The
first bus that came to the stand had La Marsa as its final destination. I
decided to play safe and continue through to La Marsa. It was a 40-minute ride
and I got down at the very last halt. There were not many people
around. But shops were open and I walked in the general direction of the La
Marsa Corniche.Large jars and pots for plants, baskets and lamp shades made of
hemp were all so attractive. I was tempted to buy a couple of baskets but dropped the idea due to baggage restrictions. The square minaret of the Ahmadi
Mosque is prominent in the town. It can be seen from almost anywhere. I kept
that as my central marker to return to the bus stand later. The Abdelhafidh El
Mekki Street with traditional cafes and small restaurants was getting busy.
La Marsa is a coastal town
situated along the Mediterranean Sea. It is part of the Tunis Governorate with
a population of around 100,000 people. The city is known for its beaches,
upscale residential areas, and lively atmosphere, with numerous restaurants,
cafes, and shops. Soon I reached the Corniche, which has a terrace with benches
for people to enjoy the heavenly views of the Mediterranean.
The La Marsa beach
was just getting ready to welcome visitors. Kiosks selling artefacts had
already sprung up. A few tourists were up and about on the beach. In fact,
there are recommendations to stay either in La Marsa or Sidi Bou Said as an
alternative to Tunis. I feel that call must be taken with what the objective of
the vacation is. If it's beaches or a laid back few days the alternative to Tunis
is certainly on the cards. However, of one has to experience the Medina, the
Kasbah and the New City, Tunis is the place.
I walked around the La Marsa
beach a bit and went closer to the Koubet El Hooua, a massive construction on
the beach, on piles. Referred to as the Dome of Air, the Koubet El Hooua, is a
Tunisian heritage monument dating back to the 18th century. It was built on the
lines of the gardens of the Beylical Palace of El Ouarda, in Manouba.
Its
construction was commissioned by Hammouda Pasha. It is known for its five domes
(one large and four small). Moreover, it represents one of the rarest examples
of Tunisian architecture. It was a Beylical palace where the beys could enjoy,
day and night, the refreshing sea air that surrounded it on all sides.
They
could also indulge in the pleasure of swimming away from prying eyes. It was
taken over by the Tunisian government in 1963 and since then changed hands to
private individuals. It is now in a state of disrepair and locals are alarmed
at the neglect of the historical monument.
After about an hour I walked back
to the town centre, bought a packet of chips and biscuits to munch on and moved
to a bus stop. The idea was to take the bus to the archaeological site of
Carthage. At the bus stop I asked a lady if that indeed was the bus stop. When
she affirmed it, I sat down on an elevated step and waited for the bus.
When
the bus was arriving, the lady came up to me and asked where I was going. When
I told her that I was going to Carthage she told me that I had to cross the
road and take a bus going in the opposite direction! Indeed, a Guardian Angel;
she need not have done that for me. The invisible hand always watches.
I got on to the bus towards
Carthage and found the same conductor who was on the bus the day before, when I
travelled to Sidi Bou Said. I requested him to let me know where to get down
and he did.
From where I got down the Roman Theatre was just a hundred meters
away. At the entrance, where I thought I could buy the ticket, there was no
one. But an English-speaking guide cum driver told me that the ruins are too
far to walk and that he could take me to 9 sites for 60 TND. I politely told
him that I was not interested in all the sites and that I would only be going
to a few of them, where I could foot it.
The magnificent Carthage theatre,
built by the Romans in the second century AD to seat 5,000 spectators, has
stood the test of time. Its complex architectural system of steps and caves
protects it against earthquakes. It was largely used in ancient times for
theatrical performances and other cultural events such as poetry readings and
philosophical debates. It was vandalised in the 5th century. After major
restoration it is presently set up to host a variety of events.
Less than a km away from the
Roman Theatre was the entry to the best preserved of all the Carthage ruins,
the Baths of Antonine. At the entrance to the complex the backpack was
screened. The security guard gave me directions to explore the Bath complex. He
said that the site has relics of the Phoenician era, the Byzantine era and the
Roman times. While the necropolia belonged to the Phoenician era, the Doumines
Bascilica belonged to Christan times. The major attraction in the site, the
Baths, was the Roman contribution. He offered his services as a guide in case I
chose to visit other sites.
I bought a 12 TND ticket, which
was valid for 10 major Carthage attractions and walked into the massive
complex. The baths were commissioned by the Roman Emperor Hadrian. These public
baths were built in 216 AD and were originally called the Antonine Baths. It
was a popular wellness centre among Romans. It is the largest set of Roman
baths built on the African continent and one of three largest built in the
Roman Empire. They are the largest outside mainland Italy. Fronting the
Mediterranean Sea, at multiple levels, one can imagine an experience in the
Baths, which had rooms to cool the body, a place for naked wrestling and
another for the sauna. The Baths was supplied with water via the great Zaghouan
Aqueduct. The Baths were destroyed by the Vandals in early 5th century.
I walked in the general direction
of the Punic Ports of Carthage, about 2 km from the Baths. On the way were many
viewing terraces and platforms from where the magnificence of the Mediterranean
could be enjoyed. With the bright and sunny weather and a light rolling wind,
the walk didn't take too much effort. It was mostly flat land too. On the way I
bought Brik and a lamb cutlet to keep the stomach from complaining. The Brik
was exceptionally tasty.
When I reached the premises of
the ports the old history lessons came alive in my mind, that of the Punic wars
and Hannibal. And, also Moriera Sir, who taught me the lessons in Mar Ivanios
College, Trivandrum. The ports of Carthage were arranged in such a way that
ships could pass from one to the other; they were accessed from the sea through
an entrance about 21 m wide, which was closed with an iron chain.
The first
port was reserved for merchant ships. In the middle of the inner harbour was an
island. The island and the harbour were bordered by large ports. Along these
ports were hangars, which could accommodate 220 warships. The island was
located in front of the entrance and was at a higher altitude; the admiral
could see what was happening at sea, while those arriving from beyond could not
clearly distinguish the interior of the port.
Hannibal, a Carthaginian general
and stateman, is considered one of the greatest military tacticians and
generals of Western antiquity, alongside Alexander the Great, Julius Caesar,
Scipio Africanus, and Pyrrhus. His military strategy was on the lines of the
Latin phrase Festina Lente, an oxymoron meaning 'hasten slowly', meaning to act
with urgency but also with care and deliberation, ensuring quality over
speed
to avoid mistakes.
The Salammbo sacrificial
structure or the Carthage Tophet is an ancient sacred area dedicated to the
Phoenician deities located near the Punic ports. This tophet, a "hybrid of
sanctuary and necropolis", contains a large number of children's tombs who
were sacrificed or buried here after their untimely death. The place was partly
flooded at the time of visit due to rains in the preceding days. Restoration
works are also on.
When I was ready to leave the
site, I didn't know how far the bus stop is or in which direction it lay. When I
looked up from my phone, trying to get Google to solve the puzzle for me, a
young man appeared almost from nowhere. I asked him if he could tell me where
the bus stand is. I didn't understand what he replied but I stared following
him. In ten minutes, he deposited me near the bus stop and walked away.
Guardian Angels show up thus too.
It had been a long day with miles
and miles of walk. The legs were fatigued and I yearned to rest in the
accommodation. I still had about 2 km to walk to it from the Tunis Grand Marine
bus stop. I managed it with a halt to sample Tunisian gelato. I found it a bit
too sweet and too cold for the weather.
The
first bus that came to the stand had La Marsa as its final destination. I
decided to play safe and continue through to La Marsa. It was a 40-minute ride
and I got down at the very last halt. There were not many people
around. But shops were open and I walked in the general direction of the La
Marsa Corniche.
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