Reflecting On The "Land Of Unexpected Treasures" - Brunei - 3 August 2026

The flight from Singapore to Delhi, of over 5 hours, gave me ample time to reflect on my short, albeit enjoyable, sojourn in Bandar Seri Begawan (BSB), Brunei. BSB is the capital of the tiny nation on the island of Borneo. It is surrounded by the South China Sea and Malaysia. To put the country's geographical size in perspective, compare the size of Brunei, which is 5,765 square kilometres to Sikkim, which is 1.2 times the size of Brunei at 7,096 square kilometres. Tripura at 10,491 square kilometres is about 1.8 times larger than Brunei and Goa is about 0.6 times with 3,702 square kilometres. Kerala, the state I hail from, is 7 times the size of Brunei, logging 38,863 square kilometres

The official language of Brunei is Malay and 82 percent of the population is Sunni Muslim. The country gained independence from United Kingdom in 1984. Hassanal Bolkiah had been the Sultan of Brunei since 1967, and is one of the few absolute monarchs in the world today. The world's largest car collection of over 7000 cars, including 600 Rolls Royce, worth over $5 billion, belongs to the Sultan.

The economy is almost totally dependent on export of natural gas and petroleum. It depends on imports for all its consumption needs, though efforts are being made to diversify the economy. The cradle-to-grave welfare system that spans education, healthcare, housing and a tax-free environment is a boon to its citizens. One Brunei Dollar (BND) is about INR 74.18 presently. The BND is pegged to the Singapore Dollar (SGD), whereby 1 BND is equal to 1 SGD. The currencies are freely accepted in both countries.

Roughly 70% of the country is covered by dense, undisturbed tropical rainforests. It is widely known among eco-travellers for its highly protected national parks, such as the Ulu Temburong National Park, which can only be reached by traditional longboats. Even the capital city has copious amounts of greenery and tree cover.

Public transport is virtually absent. Since fuel prices are so low, about Rs 25 per litre of petrol, everyone uses cars to commute and get between places. even though an elaborate bus route is published on line and neat bus stops are provided, I didn't see a single bus on the roads of BSB during the three days that I was there. Nor did I see a single person waiting in any bus stop in anticipation of a bus. I first tried to use one on exiting the arrivals at the airport. Sane voices told me to download the Dart App and save time and frustration.

Car ownership is very high. However, the driving is responsible and pedestrians are given due respect. This is despite there being hardly any pedestrian crossings or lights. The speed limit on highways is 100 and city limit is much more stringent considering the way people drive there. Another indicator of responsible vehicle use is that one doesn't see dented or damaged vehicles on the roads.

Rizwan, the Dart driver, had told me that it is cheaper to eat out than to buy provisions and cook. He said that most provisions were imported into the country as farming and agriculture is minimal. Food is quite cheap in night markets and food courts. With breakfast provided in the hotel, I managed lunch and dinner in under 5 S$, about Rs. 375, of course without drinks. Naturally, eating in cafes and restaurants will cost you quite a bit more.

Education in Brunei is free for all citizens from preschool through tertiary levels—including local and approved overseas universities—and is overseen by the Ministry of Education and the Ministry of Religious Affairs. The system follows a structure of 1 year of pre-school, 6 years of primary school, and 6 years of secondary and middle education, followed by post-secondary or higher education. Citizens get free hostels, transport, meals and textbooks. Besides, education is compulsory between the ages of 6 and 15; children must attend school for a minimum period of 9 years. As per law, parents can face fines or jail time if they fail to send their children to school without an official excuse.

I found the locals extremely friendly and ready to assist. Social interactions are given a lot of importance. Civic responsibility and traditional values are woven into the fabric of Bruneian society. Being a strict Muslim country, people dress very conservatively.

Liquor and drugs are a no-go in the country. Locals cannot consume liquor and there are no liquor shops in the country. Non-Muslim visitors above the age of 18 can bring restricted quantity for their own private consumption during the visit. Warnings abound about the administration's zero tolerance to drugs - death penalty for trafficking. The only other place I have seen such public warning is in Singapore.

Leaving The "Land Of Unexpected Treasures" - Bandar Seri Begawan to Ahmedabad via Singapore, Delhi - 3 August 2026

The thunder, lightning and rain was heavier overnight than the previous days. I woke up early, after a fitful sleep, as I intended to leave for the airport by 6.30 am for the 9.20 am Royal Brunei flight to Singapore. For some strange reason I could not do web check-in for the flight. Breakfast opened at 6 am and I was the first guest to walk in to the dining hall when the door opened. The menu was different today with Thai noodles, plain rice, egg rice, Thai mango fish, cakes, etc. I tucked in as much as I could.

Must say that the stay in Higher Hotel was value for money. Excellent location, comfortable room and amenities and very helpful staff. At the time of checkout my refundable deposit was returned. For reasons unknown then I could not book a taxi through the Dart App from phone. Later, I saw that the phone was on airplane mode! The receptionist booked a ride for me and also gave me change to pay for the Dart ride.

The Dart driver, Thon, is of Chinese descent; his grandfather had reached Brunei in search of a job and since then three generations have been born in Brunei. He told me that it is next to impossible for foreigners to get citizenship in the country now. The only way to become one is to marry a local. He mentioned that the Dart engagement gives him enough to lead a comfortable life in Bandar Seri Begawan.

When I told him that I am flying to India via Singapore and Delhi, he said that there is a direct flight from Chennai to Bandar Seri Begawan. Good information for any future guidance, I thought. All the drivers of the Dart ride I used in Bandar Seri Begawan turned out to be exceptionally friendly and knowledgeable. Education shows and civic mentoring from an early age pays dividends.

At the Royal Brunei counter, I was told that my luggage would have to be collected in Delhi and rechecked for the flight to Ahmedabad. Besides, I would have to get the Air India boarding passes in Singapore from the transfer desk. I wouldn't have been worried about this had I been able to complete web check-in. Every time I tried to, I was asked to pay for seat selection for the flights I had taken from Ahmedabad to Delhi and Delhi to Singapore. That was ridiculous because the counter clerk at Ahmedabad airport never asked me for any charges when I requested for the change in case there were any vacant window seats.

Anyways, I settled in comfortably into the well-maintained aircraft of Royal Brunei and enjoyed the inflight services. I opted for breakfast, second of the morning, of scrambled eggs, baked beans, hash browns and sausage. They served excellent coffee too. The flight landed on time in Singapore. The time between the flights in Singapore was about 110 minutes. As soon as I got off the aerobridge, I made haste to the transfer lounge. When I reached there after about 12 minutes of brisk walk, I found the four counters closed. I panicked as there was not much time for the gates to open for the Delhi flight.

I started looking around for an information counter and there was no indication about any anywhere. Fortunately, a staff working in one of the duty-free shops asked me to go to E transfer counter, where, he said, I may get my work done.

By this time full blown panic had gripped me. I part walked, part ran to the E Transfer lounge located more than 15 minutes away. What will happen if I don't get the boarding passes there? Will I miss my flight? Overthinking took over. When I reached the E Transfer lounge, I found that the Air India counter was unmanned! Greater panic! However, two other staff were servicing customers across two other counters. I approached one of them and she calmly asked for my passport and baggage receipt. A huge wave of relief swept through me. Finally, I would be catching my flight after all. She told me that I would have to collect my baggage in Delhi even though the boarding pass for both the flights were being issued.

She must have seen the panic on the face and thought that I was on the verge of a breakdown. When she handed over the boarding passes to me, she said that I can walk slowly to the scheduled gate as I still had over 20 minutes for the gate to open. I did as she told me to. The mind and body regained equilibrium and I reached the gate well in time. The Air India flight was nearly full and it left the aerobridge for a right time departure to Delhi.

In The "Land Of Unexpected Treasures" - In Bandar Seri Begawan - 2 August 2026

It rained heavily last night for close to two hours with thunder threatening to spoil the last full day of my stay in Bandar Seri Begawan. However, when I woke up in the morning, from my bedroom window, I could hardly see any evidence of that rain. The drainage system must be superb, is what I concluded. I had breakfast early. The fare was cereals, bread and spreads, juices, coffee, soup, steamed rice, nasi lemak, chicken curry, boiled eggs, spinach curry, salad, dim sum, local cakes, etc. I had a hearty breakfast and prepared for a long day. The coffee was awesome.

I booked a taxi using the Dart App and Rizwan soon turned up. A very friendly chap, he explained to me that the main roads are closed on Sundays till noon so that locals and residents can use them to exercise and stretch their limbs after a week at work. Rizwan told me that education is compulsory and they pay 3 BND a year up to higher secondary. The fee included books and uniforms!

To my query as to how most Bruneians speak excellent English, he said that only Malay and religious education was covered in Malay language. The other 6 subjects were taught in English. Students’ higher education is covered by the government anywhere in the world; most prefer education in London. When I told him that I found the locals extremely polite, hospitable and helpful he said that they have the time to be so because of the slow pace of daily life.

He said that the government did not find it worth their while investing in public transport because of low demand. Bruneians also generate sufficient funds to travel to place alike Malaysia, Singapore and Western countries. Before dropping me off at the Kianggeh Market he recommended a restaurant called Soto Pabo for its views. It was indeed an excellent interaction with a youngster who openly disclosed that he had been, at times, critical of the government in the past. But when he travelled to other countries, he realised the heaven he already was in!

The Tamu Kianggeh Market has been around since the 1980s. Strategically positioned near the bank of the Brunei River, the market served as a spot for people from Kampong Ayer water village and from the mainland to sell, barter and trade their products and produce. The Tamu Kianggeh Market is now a roofed street market in Brunei presenting a wide array of shopping and eating alternatives. It showcases all the distinguished goods of Brunei along with the traditional hand-woven handicrafts.

The Tamu Kianggeh Market comprises of a series of stalls selling different products ranging from food and beverages to souvenirs and groceries. Gulingtangan, a traditional brass musical instrument is played by the local people at the market and the ancient goods and antiques which are almost dying out are at a sale to preserve the culture.

Opposite the entrance to the market is the revered Teng Yun Temple, which is cherished as Brunei's oldest Chinese temple. It offers a serene spiritual escape and a glimpse into rich cultural heritage. Visitors can appreciate its colourful architecture and the peaceful ambiance, though it can get busy during major festivals like the Chinese New Year.

From the temple I walked to the Brunei waterfront, which is a scenic promenade offering stunning views of the Brunei River and Kampung Ayer. It's a popular spot for strolls, jogging, and enjoying the fresh breeze, with lush greenery and charming cafes lining the area. On Sunday mornings, as it was today, the area is car-free, creating a perfect environment for leisurely walks and birdwatching.

Originally known as the Royal Customs and Excise Wharf, the waterfront has a rich history as a port and entry point for passengers and imported goods arriving by sea. In 2011, the waterfront was redeveloped into a scenic promenade, enhancing the nightlife in Brunei's capital. I walked along enjoying the awesome scenery of the village on stilts, the river and the businesses in action.

I took the short Boat ride to Kampong Ayer and got off at the jetty near the Kampong Ayer Cultural and Tourism Gallery. Entrance to the gallery is free. And I spent a fascinating half hour in the gallery taking in the historical importance of the water village that goes back to over 1000 years. It was the seat of administration and the Sultanate functioned from Kampong Ayer till the end of the 19th century. Besides, being the administrative hub, it was the never centre of commerce and port related activity.

Things started changing in the early 20th century with people moving to the mainland in large numbers to take up newer opportunities. However, the welfare of the historic water village, the largest anywhere in the world, has been a major focus point of the administration. Clean drinking water and electricity is ensured at all costs.

Nearly 29 km of wooden and concrete boardwalks link the massive community. Known as the "Venice of the East", the 10 sq. km area is home to over 10,000 people. The cultural centre has work of arts and crafts on sale that are products of the village. There is a watch tower, from where one can get panoramic view of the water village.

After walking around the village boardwalks for about half an hour I hailed a water taxi to get to the mainland. A fellow lady passenger struck up a conversation with me. When she knew that I wanted to go on a river cruise she told the boatman to do the needful. A deal was struck for a one-hour ride for 20 BND, with a promise that he would show me the proboscis monkeys that are native to the Borneo forests.

The Brunei River has been the epicentre of civilisation and economy as a bustling heart of commercial activity and foreign trade. The Brunei River empties into the South China Sea through the Brunei Bay. The tributaries of the river run through the city of Bandar Seri Begawan.

The hour-long experience on the Brunei River made me take in the rich ecosystem embellished by mangrove trees, pidada tree, Menkuang tree, Pong Pong tree and the Nipah Palm. The Pidada tree is a hardy mangrove species that has edible leaves and fruit known as mangrove apple. The dried Menkuang leaves are trimmed and woven into mats, baskets and bags. The Pong Pong tree has white, fragrant flowers and waxy green leaves that make the tree look attractive. The Nipah Palm grows in clusters along the shoreline and is a useful tree. Its young shoots, fruits, sap and flowers are all edible.

We stopped for a few minutes near the Tamoi Mosque, which is within the water village cluster. The structure features a distinctive Moorish-style architecture, characterized by its towering white minarets and green-painted domes. The mosque was opened in 1987. This stilt-supported sanctuary can accommodate more than 1,000 worshippers at a time.

The next prominent site was the highly restricted private property, colloquially referred to by names like Istana Ameerah or the Azrinaz Mansion. It is a massive neoclassical structure featuring a prominent central dome and a grand elevated driveway bridge leading up the hillside. It is closed to the general public with no photography or entry permitted near the gates.

One can also fleetingly see the Istana Nurul Iman, the official residence of the Sultan of Brunei. It is officially recognized by Guinness World Records as the largest residential palace in the world. The prominent golden dome peeking above the lush canopy of trees is a signature architectural detail of the complex. The palace's name translates to "Palace of the Light of Faith". The palace is typically closed to the general public, except during the annual celebrations when it opens its doors to visitors for a few days.

Then onwards, in search of the proboscis monkeys. The boatman stopped at a small niche in the mangrove and pointed to some of the tree where the monkeys were feasting on the leaves of the trees. It took me a long time to pick them out in the foliage. The views were not up, close and personal. However, when some of them jumped from one tree branch to another I got a good glimpse of them. But they were too fast for my camera. Their distinctive long nose and brown fur are their hallmarks. Besides, they are good swimmers too, perhaps a good defence mechanism to avoid predators.

With the slated activities done I hailed a taxi on the Dart App and got to my accommodation. On the way, I darted into the Lof bakery and picked up a few items for lunch and dinner. Brunei, the 71st country, is done and dusted.

In The "Land Of Unexpected Treasures" - Bandar Seri Begawan - 1 August 2026

When I checked in last evening at the Higher Hotel, I was given two breakfast coupons each for the three nights I was booked to stay there. When I checked with the staff if they had mistakenly given me the additional coupons, they told me matter of factly that I could bring a guest along for breakfast! Breakfast consisted of local food, the only 'continental' items being cereals.

There was fried kuay teow, garlic butter rice, steamed rice, ABC soup, sweet and sour chicken, chicken spring roll, veg spring roll, eggs, local cakes, bread and a host of spreads, coffee, fruit juices, etc. A warning was displayed at the buffet counter that a fine would be levied in case 100 grams or more of food is wasted. Never seen this warning anywhere before. But I have seen people wasting so much food in a buffet, it isn't funny.

I walked about 2 km to the Our Lady of Assumption Church, the first on the itinerary for the day. Even though it had rained the previous night, it was hot and humid. By the time I reached the church I was already bathed in sweat. Before the construction of the church started in 1957, a small chapel, a school, and a parsonage existed in a land donated by a devout local Catholic.

The construction took 12 years to complete, and the church was consecrated on Aug. 15, 1969, the feast of Assumption of Mother Mary. A painting of Mary Assumed into Heaven, just below a crucifix of Jesus, adorns the backdrop of the church’s main altar. It is a simple place of worship, maintained neatly. The St. George's School building functions in close proximity to the church. I was indeed happy to see the discipline of the children in disposing of garbage and queuing up to enter their classrooms.

Almost next door to the Our Lady of Assumption Church is the St. Andrew's Anglican Church. It is a notable Christian place of worship known for its bright blue exterior and adjacent educational institution, offering regular English and multi-lingual services. The St Andrew's school is Brunei's first Anglican school, founded in 1956, as a primary school with 70 students and 3 teachers. More than 1000 students from Brunei and other countries now attend the school.

The Royal Regalia Museum is not far from the two churches. Footwear has to be taken off at the entrance of the museum and bags have to be deposited in a locker after securing an entrance ticket for 5 BND. The Royal Regalia Museum is home to the Sultanate’s heirlooms and regalia. From golden chariots to olden-day symbolic weapons and shields, exhibits of His Majesty’s Silver and Golden Jubilee celebrations, and ornate mementos from historic Brunei, this museum is embellished with the beauty of Brunei’s past.

The museum also takes one through the Sultan's life from birth to the current day, including the commemoration of Silver and Golden jubilee celebrations. The presents given to the Sultan by various visiting dignitaries are carefully displayed in the museum. Right at the entrance to the museum visitors are greeted with the very same golden chariot used to bring the Sultan through the city streets during the Silver Jubilee celebration in 1992 and was also used during the visit of Queen Elizabeth II. A tour well worth the time spent.

Not far from the museum is the Secretariat building. It is a historic colonial-style landmark built in 1952 and served as the early main seat of the Brunei government. At the intersection after the building one comes across the Memorial Clock Tower, established in 1959, which stands as an enduring symbol of the close ties and friendship between Brunei and Malaysia

The bright blue mosaic tiled tower features four large Seiko clocks extending from each upper corner face. Besides, the clock tower serves as the country’s "Zero Mile" marker. It is the starting point from which all official road distances between the capital city and other destinations across Brunei are measured.

Just after the intersection is the historical site where the independence of Brunei was proclaimed from the British Government in 1984. It is now the venue for national celebrations such as the one recently concluded, the Sultan's 80 birthday celebrations.

Another short walk from there is the Yayasan Sultan Haji Hassanal Bolkiah Complex. It is a prominent, government-owned shopping and commercial centre opened in 1996. It features retail shops, eateries, and scenic views of the Kampong Ayer water village and the Sultan Haji Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque.

As I was crossing the road from the Yayasan I met a young man from the Czech Republic, who was evidently vlogging using a GoPro. We spoke for a brief while. He was confused by the lack of people on the streets or in visitor locations. He recalled fondly his three visits to India but bemoaned the total lack of hygiene.

Close to the Yayasan is the BIBD Frame, which is an iconic public landmark that offers panoramic photo views of the Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque. It is located on the lawn of Taman Mahkota Jubli Emas park. Bank Islam Brunei Darussalam is the main Islamic financial institution and the largest bank in Brunei.

The Sungai Kedayan Eco-Corridor - Brunei’s new 12-hectare riverfront park - was officially named “Taman Mahkota Jubli Emas” by the monarch in 2017. The park’s manicured lawns, colourful tulips and imposing baobab trees are all set against the majestic backdrop of Sultan Omar ‘Ali Saifuddien (SOAS) Mosque. The Eco-Corridor is an urban redevelopment project aimed at revitalising the capital city. The Kampong Ayer water village is linked to the mainland and internal zones via the Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddien Pedestrian Bridge.

From the riverfront walkway one can see the building of the Supreme Court of Brunei. The highest court in Brunei is the Court of Appeal, which is part of the Supreme Court of Brunei Darussalam. For Islamic law matters, the Sharia Court of Appeal serves as the highest authority.

The Madrasah Building is a notable architectural landmark located directly opposite the iconic Masjid Omar Ali Saifuddien. The architecture of the building blends local Malay and modern Islamic design, with a prominent minaret. This building houses offices for the Ministry of Religious Affairs such as the Sharia Affairs Department and Religious Enforcement Division.

The Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque is one of the two state mosques in Brunei, the other being Jame' Asr Hassanil Bolkiah Mosque. Built by the 28th sultan of Brunei, this mosque was completed in 1958 at a cost of US$5 million. The mosque's design was significantly influenced by Mughal architecture. Recognisable by its gold dome that dominates the city's skyline, the mosque is one of the most photographed icons in the country.

The interior is decorated with rugs from Saudi Arabia and walls made of Italian marble. While the mosque is a popular tourist destination due to its façade, its main purpose is as a place of worship. The mosque can accommodate 3000 worshipers at a time and non-Muslims can enter only at specific timings. At the time of my visit, I couldn't enter but got a glimpse of the grandeur from the threshold of the mosque.

Adjoining the Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosques is a man-made lagoon. In it is the Royal Barge, a stone replica of a 16th-century Mahligai (barge) of Sultan Bolkiah. It was inaugurated by the Sultan on 18 December 1967. It functioned essentially as a pavilion for various religious events, including Quran recitation competitions. These religious events reinforced the government’s commitment to promote Islam as the state religion. The Royal Barge is connected to the mosque by a walkway. It was locked, even though the plaque near the gate indicates that it should be open.

Next on the walking itinerary was the Istana Darussalam, the former residence of Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddien III and the birthplace of Sultan of Brunei, Hassanal Bolkiah. The palace is located on the Brunei River waterfront, with the Supreme Court building on the opposite shore. The building is a tourist attraction, but can only viewed from outside its perimeter fence.  The historic green building is under the protection of the Antiquities and Treasure Trove Act of the Museums Department. The royal family no longer uses the building, although every Friday, representatives of the Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque hold the tahlil ritual there.

By now, around 2 pm, I was ravenously hungry and immensely thirsty, having sweated a lot in hot and humid conditions. Near the Istana I spied a local restaurant and walked in. Among the options was the national dish of Brunei called Ambuyat. It soon arrived on my table; a sticky, gelatinous, and bland starchy bowl that looked more like glue than anything edible. It is derived from the interior trunk of the sago palm. It is meant to be eaten with a portion of fermented durian sauce.

I asked for a spoon to eat the gooey stuff instead of using the chopstick like chandas, a special two-pronged bamboo fork. One small portion of the Ambuyat with the provided dip and I almost gave up. It was the most inedible thing I've ever had. I tried a couple of small portions more and left after paying for it. I've never wasted food. But this was a bit too much for my palate.

Last in my itinerary for the day was the Taman Jubli Perak, a public park located along the banks of the Kedayan River. The 5-hectare park was created to mark the silver jubilee of Sultan Hassanal Bolkiah's accession to the throne. At first, the park included just a fountain and a statue. It has since been transformed into a leisure space with jogging paths and a playground for kids.

It was a short walk from the park to the hotel. I was bathed in sweat and my legs were a bit wobbly from the 7 km round trip. It was time to rest a while. Later in the evening I went to the Hua Ho department store and bought some biscuits and chocolates for my grandchildren. Dinner consisted of a portion of Nasi Katok, bought from a Kaka store near the hotel.