The previous evening, over a couple of pegs of Laphroaig single malt whisky, Binu and I agreed to go for a walk at 5 am. He usually goes to the Al Azaiba waterfront to walk his Shitzu, Leo. Being summer slivers of light had dispelled much of the darkness and people were about on their morning routines. The cleanliness, condition of the roads and the general infrastructure amazed me. I felt that Muscat has something that Dubai doesn't have, a soul. Natural beauty that abounds every human development is a feature of the sprawling city.
Life starts early in the country. By 6.30 am Meena left for the Indian School where she teaches and Binu and I left after breakfast before 7 am for the airport from where I was to pick up the rental car. I got down at the arrivals promising to meet Binu later in the evening. Little did I know that I would meet him sooner, much, much sooner.
I went to the dollar car rental counter where I had confirmed my booking the last evening and the documents required for the hire. A youngish lady was at the counter and she too confirmed that I had a booking. Since there was a slight change in my schedule after discussion with Binu, I requested her to split my three day car reservation to two days now and one day after my return from Salalah on the 18th. She said that couldn't be done because I had paid online! I then asked if the extra day's rental cost could be adjusted against full protection, to which the response once again was negative. All this because I had booked online.
The fatal blow came thereafter. She wanted my driving license. I produced the International Driving Permit and she declined it saying that it is not valid in Oman. I showed her that the official government website mentions that foreign tourists arriving into Oman can use their country's license for 90 days as long as it is in Roman script. I gave her my Indian driving license too. She consulted a few other rental counters and they came up with the view that Indian driving license or an IDP issued by that country is not valid in Oman because they drive on the right side of the road unlike in India! The most ridiculous argument I have ever come across. The lady further claimed to have spoken to four police stations and confirmed that Indian driving licenses cannot be accepted for car rental. She cancelled the booking and my plans were spiked and I was stranded. There was no way I could have gone around because public transport is not very common.
Binu picked me up once again from the airport and from his office arranged a car rental, Al Qassabi, after doubly ensuring that my licenses were valid. Obviously, what is sauce for the goose is not sauce for the gander. I signed the rental contract for two days, at a rate higher than what I had contracted from the airport.
Once the car rental issue was sorted out it was time to hit the road for some sightseeing. The Marina Bandar Al Rowdha is the original marina of Muscat located at the foothills of the Al Hajar mountains. While it is home to the first boat ownership club, various boat operators offer a range of tours from dolphin watching to show cruising to game fishing. I took a 15 OMR ticket for a two hour dolphin sighting tour with Sidab Sea Tours who seemed to be the only company operating at the time.
At the start of the tour, with 10 of us on board, the captain was introduced to us and we were warned that sighting dolphins is not guaranteed. As was warned, so it happened. After trying to locate dolphins for over 75 minutes, the captain apologetically promised to show us some pristine sights of the Muscat coast with private beaches. That turned out to be an awesome experience. For me the experience was fantastic because I got to stand at the bow of the vessel and brave the painful thuds as it navigated choppy waters and waves. I got a real close up views of the sights pointed out by the captain, the awesome coastline, limestone cliffs, rocky outcrops, secluded coves and private beaches. All through the boat ride the sun was relentless.
With turquoise green waters of the Sea of Oman on one side and the majestic cliffs of the Al Hajar mountains on the other the drive to the Shangri-La Barr Al Jissa Hotel is really worth a drive even though you will not be permitted beyond the security gate if you do not have a reservation. Snaking roads with a roller coaster feel pumped my adrenaline to new levels. There are many lookout points with countless photo opportunities. The views were majestic. The heart's desire to stay on and enjoy the sights were limited by the beating sun.
The Yiti beach was once upon a time a happening place. But now much of the area is under development with Saudi Arabia being the prime investor. One can soak up the tranquility of the clean and gently lapping waters of the Oman Sea. Again, the mid day sun was aggressive and stifling, and a couple of potential anglers were soon on their way too.
The National Museum opened to the public in July 2016 with a view to showcase the heritage of the country from prehistoric times to the present. The museum occupies over 20,000 sqm and has over 5500 exhibits. One of the interesting features of the museum is the use of Arabic Braille for the visually challenged.
The Al Alam Palace was built over 200 years ago and was rebuilt as the official palace of the Sultan in 1972. The existing palace has a facade of gold and blue and visitors are permitted up to the gates to take photographs. The Al Alam Palace is surrounded by the Al Mirani and Al Jalali Forts built by the Portuguese in the 16th century. Plenty of redevelopment works are ongoing to restore the old forts.
The Bait al Zubair is a private art collection and museum of an Omani family with extensive display of ancient weapons like khanjars, and costumes, etc. The centre has a traditional village and Souq too.
The Muscat Gate Museum was closed at the time of visit but the commanding views of the surroundings including the Sea of Oman and the fast moving traffic can be enjoyed if one climbs up to the Museum area.
The well laid out and aesthetically decorated walkway from the Yiti experience centre to the Muscat Fish Market, the Corniche, is popular as the intensity of the sun reduces. The Frankincense burner monument atop the Al Riyam Park is a landmark of the city. It was built to honour the 20th National Day.
The rest of the evening was spent with Deepak Nair and his young family. It was amazing to hear the growth of Deepak in Oman and the various challenges he overcame to be what he is. He drove me in his Prado to the Ruwi clock Tower, the Ruwi market, the Al Bustan Road and the Bait Al Barainda. Deepak single handedly piloted a couple of interviews with local newspapers that promptly appeared in the Observer and Times of Oman.
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