ATM Tour – Rabat to Tangier – Day 5 – 15 January 2026

Going by the experience of the past few days in Morocco, I thought it best to leave post 8.30 am, after a leisurely breakfast. The skies are dark before then. Breakfast in the Dar Yanis accommodation started from 8 in the 'living' room furnished with comfortable sofas and generous cushions. By now, I have been 'hooked on' to Moroccan coffee. I had two cups of strong coffee along with Msemmen, Harsha and the Moroccan pancake called Baghrir, which are a kind of light and fluffy pancakes. I instantly fell in love with it. I had two of them with strawberry jam. Then came the oranges, small but sweet. I was tanked up for the drive to Tangier. Before leaving the accommodation, I walked up to the terrace to see the facilities provided there to relax and enjoy the sun.

Soon it was time for the farewell. The husband and wife who maintained the accommodation had been so friendly and helpful that I had felt at home in Dar Yanis. In fact, the lady told me that two of her daughters are in Oman and they were familiar with Keralites and their nature. Always smiling and, now overloaded with joy thanks to the Moroccan victory on the football field, I felt they were surely a couple of souls I was traveling with through time and space.

While I was walking the short distance through the medina to the parking lot, I was bid goodbye from the city by a complete semicircular rainbow. In a short time, I eased the car on to the road to visit the Lighthouse of Rabat. Just then, the sight of the Martyrs' Cemetery of Rabat, called the Allal Ben Abdellah Cemetery, stunned me. It is a significant and stunning place with over ten thousand graves overlooking the Atlantic Ocean. Established in the early 20th century, it holds the remains of notable figures from Moroccan history including politicians, soldiers, artists, businessmen, generals, and intellectuals.

At the time of my visit to the lighthouse the sun had risen in full glory, shedding the shackles of the grey clouds. Its effect on the thundering waves that crashed on to the promontory housing the Lighthouse of Rabat was a sight to behold. Wave after wave crashed on the pincer like rock formation near the lighthouse that was taking a battering and daring the Ocean to do its best - ala Muhammad Ali.

The lighthouse was commissioned in 1920. It was just me, a colony of seagulls and a couple of cats that enjoyed the awesome symphony there. I had to leave for Tangier. Otherwise, I would have spent more time enjoying the salubrious environment.

The highway to Tangier was four laned most of the route and well carpeted. It was not as good as the motorways but was good enough to take the speed of 120 kph all through. I paid Rs. 765 as toll for the 250 km but was worth it. Along the highway were vast stretches of olive farms and other greenhouse cultivation. A feature I noticed in Morocco is that infrastructure is being augmented for the 2030 World Cup in all major cities to exploit the potential of tourism.

About 60 km short of Tangier, I experienced dense fog for many kms. Maybe it was because of the early morning rain in the densely forested area, I thought. I also presumed that it would affect my program for the day in Tangier. I was wrong. Closer to Tangier bright sunshine broke through and Tangier was bathed in a sea of bright sunlight. The accommodation I had booked, the Villa Adam, was not far from the Tangier city center. Once again, after the calming experience in Dar Yanis in Rabat, the Villa Adam accommodation was superb. Roomy and spacious, the allotted room had an overhung balcony. I had a cup of coffee before getting back into the car to visit the places I had chalked out in advance.

First on the agenda was a visit to Cap Spartel, which lay about 18 km from the Tangier city center. The drive for the most part along the coast is glorious with superb views of the Sea and Ocean. I wanted to stop at each turn to enjoy the view and take photographs. Finally, when I reached Cap Spartel I was blown away by the sights in front of me. I parked near a board which showed the direction of the Mediterranean Sea and the Atlantic Ocean. This is supposedly the place where the Sea meets the Ocean.

A short climb from there and I came to the lighthouse that stands on a promontory, 315 meters above the sea. The lighthouse, that began operating in 1864, was requested for by consular representatives of European powers, alarmed by the numerous shipwrecks occurring off the cape. Located at the southern entrance to the Strait of Gibraltar the beam of the Cap Spartel lighthouse is visible for 30 nautical miles. Opposite Cap Spartel, 44 km to the north, Cape Trafalgar marks the northern entrance to the strait, on the Spanish coast.

The Caves of Hercules are located in Achakar, which is just five kilometres from Cap Spartel. The caves have long been a cornerstone of Tangier and Morocco’s tourism scene. With legendary tales of Hercules interwoven into them, the striking rock formations, and the famous Africa-shaped opening into the Straits of Gibralter, the caves attract thousands of visitors each year.

Archaeologists have traced signs of habitation here as far back as 6000 BCE, making it one of the oldest known sites of human presence in Morocco. Over the centuries, the cave evolved - partly shaped by nature, partly by those who used it for shelter, trade, and resource extraction. The entrance fee to the attraction is quite steep at 80 MAD. It was indeed a shame that may tourists, including I, were turned off by the needlessly high entrance fee.

From the Caves I drove on to explore the famous Tangier Medina. I was fortunate to find a parking slot close to the Church of Saint Andrew, an Anglican church, consecrated in 1905. I found, interestingly, that the church is within the Archdeaconry of Gibraltar. The building was constructed in Moorish architectural style. The belltower, shaped like a minaret, overlooks the adjacent cemetery. Interestingly, there I found the tombstone of Basil Scott, who had been Chief Justice of Bombay from 1908 to 1919. He had been born in Bombay, but had died in Tangier at the age of 67.

I walked from the St Andrews Church, past the Mini Market and emerged at the Grand Socco, which is the romantic entrance to the medina. It is a large, sloping, palm-ringed plaza with a central fountain that stands before the keyhole gate, Bab Fass. The Grand Socco is surrounded by a mosque, a few shops, several banks, half a dozen modest restaurants with covered outdoor seating areas, several cafés and the Cinema Rif. It was once a major market; its cobblestone circle is now the place where newer developments of the city meld into the old medina.

The medina, the top attraction of Tangier, is a labyrinth of alleyways, both commercial and residential. It is contained within the walls of a 15th-century Portuguese fortress. However, considering most other medinas in Moroccan cities, most buildings in the Tangier Medina are actually relatively new. The place is full of travellers’ treasures and offers glimpses of traditional living. Walking through the medina I marked out the Kanzeman restaurant, located near the Petite Socco, for dinner.

Petite Socco was once the most notorious crossroads of Tangier, the site of drug deals and prostitution. Today the facades are freshly painted, tourists abound, and is a wonderful square for people watching over a cup of mint tea. People in traditional, ceremonial robes play festive music and tourists jostle to take photos and videos of their music and dance.

I walked past the Immaculate Conception Church, where I was told that it is not open for worship, to the Terrasse des Paresseux. The aptly named 'Idlers’ Terrace' provides sweeping views of the Tangier port, and, on a really clear day, Gibraltar, it is said. A set of ancient cannons faces the bay, symbolically warding off usurpers, though children can be seen climbing them!

In the immediate vicinity of the Terrace is the Great Mosque of Tangier. Entry to this grand, green-shingled mosque, which at one time housed a Portuguese church, is prohibited for non-Muslims.

It was time to get something into the stomach, as I had skipped lunch. While leaving Dar Yanis in Rabat I was told that I should experience fish preparation in Tangier, as it has the freshest fish in the whole of Morocco. In the Kanzeman restaurant I ordered a fish tajine and a glass of orange juice. The tajine, served with Khobz bread, was superb. The taste of the fish had just the right blend of spice and herbs. I polished it off with generous sips of orange juice. As if that was not enough, I bought a piece of mocca topped puff pastry on the way out of the Medina.

I drove back to the accommodation and rested to prepare for the last phase of the ATM Tour.

ATM Tour – Marrakech to Rabat – Day 4 – 14 January 2026

It was wet; it rained the entire night. The Riad Maison Aicha is in a very good location, located as it is almost at the mouth of the Souq, as it were. The problem is the access to the accommodation. While the small size of the room was manageable, the size of the bathroom was indeed a matter of discomfort. I had a hot shower before packing up the bag. I was ready for breakfast, as committed with Said, at 7.30 am. The breakfast menu everywhere in Morocco is the same, it seemed. Said gave me a glass of orange juice, freshly squeezed, a couple of Msemmen, an omelette and coffee. That filed me up enough.

It was dark at 7.45 am, when I left for the parking lot. The pavement and the roads were wet with puddles of water everywhere. I managed to get to my car without the shoes getting wet and the baggage getting dirty. When I left the city, the traffic was sparse. In less than 30 minutes I hit the motorway to Casablanca. The next 220 km was almost on auto drive. It rained intermittently and I expected the worst for the day. From the motorway to Casablanca, I took the highway to Rabat. The roads in Morocco, at least the tolled motorways and highways are exceptional. In a bit over 4 hours I was in the capital city of Rabat, a distance of 320 km from Marrakech.

The city was completely different from both Casablanca and Marrakech, clean and organised. Indeed, worthy of being a capital. Neatly whitewashed the entire city is in unwavering white decor. The doors, windows and grills are of different colours. Instead of driving to the accommodation, as I normally do, I decided to explore some of the city sights, since some of the attractions were quite far from it. One of the major problems I thought I would encounter in the city is parking. Therefore, I decided to go to the St Peter's Cathedral first, where I expected to park without any problem. In the orderly traffic I didn't have a problem getting to it.

There was ample parking in front of the twin spired church. But I found that only police cars were parked there. None of the police vehicles was manned. I parked there, nevertheless, and asked a passerby if I could use the parking slot. He seemed alarmed. He said, "No, No, Police". I could vaguely catch something about parking where there are blue lines. As I was about to take my car out from where I had parked a police car happened by driven by a young policeman. I asked him for parking directions. In decent English, he told me I could park anywhere I found cars parked and, in a slot, in between. I drove out of the Cathedral premises and soon found a parking slot. I also checked with a passerby and he told me that it's fine to park there. And, I was surprised that there was no parking fee. That done, I walked the short distance to the church.

The St. Peters Cathedral, built between 1919 and 1930, is an art deco Roman Catholic church and is the seat of the Archdiocese of Rabat. The church was open for worship, but was empty. At the entrance, from a chamber, I was greeted by a priest. After knowing from where I was from, he showed me candles and donation envelopes. I told him that I would take the candles later. I took a seat in the first pew and spent many moments in solitude and prayer. Later I bought a candle, lit it at a minor altar and left the church.

From the church, leaving the car where it was parked, I took the long walk to the Bab Rouah Gate. I soon came to the Moulay Hassan Square, formerly known as Pietri Square. Located near the CDG headquarters, Rabat Cathedral, and the central police station, Pietri Square was once home to Rabat's permanent flower market, where people purchased magnificent flower baskets.

The florists were moved to make way for terraces of cafes and other restaurants that have become popular with the people of Rabat. The square now has a braided steel canopy that stands out dressed in yellow. Striking is the mural titled Najma, a project for the Museum Mohamed VI of Modern and Contemporary Art, which opened in 2014. It is an African Modern Art museum. The pieces of art displayed in the premises of the museum are themselves so unique that I spend some time admiring those before walking to the Bab Rouah Gate.

The gate and its adjoining ramparts were finished by 1197. The Arabic name Bab ar-Ruwah, meaning "Gate of the Winds", was possibly a reference to the strong Atlantic winds which batter the city. The entrance archway of the gate today is smaller than it was originally was. From the archway I walked along the rampart wall and came to the Royal Palace of Rabat, the primary and official residence of the King of Morocco.

At the main gate, I was told by the security personnel that I could visit the palace only with an official tour guide. The booking has to be made prior, and that spiked my chances of gaining entry to the palace that day. However, the security guard permitted me a peek into the Palace premises from the massive palace gate and take a few photos. With massive walls encasing the Palace grounds I could not capture anything of significance.

I walked back to where I had parked the car and drove to the Mausoleum of Mohammed V, with the intention of rounding off the city visit with the Hassan Tower. I was guided into a parking slot by a parking lot attendant. As I went through the first gate of the complex, I realised that both the mausoleum and the tower were in the same premises. The Hassan Tower is an incomplete minaret of an incomplete mosque. Commissioned by one of the Caliphs of the 12th century, its building ceased with his death in 1199. The tower was intended to be the largest minaret in the world of the largest mosque of the Muslim world. Instead, the minaret was left standing at a height of 44 meters with 348 unfinished columns of the mosque.

Located across the Hassan Tower is the mausoleum of Mohammed V, which contains the tombs of King Mohammed V and his two sons, late King Hassan II and Prince Abdallah. The mausoleum stands on an elevated platform and is an exceptional example of Moorish architecture and elements.

The dome of the mausoleum chamber is made of mahogany wood with coloured glass. The cenotaph of Mohammed V is carved in white onyx, where his remains were transferred in 1971, with the completion of the mausoleum. Guards in impressive uniforms and spears stand to attention at the four entrances of the mausoleum and another four at the corners inside.

The views of the city of Rabat from the high reaches of the mausoleum complex are awesome. The six laned roads, the twin track modern tramway, the Grand Theatre of Rabat and the iconic 250-meter Mohammed VI Tower with abundant greenery, glorious views of the Bouregreg river and the bridges spanning them can be enjoyed along the walkway abutting manicured and landscaped lawns.

From the mausoleum complex I drove to the accommodation, which is inside the medina. I had very clear instructions from the accommodation that I should not drive into the medina. I found an underground parking complex from where it was a short walk through the modern medina to the Dar Yanis hotel. The medina gate is called the Bab El Had. It is today much more than a mere vestige of the past Sunday market; it is now a dynamic urban crossroad and a popular meeting place, symbolizing the harmonious transition between the modernity of the new city and the authentic effervescence of the traditional Medina.

I was warmly welcomed at Dar Yanis, a superb old building converted into a hotel. The staff took a lot of pains to make me welcome and familiarised me with all the facilities there and the room. The guy in charge told me that I could park more cheaply at a facility close to the hotel and he gave me directions to it. After freshening up, I moved the car from the underground parking to the overcrowded parking lot meant for longer term parking. I was expertly guided into an empty slot and I paid the 30 MAD for the overnight parking and left by foot for the rest of the sightseeing.

The Corniche Bouregreg was under a km from the car park. It is the most well-known promenade in Rabat, and for good reason. It stretches along the Bouregreg River and connects the cities of Rabat and Salé. One can hire small boats for the crossing. This is a place where visitors come for impressive walking paths, a calming atmosphere, and spectacular views of some of the capital’s most iconic landmarks.

The promenade was filled with both locals and tourists. They combine the relaxing walk with views of landmarks such as the Kasbah of the Udaias, Hassan Tower, and the Rabat Medina. After spending quite some time in the Corniche and savouring an ear of boiled corn with a lavish sprinkling of salt and masala I walked to the Kasbah des Udaias.

The Kasbah of the Udaias, dating back to the 12th century, forms an integral part of Rabat’s history. This fortified citadel overlooks the Bouregreg river and the Atlantic Ocean. The Kasbah showcases stunning examples of Almohad art and architecture of the 12th century and its strategic location made it a crucial defensive structure for centuries. The Kasbah houses the Andalusian Gardens within its walls, creating a unique blend of military architecture and serene greenery.

I stayed at one of the Ocean viewpoints for over an hour, enjoying the sunset over the Atlantic. The many breakwaters, built to protect the shore from the battering of the Ocean, got busier by the hour. It became over cooler closer to sunset and I put on my Katmandu jacket. The sunset views were astounding. The lighthouse of Rabat emerged from the surrounding mist of the Ocean and became more focused.

On the way back to the hotel I walked through the old city market that was shutting shop and picked up a crispy chicken sandwich for dinner. Back in the accommodation I feasted on the sandwich and got into the comfortable bed for a well-earned rest.

ATM Tour – Casablanca to Marrakech – Day 3 – 13 January 2026

13 January is a red-letter day in my life. It's the birthday of my first born, Mary Elizabeth Joseph, Maya to her parents, relatives and friends. She was turning 40. Each birthday of your child reminds you that you are that much closer to your own grave!

Breakfast in Ryad 91, served in the rooftop terrace, is not served a minute before 8 am. I wanted to get away as quickly as possible to Marrakech, mostly to escape the city traffic in Casablanca. The coffee served in the restaurant is fantastic. This day I didn't have time to wait for a second cup. The same three varieties of bread - Babout, Harsha and Msemmen - with strawberry jam and white butter and a freshly squeezed glass of orange juice got me ready to walk from the hotel to the car rental. It was a bit more than a km to the parking lot of the car rental. I loaded the luggage into the car and arranged things inside as I wanted it to be for the first leg of the journey. I must say that I was a bit jumpy because of the accident I experienced in Amman, Jordan.

Fahd, the executive of AirCars, the car rental company, wished me luck on the trip and waved me goodbye as I eased on to the busy road. The traffic at 9 am wasn't quite as busy to be deemed crazy. My first concern was to find a fuel station as the gas tank reading showed zero! As soon as I got out of the main city area I drove into one and tanked up. The fuel in Morocco is quite expensive at about Rs. 115 per litre for petrol. The gas stations have only one variety of petrol. In the car rental office, I was told to ask for 'Essence', which is the right fuel for the MG3 I had rented. With that done and a visit to the men's room, I was set for the highway.

The speed limits, I was coached by the rental company, were to be strictly adhered to because there are cameras everywhere as well as mobile checking units. The speed limit in cities is normally 40 and 60 kph, while on the highway it is 100 or 120 kph. Once I got to the tolled A3, it was 120 kph all the way through for 210 km. This much must be said for the roads on the route to Marrakech - it is awesome with not one pothole or poor carpeting. An average speed of 90 kph can be maintained without stress. Moreover, disciplined lane driving ensured that the throughput on the motorway remains high. Radar controls are many, and I did see many mobile police units. Maybe, this eliminated rash and negligent driving.

I drove 210 km of the 250 km to Marrakech on the motorway and paid 80 MAD, roughly Rs. 780, as toll fee. The almost Rs. 4 per km may seem high, but the speed potential and savings in fuel and wear and tear are substantial. In our country, we hear of space technology being used for building roads and highways being built to American standards. I would suggest that they rather use the technology used in Morocco and build highways and motorways to Moroccan standards. The size of its economy is nowhere near the top world economies but is among the top 5 in Africa. However, the infrastructure is strong enough to support robust manufacturing growth, tourism and agriculture. And more is being built to cater to the Football World Cup Morocco will be hosting in 2030.

The Riad I had booked in Marrakech was right in the heart of the old town. I found a parking lot quite close to the Riad Maison Aicha and sought the help of a guy assisting the parking attendant to take me to the accommodation. The parking attendant overcharged me, as I understood from the Riad later. But I was comforted by the fact that the car was parked not far from the accommodation.

The street to the accommodation was so narrow in some places I wondered if I would be able to go through after a full meal. The access was not clean, and construction work was ongoing in many places. I felt I had made the wrong choice. However, once the door to the accommodation was opened it was a different ambience altogether. One thing, though, the rooms were small and the bathrooms are tiny. One should be prepared for a no-frills experience. Said, the youngster minding the accommodation, helped me with the luggage to the first-floor room.

I didn't take much time to settle in the accommodation. I walked out of the accommodation and got immersed in the walk in the souqs of Marrakech, an experience like no other in the world, I am sure. Principal among the souqs of Marrakech is the Souk Semmarine, which is labelled as the Bond Street of Marrakech. It runs north from the Djemaa el-Fna to the Ben Youssef Medersa and merges with Souk Nejjarine and Souk El-Kebir. Running off this main arterial souq is a whole slew of smaller souks dedicated to particular crafts such as carpets, textiles, babouche, leather hides, lanterns, spices, antiques, pottery, metalwork, wool, perfume and more. In short, you can shop for virtually everything here.

Another thing that can be experienced along the way are premium hammams and spa. There are quite a few of them. In the Souq el Jeld, the one for tan leather, one of the guys started singing Yeh Dosti, the song from Sholay and I joined him in full throated singing. It was an amazing experience. For those seeking historical experiences are the Marrakech Museum, the Museum of Confluences, traditional and lavish old Riads, Marrakech Museum, Le Jardin Secret, Medresa ben Yousef and the like. Entrance fee is typically 100 MAD per adult foreigner; a bit steep, I thought.

I exited the labyrinthine souqs onto the Jemaa el-Fna Square. With hectic preparations going on to set up temporary vending outlets in the Square I cut across the Square and decided to explore the Koutoubia Mosque first. After the previous versions were brought down to correct the alignment of the qibla, the current Koutoubia Mosque was built around 1199. The 77-meter minaret is composed of three elements and is decorated with various geometric patterns and topped with a spire and metal orbs. It is said to have inspired other buildings such as the Giralda in Seville and the Hassan Tower in Rabat. The minaret is considered an urban landmark and an important symbol of Marrakech. Entry into the mosque is limited to Muslims.

The Jemaa el-Fna Square is one of the main cultural spaces in Marrakesh and has evolved into one of the symbols of the city since its foundation in the eleventh century. It represents a unique concentration of popular Moroccan cultural traditions performed through musical, religious and artistic expressions. When I reached the massive square, portions of which were being in relaid, a large number of teams were pushing handcarts and wheel barrows with what looked like stagings to set up temporary stalls.

It was amazing to see how quickly the stalls were set up for vending fruit juices, selling dry fruits, shots of Moroccan coffee and teas and eateries. Within the hour the massive square was full of stalls and the loud and gay vendors started soliciting customers. I was addressed variously as Hey Moustache, Biriyani, Indian, etc. I smiled at them, waved at times, and moved on. Besides the stalls, there were a large number of Senegalese moving around selling watches, sunglasses, perfumes and garments. It was indeed once of the finest experiences I have had in a city.

Tempted though I was to try some traditional food in one of the stalls, I sauntered into the lovely Argana restaurant that faced the massive square and the Koutoubia minaret. I was famished but was intent on avoiding meat as much as possible. I ordered a plate of couscous and a cup of Cafe au Lait. A couple of maida and wheat Khobz with coffee came first. The waiter placed a small bottle of water too on the table who also mentioned that it was free and that I could ask for more. The couscous was superior in taste and content than the one I had had the previous night in Casablanca. The soup provided as an accompaniment was so tasty that I got an extra helping to soak the Khobz in. The meal was so filling that I decided to skip dinner.

I walked back to the accommodation through the Souq Semmarine. Things had quieted down and many shops had already closed for the day. The loud banter and soliciting had died down. It had started getting quite cold too. I sought refuge in my room and rested to prepare for the activities of the next day.