Slept peacefully and got up
early, as usual, to complete the blog and Facebook post. Breakfast at Ryad 91
was part of the tariff, which was served on the rooftop terrace. When I went to
the rooftop at a quarter to 8 it was still dark and extremely cold. I got back
to the warm confines of the hotel room. When I saw some daylight at a quarter
past the hour I went back to the terrace and was greeted by the person in
charge of the restaurant. I was asked to take a seat of my choice. I chose to
sit under an awning made of hemp, instead of the open air, due to the cold.
I
asked for a cup of coffee with milk and sugar. Superb Moroccan coffee warmed
the insides a bit. Then came three types of Moroccan bread - Msemmen, Batbout
and Harsha - with white butter and strawberry jam. Msemmen is like the Kerala
Parotta, but square in shape. The traditional flatbread, native to the Maghreb
region, is folded into square pancakes with multiple internal layers and cooked
on a griddle.
Batbout is like a version of pitta bread; it’s
fluffier and richer but it is also very airy and tasty. Harsha is a pan or
griddle cooked semolina flatbread. Bread is a staple in the Moroccan diet. It
is said that breads are so integral to the Moroccan way of life that it is
never dumped in the garbage. The leftover bread is separated and fed to pets.
The wholesome breakfast ended with a glass of freshly squeezed orange juice.

It was still quite cold and a bit
windy, chilling the bones, when I started the day's itinerary. Literally a
stone's throw away from the Medina entrance is the Coupole Zavacco. Located in
the heart of the United Nations Square, the Zevaco Dome, was erected in 1975.
It is an architectural gem that blends Western and Moorish influences, in its
distinctive design, characterized by an elliptical dome. It was rehabilitated
and reopened to the public in 2021. The dome's role extends beyond its function
as a building; it also hosts art exhibitions and cultural events, making it a
hub for innovation and reflection. A true symbol of modernity and creativity,
the Zevaco Dome enriches Casablanca's urban landscape and remains an essential
heritage treasure.

The United Nations Square, a
public square in the central part of Casablanca, has been central to the
history of the city. The area outside the walls of the old medina that is now
United Nations Square, used to be the location of the Grand Souk before the
French colonization in 1908. Over time the square evolved from a marketplace to
a contact point between the European city and the Casablanca medina. By 2012
the Casablanca Tramway transformed the square. Thus, the United Nations Square
is the transformative centre between the old and the modern, so to say.

I walked to the Casablanca
Cathedral or the Sacred Heart Church, which was constructed in 1930. Religious
activities ceased here in 1956 when the country got independence from the
French. It is commonly referred to as a cathedral, although it has never
technically been one as it was never the seat of a bishop. Since 1956 the
'cathedral' has been a cultural centre open to visitors. Numerous art
exhibitions and music nights have been organised here. At the time of my visit,
I was flummoxed, as were a couple of other tourists too, when told that the
church is closed and that we should go to the Notre Dame church for worship.

Very next to the Sacred Heart
Church is the Arab league park, a green oasis in the centre of the city, spread
over 30 Ha. It has been a symbol of Casablanca for over a century. Painstaking
rehabilitation of a park gone into disrepair is going on, in line with the
fundamentals of landscaping from the beginning of the previous century, as well
as the contemporary standards of the environment and equipment.
A short brisk walk away is the
Mohammed V Square, named after the former king of Morocco. It was established
in 1916 at the beginning of the French protectorate in Morocco and symbolises
the expanding Europeanisation of the expanding city. The square is popularly
also known as Pigeons Square, due to the presence of a large number of these
birds in the square. Many important buildings and offices are placed around the
square such as the Court house, the Military HQ, Town Hall, Bank of al-Magjreb
and the Central Post office.

From the Mohammed V Square, I
walked to the Notre Dame of Lourdes cathedral; a Roman Catholic church in
modernist style built in 1954. The main attraction of Notre-Dame of Lourdes
church is the stained glasswork of world-famous artist Gabriel Loire. The
church's long concrete entrance is noteworthy as also the interplay of light
with the stained glass on the vaulted concrete ceiling. I spent some moments in
quiet reflection before trying in vain to meet the priest in the presbytery. I
noticed that the premises were not quite well kept.
The Central market of Casablanca
is a municipal market built between 1917 and 1920. Several important buildings
near the 'Central Marche' are under renovation and hence, walking to the
building meant many detours from the route dictated by Google Maps.
As I
entered the wet market area, I was assailed by smells of fresh and iced sea
fish. Besides, many vendors thrust menus under my nose to choose something from
their stall for an on-the-spot cooking and eating experience. The variety of
fish on display was awesome. The size of crabs and squids was enormous. I
walked to the fruits stalls and bought some strawberries and figs to take for
the road trip starting from the next day.
While the sightseeing part of the
day was over, I still had to go to the office of AirCars, the vendor from who I
had opted to rent the car from. It was Discover Cars that had got me the offer
from AirCars. It took me some time to find the office of the car rental
company.
Once there, I had a cordial chat with the company officials and
confirmed the deposit and the process of paperwork. I also arranged with them
to take the car the next day morning so that I don't pay parking fee for the
overnight stay near the hotel. I went back later in the evening and completed
the paperwork, inspection and handover formalities of the MG3 automatic that
had already been on the road for about 33,000 km.
I had dinner in the Ryad 91
restaurant. Looking to have something traditional, I ordered a plate of
couscous and a drink of ginger and lemon. Couscous is a traditional North
African dish of small, steamed granules of rolled semolina that is often served
with a stew spooned on top. Boiled cucumber and carrot and sauteed onions formed
the topping of the couscous plate served to me in a clay dish. Cooking such
traditional fare in earthenware imparts a different and distinct flavour to the
item.
With this, the first part of the Moroccan visit
has concluded. It was time to take to the road to visit some of the historic
cities of the country such as Marrakech, Rabat, Tangier, Fes and Meknes.
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