Back to home base from Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia – 31 May 2026

The tour of Mongolia was over, and it was time to return to India. In many ways Mongolia was a revelation. The country, roughly oval in shape, measuring 2,392 km from west to east and, at its maximum, 1,259 km from north to south, is about one-third the land size of India. Another comparison is that Mongolia’s land area is roughly equivalent to that of the countries of western and central Europe and lies in a similar latitude range. The landlocked country has Russia to the north and China to the south.

The country has long cold winters and short cool-to-hot summers. Mostly covered by steppes, mountains to its north and the Gobi Desert to its south, the country has very little arable land. Even today more than 30% of the population is nomadic or partly nomadic. The predominant religion in Mongolia is Buddhism, and the majority of the state's citizens are of Mongol ethnicity, with Kazakhs, Tuvans, and other minorities residing in the western part of the country.

Historically the foundation of the Mongolian economy, the sector that contributes a large portion of local employment, is agriculture and herding. But it is highly susceptible to extreme climate events. Mining of copper, coal and gold now dominates the GDP landscape, with China being it's major export market. Mongolia is heavily dependent on Russia for its energy needs.

The Mongolian currency is the Tugrik or MNT. The currency denominations range from 50 to 20,000 and I saw no coins in circulation. I didn't see any evidence of the 10 and 20 MNT currency either, possibly because of its insignificant value.

The city centre of Ulaanbaatar is modern with architecturally significant buildings, six lane roads, modern shops, a large square and a teeming population. Of the 3.5 million population, close to 1.7 million live in and around the city. This creates disproportionate demands on public transportation and individual vehicles. The city traffic is a nightmare and the country's administration is in the process of getting a metro system in place as quickly as it can.

While many buildings in the city centre are modern there are also renovated Soviet style apartments. I stayed on the 4th floor of one such complex with no elevator. It was indeed a torture to deposit and retrieve the luggage at the time of check-in and check-out. In fact, on the day of my departure I got locked out of my apartment as I had left the keys in the apartment and come down with part of my luggage. Fortunately, the girl who took care of the apartment sent someone with a spare key and saved my day.

The driver who had been tasked with my airport transfers and taking me around on two days turned out to be a gem. The ever smiling and polite Daagii was the best guide I could have hoped for in Ulaanbaatar. He was deputed by Enkhbold of 'My Mongolia Travel Airport Transfers'. I had had a long chat with Enkhbold before I started confirmed the booking with him.

The services of the company and both Enkhbold and Daagii were superlative. I would certainly recommend My Mongolia Travel for those who seek airport transfer and local travel in Ulaanbaatar.

Daagii dropped me at the airport with more than an hour left for the check-in counters to open. Once they did, I checked my luggage in through to Delhi via Beijing. I had time on my hands and some local currency in my wallet. Picked up some goodies for my grandchildren, had a cup of coffee and spent the balance on yet another fridge magnet.

Mercifully, the Air China flight to Beijing was announced. Else I would have enriched Mongolia's economy some more! The two-hour flight was on time and I had enough time to get to the gate for the flight to Ahmedabad. In the little time that I had I walked around admiring the interiors of the airport, checked out souvenirs and ended up with a gelato.

The food on both the Air China flights was adequate and the staff were quite courteous and attentive. While the flight landed in Ahmedabad almost in time, the baggage carousel took its time fetching my luggage. I was among the last to get the luggage, over 45 minutes after the flight landed. I was back in home based. The car was waiting to take me to my home in Gandhidham, a five-hour drive away from Ahmedabad. 

96 hours in Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia – 30 May 2026

The last full day in Ulaanbaatar dawned not so bright as the previous days. That didn't matter, however, as only visits to two museums was on the cards - the Chinggis Khaan National Museum and the National Museum of Mongolia. Both the museums were not far from the accommodation and hence, the car was not booked for the day. A few slices of toast and butter, a hot cup of coffee and a couple of tangerines was the breakfast spread.

A leisurely walk of 20 minutes took me to the imposing, modern building housing the Chinggis Khaan National Museum. The decision to establish the Chinggis Khaan National Museum was taken by the Prime Minister of Mongolia in 2019. The groundbreaking of the museum was held in 2020 at the site where the old building of the Mongolian Natural History Museum used to stand. Within two years the museum was opened to the public and a research library was added to it in a few more months. The museum was so impressive that National Geographic declared it as one of the 20 cultural hotspots to visit in 2024.

The entrance fee for a foreigner is 45,000 MNT with an additional charge of 50,000 MNT for photography. The charge for videography is four times that. I settled for mobile photography. English speaking guides are also available. It is advisable to book them in advance. Audio guides are also on hire, which can be used at specific locations within the museum to detail the exhibit and throw some more light on it. I found the QR code placed on the walls of most of the important exhibits quite useful to guide me through the grand sweep of history that the museum afforded.

The museum houses more than 10,000 artefacts, nearly 90 percent of them original, in a 9-storey building. The main structure of the museum resembles a piazza, and the top resembles a ger. The museum also houses a research library with a collection of more than 6,000 volumes.

The 6 floors of exhibition halls of the Chinggis Khaan National Museum are fitted out with modern technology. The exhibits are arranged in three main sections, namely the ancient states before Chinggis Khaan, the Mongol Empire period, and the period after the Khanate up to the 20th century.

The exhibits include clothing, armour, coins, beads, weapons, models of housing, masks, footwear, pottery, ceramics, tableware, life-size models, paintings, steles, sculptures, video narration of important periods and events,

The sweep of history from Modun Shanyu, the founder of the Hun Empire, the first nomadic state, to the spread of the Mongol Empire starting with Chinggis Khaan in 1209 captivated me. At its zenith in 1259 the Mongol Empire encompassed China, Japan, Korea, Central Asia, Iran, Iraq, Syria, Turkey, Afghanistan, Georgia and Armenia.

How they managed their iron grip over these territories for over 200 years was indeed a matter of wonderment. The Mongol Empire has been the largest empire in geographical spread in the history of mankind. Mention has to be made of the centrality of Karakorum to the Mongol empire. It was at the centre of East-West trade and could be said to be the political capital of the world with the Mongol Empire holding sway over such a vast territory straddling both the east and the west, as it were.

The piece de resistance of the Museum is the Chinggis Khaan Hall of Fame. The massive gold gilded statue of the seated Chinggis Khaan is impressive in every which way. The proportion is humongous and every detail has been captured. The statue is housed in a structure resembling a ger and the interior is ornately done up.

The importance of Chinggis Khaan in the history of Mongolia can be gauged from the fact that visitors are only permitted to face the great Khaan and retreat from the viewing facing the statue. Visitors bow and some even perform acts of worship before the statue. The atmosphere is pure electric. Even 800 years after his passing and the cessation of the empire he founded Chinggis Khaan is revered and held in the highest esteem.

The tour had taken me more than 3 hours, and I had no appetite for another museum having poured all my energies into the tour of the magnificent Chinggis Khaan National Museum. Hence, I skipped a tour of the National Museum of Mongolia. On the way back to the accommodation I dropped into a convenience store, Nice to CU, and had a cup of cappuccino and a cream bun.

Diagonally opposite the accommodation is the Flower Center. I walked in there, curious about what was on sale in the three floors of the building. The ground floor is almost entirely populated by stores selling fresh flowers and awesome bouquets. They were quite busy despite it being a holiday. The stores on the first and second floors mostly sold souvenirs with a Mongolian touch, such as felt products, musical instruments, sheep ankle bones used for fortune telling and playing games, deel, fridge magnets, bookmarks, etc. After a cursory exploration of the Flower Centre, I repaired to my accommodation for a short rest.

During the four days that I have been in Ulaanbaatar the days have been long with the first days of the sun becoming visible by 5 am and light lasting till almost 10 pm. This day, however, the skies started darkening after 5 pm with ominous clouds appearing in the horizon. Nevertheless, I started out for a short walk with cool breeze blowing steadily.

Soon I came to the State Department Store and walked in, to experience what it had. From cars to needles, everything was on sale. The smell of fresh food and stacks of Mongolian chocolate reduced my resolutions to shards. Almost opposite the Store was a restaurant that specialised in Mongolian food. I ordered a full meal of beef, egg, salads and rice.

Drops of rain had started to fall when I left the restaurant with the packed meal. When I reached the accommodation, the rain had started pelting quite a bit. A can of premium Cass beer preceded the lovely Mongolian meal. The short stay in Mongolia had come to an end and so had the visit to the 70th country.

96 hours in Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia – 29 May 2026

The program for the day was to visit places outside of the capital city. Before we started out on the tour I requested the driver to take me to Naiman Sharga road, which is the place where most of the money changers work out of in Ulaanbaatar. This is also where you get the best rates in Ulaanbaatar. The exchange process is hassle-less and in a trice I was done.

The office traffic had picked up considerably and leaving the city was a laborious affair. Finally, we hit the road for the Chinggis Khan equestrian statue. The Complex is one of the most recognizable landmarks in Mongolia and a major cultural attraction. The two-lane road was good in parts. The driver stopped at a place where double-humped Bactrian camels and kites were being readied to meet the requirements of tourists.

About 60 km from Ulaanbaatar, rising above the open steppe is the giant stainless-steel monument representing the legacy of Chinggis Khaan, the founder of the Mongol Empire and one of history’s most influential leaders. The complex attracts travelers, historians, photographers, and cultural explorers who wish to understand Mongolia beyond its capital city. The site has ample parking and facilities to cater to seasonal rush.

The construction of the 40-meter tall Chinggis Khaan Statue, the tallest equestrian statue in the world as certified by the Guinness World Records, was completed in 2008 to mark the 800th anniversary of the founding of the Mongol Empire. Besides the statue, the site includes a museum and exhibition halls, cultural displays, an observation deck and open steppe surroundings. Mongolians revere Genghis Khaan as the father of the nation and a symbol of unity and strength.

The statue depicts Chinggis Khaan riding his horse towards the east, using a golden whip, representing the beginning of Chinggis Khaan’s life and empire. According to historical legends, the site where the statue is located is associated with the early life of Chinggis Khaan. Some other legends indicate that he once discovered a golden whip in this region, which was a symbol of his later power and leadership.

The sheer scale of the monument and its significance as a symbol of Chinggis Khaan and modern Mongolia provide travelers with an understanding of this country that goes beyond what is available through other means.

From the Chinggis Khaan Statue complex we drove through the Gorkhi-Terelj National Park to one of the famous sights in it, the Turtle Rock. I was amazed by the profusion of lodges, resorts and accommodation in the national park.

The most prominent type of accommodation, as is to be expected in these parts of the world, is the stylised ger. A ger is a traditional portable, circular dwelling used for centuries by nomadic herders in the steppes of Central Asia, particularly in Mongolia. It is built with a wooden lattice frame, covered in thick sheep's wool felt, and topped with a canvas outer layer.

The park has a picture postcard alpine landscape which include many rock formations popular with rock climbers. One such is the Turtle Rock for the shape it resembles. Well known among tourists, the gigantesque rock was shaped into a turtle over millennia by only wind and rain. The amazing art by nature is just off the main road into the park. The park has been called the Switzerland of Mongolia, for its natural and healthy environment.

There are opportunities for horse and camel riding, hiking inside the rock and nearby. My driver told me to take my time and hike up the Turtle Rock. Not wanting to spoil his attempt to motivate or humour me I walked a few places up the base of the rock and sauntered back. This was not for old legs, whatever the driver thought of me.

A legend related to the Turtle Rock states that the King Galdanboshigt hid all his treasures during the war with Manchu Troops in 1600 somewhere near the rock. Since then, the locals consider the rock as bringing wealth to those who visit it. I shall wait for the legend to come true in my case.

From the Turtle Rock we drove to the parking lot of the Aryabal Meditation centre. From the parking lot it was a long walk up along winding, slopey path and steps to the meditation temple. Entrance fee to the temple is 2000 MNT for foreigners. Along the path are 144 placards with mantras, written in English and Mongolian, to be read by visitors as they walk up to the temple, which was built in the early 19th century by Mongolian and Tibetan artists in Terelj National Park.

The present-day temple was built between 1998 and 2004 in the scenic and energetic area. The final assent to the Aryabal Meditation Temple is a set of 108 stone stairs. High up on a rock phase of the National Park is inscribed a mantra in Tibetan language, " Om Mani Padme Hum", to be chanted which climbing the 108 steps to the main temple. Around the temple are placed 108 small stupas and 108 prayer wheels. The vast expanse of the National park from the temple is a sight to behold.

The itinerary for the day was complete. All that remained was the drive back to the accommodation. The traffic hold-up was such that it took us more than 2 hours to navigate the final 12 km. I wondered if that final lap was more arduous or the walk up to the Temple!

Traffic congestion is horrendous in Ulaanbaatar city because there is no alternative to surface transport in the packed city. A metro system has been in the works for more than a decade. It is expected that construction will start in 2026. It is certainly long overdue. Dinner consisted of Egg fried rice preceded by a couple of cans of lemon laced Sengur beer.

96 hours in Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia – 28 May 2026

The driver reported in time for an 8 am departure for the Gandantegchinlen Temple, which in Tibetan translates to "The Great Place of Complete Joy". The primary religion in Mongolia is Buddhism, and Gandan became an important center for learning and practicing Buddha's teachings, not only in the country but for the entire Mahayana Buddhist community since its founding in 1834.

In 1904, the 13th Dalai Lama resided in this area. It survived the communist onslaught of the early 20th century, when over 10,000 lamas and over 900 monasteries were razed to the ground. The monastery reopened and was even permitted to operate as a Buddhist monastery in 1944. The complex has been restored and revitalized since 1990. Currently, within the monastery, where around 900 lamas reside, there are ten operational datsans and temples.

I walked around the complex unhurried. Many monks were seen arranging flower offerings, water and such on a gallery in front of the statue of the reclining Buddha. Unfortunately, the Janraisig Temple which is home to the impressive Janraisig statue was closed for the day. It is apparently the crown jewel of the complex.

I finally reached the massive prayer hall where a congregation of 600 plus monks and hundreds of worshippers were chanting prayers along with the main lama. I wiggled my way past the entrance and slowly walked along one of the alleys of the prayer hall. A tall monk summoned me, and I feared that he would ask me to leave the place as prayers were on. Instead, he asked me where I was from and the purpose of my visit.

As I responded he introduced me to another monk who was seated in prayer nearby in a low chair, who hailed from Ladakh. He pointed out to the main Buddha statue on the dais and proudly said that the entire set along with the ornaments had been gifted by PM Modi a few years back during his State visit. The monk took me to the sanctum sanctorum where I bowed in prayer for a few minutes. He also gave me permission to take photographs of the main prayer hall and the deities. Indeed, a rare honour.

The next in line for the day's visit was the Bogd Khan winter palace built between 1893 and 1903. It is the only surviving residence of Mongolia’s last theocratic ruler, the Bogd Khan. The entrance fee is 15,000 MNT. The complex features a European-style winter palace built by Russian architects, alongside six traditional wooden summer temples.

On display are rare Buddhist artwork, ceremonial garments, ornate royal furniture, and a unique collection of gifts from foreign dignitaries. It is the earliest museum in Mongolia with a collection of more than 8,600 exhibits. It sees an average footfall of 40,000 domestic and foreign visitors per year.

From a Palace to a monument. The Zaisan Hill Monument was constructed in 1971 to commemorate the friendship between the Soviet Union and Mongolia. It was built to honor the Soviet soldiers who fought alongside Mongolian forces during World War II. Surrounded by beautiful landscapes, the monument's exterior wall is modeled after a traditional Mongolian fireplace, which represents life.

The mural depicts various events that cemented the friendship between the two countries. A 27-meter-tall statue of a Russian soldier clutching a triumph flag in one arm and a machine gun in the other is part of the Memorial wall. The monument reminded me of a similar one in Gudauri, Georgia, which I had visited in 2024.

While returning from the Zaisan Hill Monument I dropped into the "International Buddha Garden," established in 2006. Korean Buddhist sculptors created a 23-meter-tall statue of Buddha, whose gaze is directed toward Ulaanbaatar, symbolizing protection over the city. The park was designed as a sacred space for both locals and visitors to seek peace and spiritual cleansing. The complex also includes a bell symbolizing peace and a drum calling upon the gods of heaven and earth for protection.

The Narantuul market is locally known as the "Black Market". It is said that a visit to the market is a must to experience the heartbeat of Ulaanbaatar, for it is a cultural landmark where tradition and modern life meet.

The narrow alleys of the market has hundreds of stores selling garments, textiles, handcrafted boots, accessories, jewellery, souvenirs, suitcases, fresh produce, etc. The sprawling bazaar is divided into sections, each dedicated to a specific type of product;  the sheer size overwhelmed me.

The last sightseeing stop for the day was at the Choijin Temple complex and museum, which was built between 1904 and 1908. The complex was dedicated to the eighth theocratic ruler's younger brother, who served as the official state oracle of Mongolia and occupied the temple until his death in 1918.

The Choijin Lama Temple survived the political tumult of the 1920s and 30s and was converted into a Museum of Religious History in 1942, exhibiting artifacts from destroyed monasteries. The Choijin Lama Temple is an important example of religious architecture.

Its five temples included in the complex were built using blue bricks, with timber roofs supported on wooden posts and decorated with green tiles. Each temple was dedicated to a specific deity. The Yadam Temple houses a collection of copper and brass sculptures; scroll paintings; diverse artworks including papier-mâché sculptures and masks; engravings; textiles; silk appliqué; and instruments used for religious ceremonies.

One of the must-not-miss events in Ulaanbaatar, I was told, is the Tumen Ekh Folk song and dance ensemble. It is staged in a ger within the Amusement Park in the centre of the city. Founded in 1989, the Tumen Ekh Ensemble is reputed to be one of the best national song and dance ensembles in Mongolia.

Famous for the quality of its show that combines professionalism and respect of Mongolian traditional culture, it has performed in over 60 countries and won prestigious international awards too. The hour-long program begins at 6 pm. The entrance is 60,000 MNT. However, if one feels the need to take photos and videos an additional amount of 60,000 MNT and 120,000 MNT have to be shelled out.

It was all well worth in the end with the program wonderfully packed with a variety of beautiful performances. From the Mongolian traditional love songs to an accomplished orchestra of traditional wind instruments, robust folk dances, Khoomei the famed throat singing, Team mask dance, Shaman dance to the mesmerizing contortionist performing the most complicated feats, it was a flawless tapestry of traditional artistry.

The traditional musicians perform beautiful pieces with their instruments and the dancers delight with their boundless energy. The singing, dancing and instrumental music were all staged with supreme pleasantness and dedication.

The Tumen Ekh Ensemble took me on a brief tour to Mongolia’s world of folk art staged along the vast steppes of grassland, clear blue skies, and a nomadic way of life that has been developed and preserved for thousands of years.

After the superb ensemble show was over I spared some time to walk the grounds of the Amusement Park, which was opened in 1969. The park includes a castle, roller coaster, games, paddle boats and haunted house and other attractions to keep children and teens screaming for more.

Currently, it has 24 rides in total. It also features an ice-skating rink during winter. The park was crowded and, as I was leaving, many more were coming in. Brilliant walkways with well-kept hedges are a feature of the park. There's plenty to eat and more to drink in the park.

On the way back to the accommodation I picked up a portion of chicken rice from a restaurant close by as well as a can of lemon tinged Sengur beer. It is one of the popular Mongolian brewed beers with less than 5 percent alcohol. The chicken rice was bland but healthy. The quantity was too huge to finish in one sitting.