Balkan Experience - Greece & Albania - Tirana to India - 6 Sep 2026

Sleep completely deserted me despite the best efforts to at least catch forty winks. The thought of having to take the 3 am bus, for which I had to leave the apartment at 2.30 am kept playing over and over in my mind. Just after midnight I gave up any pretence of even trying to sleep. I showered, completed the packing and left the apartment at quarter past 1 am.

I wasn't sure if the streets would be safe at that hour. I needn't have worried because most of my transit from the apartment to the bus stop was through the Skanderbeg Square. It took me just 10 minutes to the bus stop. Youngsters were seen moving about after a hectic night out. Some were obviously quite drunk.

I saw a guy trying to do his version of the pole dance on a lamp post. Some laughed so loud that I felt the tremors. However, nothing was out of hand. Police presence was extremely visible. Their whistles and the occasional warning from patrol vehicles kept matters under control. In one place I found a driver being questioned, possibly due to negligent driving.

There were not too many passengers on board the bus that left for the airport exactly on the hour at 2 am. The conductor of the bus boarded it a few stops later and collected the fare. The fare could be paid in Euros (4) or Lek (400) for the one-way ticket. The trip lasted less than 30 minutes with the roads virtually empty.

There was some excitement on board when the driver suddenly braked. There was a stray cow on the road. People started discussing how dangerous it is for such things to happen and the negligence of the owner, etc. I doubt if anyone saw me smirking, listening to such drivel - wished they would drive in India some day!

When I got to the Tirana airport the Wiss Air counter was open. The check-in was smooth and so were the immigration and security formalities. The duty-free area is under renovation. I found the prices of liquor quite reasonable. I had over three hours for the gate to open. I took a comfortable seat in front of a cafe. With business not heavy at that hour, I was not disturbed from my perch.

The flight to Athens took off on time and within an hour I was facing a massive immigration queue. Fortunately, the queue moved fast enough for me to collect my suitcase within 30 minutes. I exited the airport, bought a cup of cappuccino and sat in an enclosure near it to kill time.

I had almost five hours for the next flight from Athens to Mumbai. I recollected the tense moments four days back when I discovered that my ticket from Athens to Tirana was booked for the wrong day. Anyway, everything since then had planned out fine and the trip to the Balkan States was coming to an end.

The check-in counter for the Indigo flight opened 3 hours prior to the flight. Though I was given the boarding passes for the Athens-Mumbai and Mumbai-Ahmedabad flights, as per rules, I was expected to complete immigration and customs formalities at the first port of entry into India, namely, Mumbai.

The flight was not even half occupied. It landed in Mumbai half an hour after midnight. I took photos and videos of the views of the Middle Eastern landscape in between naps. The airline staff served chicken dum biryani with mirchi ka salan for lunch with a beverage of choice, which was coconut water with lichi juice for me. Well before landing passengers were served a vegetarian snack with a cup of coffee.

During the course of the flight I requested for a blanket and I was told that I have to buy one! When I expressed my displeasure, the staff was kind enough to adjust the temperature. Credit where it is due; the staff returned a while later to check if I was feeling more comfortable.

Apparently, Indigo does not have a separate set of aircrafts for international destinations from India, where Mumbai is its hub. The rather long flights to Europe spanning more than 7 hours without an entertainment system or a pillow and blanket certainly falls within Shashi Tharoor's definition of cattle class. Moreover, the entire economy section is served by just four airhostesses. This is sheer understaffing, when the flight is full, as was the case on the Mumbai-Athens flight on 29th August. The aisle was constantly occupied by the staff with their trolleys, incommoding passengers.

The immigration was quick in Mumbai and I passed through the duty-free glancing at deals for liquor. I was not sure if it was within rules to purchase liquor in the Mumbai duty free and carry it on a domestic flight to Ahmedabad. For sure, I could purchase liquor in the Ahmedabad duty free if I landed there by an international flight.

Anyway, not wanting to take the risk, I quickly passed through duty free and collected my suitcase from the carousel. Massive queues had formed at the customs green channel exit where staff screened hand baggage. I patiently ambled along and finally 'broke free' from the unnecessary hassle, which defeated the very purpose of a green channel exit.

I took the domestic transfer exit at the airport and deposited my suitcase at the Indigo transfer desk for onward transfer to Ahmedabad. Thereafter, I went through the mandatory security check and waited in the food court area for an hour before going to the gate for the flight. During the wait, I had a feast of masala dosa, idli and vada with a strong cup of filter coffee. Wah, the taste of food from one's own country is something I delightfully savoured.

The flight to Ahmedabad took off ahead of schedule and landed at the destination nearly 30 minutes before the scheduled arrival time. Thus ended my visits to the 72nd and 73rd countries. In less than three weeks I expect to be back in Ahmedabad airport for another leg of the Balkan tour to Bulgaria and North Macedonia.

Balkan Experience - Greece & Albania - In Tirana, Albania - 5 Sep 2026

With just this day to go before I start my return journey to India, I had to check out the best way to get to the bus stop for the airport shuttle operated by Luna, the same one I had taken while coming from the airport on 2nd. From the apartment I reached the bus stop in about ten minutes and I cross checked with one of the drivers there that the service operated every hour on the hour, 24x7.

My flight from Tirana is at 6.50 am the next day. To be there at least by 4 am, I have to take the 3 am bus. That would mean leaving the apartment after 2.30 am. That matter settled, I took to the road for a few more places I wanted to visit this day. In fact, all of them were within the Grand Park of Tirana.

The Lana River runs along like a channel within the city of Tirana. Frankly, I have been mighty disappointed that the water system seemed to be in an alarming environmental state. It looked polluted and walking beside it I had to pinch my nose to stay away from the smell arising from it.

I later learnt that the local residents have been complaining about the stench and the pollution. Besides, these waters irritate the vegetables and fruits consumed by the citizens. An alarming situation, indeed!

A leisurely 2 km walk brought me to teg edge of the Grand Park of Tirana, a sprawling 289-hectare public green space built around a scenic artificial lake. The Grand Park features an artificial lake with popular walking and jogging works that loop around the water, nearly 33,000 trees, shrubs, and plants, plus an adjacent botanical garden and zoo. The park also has many historical landmarks.

The National Holocaust Memorial consists of three large stone tablets inscribed with historical descriptions. The three inscription stones are written in Albanian, English, and Hebrew. While the monument honours the victims of the Holocaust, I felt, that it is more a thanksgiving to the unique role played by the Albanian people during WWII.

Guided by "Besa" - the traditional code of honour and hospitality - Albanian citizens, Muslims and Christians alike, hid and protected Jewish refugees, resulting in Albania being the only occupied European country to end the war with a larger Jewish population than it had at the beginning. This had been the case in many places of the Middle East too, where Muslims protected the Jews during the pogroms. Today, they play the victim card and inflict untold misery to the very same communities that protected and safeguarded them while being hunted. How ironic such monuments are when seen in today's context.

Not far from the Holocaust Memorial is the German War Cemetery. The central granite block that represents a central memorial altar is flanked by vertical granite stone slabs with the names of over 2400 German soldiers engraved on them. They had lost their lives in Albania during WWII.

A few paces from there is a historical memorial stone that marks the original site of the National Martyrs' Cemetery. The inscription on the memorial stone mentions that the place was the cemetery of the martyrs between 1945 and 1972. The graves were relocated in 1972 to provide for an elaborate Mother of Albania monument. However, the marker here serves to remind visitors of the historical significance of the location.

To the right of this rock memorial is the Monumental Tomb of the Frashëri Brothers. The memorial features the bronze busts and graves of three of Albania's most revered 19th-century intellectual and political leaders. The three brothers, Abdyl, Naim and Sami were key figures of the Albanian National Awakening that helped to lay the cultural and political foundation for Albania’s independence from the Ottoman Empire.

The Commonwealth War Graves is a memorial honouring 48 identified casualties from WWII. The red marble obelisk in the centre contains a plaque honouring the servicemen whose bodies were never found or whose graves could not be marked, stating: "Their glory shall not be blotted out.". The small green plaque attached to the metal fence on the right is the official Commonwealth War Graves Commission (CWGC) sign used globally to indicate that a cemetery contains protected service graves.

Another notable monument in the Grand Park is the DEBATIK Monument, a historical stone obelisk commemorating the founding of DEBATIK - The United Boys Members of the Anti-Fascist Communist Fans. Formed on February 10, 1942, it was a clandestine, illegal anti-fascist youth organization composed of children and teenagers who actively resisted the Axis occupation of Albania during World War II. The group's history later inspired a highly celebrated 1954 Albanian film also titled Debatik.

The highlight of the Grand Park is Liqeni Artificial i Tiranës - the artificial lake of Tirana. The irregularly shaped water body covers nearly 55 hectares. Surrounding the lake are well-maintained walking, jogging, and cycling paths that encourage outdoor activities, providing panoramic vistas of water and greenery.

Being a holiday, the lake area and the park, in general, had become busy. There are extensive green spaces for picnics and get-togethers, recreational facilities, cafes, restaurants and a botanical garden. The role played by these features to improve environmental quality cannot be over stressed.

I was much impressed by the acoustics of the 1300-seater, outdoor stadium style Tirana Amphitheatre. The decades old amphitheatre underwent a massive facelift in 2018. It now serves as a major public cultural hub hosting open-air concerts, theatre plays, festivals, and cinematic screenings. The venue is officially named "Teatri Mirush Kabashi", in honour of the legendary Albanian theatre and cinema actor, Mirush Kabashi.

I came across a freestanding cast iron garden fountain near the amphitheatre, Victorian in style, where I quenched my thirst and splashed some cold water on the face and nape of my neck before starting the two plus kilometre walk back to the accommodation.

Along the way I saw the Woodrow Wilson Statue, a bronze monument located in the Wilson Square. The Albanians have much to thank the 28th President of the United States for. President Wilson vetoed the plan to balkanise Albania at the 1919 Paris Peace Conference that followed WWI. The monument was erected to revere and honour the President who defended Albania's independence and helped preserve its territorial borders.

Another interesting memorial I came across on the walk back is the communist-era stone marker with an inscription. It is a historical site where the Nushi family harboured communist partisans and coordinated resistance activities during WWII.

The heat was overbearing and I was happy to be back in the cozy confines of the apartment. It was time for web check-in for the flight to Athens and packing for the early morning departure.

Balkan Experience - Greece & Albania - Day Trip To Berat, Albania - 4 Sep 2026

I opted for a tour outside of Tirana this day. I weighed the various options available through the GetYourGuide site. Finally, I pitched on a tour of Berak and its neighbourhoods with a short stopover at the scenic Belshi Lake. The tour operator, Smart Tour Albania, sent me precise instructions for the pickup. Fortunately, it was less than 200 meters from my apartment.

The pickup was scheduled for 9.15 am and the bus arrived on time. However, I was slightly confused if this was the bus I was meant to board, because the name of the tour operator was nowhere on the bus. Noel, the guide, explained that they rent buses on a daily basis and hence, the name of the tour operator was not on it. When I queried why he could not place a placard on the windshield of the bus he said that he would have to carry it around with him for every trip! Lackadaisical, surely.

There were multiple pickup points within Tirana city. The last pickup was at 10 am. In about three quarters of an hour thereafter we reached the karst lake located in the heart of Belshi town. The lake covers an area of roughly 27 Ha with a maximum depth of 18 meters.

The lake is ringed by local cafés, restaurants, a lakeside boardwalk, and rolling hills. Pedal boats are available for rental too. The town is popular for a short stopover on day trips to Berat from Tirana or Durres. The group was given 40 minutes to grab some coffee and snacks and use the toilet in one of the cafes.

The region where Belshi is situated is famous for the Dumre karst plateau, which features more than 80 small, mirror-like natural lakes surrounded by gentle hills. Historically, it is believed that human habitation in the area date back to the Illyrian and Byzantine periods. Belshi was even thought of as an alternative location for the future capital of Albania.

When the group was back in the bus after the break in Belshi, Noel began his commentary with a fairly detailed account of Albania. He set the historical background with the Illyrian settlements dating as far back as 10 century BC. Then followed the contributions of Skanderbeg, Byzantines, Ottomans, the only King Albania ever had and the communist regime. Of the 3.1 million population, over 1 million live in Tirana, leading to massive traffic logjams.

The situation in Durres, the second largest city in Albania, is similar too. Therefore, he said, that a subway rail network is being put in place between Tirana, Durres and Tirana International Airport, which is likely to be commissioned in the next 6 months. There was a time when Albania had the best railway network in the Balkans. However, the chaos that followed the downfall of communism saw the decay and complete dismantlement of the railway network.

The months of August and September are vacations months with schools and colleges closed. In the next fortnight they will return putting additional pressure on the roads and public transport. Albanians are a non-Slavic people and they speak Albanian. Nearly 10 million Albanians live outside the country, over three times the number within.

In all of its history, Albania had had only one king, between 1912 and 1919. He was so unpopular that it is said that he survived more than 500 assassination attempts - second only to Fidel Castro. However, he survived them all, left the country and died of lung cancer in France at the age of 65. His remains were brought back to Albania after the communist regime had run its full course.

Albania had oil resources and their exploitation began with Chinese assistance in 1971. However, with the collapse of Communism, the refining capacity also folded up. Now crude is exported and costly oil products are imported. The cost of fuel in the pumps is over 2€ per litre.

During the repressive regime of Enver Hoxha, all religions were banned, religious institutions destroyed and the religious were persecuted. Professing any religion had become sin! While it was a Christian country during the Byzantine period, Islam became the major religion during Ottoman rule. As of now 51 percent are Sunni Muslims.

The Berat Castle is a massive hilltop fortress, built on a rocky hill 700 feet above the Osum River. The original of the Castle dates back to the 4th century BC with major expansions during the Roman, Byzantine, and Ottoman eras. For a fortress so old, it is indeed surprising that hundreds of residents still live inside the walls in historic stone houses. The Castle is reachable via a steep 15-minute walk; an alternative is a short taxi ride.

Noel gathered the group near the massive sculpture of Emperor Constantine's head. He explained the emperor's connection to Albania, besides being the first to declare Christianity as a state religion. Emperor Constantine is connected to Albania through his family's Illyrian roots and the broader historical ties between the Roman Empire's Illyrian provinces and the Western Balkans. Because modern Albanians are widely considered descendants of the ancient Illyrians, some cultural and historical narratives claim Constantine as part of an ancestral Albanian legacy.

Next, we walked up to the awesome church of St. Mary of Blachernae, a Byzantine-era Albanian Orthodox church in Berat. It is believed that the church was built on the foundations of a ruined 5th century church that existed at the same place. What we see if the church has its foundations in the 13th century.

It contains impressive frescoes and icons on its interior walls and ground from the 16th century. The paintings that date from the 16th century were mostly produced by Nicholas Onufri, the son of Onufri. A room beside the main chapel used to have a water source, which has now dried up.

What took my breath away within the castle complex is the Onufri Iconographic Museum located in the former Byzantine Church of the Assumption.

The last restoration of the church had been in 1797 and everything one sees inside today hasn’t changed much since the 19th century. The Museum holds over 200 objects of art, icons and liturgical items that date between the 14th century to the 20th. The collection has been brought together from several churches and monasteries of the region.

Above the entrance to the church is an icon and Greek inscriptions. There are icons painted by renowned Albanian iconists as well as anonymous painters. Liturgical items bearing the signature of Albanian silversmiths of various times, and Cathedral woodcarvings crafted by masters of the early 19th century are all on display.

Worthy of extra special mention is the iconostasis of the cathedral of the Dormition of St Mary, created in 1807. It is indeed a supreme piece of the Albanian woodcarving. The iconostasis decorations feature some Baroque-style features and principles; a dominant and distinctive trend of churches built in the Balkans during the 18th and 19th centuries.

There are quite a few viewpoints from perches in the Berat Castle. The one from the bastion is awesome. Berat is famous for its two historic neighbourhoods - Mangalem and Gorica - which face each other across the Osum River like separated twins. Berat Castle is on the Mangalem side, located as it is on the northern side of the river.

This is the iconic Ottoman quarter featuring stacked white houses with cascading, symmetrical windows that earned Berat the title "City of a Thousand Windows". Located on the southern bank is Gorica, the traditional Christian quarter featuring distinct hillside architecture and connects to Mangalem via the famous arched Gorica Bridge.

Near the viewpoint there were small stalls set up by locals selling things like honey, olive oil, fruits like plums, grapes, peach, drinks like raki and ouzo and local handicrafts. After the Castle visit the group was dropped off for lunch and to lounge for about two and half hours.

Noel recommended a restaurant for traditional Albanian food. When I reached there, I found almost the entire group and some more at the restaurant. I ordered a meat moussaka with Fanta. The order took some time materialising on the table. However, it was well worth the wait. The moussaka tasted out of the world.

After the feast I roamed around, mostly in the Mangalem neighbourhood, making sense of historic relics. The drive back to Tirana lasted a bit over two hours. Even though the commentary wasn't great, Noel was good company.

He kept yearning for Albania's admittance into the EU. He thinks that is going to be deliverance for the Albanian people. I told him to look back on the experience of Romania and Hungary, where the entry into the EU fold turned out to be a harsh reality of rising costs and stagnant wages, pushing more people over into an economic abyss.