96 hours in Seoul, South Korea – 25 May 2026

The previous day I had been hamstrung by the non-availability of the Matrix esim connection. I lost a lot of time seeking out free wifi locations and fading connectivity. Therefore, the restoration of the Matrix esim, thanks to the coordinated efforts of the Matrix team, particularly Rahul Jadhav at the Mumbai airport, I stepped out from the accommodation this morning with a joie de vivre that was missing yesterday.

I started early with the primary purpose of witnessing the much advertised 'Changing of the guards Ceremony' in the Gyeongbokgung Palace. In the excitement, I even got down at a station prior to the one I was to transfer. That lost me some time. However, when I finally reached the neighborhood of the Palace I went to the Isaac Toast outlet near it. As bad luck would have it the eatery was closed. I pared into the Paris Baguette then and had a cup of cappuccino and egg sandwich.

I was well in time for the changing guard ceremony in the Gyeongbokgung Palace. One need not buy a ticket to witness the guard changing ceremony. However, entrance to the Palace grounds entail a 3000 KRW fee. Much to my delight, as a senior citizen, I was given free access when my passport proved my claim. I took a short tour of the Palace grounds to take in the historical and architectural magnificence of the Palace.

The Gyeongbokgung Palace, built in 1395, is the largest and premier royal palace of the Joseon Dynasty. As the political and cultural center of the kingdom, it symbolized the dynasty's founding, Korea's resilience against colonial rule, and a masterpiece of traditional feng shui architecture perfectly integrated with nature. The Palace is built with Bugaksan Mountain at its back and facing out toward the Han River to achieve perfect geomantic harmony.

The iconic two-story banquets hall, the Gyeonghoeru Pavilion, sits on a beautifully landscaped artificial island and remains one of the finest examples of the Joseon-era architecture. The fortunes of the Palace waxed and waned throughout its history. The subsequent restoration serves as a profound emblem of Korean endurance and cultural revival.

The Changing of the Guard Ceremony at Gyeongbokgung Palace is a vibrant, free public reenactment of Joseon Dynasty royal guard rotations, which takes place twice every day at 10:00 AM and 2:00 PM. The duration of the ceremony is about 20 minutes.

In the sweltering heat hundreds of curious visitors milled around a circle in the main courtyard. The ceremony features performers in historically accurate, brightly colored traditional dress marching, to the tune of drums and pipes, with an elaborate description of the ceremony provided by a commentator. After the event visitors line up to take photos with the performers.

From the Palace I walked about 40 minutes, in the tough hot sun to the Bukchon Hanok village. On the way I stopped at a farmers' market and picked up a cup of fresh strawberries and a bottle of strawberry juice. That provided some relief from the rather oppressive heat. The Bukchon Hanok Village is home to hundreds of traditional houses, called hanok, that date back to the 14th century and thereabouts.

The name Bukchon, which literally translates to "northern village," came about as the neighborhood lies north of two significant Seoul landmarks, Cheonggyecheon Stream and Jongno. Today, many of these hanoks operate as cultural centers, guesthouses, restaurants and tea houses, providing visitors with an opportunity to experience, learn and immerse themselves in traditional Korean culture.

As Bukchon Hanok Village is an actual neighborhood with people's homes, visitors are advised to be respectful at all times while looking around. The Bukchon Hanok Village is one of the most visited areas of Seoul. From traditional craft workshops to tea houses hidden inside Hanok homes, this neighborhood has layers. I did spend some time in a tea house and the aromatica hanok. The place was crawling with tourists posing and pouting for that perfect photograph.

From the Bukchon Hanok, the Changdeokgung Palace was only 15 minutes away by foot. The Palace is a UNESCO World Heritage site and the most well-preserved of Joseon's five royal palaces. Built in 1405, it served as the royal residence for the longest period. It is celebrated for integrating exquisite traditional architecture with its natural topography. Again, as a senior citizen I escaped the 3000 KRW entrance fee.

The Palace is a pristine naturalistic landscape containing pavilions, lotus ponds, and a 300-year-old tree. Access to the secret garden requires a separate guided tour ticket. The Changdeokgung Palace was destroyed in the Japanese invasion in 1592 and was rebuilt in 1610. It was the major residence of kings for the next 270 years until Gyeongbokgung Palace was rebuilt in 1867 and served as the de facto primary palace.

I walked around the humongous palace area admitting the various buildings and the purpose for which they were built. Being a National Holiday, owing to Buddhas birthday, couples in traditional attire accompanied by professional photographers could be seen diligently going through elaborate settings with and without props.

The oppressive heat had given way to some cool breeze, and I decided to foot it to the 100-year-old Ikseon-dong Hanok Alley, where the harmony of alleys and over 100 hanok houses exude great charm. It has become a must-visit spot for tourists over the years. One may definitely ask what the difference is between Bukchon Hanok Village and Ikseon-dong. While Bukchon is a traditional, residential neighborhood, Ikseon-dong is trendier with cafes, restaurants, and boutique shops. It is known for its well-preserved traditional Korean houses repurposed into trendy retail outlets.

The narrow streets of Ikseon-dong were overflowing with visitors and tourists. Every cafe, restaurant and retail outlet had enough and more customers to handle. Long waiting lines could be seen outside cafes and restaurants. I was hungry from the long walk the whole morning and I took a seat in a restaurant serving hotpot meals. I ordered a portion of eggplant hotpot and breaded shrimps. While the latter was more of batter, the former was a full meal served with salad and three types of pickles and soup. The waiter told me to pour hot water, served in the tray that held the meal, into the hotpot and stir the rice, eggplant and pork bits thoroughly before feasting on it. The restaurant also served cold brown rice water.

While walking around the hanok complex I came to know that the poor condition of the hanoks had almost led to its complete redevelopment as a modern housing project in 2004. However, sane voices in the Seoul City Planning Commission were heard and a plan was put into action to preserve the hanoks. I walked along the narrow alleys, hoping I had a better appetite to savor the traditional culinary feasts on display and sale. In the end, despite the protuberant belly protesting any further assault on it, I walked into a crowded cafe to savour a delectable portion of homemade tiramisu. Moist and yummy it was, to say the least.

I had to walk off the extra calories mercilessly ingested in the past hour. Hence, I decided to walk from Ikseon-dong to the Cheonggyecheon stream. It was a long, but leisurely, walk that lasted nearly an hour. Along the way to the stream, I came across the Gwangjang Market, which was the first permanent market in Korea. It thrives as a popular tourist destination now. The name Gwangjang means "to gather from afar and keep altogether." The market began as a small trading center that brought in goods from nearby regions but has now grown into a large wholesale market selling a variety of goods, including upholstery, imported goods, groceries, dried fish, traditional goods, and more.

The market has more than 5000 shops and 20,000 employees in an area of 450,000 sq. ft. Approximately 65,000 people visit the market each day. The most popular section of the market is the massive food street, which caters to a wide range of patrons due to the variety of food served there. Besides the food, it has textiles, bedding, handicrafts and lacquerware inlaid with mother-of-pearl. I moved through the market and had a glass of fresh sugarcane juice.

The Cheonggyecheon Stream is an 11-kilometer modern, car-free urban park and promenade running through the heart of downtown Seoul. Restored in 2005 from a buried, polluted overpass, the stream features flat, tranquil walkways, 22 crossing bridges, steppingstones, and waterfalls. It is open 24/7 and is completely free. Access points via stairs and elevators line the route, connecting with several subway lines. People could be seen lounging under the bridges, some with their feet in the quietly flowing waters, experiencing fish massage.

The weather had become more conducive to walk the lovely pedestrian pathways. From the stream I took one of the stairs to the road above and set course for the Myeongdong Market. The ambling walk first took me to the majestic Myeongdong Cathedral, which is the most iconic cathedral in Korea, it being the birthplace for Roman Catholic Church community in Korea. Designated as historic spot No. 258, the Myeongdong Church has significant historical value embedded in its architecture. It is the first brick church in Korea built in Gothic style with a 45m tall bell tower.

The Cathedral Church of Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception, informally known as Myeongdong Cathedral, is a shrine is dedicated to the Blessed Virgin Mary, who was honored as the principal Patroness of Korea by a pontifical decree accorded by Pope Gregory XVI in 1841. The cathedral serves as a community landmark, tourist attraction, and a notable symbol of Catholic Church in Korea. The other notable features in the complex is a grotto to Our Lady and the Familia Chapel. I spent a few minutes in prayer and thanked Our Lady for Her call.

From the cathedral, in a short while, I was swallowed by a humongous sea of humanity, coursing through various streets of the Myeongdong Market. The entire place is chock full of shops, restaurants, cat cafes, photo booths, caricature stalls, beer and fried chicken outlets. It is without a doubt one of Seoul’s most popular night markets. The street food outlets were doing exceptional business.

I had the popular fish cake and a helping of strawberry mochi. My feet were almost falling apart, having walked more that 22,000 steps by then. It was time to get back to the accommodation for some well-earned rest. From the nearest metro station, I took the subway train to one closest to my accommodation. A can of Kloud beer was all that waited before seeking the company of the comfortable bed.