ATM Tour – Tunis – Day 1 – 7 January 2026

I had two challenges to overcome early in the morning to take the 7.10 am Air Algerie flight from Algiers to Tunis. First, I had to ensure that Yousef, the taxi driver, would turn up at the appointed time of 4 am at the hotel. Second, was to carry 20 kgs of suitcase and 7 kgs of backpack down six flights of stairs without disturbing other inmates of the hotel. In the end, both turned out just fine. Even though it strained me a great deal I managed to bring the suitcase down without any glitch.

I called Youcef at a quarter to 4 and he arrived soon in front of the hotel. It was cold and wet. It had evidently rained the whole night. Youcef got me to the airport in quick time as traffic was sparse at that hour. Within a few minutes of reaching the airport the check-in counters opened, and I was one of the first ones to check-in. Immigration and security check also did not take much time. At the gate I came to know that the flight was delayed for 20 minutes.

Tunisia is ranked as the most competitive economy in Africa. Tunisia is home to 12 million people; 99 percent of the population professional Sunni Islam. The country's main exports include automobile parts, textiles, garments, petroleum and agricultural products. Tunisia became the first Arab state to formally abolish polygamy in 1956, the same year it gained official independence.

The Tunisian currency is the Tunisian Dinar (TND), subdivided into 1,000 millimes, with common banknotes including 5, 10, 20, and 50 dinars, and coins for millimes (5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200 millimes, ½ dinar, 1, 2, 5 dinars) used for smaller transactions. A key feature is that the TND is a restricted currency, meaning you cannot freely import or export it, with all exchanges needing to happen within Tunisia. 1 USD converts to 2.91 TND and 1 TND equals 30.9 INR.

Tunisia is not a "dry country" as alcohol is legal, though its sale is banned on Fridays and during the month of Ramadan. Alcohol is available in licensed shops, supermarkets, hotels, and restaurants, particularly in tourist areas. Local beer is widely available, with the most iconic brand being Celtia.

Tunis is the sprawling capital of Tunisia. It sits along Lake Tunis, just inland from the Mediterranean Sea’s Gulf of Tunis. It’s home to a centuries-old medina and the Bardo, an archaeology museum where celebrated Roman mosaics are displayed in a 15th-century palace complex. The parklike ruins of ancient Carthage sit in the city’s northern suburbs.

Tunis is special for its rich historical and cultural heritage, blending influences from many civilizations like the Phoenicians, Romans, Ottomans, and French. It features a unique mix of ancient and modern architecture, with the historic Medina and ancient ruins like Carthage contrasting with the modern European-style buildings of the new city. The city also boasts notable landmarks, vibrant markets, and is a gateway to the country's famous beaches.  "Grand Tunis", has about 2,700,000 inhabitants. As of 2020, it is the third-largest city in the Maghreb region (after Casablanca and Algiers).

Eventually, the flight took off from Algiers at the time it should have landed in Tunis, 80 minutes late. Youcef, during the ride to the airport, had told me of a bus service between Algiers and Tunis which would take about 10 hours. The flight landed in exactly 60 minutes in the Tunis Carthage International Airport. Three flights had landed within a space of a few minutes and that put pressure on the immigration counters, called police control. When my turn came, the officer asked proof of accommodation in Tunis and the purpose of my stay.

By the time I cleared immigration my bag appeared on the carousel. The Matrix Sim card was working efficiently and connected to the Orange network immediately on landing. Thus far, touch wood, it has been a great boon in transit in Istanbul, Turkey and in Algiers and Tunis. Before I took a taxi I needed to exchange curry. And that is how I met my Guardian Angel of the day. I saw a BH Bank counter near the baggage carousel and walked to it. I noticed that the bank offered to buy USD for 2.88 TND, which I thought was a good rate. The young man there confirmed that the bank did not charge a commission.

He handed me a thick wad of currency notes in exchange for the USD. When I asked him why he gave me 10s and not higher denominations he told me that I would, as a tourist, find it difficult to get change. Really thoughtful of him. He also gave me a cover to carry the large number of currency notes safely in the bag. Since I found him helpful, confirming the stereotype of Tunisians being the friendliest people in the whole of Africa, I sought his advice on how to find a taxi to get to the accommodation. He told me to go a level up and find yellow cabs that are reasonably priced. Moreover, he told me that there would be a lot of touts waiting at the arrivals to put me into a pricier taxi.

I took his advice and found a yellow cab, that had just dropped off a fare. I showed the driver the destination and the route, but he seemed uninterested. He wanted to speak to the owner of the accommodation. I connected him and both of them spoke to each other for quite a long time.

In the end I found that the driver was taking a longer route than what Google maps had indicated. I understood from him that he was taking a less busier route; I was not convinced. I went along for a while till I found that he was taking detour after detour. Then I spoke to him sternly and asked him to follow the route shown by Google maps. He was displeased and started elbowing me. I didn’t know whether it was a mannerism or he was being provocative.

Finally, I connected the owner of the accommodation once again to the driver when the maps showed that I was only 700 meters from the accommodation. The owner, Ayman, agreed to come to the end of a street where he would pick me up. By this time the driver and I were at daggers drawn. I got down at a place where the driver told me I would be met by Ayman. I disembarked and paid the taxi driver 10 dinars and was looking for the change to pay him one more, when he suddenly took off. Well, I got the ride for much less than I had anticipated and had read it would be. From that point, it was nearly a km to the accommodation through narrow streets made slushy by the rain.

I wondered if I had made a wrong choice in selecting the accommodation. That misgiving was dispelled when we reached Dar Meriem, Ayman's two-bedroom apartment with a kitchen and living area. Extremely well laid out, spacious, adequately furnished, neat and clean, the accommodation is. This was more than I had anticipated. Ayman and his family lived in the apartment adjacent to the one I had rented. In a while, I got ready to start the sightseeing itinerary I had made out.

Ayman accompanied to familiarise me of the neighbourhood. He showed me some of the eating joints and cafes I could try some Tunisian food in. He also showed me the banks where I could exchange money if I needed to and cautioned me to be aware of my surroundings. He said that the Medina is an extremely crowded place where visitors have lost their wallets and mobiles. Involuntarily, I lodged my phone in the jacket pocket! After taking leave of Ayman, I spent the next four hours exploring the Medina and the Kasbah, two of the most important localities of Tunis.

First things first, as I had not had breakfast, I wanted to have a solid hot meal prior to starting the exploration. I went to one of the small eateries Ayman had recommended and ordered a chapatti with Tuna, egg and cheese. The solid filled flat bread portion was a bit too much for me. However, I sat at one of the outdoor tables and polished it off, taking more than usual time over it. Thus fortified, I walked around like a spring chicken exploring the Medina and the Kasbah. The next few hours were nothing short of education and wonderment.

I started my tour of the Medina from the Victory Square, which is an interface between the Medina and the modern part of Tunis. Victory Square marks the return from exile of leader Habib Bourguiba on June 1, 1955. It is a busy square with cafes surrounding it and the Bab El Bhar guarding it. It is one of the gates of the Medina and consists of a low arch surmounted by a crenelated parapet. The gate overlooks Lake Tunis.

The next destination was the Central Market of Tunis, Marché Central as it is called, through narrow lanes and jostling crowds. It is a historic, bustling market famous for its fresh produce, fish, spices and fresh fruits and vegetables. The wet market was really wet possibly due to the rain and melting ice on which the seafood was laid out on. Undoubtedly, the market housed in the Art Deco/Arabesque buildings dating back to 1891 offers a unique sensory experience with distinct sections for fish, central goods (olives, cheese, spices), and fruits/vegetables.

I was disappointed at the next stops in the itinerary. The Dar Ben Abdallah Museum is a 19th century palace located in the heart of the medina, which was turned into a museum of popular arts and traditions. When I reached there, I found that the attraction has been temporarily closed. The L'Art Rue established its headquarters in 2015 in the historic Dar Bach Hamba residence, which is considered on EOD the most beautiful palaces in Tunis. I rang the doorbell a few times, but there was no response and I had to leave disappointed.

The Madrassa Slimania was the first of the four madrasas built during the Ottoman era in 1754. The Madrasa is known for its porch located at a higher level compared to the street. This porch offers access to a richly decorated entrance with an Ottoman touch. Besides its noteworthy columns and capitals a striking feature is its green roof tiles cornice. The central courtyard has a striking painting of a lady's face.

In close proximity to Madrasa Slimania is the Madrasa al Bachiya, another one of the Ottoman era quartet of madrasas. The building showcases the classical architecture of a madrasa: the courtyard gives access to the rooms through porticos surrounding three sides while the fourth gave access to the prayer room and the library.

I found the madrasa very lively with the courtyard full of potted plants. The entrance and the corridors have collected artefacts and paintings lending it a very artistic and vibrant touch.

The Zitouna mosque is not open to non-Muslims. However, a side entrance is open for visitors to appreciate the courtyard and the surrounding building and the modern minaret. The mosque is the oldest in Tunisia, dating back to the 7th century. It was later reconstructed too in the 9th century using columns from Carthage. The 43-meter-high square minaret is a relatively new addition, having been built in 1894. The mosque developed into a place of higher education, and the University of Ez-Zitouna became the most important educational institution in Tunisia from around the 13th century onward.

Not far from it is the Hammouda Pacha Mosque, built in 1655. It is known for its Turkish architecture and an octagonal minaret and rectangular hall of prayer.

The Government Palace or Dar el Bey in Kasbah is a historic palace that serves as the headquarters for the office of the Head of Government and the Prime Minister. It has symbolized political power in Tunisia since the 13th century. The palace was built in the 17th century and is considered one of the most beautiful Moorish-style princely residences in the world. The area is known as the "Ministry District" because numerous public institutions and administrative offices, including the Ministry of Finance, are located there.

The Kasbah Mosque was built in the early 13th century. Initially, the mosque was a place of prayer reserved for the rulers who lived in the Kasbah, but it later became a public mosque for the Friday prayer open to the whole city.

The Kasbah Square is an active public square, established in the late 1950s following the demolition of the citadel of Tunis ramparts and adjacent buildings. Since the 2011 revolution, the square has been a site for various political demonstrations. The square's centrepiece is the National Monument of the Kasbah, which serves as a memorial monument and symbol of several events in Tunisia.

Within the Kasbah square complex is the Tunis city hall. The impressive structure, built during the French colonial period in the early 20th century, serves as the seat of government for the city of Tunis.

Just outside the Kasbah square and in front of the Sadiki College is the mausoleum of Farhat Hached, a trade union activist and one of the first proponents of the independence movement along with Habib Bourguiba and Salah ben Youssef. He was assassinated in 1952 by a French terrorist organisation operated by the French intelligence agency. In 2002 the mausoleum was constructed anew to mark the 50th year of Farhat's assassination.

The Sadiki College is the first modern High school in Tunisia, established by a decree in 1875. It is the first Tunisian institution to provide modern education in Arabic, French, literature, science, mathematics, and the study of the Quran. Education is free and its original capacity was 150 students, including thirty boarders.

Souk des Chechias (the market for woollen hats) is thought to have been established in the early 17th century. The production of the chechia (a type of Tunisian hat) gave rise to a whole chain of labour division in Tunisia. It is still a lively market despite a visible decline in the hat making industry.

The last place of visit in the Medina for the day was the Sidi Youssef Dey mosque. Its minaret is the first octagonal minaret to be built in Tunis. The octagonal tower rises above a square base. It ends with a balcony protected by a wooden awning; the whole is crowned by a lantern with pyramidal roof covered with green tiles. It is significant in that it was the first Ottoman Mosque to be built in Tunis.

While returning to the accommodation I picked up a ham and cheese Malfouf, which is a popular street food sandwich. It is made with a freshly cooked, thin, pan-fried flatbread stuffed with ingredients like fries cheese, olives, spicy harissa, and diced onions. The massive wrap cost about Rs. 120. At Harouns, a popular dessert shop, I picked up two tarts; one a fruit tart and the other a caramel tart. That was the end to a mighty long day.