ATM Tour – Algiers – Day 1 – 4 January 2026

The Afric Hotel is right in the Casbah, which is the historic citadel and old city (medina) of Algeria's capital. It is a UNESCO World Heritage site known for its labyrinthine, whitewashed alleys, Ottoman-era architecture, mosques (like the Great Mosque), and rich, layered history dating back to Phoenicians and Romans. It is perched on a hill overlooking the Mediterranean. Despite facing challenges from neglect and conflict, the Casbah represents the heart of Algerian identity and struggle.  In essence, the Casbah is more than ruins; it's the resilient, beating heart of Algiers.

The plan for the day was well laid out, a walking tour of some of the more important sights in the Casbah. A short walk from the Hotel, I passed a bustling market basically selling fresh vegetables and fruits. Taking one of the Casbah's many steep stairways, I came to the Ketchaoua Mosque. Completed in the 17th century, during the Ottoman period, the mosque is noted for its unique fusion of Moorish and Byzantine architecture. The mosque was built by Hyderrine Barbarossa in 1612. It served as a mosque from 1612 to 1831, as a cathedral of St. Phillipe during the French rule from 1832 to 1962 and has been a serving mosque since then.

It was closing time in the mosque, but the caretaker let me in for a short while through the side entrance to appreciate the beauty of the mosque's chambers and arcades of white marble columns. The principal entrance to the mosque is through a flight of 23 steps. At the entrance is an ornamented portico supported by four black-veined marble columns. An earthquake in 2003 damaged the mosque and forced its temporary closure.

Dar Aziza is a 16th-century Moorish palace located almost opposite the mosque. Presently it houses the National Agency of Archaeology and Protection of Historic Sites and Monuments. The Dar Aziza, arguably the most iconic surviving building of its era in Algiers, was part of a large governmental compound known as Janina Palace, which existed before the arrival of Turkish corsairs.

The mosque overlooks the public square in the Casbah, with the sea in front. The Martyrs' Square, formerly known as the Government Square during French occupation, is a historic square covering an area of approximately one thousand square meters. Over the years, it has served various purposes, reflecting the evolution of Algerian society and its struggle for independence.

At the heart of the Martyrs' Square stands the Musical Kiosque, a pavilion that once hosted a wide range of concerts organized by Algerian musicians. This iconic structure symbolizes the cultural vibrancy of Algiers and serves as a reminder of the city's rich musical heritage. The square's layout and architectural elements reflect its historical significance as a central gathering place for the people of Algiers.

The Martyrs Square Metro station is in close proximity to the square and so is the Djema Djedid mosque, which was completed in 1660 according to an inscription over its main entrance portal, during the Ottoman administration. During the French colonial rule, the mosque was called the Mosque of the Fisherman's Wharf.

A stone's throw away is the Djamaa el Kbir or Great Mosque of Algiers. It is one of the oldest mosques in Algeria. Built in 1097, it is one of the few remaining examples of Almoravid architecture. It has undergone other additions and reconstructions since its foundation. The gallery outside the mosque was built in 1837 during French colonial rule, as a part of the complete reconstruction of the street by the French. 

During the Ottoman rule the Casbah was protected by a network of five gates, each playing a crucial role in the defence and trade between the city, the port, and the interior of the country. These gates - Bab El Djedid, Bab El Bahr, Bab El Djezira, Bab El Oued, and Bab Azzoun - were closed every evening after the Isha prayer and reopened at dawn by an officer on duty. They formed the first line of defence against invaders and ensured control over the entry of foreign visitors. The Bab D'zira was demolished during the French occupation. What stands there now is a stylized reconstruction.

Close to the Bab D'zira is the Algerian Naval Centre. I did not notice it. When I was preparing to take photographs of parked boats in the beautiful backdrop of the Mediterranean Sea, a military officer rushed to me and told me to get off the premises. I actually was on my way to the Admiralty Lighthouse, which is perched majestically on the Mediterranean coast. I discovered that it was off bounds for tourists as it was under the command of military personnel. Adjacent to the military establishment is a vast football ground, where a friendly game of football was in progress. I stood there and watched the game for some time, munching on a Danish pastry.

Ambling along I soon came to the Palais des Rais, also known as Bastion 23, a classified historical monument. Unfortunately for me, it was closed being a Sunday. It is notable for its architecture and for being the last surviving quarter of the lower Casbah of Algiers.

It was not yet noon and therefore, plenty of time was left for the day. I had only a couple more places left in the itinerary for the day. So, I pulled out the hard copy and decided to complete a part of the third day's itinerary as well. I walked past the el-Kettani hotel and beach as well as the Rmila beach in the Bab el Oued area.

The Ferhani Stadium, built in 1950, mostly used for football and rugby games, is the home ground of the Algerian national rugby union team. In the far distance I could sight the majestic Notre Dame Afrique cathedral. I knew my legs would not carry me up there and tried to hail a taxi. Not being successful at it, I started the long walk back to the city centre. On the way I stopped to buy a cup of mint tea. 

Sipping it, I walked to the prominent landmark in Bab el Oued, the Three Clocks monument. This iconic site features a distinctive three-sided clock tower that stands at the heart of a bustling intersection, marking the passage of time for the community. It embodies the communal spirit of the area, acting as a popular meeting point and a reminder of the past. The surrounding market enhances the experience, offering a taste of local life with its array of goods and flavors.

During the time of French Algeria, Bab el Oued was established as the main neighbourhood of poor pied-noirs, a mixture of locals and French gentry. Soon after Algeria became independent, most of the pied noir resettled to France. The neighbourhood was then settled by Muslim Algerians. Located beyond the Bab al-Oued, on a hillside, is the tomb of Abd al-Rahman al-Tha'alibi (1383-1470), a revered scholar and mystic known as the patron saint of Algiers. A garden in his name faces the Mediterranean Sea in central Bab el Oued.

The Bab Azzoun gate was a vital link to the hinterland. Bab Azzoun was truly the economic heart of the city, ensuring the essential supplies for the daily lives of Algiers' inhabitants. Despite this, the Bab Azzoun was infamous for the atrocities committed there. Large iron hooks were fixed to the ramparts surrounding the gate and used for brutal executions.

The Algiers ferry port serves Algiers and Marseille, with three crossings per week. The Port of Algiers ferry terminal can accommodate up to 350,000 passengers per year. Systematically improved over the years, the port bears the marks of each era in Algerian history. It was established by the Phoenicians. The first construction of a modern port began in 1529.

Directly in front of the passenger ferry terminal is the Grande Post Office of Algiers. The neo-Moorish style building, built in 1910, houses Algerian postal service. The splendour of its facade, adorned with three arches and an upper gallery formed of arcades, is truly a masterpiece.

After a short rest in the hotel room, I decided to take a ride on the Metro to explore the Didouche Mourad street. The Ali Boumendjel metro station is quite close to the hotel. I bought a ticket for 50 DZD and went through the gate to the platforms. Unsure about the platform I was studying the metro map when a young guy asked me if he could help me. We went to the platform together as he was going in the same direction too. While waiting for the train we got to know each other a bit. He was in his last year of high school with aspirations to graduate in IT and later specialise in cyber security. In the train he told me that his father is a well-known journalist in Algiers.

The Didouche Mourad street is one of the main streets of Algiers, dedicated to a hero of Algerian Independence. Full of clubs and shops and quite crowded it has a certain “local” look despite the typical French colonial style buildings. This is probably the busiest street in the whole of Algiers.

The Sacred Heart Cathedral of Algiers is the cathedral church of the Archdiocese of Algiers. Built from 1956, it became the cathedral of Algiers in the aftermath of independence, taking over from the Saint-Philippe Cathedral of Algiers which was returned to its previous function as a mosque. The cathedral is under renovation, and it seemed that it would be closed for many months hereafter too.

I returned to the hotel using the Metro. I realised rather late that it would have been more economical to take the 24-hour pass. Back in the room, the pedometer showed that I had walked 24,000 steps during the day. That's humongous considering that I rarely get to walk 2000 steps a day when I am at work. The first full day in the 65th country I have been to, had been full of activity.