It was so heartbreaking to hear
the sound of falling rain almost throughout the night. A couple of times in the
night I opened the window of the room and confirmed that the city was
experiencing torrential rains. I thought that my sightseeing tours in Morocco are
over, thanks to the wet weather. That said, I got ready in time before 9 for the
healthy breakfast Ayman placed on the dining table. It had fresh orange juice,
Msemmen, omelette, harsha, bread, apricot jam, honey and butter. Plus, of
course, strong Moroccan coffee.
I lazed around in the living
area, had another coffee and struck up another conversation with Ayman. After
about 45 minutes the sound of rain ceased. Ayman said that the weather may
remain decent for the next couple of hours. I decided to take advantage of the
break in weather for a quick tour of the medina.
The fortifications of Fes comprise
a complex circuit of ramparts and gates surrounding Fes el-Bali and Fes
el-Jdid, two urban agglomerations that compose the old "medina" of Fes.
They also include a number of kasbahs (citadels) and forts which were built
over centuries and different periods to protect and control the city. There are
11 gates of Fes el-Bali and 10 of Fes el-Jdid.
Fes el-Bali is considered one of
the most extensive and best conserved historic towns of the Arab-Muslim world.
It is a UNESCO World Heritage site, the largest car-free urban area in the
world, covering 540 acres.
The Rabat,
Tangier and Casablanca medinas, in comparison, are small.
The mosaic tiled Blue Gate, aka
Bab Boujeloud, is the towering entryway to the Fes el-Bali. The blue on the
outside of the gate that greets visitors represents the color of the city of Fes,
which is famous for its pottery, painted with elegant cobalt blue designs. The
reverse side, which faces the medina, is green, the color of Islam. Built in
1913, the gate is a doorway between two equally colorful and dynamic scenes,
one that feels distinctly 21st century, and the other an intriguing mix of
different eras.
Once through "The Blue
Gate," the thrum of traffic is quickly replaced by the din of shopkeepers
selling their wares and the muffled footsteps of thousands of animals and
pedestrians making their way through the winding alleyways of the medina. From
the Bab Boujeloud entrance, there are two main alleyways into the medina, the
Tala'a Kbira and Tala'a Sghira.
My first target was the Bou
Inania Madrasa and water clock that was less than 100 meters from the
accommodation. Founded by the Merenid Sultan in the mid-14th century as
atonement for his sins, the Bou Inania Madrasa served as both an educational
center and a mosque. It is the only madrasa in Fes to have a minaret. The
madrasa retains its religious function but welcomes non-Muslims outside of
prayer times. The madrasa's iconic feature is its green-tiled tower.
The carved
cedar is also a feast for the eyes. The marble floor is equally beautiful.
Hand-crafted stucco adorns the walls, including the spaces between the columns.
Add to all this is the geometric patterns and calligraphy that make the Bou
Inania Madrasa a true showcase of ancient Arab craftsmanship. The ablution
fountain is fed directly by the Fes River. Just outside and opposite the
madrasa, is the hydraulic clock, which is currently under repair. It has
stunned scientists and researchers alike, who have tried to put the clock back
in working order.
The Nijjarine souk is where you
can appreciate the most exquisite work of craftsmanship. Different types of
wood are worked on to make the most exquisite decorative pieces in the small
workshops attached to some of the shops. Walking through the Souq, admiring the
creativity I came to the Nijjarine Fountain and fondouk, meaning inn.
It was
built in 1711 as a lodging house for travellers. It included a courtyard where
merchants stored and sold their wares. While commercial activity centred on the
ground level, merchants' quarters were upstairs. Today, the former fondouk is
the Nejjarine Museum of Wooden Arts and Crafts.
The Nejjarine fountain, covered
in zellij tilework, stands just outside the building. Although it might seem to
be an independent structure, its typical horseshoe arch and other details match
the fondouk's architecture, an intentional choice, since it was erected in the
first half of the 19th century. The fountain was used for ablutions. In 1916,
the Moroccan government recognized both the fondouk and fountain as national
monuments, restoring them at the end of the last millennia.
Coming out of the Nijjarine
square I caught sight of a vendor selling Moroccan pastries and sweets. I
couldn't resist the temptation of savouring one of them. I chose a piece of the
almond snake pastry, called M'hancha in Arabic. This sweet Moroccan pastry takes
its name from a traditional presentation of pastry-wrapped almond paste shaped
like a coiled snake.
As I was busy savouring the pastry
I was accosted by a ‘tout’ who said he would take me to experience firsthand
the process followed by the Chouara tannery. I was sceptical of the offer
thinking that he would demand money for the assistance. Nevertheless, I had to
learn about the famous tanneries of Fes too. He brought me to a shop and
introduced me to a personable young man called Ishmayel, who, over the next
half hour took me on a tour of the massive retail outlet and explained in
detail the natural processing of leather.
Before taking me to the rooftop of
the building he handed me a few strands of mint leaves. I did not understand
why he did that. When I reached the rooftop, I realised what that was for. The
stench that arose from the processing units was unbearable. The mint leaves are
used to mask the foul smell. Ishmayel told me how chemical processing of
leather, the world over, has sent the tanneries in Fes down a slippery slope of
decline. From over 120 tanneries 20 years ago, the number has come down to just
2. Chemical processing has reduced the time to ready the leather for work from
40 days to just 48 hours.
He explained that the tanneries have been functioning
in Fes for over 900 years. The Chouara area was renovated in 2016, but the
scene, viewed from the surrounding balconies, remains remarkably medieval.
Hundreds of hides were hung out, after the cleaning process, to dry in the sun,
which takes three days. The dyeing tanks is another feature to experience from
the rooftop. Ishmayel told me that the hides of goat, sheep, cow and camel are
used, but the goat skin and underside of the camel produce the best leather. It
is striking to see the hard physical labour that goes into the butter-soft,
elegant leather goods sold in the shops.
After the visit of the tannery
area, I walked to the Al Quarouyine University and mosque. It was established
in 859 by a lady, Fatima Al Fihria, a member of an elite family who emigrated
from the Tunisian city of Kairouan. The Al Quarouyine is the spiritual heart of
Fes and, arguably, all Morocco. It is also considered the world's oldest
university, though it began as a simple madrasa. It expanded over centuries and
has a capacity of 20,000 now. As with most Moroccan mosques, only Muslims are
permitted to enter here. Visitors can have a glimpse of the mosque's courtyard
from the massive entrance door.
A fair distance from the Blue
Gate is the Jnan Sbil Gardens, also known as the Bou Jeloud Gardens. It is a
public space between Fes el-Jdid and Fes el-Bali, the two parts of the old
Medina. Founded in the late 19th century the gardens were initially only
accessible to the nobility. They were opened to the public in 1917. Over 3000
species of flora are found in the park, accompanied by colorful fountains. The
Oued Fes river supplies water to the gardens and there are historic water
wheels in the gardens where the park touches the river.
The beauty of the historic city
of Fes is best had from panoramic viewpoints on the hill opposite the Medina.
The Panoramic View in Fes, set above the bustling streets and vibrant markets,
offers breathtaking views that encapsulate the rich tapestry of Fes. The
sweeping vista of the medina, winding alleys, and the majestic backdrop of the
Atlas Mountains provide an unforgettable experience.
Likewise, the Shpigel lookout,
perched gracefully on the hilltop near the Bjor Nord, affords breathtaking and
panoramic views of the medina and the sprawling landscape beyond. The sight of
the iconic Koutoubia Mosque and the surrounding hills is simply captivating,
making it a perfect spot for photography enthusiasts and nature lovers alike.
The Merenid tombs, visible from
the Medina as well as from the lookout points mentioned above, are closed for
renovation.
Thanks to the let up in the
weather, almost all of what I wanted to experience in Fes was done. The Royal
Palace and a couple of other sites were skipped as they were quite far from the
Medina. However, it had been a full day, and all that remained was another
visit to Mom's Touch, the awesome restaurant I had been to last night. This night
I ordered Millefuelle d'Aubergines for starter and Pastilla de Poulet for the
main course with a lemonade of citron and ginger. Every bit of the meal was as
awesome as could be expected. That signalled the end of the Fes leg of the ATM
Tour.
On the return walk to the Dan
Mansoura, I picked up a piece each of Ghoriba Bahla cookie and chocolate peanut
brownie for dessert, to be had in the room.
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