An Oman Holiday - 16 May 2022 – Day 3 in Salalah

Hashiem was to be my companion and guide for the second consecutive day in Salalah. He set aside all his engagements and selflessly agreed to conduct me around. It is to such people that I owe the success of my travels. There was no need for them to offer their services or incur the costs attached, personal and economic. I shared with Hashiem the places I wished to visit during the day and he made a mental note of it.

Hashiem said that the best place to start the tour would be the Cheraman Perumal tomb, which is quite close to the Crowne Plaza Resort where I had stayed on the 14th. The drive to the location of the tomb made me gaze in amazement at the extent of coconut, papaya, banana and pepper cultivation in the area. What was seen there is more than what can be seen in Kerala today. Yes, Salalah is a slice of Kerala, but a better slice for the cultivation, plantations and hospitality.

The legend of Cheraman Perumal is that he witnessed the 'splitting of the moon' over the skies in Kodungallur. Arab traders who visited the King told him of a prophet in Mecca who preached tenets of righteousness. Cheraman Perumal divided his kingdom and joined the trade party on a visit to Mecca, met Prophet Mohammad, converted to Islam and completed the Haj. On his way back to Malabar he fell ill in present day Salalah and died. His burial place is now just a large monument of blocks covered with plenty of cloth. Also buried close to him is one of his companions. Apparently, the place is under reconstruction.

The Al Balid Archaeological Park and Museum of the Land of Frankincense, made a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2000, is quite close to the tomb. The ruins of the park belong to an ancient city called Zafar from where the trade of frankincense intensified after the fall of Khor Rori. The city was visited by famed travellers such as Marco Polo and Ibn Batuta. Later in the 16th and 17th centuries the city went into decline due to changing trade patterns and invasions.

The site is well preserved and signposted with important information. It has 27 important locations connected by well laid out pathways and gazebo like relaxation points. The best preserved of the structures is the old place that was supposed to have occupied 5000 square meters. Old boats used for fishing, diving, cargo transportation and ancient stone anchors are also on display in the Park.

Another interesting feature of the park is a large number of frankincense trees, many of them in bloom. This part of Oman is known as the land of frankincense and it is believed, though not historically verified, that one of the wise men who travelled to meet and present Baby Jesus with gifts was from here. The Museum has two interesting sections in Maritime Trade and History. The displays are adequately explained and are aesthetically arranged. Models of famed crafts, artefacts, maritime and historic developments, life and culture of the times are all very well put together in the museum. There is no entrance fee to the heritage sites except for a parking fee for the vehicle.

On the way to the Tomb of Job is a very large park dedicated for children, called the Ittin Park. That is also free. The activities are numerous including cycling and theme rides. They are all free. A short detour from the road to the Tomb of Job is the Ayn Gerziz, which turned out to be quite a revelation. That was not on my itinerary but Hashiem said that I should have a look in there. The beautiful valley of Ayn Garziz is a perfect picnic spot in the Khareef season, Hashiem told me. The freshwater springs and the greenery across the hills would be balm for sore city dwellers. There are many caves to explore there and one can identify many shapes on the stalactite and stalagmite formations. I wish that the government does something to make such places inviting all the year around. It is such a marvelous place to relax like the Wadi Darbat.

Job is a character in the Bible whose devotion to God is tested multiple times with loss of fortune, health and all that he held dear, but was thankful to God for. He comes through all the trials and tribulations holding steadfastly to his faith. Many places in the Middle East lay claim to being the burial place of Job. Dhofar too has a Tomb of Job. The walled complex was locked and disappointment started welling up. However, I noticed a few blocks of stone piled on one side of the low wall. Hashiem and I scaled it without much difficulty and entered the premise. The room where the tomb is laid out was locked, but a window was open through which the 4 metre long tomb draped in green could be seen. We got back to the car scaling the wall yet again.

We drove back to the city after spending a few minutes in the salubrious environ of Jebel Ayub where the temperature was decidedly cooler than the plains. Moreover, the breeze wafted cool air copiously. While visiting Hasik Hashiem had narrated the story of Prophet Saleh and the camel. In the city of Salalah there is a site where the camel that was given to the Talmud was tortured and killed. Twice we went there hoping it would be open and both the times we were disappointed. Prophet Saleh had gifted the Talmud people the divine camel with the instruction that it could be milked as often as they needed but desist from harming the camel. Instead they chose to slay it and, it is said, that the whole clan was laid waste thereafter.

The Nabi Umran Tomb is on the important 23 July street. The mosque within the complex was open only for worship in the morning and we gained entry for sightseeing after 1.30 pm courtesy Imam ul Huq, the keeper of the premise. He unlocked the mausoleum and let me in. Nabi Imran is thought to have been the father of Mother Mary in one of the biblical narratives.

Almost bang opposite the Tomb is the Udupi restaurant capably managed by Jagdish Naik. He has been in Oman since 1988 and bought over the restaurant in 1994. Presently the restaurant is on one of the floors of the building. He lives on one of the floors and lets out a flat on the same floor on short term rental. Another floor is where the staff are accommodated. Jagdish is a successful entrepreneur and he has not let money or his meteoric rise go to his head. While Hashiem had a thali meal I plumped for a plate of poori baji.

The Sultan Qaboos Mosque in Salalah is neither ornate or as large as the one in Muscat but has been welcoming worshippers and visitors since 2009. The manicured gardens and the clean surroundings are a feature here. The main Hall is big with a large carpet running from corner to corner. The large glass chandeliers, motifs and marble works are noteworthy.

If you thought that that was the end of the day, you are mistaken. Hashiem had been telling me that visiting Jebel Samhan during a full moon night is one of the most enjoyable experiences in the Dhofar region. While he told me that we would be having dinner there this night I did not expect to be part of what it finally was. Hashiem and his two co-brothers and their families in four cars with mats to be spread on the ground, grill, kadai, marinated chicken and fish, chicken curry, ghee rice, pita bread, soft drinks, lights, chairs and seats. The cave near the Jebel Samhan viewpoint turned out to the ideal picnic spot, shielded from the wind but exposed to the bright full moon. Two hours went by in conversation and partaking of the most delicious food. We only wished we had reached there a few hours earlier. There were other visitors in the Nature Reserve near the viewpoint. They quietly enjoyed the late evening without being a nuisance to others.