ATM TOUR IN THE NEW YEAR

The plan had been to travel to five South American countries in December 2025. The itinerary was done and hotels were booked too. However, before the tickets were booked, I had to recast the plan due to certain official duties that had to be attended to on priority. The sanctioned leave was cancelled and rescheduled for three weeks in January 2026. This time the plan was made for ATM - Algeria, Tunisia and Morocco. Nine nights in Morocco and four nights each in the other two.

As I always do, I depended on Rajiv Shah of Network Tours and Travels to guide me through the visa process for the three countries, flight booking and overseas medical insurance. He has been an unfailing support in organising my travels around the world. This time around, he organised visas, online for Morocco, Tunisian embassy in New Delhi and VFS for Algeria. As directed by Rajiv, I prepared documents, filled out the visa application forms and couriered them to him along with the passport.

The Tunisian Visa took just five days to process - it was anticipated to take much longer. The online Morocco Visa also didn't take much time, either. The surprise was the Algerian visa which was applied through VFS. Normally, it should take less than 10 working days to process. However, even after 15 working days the visa had not been stamped. I discussed with Rajiv the possibility of requesting for the passport to be returned, cancelling the application for visa. The date for travel was nearing and the ticket rates were spiking too. The itinerary would be in total disarray if the visa was not received soon.

Rajiv got in touch with the visa section of the Algerian embassy. He was told that the air ticket attached to the visa application had lapsed and that a fresh one would have to be reissued. He did as instructed and I emailed the fresh tickets to the embassy. Within a day the visa was issued and I could breathe easy on 17 December 2025. Rajiv soon issued firm tickets from Mumbai to Algiers and Casablanca to Cochin. I used Trip.com to book flights from Algiers to Tunis and Tunis to Casablanca.

When I plan an international trip, I make out two lists, apart from the detailed itinerary, which includes the hotels booked for the overnight stays. The other lists are the To Do list and the Packing list. The To Do list includes items like Visas, Flights, Car booking, Hotel booking, Insurance, etc. By the time the visas arrived and the flight bookings were confirmed, I had already repacked the bag a couple of times after getting weather updates from the countries I was travelling to! As it would be cool to cold with possibility of rain in ATM, inners, warm jackets, quick dry outfits and a raincoat found their place in the bag first.

The connectivity from Gandhidham, where I work and stay, to international airports is a matter of grave concern. The nearest airport is, of course, Kandla. This is always ruled out due to inconsistent flight schedule of Spicejet to Mumbai and the prohibitive cost. The latter is also the reason to reject flights from Bhuj and Rajkot to Mumbai. Another negative is the mismatch between domestic and international baggage allowance. 

Finally, I went down to Ahmedabad by car and took the Shatabdi Express to Mumbai. The Vistadome coach was good, but showed signs of wear and tear, particularly the toilet - the commode seat was wrapped in cellophane tape! The coach could also do with a spray of freshener. Stale smell hung heavily inside the coach. The food was surprisingly good. A particular gentleman, travelling with his family, was so effusive in his praise of the snacks and dinner that he asked for seconds, reminding me of Oliver Twist.

I took an auto from the Borivali station, where I disembarked from the train, and reached the Chatrapati Shivaji Maharaj international airport with almost nine hours to go for the flight. Entry into the airport is permitted only within four hours of the flight. Fortunately, in the Mumbai airport there are many eateries and restaurants where one can either spend time doing your own stuff or fill your belly with different types of cuisine.

The McDonald's is highly recommended to while away time. However, since the weather was good, I spent time in the open seating designated for Steet Foods by Punjab Grill. It wasn't so busy and hence, my unsolicited presence there went unnoticed. They don't provide very comfortable seating so that one leaves as soon as his business is done. I was forced to sit there for nearly four hours before I gained entry into the airport.

I was astonished to learn that Indigo Airlines operated a code share flight for Turkish Airlines at 6.45 am and Turkish Airlines operates its own flight at 7 am, both to Istanbul. The check-in counters were moderately busy. However, the security and immigration clearances were quickly done. I spent some time in the food court, polishing off some of the food I had with me.

The boarding was totally confusing and a wee bit chaotic because the Indigo Airlines and Turkish Airlines boarded from adjacent gates. Personally, I saw now excuse for the Indigo flight to push back 40 minutes behind schedule. The flight was full and cabin space vanished in double quick time. The flight arrived in Istanbul about 50 minutes late.  However, the speed with which the security screening was done for international transfer negated the concern regarding the late arrival. As the plane taxied to the aerobridge a huge shower drenched the aircraft. From the flaying coveralls of the airport staff, it could be understood that it was exceptionally windy too.

The Istanbul airport is big, but not grand. However, it is an airport with a soul, it doesn't overwhelm you. The new year and Christmas decorations are still on display. Of particular interest to me was the battery-operated wheel chairs, which transported those in need smoothly and without any strain on the operator. Prominent markings on the floor demarcated two-way buggy paths and they travel along those paths. They don't swerve and get on to the general pedestrian pathway. All in all, there is a positive vibe in the airport.

Even though the boarding of the Turkish Airlines flight to Algiers had started in time for an on-time departure, passengers settled late into their seats due to shortage of cabin baggage space. Arranging and rearranging baggage and blocking the aisles led to some delay in departure. The airline staff were extremely courteous and hospitable, unlike the grouchy and, at times, rude Indigo staff. Being a budget airline, possibly, they were economical with smiles and hospitable behaviour, too!

On the four-hour flight to Algiers a decent meal, with choice of bacon and cheese pasta and chicken, was served. When I had the pasta, I also set aside the prohibition I had placed on non-vegetarian food, besides observing a few other restrictions, for the advent. It was indeed a joy to fly beside the beautiful Mediterranean coast of Italy and the landmass of the islands of Sardegna, Palma and Mao. I noticed that the cities of Paris, Barcelona, Palma and Algiers lie almost in a straight line from North to South. The flight landed just 10 minutes late at the Houari Boumediene International Airport. The airport is named after Algeria's second President of independent Algeria who was in power from 1965 to 1976.

Algeria, the largest country in Africa and the 10th largest in the world (India is 40 percent bigger in land size), is a land full of history, culture, and natural beauty. It stretches between its vast Sahara Desert, which covers about 80% of the country’s land area, to its Mediterranean coastline. Algeria is one of the world’s largest producers of natural gas, making it economically important both in Africa and internationally. Its mix of Arab, Berber, and French influences also gives the country a unique cultural identity.

Religion in Algeria is dominated by Muslims, with nearly ninety-eight percent of the population adhering to Sunni Islam. Only 5 per cent of the population speaks decent English. The Algerian Dinar is the currency used in Algeria. 1 DZD is equivalent to about 0.70 INR; consequently 1 USD fetches nearly 130 DZD in exchanges. The Algerian dinar coins range from 1 DZD to 200 DZD. Smaller denominations, like 5 and 10 dinar coins, are commonly used for everyday purchases. Banknotes are available in denominations of 200, 500, 1,000, and 2,000 dinars.

Algeria's main occupations center around its hydrocarbon-driven economy, with significant employment in Services, Industry, and Agriculture. Algeria’s national dish, couscous, is considered one of the most popular traditional foods across North Africa.

Algiers served as the capital of the French colony of Algeria for over a century between 1830 and 1962. During this time, it developed French colonial architecture alongside its older structures. The country gained independence from France in 1962. The capital city of Algiers is a city of striking contrasts, blending history with modernity. It is famous for its Ottoman-era Casbah, French colonial architecture, and lively markets.

Located along the Mediterranean Sea, Algiers is a beautiful city known as ‘Alger la Blanche’ or ‘Algiers the White,' because of its whitewashed buildings overlooking the sea. The city, both stunning and full of character, serves as the administrative, economic, and cultural hub of Algeria. With a population of over 3 million, it’s also the largest city in the country.

The immigration and baggage collection didn't take much time. I was out of the airport in about 30 minutes. Youcef Sabour, a taxi driver in Algiers, had messaged me on WhatsApp, when I was in Mumbai offering his service to drop me to the hotel from the airport. How he got my number, I don't know. So, I was a bit wary. He even offered to exchange cash for me at a 60 percent premium. It sounded too good to be true. I messaged the hotel in Algiers to verify his credentials but got no response. Therefore, I let things unfold as best as it could. As soon as I was exiting the airport, spacious and clean, I was approached by many ‘brokers’ offering currency exchange and taxi services. Youcef had told me where to find him and I soon did. 

Youcef was a fund of information. He told me places to see, restaurant near the hold, what to eat, how to commute and so much more. He constantly kept pointing out landmarks such as the Great Mosque, the Martyrs Memorial, Jardin Desi, the Port of Algiers and the Old Post Office. He told me that people were about in numbers as it was the last day of vacation. Sunday is the beginning of the week. The road from the airport to the hotel was top class, with lanes marked clearly and people mostly sticking to lanes and driving responsibly.

The Hotel Africa is right in the Casbah, the heritage of Algiers. As he dropped me off in front of the hotel, Youcef exchanged 200 USD for me and gave me 210 DZD against the official exchange rate of 130 DZD to a dollar! When asked why such black market in currency was rampant, he told me that if he wants to buy a car or house, he needs USD or Euro, which the banks don't give. So, he does a side business of changing currency with visitors. A pleasant and personable young man, I asked him to give me an airport drop in 7th when I have to take an early morning flight to Tunis. He said whenever I wanted him he would be available on WhatsApp. A heaven sent, surely. My miracle for the day. 

In the hotel I was allotted a room on the 6th floor and there was no lift. The guy at the desk offered to lug my suitcase up the winding flights. I was out of steam on the second floor. I somehow managed to reach the small cubby hole room and wondered I would manage the stay of four nights. Even though the room was small, it was neat and clean. The last time I remembered staying in such a place was decades ago in Kuala Lumpur in the late nineties.

After depositing the bags, I went down for a short walk in the Casbah. At the reception, the guy who had helped me with the bag bowed deep with hands folded and called me Maharaj! He found it extremely funny that, as a tourist, I was carrying such a lot of luggage. It was nippy and I felt drops of rain on my face. I had forgotten to take my warm jacket, but managed nevertheless. The thought of climbing six flights of stairs had thickened my skin.

The narrow alleys of the Casbah are a maze. The smell of food wafted from every lane. Grilled chicken, shawarma, freshly made breads, sardine and soup and traditional Algerian foods were on offer. One can never starve in the Casbah. Even the aromas of the food being prepared is good to sate your hunger. The bronze equestrian statue of Emir Abdelkader stands in the heart of Algiers, near the Town Hall. It honours the 19^th century religious and military leader who led the struggle against French colonisation. The statue is a key national symbol.

After walking around some more, savouring the colonial architecture in the city centre – the buildings are being renovated by the Algerian Government - I bought a bottle of water and returned to the hotel room to rest for the night.  On the trudge back I came across the Museum of Modern Art of Algiers (MaMa), which is an art museum in Algiers. The building, built between 1901 and 1909, was first used as a department store called Galeries de France.

It had been an incredibly long journey beginning in Gandhidham at 8 am the previous morning.