In the Land Of The Rising Sun - Osaka to Hiroshima - 1 May 2026

With the thought of having to take the 7.56 am Shinkansen journey from Osaka to Hiroshima, it was natural that sleep would suffer. I was ready to leave the hotel by 5.30 am, knowing fully well that I would be in Shin-Osaka station for the Shinkansen train in less than 30 minutes. It would also me a long wait for the train. I preferred that to lying on the bed agonising about what all could go wrong in the interim.

The room in Sosetsu Grand Fresca is smallish, but comfortable. Everything provided for and extremely neat and clean. Another feature is that a wide variety of toiletries are provided free of cost which ranged from hairbands to sunscreens to shower caps to bath pods to hair care and much more. There is no restriction on what you pick up or how many. The stand is regularly restocked.

Check-in and check-out are managed using machines. I slid the room key into the slot of the machine and the machine thanked me for the stay and notified that the checkout is successful. As simple as that. Fortunately, there was no rain, although evidence of overnight rain was everywhere. I took the metro from Nippombashi, changed after one stop and reached Shin-Osaka station in less than 20 minutes.

I made my way to the Shinkansen enclosure and got through the gates using the reservation tickets I had taken in Osaka. From the information board I realised that my train is due on platform 21. With more than 90 minutes for the train I bought a sandwich and potato chips for breakfast, which I had in the waiting room. Special announcements were on, thick and fast, about the holiday rush for the Golden Week.

I had received a message from the accommodation in Hiroshima that the check-in would be at 1600 hrs and that I could drop off the luggage in the room by noon. That didn't suit me to utilise the day adequately. Therefore , I requested special permission to lodge the baggage after 10 am, which was granted. Some relief before reaching Hiroshima.

Needless to say, the train was bang on time and I boarded the designated car and took my window seat. Soon the train was shooting through the countryside with brief stops in Kobe and Yokohama. The distance to Hiroshima of 330 km was done in 90 minutes. I stepped out on to the platform 2 minutes ahead of time. I had clear instructions from the accommodation on the bus to take and where to get off. I followed the instructions precisely and dropped off the luggage in the room, which was not yet ready.

I took out the planned itinerary for the day and started the walk to Hiroshima's Peace Memorial Park, which is one of the most prominent features of the city. The road which which to it is known as the Peace Boulevard. There are many statues and memorial along the way. One such is the Folding Hands Memorial, which is a tribute to the medical staff that were affected by the A bomb and those who helped in the aftermath despite the foreseen aftereffects. The handrails of the Peace Bridge were designed by Isamu Noguchi, an American sculptor and named it after the Japanese word 'to build'.

I came upon the large park of over 120,000 sqm with its trees, lawns, and walking paths after the Peace Bridge. The massive Park is in stark contrast to the surrounding downtown area. Before the bombing, the area of what is now the Peace Park was the political and commercial heart of the city. For this reason, it was chosen as the bomb's target. Four years to the day after the bomb was dropped, it was decided that the area would not be redeveloped but instead devoted to peace memorial facilities.

The park's main attraction is the Peace Memorial Museum, which poignantly portrays the history of Hiroshima, the dropping off the A-bomb and it's aftermath. At the entrance fee counter I claimed senior citizen fee reduction and the lady said, you look young, show me your id. Not a bad start to the day! The depiction of human stories, the devastation caused by the wanton destruction to cause untold suffering over generations are all there in photographs, paintings, articles, artefacts, clothing and personal effects. I was moved to tears in the museum and, may I tell you, I was not alone. Only man can be as cruel.

The Cenotaph for the A-Bomb Victims is an arched tomb for those who died because of the bomb, either because of the initial blast or exposure to radiation. Below the arch is a stone chest holding a register of these names, of which there are over 220,000. People line up and, in turn, payment their tribute there. Some bring wreaths, some flowers, some even messages.

The Flame of Peace in Hiroshima, lit on August 1, 1964, burns continuously in the Peace Memorial Park. The Flame was designed by Kenzo Tange and it symbolizes a protest against nuclear weapons and serves as a memorial to those who died in the 1945 bombing. The flame is intended to remain lit until all nuclear weapons are abolished. The Pond of Peace encircles the Cenotaph for the A-bomb Victims and the Flame of Peace suggesting that the monument is floating.

An extremely poignant memorial in the park is the Children's Peace Monument. It is a monument to commemorate Sadako Sasaki and the thousands of child victims of the atomic bombing of Hiroshima. Sadako Sasaki, a young girl, died of leukemia on October 25, 1955 from radiation of the atomic bomb. She had to endure indescribable pain as her parents were too poor to buy her painkillers. Stories such as these make you wonder how humans can be so cruel, generation after generation.

The A-Bomb Dome, also known as the Hiroshima Peace Memorial, is what remains of the former Prefectural Industrial Promotion Hall. The building served as a location to promote Hiroshima's industries. When the bomb exploded, it was one of the few buildings to remain standing, and remains so today. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the A-Bomb Dome is a tangible link to Hiroshima's unique past.

Every year on the anniversary of the bomb, a ceremony is held at the park. Speeches are made, wreathes are laid at the Cenotaph, and a moment of silence is observed at 8:15 am, the precise moment of detonation.

At the time of my visit hectic work was on, with the help of volunteers to deck up the grounds to celebrate the Hiroshima Flower Festival, one of Japan’s largest annual street festivals. It runs from May 3–5 during the Golden Week. Main celebrations are held along Peace Boulevard and attracts over 1.6 million visitors with parades and performances, blending celebration with a message of peace.

Hiroshima castle, sometimes referred to as the Carp Castle, was the residence of the Daimyo feudal lord and was originally constructed in the 1590s. Much of it was dismantled in the Meiji era, and what remained was largely destroyed by the A-bomb. The main tower was rebuilt in 1958; it is a replica that stands now.

Within the castle grounds is the Gokoku-jinja Shrine, founded in 1868 to enshrine 78 Hiroshima feudal lords who died in the Boshin War. This is another structure rebuilt after the A-bomb. The shrine is one of the most popular shrines in the Chugoku region, with 600,000 visitors on the first three days of the New Year.

There are bronze statues of carps swimming up a waterfall on either side of the main shrine. It is believed that rubbing their noses and wishing for personal goals, success with a difficult challenge, good luck and success in business, family wellbeing, happy marriage and fulfillment in love will make it happen.

Slightly over a km away by foot is the Shukkien garden. Entry is free for senior citizens. History of the garden dates back to 1620 and displays traditional aesthetics of Japanese Gardens. Valleys, mountains and forests are represented in miniature in the garden's landscapes.

The entire garden is connected by a path which winds around the pond at the center of the garden. The path passes through all of Shukkeien's various miniaturized sceneries. Connecting two sides of the pond is a small bridge from where one can feed carps. Some are massive and colourful.

I walked back to the accommodation through Nagarekawa, which is the premier entertainment and nightlife district of Hiroshima. It features numerous restaurants, neon-lit bars, clubs, and hostess bars, making it the hub of Hiroshima’s nightlife.

In the evening I walked along the Hondori shopping arcade, bustling with locals and tourists alike. Restaurants and cafes were busy. I was told that I must try Okonomiyaki in Hiroshima. The place recommended for it was the Okonomimura. It is a four storey building with numerous tiny restaurants. At the time of my visit evet restaurant was busy and there were patient souls waiting. Okonomiyaki is labelled the Japanese pizza and its literal meaning is "fry as you like". Battery, plenty of cabbage, meat and seafood, noodles et al cooked in a teppan griddle. Visitors are encouraged to try their hand at making the dish too.

I had a hot bowl of Ramen with chicken in a small restaurant with a glass of draft beer. The meal was polished off with two pieces of Karaage, the Japanese fried chicken.

In the Land Of The Rising Sun - Kyoto to Osaka - 30 April 2026

Starting early has its advantages. The streets are virtually empty, and the public transport is not crowded. I took a short bus ride to Kyoto Station for the train ride to Osaka. As I had bought the train ticket the previous evening I went in the general direction of the platforms and asked one of the gate wardens for assistance. He told me to get to platform 6 for the 6.31 am rapid train to Osaka. I had just a minute, but I made it to the train and got a seat for the journey of 30 mts.

The train was fast, but not noiseless like the Shinkansen. Many commuters were sleeping. One directly in the opposite seat was nodding so vigorously that I worried if his head would fall off. Next to him was a earphone, which I thought he had misplaced. A couple of stations later a lady occupied the vacant seat. She woke up the young man and asked if the earphone was his. He said it wasn't and the lady kept it in the empty space between them. It is famously said that in Japan one will not lose anything. What one loses one can find through a lost and found booth at almost all stations. I trusted that the earphone would find its rightful owner sooner rather than later.

Upon reaching Osaka, I hopped off and sought Help to move to the metro station. On the way to the metro, I came across ticket counters. Again, it was quite early in the morning and hence, the counters were free of customers. I went to one of the counters and immediately the staff got up and bowed and greeted me. I requested for an 8 am train ticket from Osaka to Hiroshima. He looked up in his computer and apologized that the train was completely reserved. However, he said he could get me a reservation for the 7.56 train! That is what minutes make to the schedule in Japan.

I took the metro line to the hotel where I had the reservation in. When I got to the hotel the girl at the reception told me that I had reached the wrong hotel! Where I was and where I should have been belonged to the same group of hotels, I had reached the Fresca Inn whereas I should have gone to Grand Fresca. Disappointed I was for the silly mistake I had made. However, the girl told me that either I could take the metro or walk to the Grand Fresca as it was not too far away. The drizzle was very light and therefore, I decided to walk.

When I reached the right hotel, I was told that I would be able to check-in only at 3 pm, as per policy. But they agreed to hold my suitcase in storage and give me an umbrella to do whatever sightseeing I wanted to do till the check-in time. Considering that it was drizzling and the skies were grey and rather drab I recast my plans for the city. The 300-meter Umeda Sky Building, Tsutenkaku Tower and Abeno Harukas, the two tall towers, were pruned from the day's itinerary. Armed with the transparent umbrella I walked to the metro, just a few minutes away from the hotel.

From the station where I got off to visit Osaka Castle, it was a walk of roughly 2 km. In Japan, on a sightseeing trip, one should be prepared to do at least 15,000 steps every day. I have been averaging over 18,000 steps per day. On the way to the Osaka castle, I came across a site where there used to be large, elevated warehouses, called the Hoenzaka warehouse, built in the 5th century AD. In close proximity to the reconstructed warehouse is the Osaka Museum of History and the office of Japan Broadcasting Corporation, NHK.

The grounds of Osaka Castle are huge and the park covers a total area of 105.6 hectares. It houses the Osaka Castle Museum, the Nishinomaru Garden and the Music Hall. It is free admission to walk most of the park, with admission fee for the garden and the Castle. The original castle was completed in 1583 and was attacked and destroyed several times, during WWII air raids and factional fights. The present castle is a concrete reconstruction finished in 1995. The main tower of Osaka Castle is an awesome sight, but knowing that it is a total reconstruction takes the sheen off somewhat.

While walking back to the metro station from the Osaka Castle I made a short detour to the memorial built in 1936 for schoolteachers and children who lost their lives in a typhoon a couple of years before. Teh Education Tower was publicly funded and now serves as a memorial to those their lives in subsequent disasters too.

From the Osaka Castle I made my way to the Shitennoji Temple, which is one of Japan's oldest temples and the first ever to be built by the state. It was founded in 593 by Prince Shotoku, who supported the introduction of Buddhism into Japan. Although the temple's buildings burned down several times over the centuries, they were always carefully reconstructed to reflect the original 6th century design.

The outer temple grounds are free to enter, but admission to the inner precinct is paid. In the pebble-covered courtyard of the inner precinct stands a five-storied pagoda that can be entered and ascended. In the Main Hall Prince Shotoku is enshrined as a statue of Kannon.

In the santum sanctorum a senior monk was conducting ceremonial prayers accompanied by chanting of two junior monks. I was surprised that visitors were not asked to take off their footwear. I stood around in complete awesome of the proceedings, at the end of which the faithful were individually blessed by the senior monk.

From the Temple I made my way by foot to the Kuromon Market. Along the way my stomach protested the lack of activity since the previous evening. I spotted a restaurant and walked in. I ordered skewered salted shrimp grill and a plate of mutton and rice. The food was average and the shrimp was heavily salted. Once the meal was done, I resumed the walk to the Market. In a few hundred meters the smell of fresh cooking assailed me.

The Kuromon Ichiba Market in Osaka is a historic, 170-meter-long covered market known as "Osaka's Kitchen". Featuring roughly 150 shops, it is a premier foodie destination specializing in fresh seafood (sashimi, grilled scallops, sea urchin), wagyu beef skewers, and Takoyaki. It offers a vibrant, albeit crowded, street food experience. The entire floating population of Osaka seemed to be there. The array on offer was exceptional. I regretted having gone to the restaurant. I should have waited and feasted on what was on offer in the market.

I saw Takoyaki being prepared fresh in one of the stalls of the food court and ordered a portion of 6 pieces. Takoyaki is a popular street food that originated from Osaka in the 1930s. These savory, golf ball-sized snacks feature a crisp, golden-brown batter exterior with a soft, gooey center filled with diced octopus, pickled ginger, and green onion. They are topped with savory sauce, mayonnaise, green seaweed and bonito flakes, served in a boat shaped plate. It looked so appetizing and yummy that I immediately started eating it. It was so hot, with trapped heat inside the ball shaped batter, that it burnt the food pipe!

After walking around the market for a while, marvelling at the various preparations and retail shops I got back to the hotel and checked in at the appointed time. The Hotel had asked for an additional 1000 JPY for check-in at 2 pm! After unpacking the bags, I rested for a while.

It was just a short walk from the hotel to the Dotonbori waterfront - must say that the hotel location is awesome. The waterfront promenade is impressive with its beautiful neon lights reflected on the water's surface. Th Dotonbori River, the face of Osaka, flows through the heart of the city. The extension of the promenade is underway along the river as part of a project aimed at positioning Osaka as the "Water City."

Many prominent stores like the Don Quijote have riverside entrances too. It also boasts a large Ferris wheel. The dock on the waterfront is popular for sightseeing boat cruises along the Dotonbori River. At the time of visit the river cruise boats were doing brisk business with long queues of passengers waiting for their turn. The cruise guides try and make it as entertaining for their customers as is humanly possible.

Visitors and river cruise boats stop at Osaka's iconic Dotonbori Glico Sign, or "Running Man", first installed in 1935. This famous Osaka landmark symbolises health, victory, and the city’s energetic spirit. It advertises Glico caramel, which promised enough energy to run 300 meters. It represents resilience, having been updated six times to become a popular, LED-lit photo spot.

The Dotonbori Street represents Osaka's premier, vibrant entertainment and nightlife. The street is known for its dazzling neon lights, iconic 3D signages, and dense concentration of restaurants. Naturally, it is a magnet for tourists and is bustling of activity. The numerous restaurants, cafes and stores have devised unique way of drawing customers to its doors.

A signage that caught my attention was the warning that it is prohibited to smoke in the entire city of Osaka. A violation attracts a fine of 1000 JPY. The entire street is meant for pedestrians only. Even bicycles are prohibited. I ambled along for hours quietly taking in the scenes, the excitement of the tourists, the animated restaurant and cafe ushers, appreciation of customers trying out the delicacies of Osaka culinary bouquet and Youtubers capturing the vibrant scenes on their devices.

Before returning to the hotel, I tried out a vanilla and chocolate ice cream. The cone tasted very different from what I had experienced before this. From a fruit shop I picked up some cherries before retiring for the night. A tightly packed day in Osaka.

In the Land Of The Rising Sun - Kyoto - 29 April 2026

The weather forecast for the day was cloudy, but with no hint of rain. I left the hotel early to beat the crowd. When I was a bit confused about the bus stop to go to Kiyomizu Dera, I requested directions from a person I on the ROB. He asked me to follow him and pointed out a pagoda in the far distance and said that that's where the Temple is. He jokingly, I think, told me to walk there! I thanked the gentleman and waited for the bus. I find that the older people are friendlier and more forthcoming in Japan.

I had to walk up a fair bit from the bus stop to reach the Kiyomizu Dera. The road leading to Kiyomizu Temple is filled with a selection of shops and restaurants on both sides. A host of souvenirs, from traditional to whimsical, can be found along the street. The local Kyoto specialty of nama-yatsuhashi, a triangle of mochi filled with various flavors, is prominently advertised. Restaurants serve everything from simple bowls of soba or Udon to more elaborate set meals. I also came across the doors of a Japanese fortune teller, who promised his services in English too.

The Kiyomizu Dera is also known as the Pure Water Temple and is on the list of UNESCO World Heritage Sites. The temple is located on top of a hill. One of the temple’s most notable features is the wooden stage in the main hall, which rises 13 meters above the hill.

During the spring period, this vantage point offers an amazing view of the cherry blossoms in spring, as well as of the city beyond. This wooden porch is stunning for its impressive construction. The porch comprises 168 wooden pillars and over 400 cedar floorboards, all fitted together without the use of nails, relying instead on a unique interlocking joint system.

Found near the main hall of the temple complex is the Benkei Iron Challenge. Visitors attempt to lift massive, ancient iron staffs (tetsubo) and iron clogs (geta) said to belong to the legendary 12th-century warrior monk Saitō no Musashibō Benkei. One of the iron staffs weight about 95 kgs. While most visitors manage the clogs and the smaller staff, the bigger one beats everybody. Legend says that lifting the staff brings good fortune, prosperity, and the strength of the warrior.

Another attraction of this temple is the Otowa Waterfall, where the waters are divided into three separate streams. Visitors can use the cups provided at the base of the waterfall to drink from them. Each of the streams is believed to have a different effect such as bringing success, love and longevity. One is considered greedy if one drinks from all the streams.

Further along in the grounds is a three-storied pagoda. Called Koyasu Pagoda, it is believed that a visit to this place will give you a safe and fairly easy childbirth. A dragon can be seen on the roof of the pagoda and is said to protect the structure from fire.

All in all, a fantastic experience. I was happy that I had visited it so early. Crowds had started building up. I walked about a km and more to Gion, which is Kyoto's most famous and historic geisha district. Famed for its traditional wooden machiya townhouses, upscale restaurants, and teahouses, it is the best place to catch a glimpse of geiko (geisha) or maiko (apprentices), normally in the early evening. The houses are called Ochaya and entry is by priority appointment or by membership only.

Widely made known is that it is illegal to forcefully enter the Ochaya or to surreptitiously photograph the Geishas, who are female Japanese performing artists and entertainers. They are trained in traditional Japanese performing arts styles, such as dance, music and singing, as well as being proficient conversationalists and hosts. The mature one is the Geisha, and the apprentice is the Maiko. While historically confused with courtesans (oiran) by foreigners, geisha do not sell sexual intimacy; their role is to entertain and perform.

The Gion Corner is a venue offering performances of traditional arts, including kyomai dance by maiko. Classes in Ikebana, etc are also held here. The Kennin-ji Temple, in the near vicinity, is Kyoto’s oldest Zen temple, known for its tranquil gardens. The temple was constructed in 1202.

Another short walk after eating a piece each of fried chicken and grilled chicken thigh from a Konbini I steamed ahead to the Samurai Ninja Museum, where the legendary worlds of samurai and ninjas came alive. The basic ticket is 4400 JPY for a tour and visit of the Museum. During the tour one can enjoy hands-on unique experiences like wear samurai armor, practice swordsmanship, and practice ninja skills like shuriken throwing.

This museum blends education with excitement and features an impressive collection of authentic Samurai armors, including rare pieces from the Edo period that are over 300 years old. Certificates of authenticity are also in display. One of the most impressive exhibits in the Museum is the Wall of Swords, showcasing a diverse collection of authentic Japanese swords from different eras. Many of these weapons come with fascinating stories of legendary Samurai. The guide even explained the use of the smaller sword by warriors to commit Sepuko harakiri - suicide to maintain honour.

A short bus ride away was the Nijo Castle, which is by various accounts the starkest representation of the power the shogun during the Edo period (1603-1867). It is one of the best-known castles in Japan, due to its historical importance, prominence and the city, and UNESCO World Heritage status. I was late for the entrance - closes at 4 pm and hence, had to give it a skip.

The final sightseeing destination for the day was the Kinkakuji (Golden Pavilion) Zen temple, whose top two floors are completely covered in gold leaf. Formally known as Rokuonji, the temple was the retirement villa of the shogun Ashikaga Yoshimitsu. It was converted into a Zen Temple upon his death in 1408, as per his wishes. It is an impressive structure built overlooking a large pond. It has been rebuilt many times over the centuries. The present structure was rebuilt in 1955.

I took the long bus ride to Kyoto station to enquire about the trains to Osaka and how I could book a Shinkansen train ticket from Osaka to Hiroshima. The information counter at the station and the ticketing counter helped me with both enquiries. I bought a train ticket, valid for one day, for Osaka and got back to the hotel to rest and prepare for the remainder of the trip.