namsan Park, thereby harming the environment. High visibility thanks to TV dramas, entertainment programs featuring movie stars and travel guidebooks, the N Seoul Tower has become a must-visit spot for travelers to Seoul.

People flock in the observation platform near the N Seoul Tower to enjoy cool, fresh breeze blowing across Namsan Mountain, a respite from the hot and humid weather. The Namsan Park located at the base of Namsan Mountain is the largest civic park in Seoul. This is a space where people can enjoy nature within the city and hike the various trails within the park.

I did not buy a ticket to go to the observation deck of the tower as it was cloudy. I had looked forward to the panoramic views of the city, but was denied by the weather. Instead, I sat close to an observation deck and ate a meal of fried chicken, French fries, garlic bread and coleslaw.

I didn't have to wait much for the return cable car ride. From the level at which I had bought the ticket for the cable car ride I 'discovered' the Oreumi elevator. The steep funicular ride to the level of the road is free. I wished I had known about it earlier, instead of having burnt the soles of my feet. From the bottom of the funicular I decided to walk all the way to the Dongdaemun Design Plaza (DDP), a good hour away.

Fortunately, while the weather denied me the views from the N Seoul Tower, it was my assist in the long walk. Besides the weather, flawless sidewalks, pedestrian crossings and orderly traffic made the walk enjoyable and not as arduous as I thought it would be. On the way, I dropped by at "The Twosome Place", a chain of cafes in Korea, for a cup of coffee. The break refreshed and gave me fresh legs for the rest of the walk.

When I reached the DDP I was blown away by the futuristic facade. The massive structure is an urban attraction. I walked in through the entrance doors expecting a hefty fee to take a round of the facility. I was told that entrance fee is only leviable if you want a roof walk to walk along the newly expanded 652-meter DDP rooftop and enjoy a 360-degree panoramic view of Dongdaemun and the Seoul skyline. The roof tour program offers a unique way to experience the city from above.

The DDP cultural complex connects design and culture through exhibitions and events. It showcases new products and trends while sharing creative values through engaging experiences. One of the ongoing exhibitions was the Keykney illustrations. I had never heard of this at all before. At the exhibition I came to know that Keykney is the pseudonym of a Korean illustrator, who provides comfort and laughter through his impromptu works. His works are filled with humor and live, working as a stress buster for everyday life since 2018.

From the DDP I took a metro ride to the premises of the National Museum of Korea, which is the flagship museum of Korean history and art in South Korea. Since its establishment in 1945, the museum has been committed to various studies and research activities in the fields of archaeology, history, and art, continuously developing a variety of exhibitions and education programs. The National Museum of Korea houses a vast collection of artifacts from ancient times to the modern era in a wide range of topics, including art and culture.

The outdoor grounds feature pagodas and other stone artworks too large to be on display inside. In addition to galleries with a wide array of national and international pieces, the National Museum of Korea is a stage for a number of cultural activities related to collection, preservation, research and analysis, social training, academic publications, intercultural exchange programs, concerts, and more.

As per the itinerary I had to visit the Han Riverside and experience the calm and uplifting environment there. However, the skies didn't hold much promise and there was forecast for rain. I decided to skip this part of the day's program and return to the accommodation. It was indeed the right decision because it started raining as soon as I got into the metro subway train.

I had about 2500 KRW on the T-money card. I hoped to cash that out in the 7/11 convenience store on the way back to the accommodation. In Japan I had done the same with the Suica card. With that in mind, I walked into the 7/11 store and picked up a can of beer and Korean noodles. At the counter the lady flatly refused saying that the card is already cashed out, which it wasn't. At one point, with customers waiting, I let the matter go and paid for the items in cash. Thus, the balance on the card was lost.

The can of Kloud beer, which had become the norm in Seoul, preceded the dinner which consisted of Korean noodles and some sweet potato. I reconfirmed the cab reservation to leave for the airport at 5 am to take the flight to Ulaanbaatar, before sinking into the bed to rest the fatigued muscles and weary bones.