96 hours in Seoul, South Korea – 26 May 2026

It was to be a relatively lighter day after two days of hectic activity. I left the accommodation later than usual because of that as well as to avoid the peak metro traffic. A service with one transfer took me to the  Myeongdong station. From the metro exit I walked to the Namsan cable car station, of which the last 400 meters turned out to be quite steep.

The N Seoul Tower was partially visible from the cable car station. Being a senior citizen I had to pay just the child fare of 11,500 KRW for a return trip. The cable car station was quite crowded and the wait for the transport promised to be long as there were only two cars which went back and forth on two tracks. The cable car began its operation in 1962, transferring passengers from the foot of the mountain to the base of the tower.

When my turn finally came for the cable car ride, I was dismayed by the cloudy day and the poor views it afforded.  Exiting from the docking area of the Tower I climbed a few steep steps and came to the Lock Bridge leading to the N Seoul Tower. Its railings and fences were covered with "padlocks of love," where visitors will feel the weight and importance of love.

I came across people speaking many languages there, but the one thing in common was love, which showed on their faces, gestures and the poses for photos. Love could be seen in the air, so to say. The increasing volume of tourists translates also to a greater number of padlocks hanging on the fences of the bridge and base of the tower, where there are seven tree-shaped frames.

This place has now become a popular date spot for couples. Like the Pont Neuf bridge in Paris, couples head to the tower to lock their "padlock of love" onto the railing and to dream that their love will last to the very end. I noticed a signage which said that old locks will be removed and kept in safe custody for a year, after which it will be disposed off. 

Besides, boxes are provided in many places to dispose off the keys of locks placed on the fences. This is to ensure that people don't throw them away somewhere in the Namsan Park, thereby harming the environment. High visibility thanks to TV dramas, entertainment programs featuring movie stars and travel guidebooks, the N Seoul Tower has become a must-visit spot for travelers to Seoul.

People flock in the observation platform near the N Seoul Tower to enjoy cool, fresh breeze blowing across Namsan Mountain, a respite from the hot and humid weather. The Namsan Park located at the base of Namsan Mountain is the largest civic park in Seoul. This is a space where people can enjoy nature within the city and hike the various trails within the park.

I did not buy a ticket to go to the observation deck of the tower as it was cloudy. I had looked forward to the panoramic views of the city, but was denied by the weather. Instead, I sat close to an observation deck and ate a meal of fried chicken, French fries, garlic bread and coleslaw.

I didn't have to wait much for the return cable car ride. From the level at which I had bought the ticket for the cable car ride I 'discovered' the Oreumi elevator. The steep funicular ride to the level of the road is free. I wished I had known about it earlier, instead of having burnt the soles of my feet. From the bottom of the funicular I decided to walk all the way to the Dongdaemun Design Plaza (DDP), a good hour away.

Fortunately, while the weather denied me the views from the N Seoul Tower, it was my assist in the long walk. Besides the weather, flawless sidewalks, pedestrian crossings and orderly traffic made the walk enjoyable and not as arduous as I thought it would be. On the way, I dropped by at "The Twosome Place", a chain of cafes in Korea, for a cup of coffee. The break refreshed and gave me fresh legs for the rest of the walk.

When I reached the DDP I was blown away by the futuristic facade. The massive structure is an urban attraction. I walked in through the entrance doors expecting a hefty fee to take a round of the facility. I was told that entrance fee is only leviable if you want a roof walk to walk along the newly expanded 652-meter DDP rooftop and enjoy a 360-degree panoramic view of Dongdaemun and the Seoul skyline. The roof tour program offers a unique way to experience the city from above.

The DDP cultural complex connects design and culture through exhibitions and events. It showcases new products and trends while sharing creative values through engaging experiences. One of the ongoing exhibitions was the Keykney illustrations. I had never heard of this at all before. At the exhibition I came to know that Keykney is the pseudonym of a Korean illustrator, who provides comfort and laughter through his impromptu works. His works are filled with humor and live, working as a stress buster for everyday life since 2018.

From the DDP I took a metro ride to the premises of the National Museum of Korea, which is the flagship museum of Korean history and art in South Korea. Since its establishment in 1945, the museum has been committed to various studies and research activities in the fields of archaeology, history, and art, continuously developing a variety of exhibitions and education programs. The National Museum of Korea houses a vast collection of artifacts from ancient times to the modern era in a wide range of topics, including art and culture.

The outdoor grounds feature pagodas and other stone artworks too large to be on display inside. In addition to galleries with a wide array of national and international pieces, the National Museum of Korea is a stage for a number of cultural activities related to collection, preservation, research and analysis, social training, academic publications, intercultural exchange programs, concerts, and more.

As per the itinerary I had to visit the Han Riverside and experience the calm and uplifting environment there. However, the skies didn't hold much promise and there was forecast for rain. I decided to skip this part of the day's program and return to the accommodation. It was indeed the right decision because it started raining as soon as I got into the metro subway train.

I had about 2500 KRW on the T-money card. I hoped to cash that out in the 7/11 convenience store on the way back to the accommodation. In Japan I had done the same with the Suica card. With that in mind, I walked into the 7/11 store and picked up a can of beer and Korean noodles. At the counter the lady flatly refused saying that the card is already cashed out, which it wasn't. At one point, with customers waiting, I let the matter go and paid for the items in cash. Thus, the balance on the card was lost.

The can of Kloud beer, which had become the norm in Seoul, preceded the dinner which consisted of Korean noodles and some sweet potato. I reconfirmed the cab reservation to leave for the airport at 5 am to take the flight to Ulaanbaatar, before sinking into the bed to rest the fatigued muscles and weary bones. 

96 hours in Seoul, South Korea – 25 May 2026

The previous day I had been hamstrung by the non-availability of the Matrix esim connection. I lost a lot of time seeking out free wifi locations and fading connectivity. Therefore, the restoration of the Matrix esim, thanks to the coordinated efforts of the Matrix team, particularly Rahul Jadhav at the Mumbai airport, I stepped out from the accommodation this morning with a joie de vivre that was missing yesterday.

I started early with the primary purpose of witnessing the much advertised 'Changing of the guards Ceremony' in the Gyeongbokgung Palace. In the excitement, I even got down at a station prior to the one I was to transfer. That lost me some time. However, when I finally reached the neighborhood of the Palace I went to the Isaac Toast outlet near it. As bad luck would have it the eatery was closed. I pared into the Paris Baguette then and had a cup of cappuccino and egg sandwich.

I was well in time for the changing guard ceremony in the Gyeongbokgung Palace. One need not buy a ticket to witness the guard changing ceremony. However, entrance to the Palace grounds entail a 3000 KRW fee. Much to my delight, as a senior citizen, I was given free access when my passport proved my claim. I took a short tour of the Palace grounds to take in the historical and architectural magnificence of the Palace.

The Gyeongbokgung Palace, built in 1395, is the largest and premier royal palace of the Joseon Dynasty. As the political and cultural center of the kingdom, it symbolized the dynasty's founding, Korea's resilience against colonial rule, and a masterpiece of traditional feng shui architecture perfectly integrated with nature. The Palace is built with Bugaksan Mountain at its back and facing out toward the Han River to achieve perfect geomantic harmony.

The iconic two-story banquets hall, the Gyeonghoeru Pavilion, sits on a beautifully landscaped artificial island and remains one of the finest examples of the Joseon-era architecture. The fortunes of the Palace waxed and waned throughout its history. The subsequent restoration serves as a profound emblem of Korean endurance and cultural revival.

The Changing of the Guard Ceremony at Gyeongbokgung Palace is a vibrant, free public reenactment of Joseon Dynasty royal guard rotations, which takes place twice every day at 10:00 AM and 2:00 PM. The duration of the ceremony is about 20 minutes.

In the sweltering heat hundreds of curious visitors milled around a circle in the main courtyard. The ceremony features performers in historically accurate, brightly colored traditional dress marching, to the tune of drums and pipes, with an elaborate description of the ceremony provided by a commentator. After the event visitors line up to take photos with the performers.

From the Palace I walked about 40 minutes, in the tough hot sun to the Bukchon Hanok village. On the way I stopped at a farmers' market and picked up a cup of fresh strawberries and a bottle of strawberry juice. That provided some relief from the rather oppressive heat. The Bukchon Hanok Village is home to hundreds of traditional houses, called hanok, that date back to the 14th century and thereabouts.

The name Bukchon, which literally translates to "northern village," came about as the neighborhood lies north of two significant Seoul landmarks, Cheonggyecheon Stream and Jongno. Today, many of these hanoks operate as cultural centers, guesthouses, restaurants and tea houses, providing visitors with an opportunity to experience, learn and immerse themselves in traditional Korean culture.

As Bukchon Hanok Village is an actual neighborhood with people's homes, visitors are advised to be respectful at all times while looking around. The Bukchon Hanok Village is one of the most visited areas of Seoul. From traditional craft workshops to tea houses hidden inside Hanok homes, this neighborhood has layers. I did spend some time in a tea house and the aromatica hanok. The place was crawling with tourists posing and pouting for that perfect photograph.

From the Bukchon Hanok, the Changdeokgung Palace was only 15 minutes away by foot. The Palace is a UNESCO World Heritage site and the most well-preserved of Joseon's five royal palaces. Built in 1405, it served as the royal residence for the longest period. It is celebrated for integrating exquisite traditional architecture with its natural topography. Again, as a senior citizen I escaped the 3000 KRW entrance fee.

The Palace is a pristine naturalistic landscape containing pavilions, lotus ponds, and a 300-year-old tree. Access to the secret garden requires a separate guided tour ticket. The Changdeokgung Palace was destroyed in the Japanese invasion in 1592 and was rebuilt in 1610. It was the major residence of kings for the next 270 years until Gyeongbokgung Palace was rebuilt in 1867 and served as the de facto primary palace.

I walked around the humongous palace area admitting the various buildings and the purpose for which they were built. Being a National Holiday, owing to Buddhas birthday, couples in traditional attire accompanied by professional photographers could be seen diligently going through elaborate settings with and without props.

The oppressive heat had given way to some cool breeze, and I decided to foot it to the 100-year-old Ikseon-dong Hanok Alley, where the harmony of alleys and over 100 hanok houses exude great charm. It has become a must-visit spot for tourists over the years. One may definitely ask what the difference is between Bukchon Hanok Village and Ikseon-dong. While Bukchon is a traditional, residential neighborhood, Ikseon-dong is trendier with cafes, restaurants, and boutique shops. It is known for its well-preserved traditional Korean houses repurposed into trendy retail outlets.

The narrow streets of Ikseon-dong were overflowing with visitors and tourists. Every cafe, restaurant and retail outlet had enough and more customers to handle. Long waiting lines could be seen outside cafes and restaurants. I was hungry from the long walk the whole morning and I took a seat in a restaurant serving hotpot meals. I ordered a portion of eggplant hotpot and breaded shrimps. While the latter was more of batter, the former was a full meal served with salad and three types of pickles and soup. The waiter told me to pour hot water, served in the tray that held the meal, into the hotpot and stir the rice, eggplant and pork bits thoroughly before feasting on it. The restaurant also served cold brown rice water.

While walking around the hanok complex I came to know that the poor condition of the hanoks had almost led to its complete redevelopment as a modern housing project in 2004. However, sane voices in the Seoul City Planning Commission were heard and a plan was put into action to preserve the hanoks. I walked along the narrow alleys, hoping I had a better appetite to savor the traditional culinary feasts on display and sale. In the end, despite the protuberant belly protesting any further assault on it, I walked into a crowded cafe to savour a delectable portion of homemade tiramisu. Moist and yummy it was, to say the least.

I had to walk off the extra calories mercilessly ingested in the past hour. Hence, I decided to walk from Ikseon-dong to the Cheonggyecheon stream. It was a long, but leisurely, walk that lasted nearly an hour. Along the way to the stream, I came across the Gwangjang Market, which was the first permanent market in Korea. It thrives as a popular tourist destination now. The name Gwangjang means "to gather from afar and keep altogether." The market began as a small trading center that brought in goods from nearby regions but has now grown into a large wholesale market selling a variety of goods, including upholstery, imported goods, groceries, dried fish, traditional goods, and more.

The market has more than 5000 shops and 20,000 employees in an area of 450,000 sq. ft. Approximately 65,000 people visit the market each day. The most popular section of the market is the massive food street, which caters to a wide range of patrons due to the variety of food served there. Besides the food, it has textiles, bedding, handicrafts and lacquerware inlaid with mother-of-pearl. I moved through the market and had a glass of fresh sugarcane juice.

The Cheonggyecheon Stream is an 11-kilometer modern, car-free urban park and promenade running through the heart of downtown Seoul. Restored in 2005 from a buried, polluted overpass, the stream features flat, tranquil walkways, 22 crossing bridges, steppingstones, and waterfalls. It is open 24/7 and is completely free. Access points via stairs and elevators line the route, connecting with several subway lines. People could be seen lounging under the bridges, some with their feet in the quietly flowing waters, experiencing fish massage.

The weather had become more conducive to walk the lovely pedestrian pathways. From the stream I took one of the stairs to the road above and set course for the Myeongdong Market. The ambling walk first took me to the majestic Myeongdong Cathedral, which is the most iconic cathedral in Korea, it being the birthplace for Roman Catholic Church community in Korea. Designated as historic spot No. 258, the Myeongdong Church has significant historical value embedded in its architecture. It is the first brick church in Korea built in Gothic style with a 45m tall bell tower.

The Cathedral Church of Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception, informally known as Myeongdong Cathedral, is a shrine is dedicated to the Blessed Virgin Mary, who was honored as the principal Patroness of Korea by a pontifical decree accorded by Pope Gregory XVI in 1841. The cathedral serves as a community landmark, tourist attraction, and a notable symbol of Catholic Church in Korea. The other notable features in the complex is a grotto to Our Lady and the Familia Chapel. I spent a few minutes in prayer and thanked Our Lady for Her call.

From the cathedral, in a short while, I was swallowed by a humongous sea of humanity, coursing through various streets of the Myeongdong Market. The entire place is chock full of shops, restaurants, cat cafes, photo booths, caricature stalls, beer and fried chicken outlets. It is without a doubt one of Seoul’s most popular night markets. The street food outlets were doing exceptional business.

I had the popular fish cake and a helping of strawberry mochi. My feet were almost falling apart, having walked more that 22,000 steps by then. It was time to get back to the accommodation for some well-earned rest. From the nearest metro station, I took the subway train to one closest to my accommodation. A can of Kloud beer was all that waited before seeking the company of the comfortable bed.

96 hours in Seoul, South Korea – 24 May 2026

I have been used to the availability of the Matrix e-sim to seamlessly connect up with networks abroad since January 2026. I had no problems while travelling in Algeria, Tunisia, Morocco and Japan and while transiting through Vietnam and Malaysia. I found the Matrix sim so convenient that I recharged once again before I left India - a 30 day recharge, including taxes, cost about Rs. 2550.

Yesterday, immediately on arrival at the Incheon International Airport, Seoul the e-sim went live. However, this morning the connection just refused to pick up. I would have to depend on open public networks to navigate and find my way round while I took up the matter with Matrix Mumbai and got it sorted. With this in mind I turned the itinerary around and rescheduled it.

The intention was to visit the City Hall first. Soon as I came out of the Metro exit, I came across the Seoul Anglican Cathedral, which is officially the Cathedral Church of St. Mary the Virgin and St. Nicholas, the mother church of the Anglican Church of Korea. It has glorious Romanesque revival architecture and tranquil grounds.

The cathedral building, built in 1926, symbiotically blends Romanesque stone structures with traditional Korean architectural aesthetics. A historic pipe organ was installed in 1985. The church has 12 stone columns inside, which symbolize the 12 apostles. Intricate mosaic murals of Jesus and beautiful stained-glass windows line the front walls and altar of the church.

The minute I entered the church my eyes fell on a framed photo of Our Lady of Perpetual Succour in one of the chapels. I almost chocked on tears. A visit to the church was not part of my Seoul itinerary. Yet, here is was, heeding the call of Our Lady, as it were. Situations such as these firmly reinforce faith and belief.

As I was leaving the church after some time spent in prayer and thanksgiving, I noticed that worshippers were coming in, possibly because the Sunday service was scheduled in a while. While heading to the exit of the magnificent cathedral the aroma of strong coffee led me to a small cafe in the premises. I sat down to a short break for a cup of Cappuccino and croissant, still thanking Our Lady for the most unexpected audience.

Literally a stone's throw away from the Cathedral, across the road, is the Seoul City Hall, which is the headquarters of the Metropolitan Government. The new building of the City Hall is a striking glass wave design which, to my mind, clashed with the historic 1926 Renaissance-style Old City Hall sitting just beside it. The complex houses municipal offices, a public library, and the Eco Plaza. Being a public holiday, guided tours of the historic and modern buildings were not available. The tours require advance reservation, though.

One of the features of Seoul is its outdoor libraries. The Outdoor Libraries are innovative, open-air reading spaces operated by the city where nature meets culture. The city provides curated books, beanbags, floor seating and reading lanterns. There are three outdoor libraries across Seoul, that are easily accessible by public transport.

Right in front of the City Hall is one of the largest of the reading spaces. It is like a communal living room and features a music stage and innovative seating. It is a pointer to the country's emphasis on social bonding, education and involvement of the family in building societal values.

The Myeongdong Market is less than a kilometre from the City Hall. on the way to the market is the Namdaemun, a.k.a. the Sungnyemun or the South Gate, where I had been to last evening. The Gate had closed for the day last evening. However, I was in luck today. Not only was the Gate open I also got the opportunity to see the changing of the guards and also take a few pictures with the guards.

From the South Gate I walked to the Myeongdong Market to purchase a few things for family and friends. The vibrance of the market that I had experienced last evening was missing. Retail shops were getting ready for business and shoppers were few and far between at that hour.

Not far from the Myeongdong market is the Jogyesa temple, which is one of the most important temples in Korean Buddhism; its origin is traced back to 1910. It is the head temple of the Jogye Order and sits right in the middle of downtown Seoul. Buddha's birthday is a vibrant national holiday in South Korea. The city had turned into a luminous wonderland with streets and temples covered in millions of colorful lotus lanterns. Temples across the country, like the Jogyesa temple, host grand ceremonies.

The temple was beautifully decorated and full to the brim with worshippers. Volunteers ensured that everything is conducted smoothly and in an orderly manner. There was no pushing and shoving; worshipers and visitors moved in queues and ensured that the other was not inconvenienced. The temple is home to some cultural treasures like the giant Lacebark Pine tree and the Chinese Scholar tree, which are both over 500 years old. The main dharma hall is the largest in Seoul. However, due to the large crowds I could get nowhere near the main hall or get a peek inside. I loved the colourful lattices all over the temple.

Not far from the Temple is Insadong, one of the Seoul’s most visited places among foreign travelers. It is often regarded as a living museum in which modern and tradition coexist in a harmonious manner. The district contains historical sites and its roads and alleys are lined with traditional tea houses, restaurants, calligraphy shops, antique shops, art galleries and craft workshops. Insadong shopping offers great collections of exquisite items to choose from, including unique personal ornaments and fashion items created by aspiring designers, and hence, rarely found in other places.

It was time for a hot meal, and I walked into one of the restaurants offering a set meal. Once I went over the menu I not only ordered the set meal but also a portion of shrimp, batter fried. The meal took its time coming and I took my own time relishing and feasting on the delicious portions. Even though the stomach was full I could not resist homemade tiramisu served in a cafe close to the restaurant I had just feasted in. It was so soft and moist that I was tempted to rest for some time there an order another portion. It was glorious, to say the least.

From Insadong I took a long bus ride to visit the Ihwa mural village. It is a popular destination for both locals and international tourists for its murals and scenic setting. From the bus stop it was a steady walk which turned into a steep uphill, with hundreds of steps to climb. It was exhausting especially factoring in the humidity. The evolution of the mural village is quite interesting.

Ihwa-dong, one of Seoul's oldest neighbourhoods, was a decaying suburb designated for demolition, and home to mostly poor families and elderly people. The mural village sits against the old boundary walls of the capital and was a place where refugees squatted after the end of the Korean War in the 1950s, building homes wherever they could. Many residents worked in the nearby garment and textile industries earning subsistence wages.

In the early 2000s the government started an Art Project that brought vitality to the village and brought in tourists to appreciate the murals and seek out bargains of handicrafts. But the influx of tourists and their littering, noise and graffiti made long-term residents of the neighborhood wonder if the changes were for the better. At the request of the residents the number of murals were scaled down to restrict tourist nuisance. I didn't particularly find the village any better than other murals sites like the ones I visited in Bristol, UK and Iceland. I walked right up to the Naksan Park, which is the uppermost reach of the Ihwa village. It is a scenic hillside park with its panoramic city views and historic stone walls.

Another rather long bus ride and I came to Gangnam and the K-Star Road, which is a popular K-pop themed street in the affluent area of Gangnam. Stretching a full 1 km the K-Star Road is famous for its 18 "GangnamDol" bear statues representing iconic K-pop groups like BTS, EXO, and Girls' Generation. The GangnamDols are life-sized, human-scale bear statues decorated with the symbolic images and signatures of famous K-pop artists.

The street serves as an entryway to Seoul's entertainment district, where several major agency offices are located nearby, including JYP and Cube Entertainment. It is also known as the "Luxury Road of Cheongdam," as the street is lined with high-end designer flagships and upscale cafes.

The last visit of the day was to the Bongeunsa Temple, which is a thousand-year-old Buddhist sanctuary, originally founded in 794 AD. Situated directly across from the COEX Mall, it offers a serene, traditional retreat amidst the city's modern skyscrapers.

The temple is famous for its towering 23-meter stone Maitreya Buddha statue. Just as in the Jogyesa temple, this temple too was swarming with worshippers on the day of Buddha's birthday. The main hall of the temple, the Panjeon Hall, is the oldest building on site, housing over 3,400 sacred woodblock scriptures and intricate calligraphy.

With milling crowds, it was impossible to get a steady public Wi-Fi connection. While I was struggling to fathom a return to my accommodation, I met a couple of Andhrites who were on a conducted tour of the city. They were lodged in the Westin, close to the COEX Mall. They suggested that I use the free Wi-Fi of the hotel to establish the return route. That's what I did finally and managed to get back to the accommodation. The lack of proper net connection cost me plenty this day in terms of time. Matrix has promised to investigate the matter and resolve it by the next day.