96 hours in Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia – 28 May 2026

The driver reported in time for an 8 am departure for the Gandantegchinlen Temple, which in Tibetan translates to "The Great Place of Complete Joy". The primary religion in Mongolia is Buddhism, and Gandan became an important center for learning and practicing Buddha's teachings, not only in the country but for the entire Mahayana Buddhist community since its founding in 1834.

In 1904, the 13th Dalai Lama resided in this area. It survived the communist onslaught of the early 20th century, when over 10,000 lamas and over 900 monasteries were razed to the ground. The monastery reopened and was even permitted to operate as a Buddhist monastery in 1944. The complex has been restored and revitalized since 1990. Currently, within the monastery, where around 900 lamas reside, there are ten operational datsans and temples.

I walked around the complex unhurried. Many monks were seen arranging flower offerings, water and such on a gallery in front of the statue of the reclining Buddha. Unfortunately, the Janraisig Temple which is home to the impressive Janraisig statue was closed for the day. It is apparently the crown jewel of the complex.

I finally reached the massive prayer hall where a congregation of 600 plus monks and hundreds of worshippers were chanting prayers along with the main lama. I wiggled my way past the entrance and slowly walked along one of the alleys of the prayer hall. A tall monk summoned me, and I feared that he would ask me to leave the place as prayers were on. Instead, he asked me where I was from and the purpose of my visit.

As I responded he introduced me to another monk who was seated in prayer nearby in a low chair, who hailed from Ladakh. He pointed out to the main Buddha statue on the dais and proudly said that the entire set along with the ornaments had been gifted by PM Modi a few years back during his State visit. The monk took me to the sanctum sanctorum where I bowed in prayer for a few minutes. He also gave me permission to take photographs of the main prayer hall and the deities. Indeed, a rare honour.

The next in line for the day's visit was the Bogd Khan winter palace built between 1893 and 1903. It is the only surviving residence of Mongolia’s last theocratic ruler, the Bogd Khan. The entrance fee is 15,000 MNT. The complex features a European-style winter palace built by Russian architects, alongside six traditional wooden summer temples.

On display are rare Buddhist artwork, ceremonial garments, ornate royal furniture, and a unique collection of gifts from foreign dignitaries. It is the earliest museum in Mongolia with a collection of more than 8,600 exhibits. It sees an average footfall of 40,000 domestic and foreign visitors per year.

From a Palace to a monument. The Zaisan Hill Monument was constructed in 1971 to commemorate the friendship between the Soviet Union and Mongolia. It was built to honor the Soviet soldiers who fought alongside Mongolian forces during World War II. Surrounded by beautiful landscapes, the monument's exterior wall is modeled after a traditional Mongolian fireplace, which represents life.

The mural depicts various events that cemented the friendship between the two countries. A 27-meter-tall statue of a Russian soldier clutching a triumph flag in one arm and a machine gun in the other is part of the Memorial wall. The monument reminded me of a similar one in Gudauri, Georgia, which I had visited in 2024.

While returning from the Zaisan Hill Monument I dropped into the "International Buddha Garden," established in 2006. Korean Buddhist sculptors created a 23-meter-tall statue of Buddha, whose gaze is directed toward Ulaanbaatar, symbolizing protection over the city. The park was designed as a sacred space for both locals and visitors to seek peace and spiritual cleansing. The complex also includes a bell symbolizing peace and a drum calling upon the gods of heaven and earth for protection.

The Narantuul market is locally known as the "Black Market". It is said that a visit to the market is a must to experience the heartbeat of Ulaanbaatar, for it is a cultural landmark where tradition and modern life meet.

The narrow alleys of the market has hundreds of stores selling garments, textiles, handcrafted boots, accessories, jewellery, souvenirs, suitcases, fresh produce, etc. The sprawling bazaar is divided into sections, each dedicated to a specific type of product;  the sheer size overwhelmed me.

The last sightseeing stop for the day was at the Choijin Temple complex and museum, which was built between 1904 and 1908. The complex was dedicated to the eighth theocratic ruler's younger brother, who served as the official state oracle of Mongolia and occupied the temple until his death in 1918.

The Choijin Lama Temple survived the political tumult of the 1920s and 30s and was converted into a Museum of Religious History in 1942, exhibiting artifacts from destroyed monasteries. The Choijin Lama Temple is an important example of religious architecture.

Its five temples included in the complex were built using blue bricks, with timber roofs supported on wooden posts and decorated with green tiles. Each temple was dedicated to a specific deity. The Yadam Temple houses a collection of copper and brass sculptures; scroll paintings; diverse artworks including papier-mâché sculptures and masks; engravings; textiles; silk appliqué; and instruments used for religious ceremonies.

One of the must-not-miss events in Ulaanbaatar, I was told, is the Tumen Ekh Folk song and dance ensemble. It is staged in a ger within the Amusement Park in the centre of the city. Founded in 1989, the Tumen Ekh Ensemble is reputed to be one of the best national song and dance ensembles in Mongolia.

Famous for the quality of its show that combines professionalism and respect of Mongolian traditional culture, it has performed in over 60 countries and won prestigious international awards too. The hour-long program begins at 6 pm. The entrance is 60,000 MNT. However, if one feels the need to take photos and videos an additional amount of 60,000 MNT and 120,000 MNT have to be shelled out.

It was all well worth in the end with the program wonderfully packed with a variety of beautiful performances. From the Mongolian traditional love songs to an accomplished orchestra of traditional wind instruments, robust folk dances, Khoomei the famed throat singing, Team mask dance, Shaman dance to the mesmerizing contortionist performing the most complicated feats, it was a flawless tapestry of traditional artistry.

The traditional musicians perform beautiful pieces with their instruments and the dancers delight with their boundless energy. The singing, dancing and instrumental music were all staged with supreme pleasantness and dedication.

The Tumen Ekh Ensemble took me on a brief tour to Mongolia’s world of folk art staged along the vast steppes of grassland, clear blue skies, and a nomadic way of life that has been developed and preserved for thousands of years.

After the superb ensemble show was over I spared some time to walk the grounds of the Amusement Park, which was opened in 1969. The park includes a castle, roller coaster, games, paddle boats and haunted house and other attractions to keep children and teens screaming for more.

Currently, it has 24 rides in total. It also features an ice-skating rink during winter. The park was crowded and, as I was leaving, many more were coming in. Brilliant walkways with well-kept hedges are a feature of the park. There's plenty to eat and more to drink in the park.

On the way back to the accommodation I picked up a portion of chicken rice from a restaurant close by as well as a can of lemon tinged Sengur beer. It is one of the popular Mongolian brewed beers with less than 5 percent alcohol. The chicken rice was bland but healthy. The quantity was too huge to finish in one sitting.