ATM Tour – Meknes to Casablanca – Day 9 – 19 January 2026

The breakfast at the Riad Royal was exceptional. Besides, the Msemmen and Harsha were two more Msemmen like preparations, honey, butter, cheese, orange marmalade with bread, freshly squeezed orange juice and heavenly Moroccan coffee. With the intention of skipping lunch I tucked into the breakfast spread leisurely, taking time over the meal. There wasn't any sightseeing on the agenda for the day. It would just be the drive to Casablanca and return of the car to the rental company.

Fortunately, the skies were clear when I took the bags to the car from the riad. The working day traffic was picking up as I was leaving Meknes. The motorways were super, as is usual in Morocco, with a speed limit of 120 kph. Police patrols and mobile speed guns, besides the radar control kept vigil constantly. I bypassed Rabat and got to the outskirts of Casablanca in about 3 hours. The traffic snaked on the way into the city. I called up Riad 91, where I was booked for the overnight stay, and requested them to unload the baggage from the car so that I could drive directly to the rental company parking. They obliged.

As I was driving into the rental parking one of the executives met me and inspected the car. Apart from not having cleaned the car, everything else was alright. Hoping that I could escape the 50 MAD charge for cleaning, I told him that it was raining heavily on the way and I had no chance of getting the car cleaned, which was true. Anyway, the cleaning charge was nominal and hence, I didn't press the point. My deposit was immediately released with little documentation work. The executives asked me to give them feedback online, which I did.

The seven-day car rental had cost me Rs. 17,000, including full coverage. I had booked it through Discover Cars, which has become my favourite aggregator, thanks mostly to the Jordan experience. In the seven days I had driven 1564 km in Morocco, spending about Rs. 13,000 on fuel and Rs. 3300 on tolls. The MG3 had served me well and Morocco became the 48th country I had driven in.

On the way back to the riad I picked up a couple of cans of the local Moroccan beer "Flag Pils". It costs about Rs. 200 per 50 cl can. Created in 1960, the beer is brewed by the Brasseries du Maroc, using selected barley and aromatic hops. It has a coppery blonde colour with abundant foam and a pleasant fizz. Dinner was in one of the KFC outlets nearby. The chicken tasted pleasantly different from what I have had back home.

Back in the room I rearranged stuff in the suitcase and got ready for the flights the next day to Cochin via Kuwait. Rajiv Shah, the proprietor of Network Tours and Travels who had done the visas and flight bookings, sent me the boarding passes. The 18-day, 3-country ATM Tour has come to an end. 67 countries so far visited, of which I have driven in 48 of them. “100 at 70” remains my dream - to travel to 100 countries by age 70. 2 years and a bit left to travel to 33 countries. Reality happens when you dream and dreams are free.

ATM Tour – Fes to Meknes via Ifrane – Day 8 – 18 January 2026

Ayman was the gem in Fes. He had been so helpful, friendly and hospitable that I felt that visitors chose the Riad Dar Mansoura from reviews of the host's nature. He suggested places to see, food to savour and what to avoid. As usual, he placed before me a huge breakfast consisting of Malawi olive - a kind of Moroccan pizza - Moroccan Pancake, an omelette, bread, apricot jam, butter, two types of olives, orange juice and coffee. I was not in a hurry this morning as the distance to be covered to Meknes via Ifrane was under 150 km. Therefore, I took my time to polish off all that was placed before me.

It was quite cold when I left Fes closer to 9 am from the parking lot. Mercifully, the weather was decent. Nearly 70 km from Fes lay the pretty town of Ifrane, in Morocco’s Middle Atlas Mountains. Known for its alpine-style architecture and nearby ski slopes and forests, it is also nicknamed "Switzerland of Morocco" because of its severe cold and snow in autumn and winter and mild weather in spring and summer. It was established as a hill station during the French colonial rule in 1928 for the Europeans to escape the summer heat of Morocco.

Being a holiday, the town was overcrowded with visitors and finding a parking spot was difficult. The town was fully snowed under. I had to be extra careful to avoid slipping on thin ice. A stone statue of a lion near the Parc la Prairie is a well-known landmark in the town. Visitors queued up to take selfies and photos with it in the background. The valleys and lakes of Ifrane were frozen over. The petite train of the town was parked too. The coronation square had knee deep snow. It was freezing cold and the roads had become slushy from the melting snow. A couple of skidding accidents on the way to Ifrane indicated how tricky the roads are.

After nearly an hour, with hands and feet getting number by the minute, I left for Meknes, about 60 km away. Almost immediately as I started the descent from the pretty hill station it started raining. The rain continued till I reached Meknes about 90 minutes later.

The contact from Riad Royal, where I was booked for the night halt in Meknes, had sent me precise directions to park just outside the Medina entrance. The Riad, one of the best accommodations I stayed in in Morocco was brilliantly done up - it was like staying with royalty in a museum.

I could do very little sightseeing in the evening because of the rain and biting cold. I walked past the Bab Mansoura gate, through the medina market and across the el-Hedim Square. The Bab Mansoura Gate is a monumental gate facing the main square of the city, the el-Hedim Square, in the old city. Completed in 1732, the purpose of the gate was more ceremonial than strategic. It was meant to impress visitors to the Kasbah. It continues to wow visitors as it is one of the most famous and admired landmarks in the city.

The large square across the ceremonial gate is the el-Hedim square built in the late 17th century. It is an open-air market place, very similar to the Jemma el-F'naa  in Marakkech, near the Koutoubia Mosque. With rain coming down steadily the square was deserted.

I walked through the covered medina market, much smaller in size as compared to the ones I had been in the past few days. The various types of olives on display, vegetables in brine, dry fruits and fresh fruits awed me. I bought dates, walnuts and figs to carry back home. The quality and price were good. It had become very chilly as I was returning to the Riad.

I walked into a cafe for a cup of Cafe au Lait. The massive TV screens in the rather small cafe were turned on at full volume with pre-match reviews of the African Cup football finals match between Morocco and Senegal. The seats were so arranged to give the feel of being in a theatre.

Later in the evening, I went to a traditional Moroccan restaurant and had a magnificent feast of Chicken Tajine and a glass of pulpy orange juice. As I left the restaurant, I noticed that the atmosphere was getting built up everywhere for the African Cup football finals between the host nation, Morocco, and Senegal, to be played later that evening.

ATM Tour – In Fes – Day 7 – 17 January 2026

It was so heartbreaking to hear the sound of falling rain almost throughout the night. A couple of times in the night I opened the window of the room and confirmed that the city was experiencing torrential rains. I thought that my sightseeing tours in Morocco are over, thanks to the wet weather. That said, I got ready in time before 9 for the healthy breakfast Ayman placed on the dining table. It had fresh orange juice, Msemmen, omelette, harsha, bread, apricot jam, honey and butter. Plus, of course, strong Moroccan coffee. 

Ayman kept apologising profusely for the foul weather. The guy is a gem, the gentlest giant I have ever met on a trip and the most helpful, surely. While at breakfast, a group of three tourists joined on another table. They seemed to be in a hurry to be ready for a conducted tour of the medina. Soon a tour guide reported to the accommodation, and they set off, togged in raincoats and armed with umbrellas. It was still pouring.

I lazed around in the living area, had another coffee and struck up another conversation with Ayman. After about 45 minutes the sound of rain ceased. Ayman said that the weather may remain decent for the next couple of hours. I decided to take advantage of the break in weather for a quick tour of the medina.

The fortifications of Fes comprise a complex circuit of ramparts and gates surrounding Fes el-Bali and Fes el-Jdid, two urban agglomerations that compose the old "medina" of Fes. They also include a number of kasbahs (citadels) and forts which were built over centuries and different periods to protect and control the city. There are 11 gates of Fes el-Bali and 10 of Fes el-Jdid.

Fes el-Bali is considered one of the most extensive and best conserved historic towns of the Arab-Muslim world. It is a UNESCO World Heritage site, the largest car-free urban area in the world, covering 540 acres.  The Rabat, Tangier and Casablanca medinas, in comparison, are small.

The mosaic tiled Blue Gate, aka Bab Boujeloud, is the towering entryway to the Fes el-Bali. The blue on the outside of the gate that greets visitors represents the color of the city of Fes, which is famous for its pottery, painted with elegant cobalt blue designs. The reverse side, which faces the medina, is green, the color of Islam. Built in 1913, the gate is a doorway between two equally colorful and dynamic scenes, one that feels distinctly 21st century, and the other an intriguing mix of different eras.

Once through "The Blue Gate," the thrum of traffic is quickly replaced by the din of shopkeepers selling their wares and the muffled footsteps of thousands of animals and pedestrians making their way through the winding alleyways of the medina. From the Bab Boujeloud entrance, there are two main alleyways into the medina, the Tala'a Kbira and Tala'a Sghira.

My first target was the Bou Inania Madrasa and water clock that was less than 100 meters from the accommodation. Founded by the Merenid Sultan in the mid-14th century as atonement for his sins, the Bou Inania Madrasa served as both an educational center and a mosque. It is the only madrasa in Fes to have a minaret. The madrasa retains its religious function but welcomes non-Muslims outside of prayer times. The madrasa's iconic feature is its green-tiled tower.

The carved cedar is also a feast for the eyes. The marble floor is equally beautiful. Hand-crafted stucco adorns the walls, including the spaces between the columns. Add to all this is the geometric patterns and calligraphy that make the Bou Inania Madrasa a true showcase of ancient Arab craftsmanship. The ablution fountain is fed directly by the Fes River. Just outside and opposite the madrasa, is the hydraulic clock, which is currently under repair. It has stunned scientists and researchers alike, who have tried to put the clock back in working order.

The Nijjarine souk is where you can appreciate the most exquisite work of craftsmanship. Different types of wood are worked on to make the most exquisite decorative pieces in the small workshops attached to some of the shops. Walking through the Souq, admiring the creativity I came to the Nijjarine Fountain and fondouk, meaning inn.

It was built in 1711 as a lodging house for travellers. It included a courtyard where merchants stored and sold their wares. While commercial activity centred on the ground level, merchants' quarters were upstairs. Today, the former fondouk is the Nejjarine Museum of Wooden Arts and Crafts.

The Nejjarine fountain, covered in zellij tilework, stands just outside the building. Although it might seem to be an independent structure, its typical horseshoe arch and other details match the fondouk's architecture, an intentional choice, since it was erected in the first half of the 19th century. The fountain was used for ablutions. In 1916, the Moroccan government recognized both the fondouk and fountain as national monuments, restoring them at the end of the last millennia.

Coming out of the Nijjarine square I caught sight of a vendor selling Moroccan pastries and sweets. I couldn't resist the temptation of savouring one of them. I chose a piece of the almond snake pastry, called M'hancha in Arabic. This sweet Moroccan pastry takes its name from a traditional presentation of pastry-wrapped almond paste shaped like a coiled snake.

As I was busy savouring the pastry I was accosted by a ‘tout’ who said he would take me to experience firsthand the process followed by the Chouara tannery. I was sceptical of the offer thinking that he would demand money for the assistance. Nevertheless, I had to learn about the famous tanneries of Fes too. He brought me to a shop and introduced me to a personable young man called Ishmayel, who, over the next half hour took me on a tour of the massive retail outlet and explained in detail the natural processing of leather.

Before taking me to the rooftop of the building he handed me a few strands of mint leaves. I did not understand why he did that. When I reached the rooftop, I realised what that was for. The stench that arose from the processing units was unbearable. The mint leaves are used to mask the foul smell. Ishmayel told me how chemical processing of leather, the world over, has sent the tanneries in Fes down a slippery slope of decline. From over 120 tanneries 20 years ago, the number has come down to just 2. Chemical processing has reduced the time to ready the leather for work from 40 days to just 48 hours.

He explained that the tanneries have been functioning in Fes for over 900 years. The Chouara area was renovated in 2016, but the scene, viewed from the surrounding balconies, remains remarkably medieval. Hundreds of hides were hung out, after the cleaning process, to dry in the sun, which takes three days. The dyeing tanks is another feature to experience from the rooftop. Ishmayel told me that the hides of goat, sheep, cow and camel are used, but the goat skin and underside of the camel produce the best leather. It is striking to see the hard physical labour that goes into the butter-soft, elegant leather goods sold in the shops.

After the visit of the tannery area, I walked to the Al Quarouyine University and mosque. It was established in 859 by a lady, Fatima Al Fihria, a member of an elite family who emigrated from the Tunisian city of Kairouan. The Al Quarouyine is the spiritual heart of Fes and, arguably, all Morocco. It is also considered the world's oldest university, though it began as a simple madrasa. It expanded over centuries and has a capacity of 20,000 now. As with most Moroccan mosques, only Muslims are permitted to enter here. Visitors can have a glimpse of the mosque's courtyard from the massive entrance door.

A fair distance from the Blue Gate is the Jnan Sbil Gardens, also known as the Bou Jeloud Gardens. It is a public space between Fes el-Jdid and Fes el-Bali, the two parts of the old Medina. Founded in the late 19th century the gardens were initially only accessible to the nobility. They were opened to the public in 1917. Over 3000 species of flora are found in the park, accompanied by colorful fountains. The Oued Fes river supplies water to the gardens and there are historic water wheels in the gardens where the park touches the river.

The beauty of the historic city of Fes is best had from panoramic viewpoints on the hill opposite the Medina. The Panoramic View in Fes, set above the bustling streets and vibrant markets, offers breathtaking views that encapsulate the rich tapestry of Fes. The sweeping vista of the medina, winding alleys, and the majestic backdrop of the Atlas Mountains provide an unforgettable experience.

Likewise, the Shpigel lookout, perched gracefully on the hilltop near the Bjor Nord, affords breathtaking and panoramic views of the medina and the sprawling landscape beyond. The sight of the iconic Koutoubia Mosque and the surrounding hills is simply captivating, making it a perfect spot for photography enthusiasts and nature lovers alike.

The Merenid tombs, visible from the Medina as well as from the lookout points mentioned above, are closed for renovation.

Thanks to the let up in the weather, almost all of what I wanted to experience in Fes was done. The Royal Palace and a couple of other sites were skipped as they were quite far from the Medina. However, it had been a full day, and all that remained was another visit to Mom's Touch, the awesome restaurant I had been to last night. This night I ordered Millefuelle d'Aubergines for starter and Pastilla de Poulet for the main course with a lemonade of citron and ginger. Every bit of the meal was as awesome as could be expected. That signalled the end of the Fes leg of the ATM Tour.

On the return walk to the Dan Mansoura, I picked up a piece each of Ghoriba Bahla cookie and chocolate peanut brownie for dessert, to be had in the room.

ATM Tour – Tangier to Fes via Chefchaouen – Day 6 – 16 January 2026

Since the previous evening it had been raining. Andit just got worse. This morning, when I went down for breakfast in the Villa I had to take a seat indoors. It was still raining. The buffet breakfast had the layered Msemmen, Danish pastry, croissant, jam and butter as well as cereals. A hot cup of Moroccan coffee in the morning had almost become an addiction by now.

Right through breakfast I mulled the option of going back to the Tangier Medina to visit the tomb of Ibn Batuta, the Tangier born 'Islamic Marco Polo'. I had missed it the previous evening when I visited the Medina. Finally, despite the incessant rain I decided to take a chance. I could not leave the city without ‘meeting up’ with one of the greatest travellers of all time.

I left the superb Villa Adam and drove 10 minutes to the Medina. Fortunately, traffic was sparse and I found parking quite easily. It was raining quite a bit. I walked briskly in the direction of the tomb, which was about 850 meters from where I had parked. In the rain, the distance seemed longer. And there was no let up at all. Narrow streets and slippery steps later I stood in front of the great traveller's tomb. There was one problem, however. The smallish building was closed. A lady came out from the next house and informed me that the key to the tomb was with someone living in the Kasbah.

Even though I was disappointed, I consoled myself that I could at least be there to seek the blessings of one of my idols, who I had become familiar with in textbooks. Ibn Battuta had travelled more than any other explorer in pre-modern history, totalling 117,000 km, surpassing Zheng He who had travelled about 50,000 km and Marco Polo with 24,000 km. Ibn Batuta travelled for over 29 years between 1325 and 1354 AD. I felt a great sense of energy there despite not being able to go inside the great traveller's tomb.

The lady took me via a shorter way, back to the exit of the Medina. I had become completely wet in the bargain. Back in the car, I set my sights to leave Tangier and onwards to Chefchaouen, my next sightseeing destination. On my lips was "Rain, rain go away, come again another day". The intensity of the rain was only increasing despite the prayer. At times the visibility was severely impacted too. It was a wet drive all the way to Chefchaouen, where I reached around noon.

I had slotted about two hours for a tour of the city, known for the striking, blue-washed buildings of its old town. It was raining cats and dogs and parking was hard to find. However, two parking attendants found me parking way out of where I wanted to be. Therefore, I decided to leave and not park there. This got them irate. One of them asked me to pay him for having found me a slot. I refused, as I was not going to use it anyway. I took the car out from the slot and drove through a very narrow street till I was about 50 meters away from the main road. The only problem was that there were steps in front of me! I would not be able to go forward and reversing meant almost certain scratches and dents to the car because of the bends in the narrow street I had come there by.

I was stuck, not knowing what to do, when a person arrived there and started directing me to reverse the car. I don't know from where he came and who had sent him. I knew only this much – he was a Guardian Angel sent to perform a miracle. It took me more than 20 minutes of nerve-wracking session behind the wheel, with fingers getting cramped, to get the car and self-extricated from that impossibly cramped space.

Passersby wondered how I had got there in the first place. But the person who was directing me was so focussed that, despite not being able to communicate verbally, his hands did the trick. One wrong turn of the wheel, a bit more of acceleration or even losing one's nerves would have meant disaster. HE gave me a calmness that is not normally my forte. Finally, I crawled out of the hole I had unwittingly got into. I believe in miracles. This one had just happened. As soon as his work was done, the person who helped me, just wished me and walked away. Unbelievable.

I decided to abandon any further stay in the city as it was continuously raining. I was scheduled to halt the night at Fes, about 220 km from Chefchaouen. The rain had picked up in intensity. The road, a non-tolled dual carriageway was poor in parts with potholes and cracked edges. The speed limit for the most part was 80 kph, with many stretches under maintenance and construction works.

The road wound through hilly terrain with resplendent greenery on both sides. Orange orchards and olive plantations studded the route as far as the eyes could see. There were many makeshift retail shops vending oranges. I stopped at one and bought two kgs of juicy oranges. The vendor, a friendly chap, made me taste an orange before deciding the purchase.

One feature that stood out all along the drive between Tangier and Fes was the overarching presence of police beats and patrol cars at regular intervals. I was not stopped at all. The route being mountainous and roads not well surfaced, it was necessary to caution drivers and ensure safe driving. I did not see even one incident that could be remotely described as dangerous or negligent driving. This, to me, is an important ingredient of good governance; ensure application of laws and prevent untoward from happening.

Ayman, the contact from the Dar Mansoura accommodation in Fes, had given me clear instructions of where to park near the accommodation. He had underlined the fact that I shouldn't enter the Medina with the car. When I reached the Blue Gate of the Medina, I called him up. He came to the car and took me to the underground parking lot, almost directly in front of the Medina Gate.

The accommodation was just a couple of hundred meters from the exit of the parking lot. I went with Ayman to Dar Mansoura and he gave me a bigger room than I had booked on booking.com. He told me that he could help me park in another parking lot a bit further away from the Blue Gate at half the price where I had parked. I was game for any opportunity to reduce cost, and he helped me move the car to the new parking place, that was overcrowded.

But his friendship with the parking attendants ensured that I got a slot to park the car for two days. I paid 60 MAD upfront and got back to the accommodation. There was nothing much that I could do because of the rain. Therefore, I rested for some time in the room and unpacked. Ayman suggested Mom's Touch for dinner. The restaurant was just a hundred meters from the accommodation.

It was still pouring when I walked as fast as I could to the restaurant. Mom's Touch is a building with four levels with the kitchen on the second level. Traditional and aesthetic elements were brought together in such a manner within the restaurant that the ambience was one to die for. I took a seat on the rooftop terrace, which was quite a climb from the restaurant reception, along narrow winded stairs.

It was dark and raining and hence, the rooftop views were not to be had. I ordered a glass of fresh orange juice, a starter of aubergine with mashed potatoes and sour cream and a main course of pesto pasta. I was famished and had time to spare. I leisurely went through the massive portions. That the starter and main course dish were superb would be an understatement.

While walking back to the accommodation I came across a vendor selling traditional Moroccan sweets. I couldn't resist the feast I saw before me. I bought a piece of gazelle horn called Kaab el Gazal. It consists of almond paste wrapped in thin dough, and scented with orange blossom. The shape of the sweets honours the gazelle.