Once
the luggage was settled and I had become a bit familiar about the facilities in
the apartment I set out on foot to explore what I had scheduled for the rest of
the evening. When I was young, I learnt from my father about Socrates, the
first Western philosopher, and his forced suicide by consuming hemlock.
So, it
was only natural that my first visit would be to what is regarded as the Prison
of Socrates, which was about a kilometre and half from my accommodation. It is
an ancient rock-cut dwelling on the slopes of Philopappos Hill, where legend
says, the philosopher was imprisoned before his execution in 399 BC.On the way
to the cave-like structure I came across awesome view of the Acropolis, bathed
in golden hues. The cave is protected by a heavy modern metal fence, so
visitors cannot go inside the chambers. Tradition claims that it is here that
Socrates was forced to drink hemlock.
However, modern archaeologists are
divided on this. They believe that this was an ancient Athenian house or
sanctuary. One thing is certain, though. During World War II, antiquities from
the National Archaeological Museum of Athens were hidden inside this cave to
protect them from bombing.
Not
far from the Prison of Socrates is the church of St. Dimitrios Loumbardiaris.
It is considered one of the most picturesque churches of Athens and is a
frequently preferred destination by Athenians as an ideal spot for weddings,
baptisms, or a relaxing walk. The tiny church is estimated to date back to the
9th century and is a vaulted, aisled basilica. During the building process
parts of the ancient ruins of the area were used, such as the columns in the
altar.
Its
name means “Saint Demetrius the Bombardier” and derives from an incident that
took place in 1658, when the Agha of Athens, Yusuf, was planning to bombard the
church and the believers that were gathered there from the Propylaea on the
Acropolis with a loumbarda (cannon). However, a thunder fell upon the gunpowder
storehouse and killed him.That was considered a providential sign and the
church was named to honour the occasion. The church was restored in 1955 by the
renowned architect Demetrios Pikionis. During the restoration works, impressive
meta-byzantine illustrations of the 16th century were discovered. It is an
ideal place to spend some time in quiet solitude.
Along
the walkway to the Ancient Agora of Athens are a few interesting stopovers.
Stenopos Kollytos is an ancient Athenian street that led to the Ancient Agora.
Stone ruins and foundations of the walking path can be seen here. Kollytos was
an ancient residential and commercial district of Athens. It is said that its
importance can be gauged by the fact that the founder of modern Western
philosophy, Plato, lived in this neighbourhood.
The
Kallirhoe Fountain was the primary natural freshwater spring of ancient Athens.
It holds immense historical, mythological, and archaeological significance,
developing over centuries from an open natural spring into a monumental public
fountain house. In antiquity, the water from Kallirhoe was considered sacred,
used primarily for key religious rituals.
The
Sanctuary of Pan is a small, hidden archaeological site located on the way to
the Ancient Agora of Athens. It was found during archaeological investigations
near ancient roadways, revealing an underground chamber and rock carvings. It
features a carved bedrock of the semi-god Pan, a naked nymph, and a dog.
The
Ancient Agora of Athens is an archaeological site and museum. The Ancient Agora
of Athens served as the heart of political, commercial, cultural, and social
life in classical Athens, where prominent philosophers like Socrates and
Aristotle once debated and walked. It is here that citizens gathered to vote,
ostracize political figures, and manage state affairs during Athens' golden age
of democracy. Hence, the Ancient Agora of Athens can be justifiably called the
birthplace of democracy.
I
reached there well past its opening hours. However, while walking to the Roman
Forum I could make out some important monuments like the Temple of Hephaestus,
which is one of the best-preserved ancient Greek temples. The site suffered
major damage by the Persians in 480 BC, the Romans in 89 BC, and the Herculians
in AD 267.
The
Lycabettus Hill is a striking sight from the modern city of Athens. It is from
here that the marble required to rebuild the Parthenon and other important
structures in the Acropolis was brought from.
The
Roman Forum, also known as the Roman Agora, is an ancient archaeological site
located in the Plaka neighbourhood. It is said to have been built between 19 BC
and 11 BC and was funded by Julius Caesar and Emperor Augustus. It served as
the main commercial and civic centre during the Roman times, replacing the
older Greek Agora for trade and social gatherings.The grand entrance to the
Forum features four standing Doric columns made of Pentelic marble. Besides the
imposing gate of the Roman Forum is the Tower of the Winds - an octagonal
marble clocktower that functioned as an early weather station and timekeeping
device - and the Fethiye Mosque, which is a 17th-century Ottoman Mosque, where
occasional exhibitions are hosted.
A
short walk from the Roman Forum is the tiny, hidden micro-neighbourhood of
Anafiotika, on the slopes of the Acropolis. The settlement was built by
islanders from Anafi. The residential area features whitewashed cubic houses,
blue doors, narrow lanes, steep steps and bright bougainvillea that make it
feel like a Greek island village.
The quaintness of the locality has to be
experienced to be believed. Social media influencers have gone on an overkill
due to which many residents have put up request outside their houses to respect
their privacy and be quiet in the neighbourhood. However, such entreaties, I
found, were observed more in its breach. The main pedestrian street of
Anafiotica is filled with open-air cafes, family-run tavernas, and artisanal
shops.
The
Plaka is the oldest and most famous historic neighbourhood in Athens. Nestled
at the intersection of the eastern and northern foot of the Acropolis, it is
often called the "Neighbourhood of the Gods" because of its unique
location, maze-like cobblestone streets, and 19th-century neoclassical
architecture. Plaka also showcases the oldest house in Athens.
While
walking along the vibrant streets of Plaka I came across the ruins of church of
St. Catherine, which was built in the 11th century at the site of an older
temple dedicated to the Goddess Artemis. The atrium’s columns are still
standing in the church’s cloister.
The
next destination was the Melina Mercuri Monument, which is a marble tribute
located opposite the Arch of Hadrian's Gate at the edge of the Plaka district
and the Temple of Olympian Zeus. Melina Mercouri (1920–1994) was a celebrated
Greek actress, singer, political activist, and Greece's first female Minister
of Culture and Science. She is also famed for her tireless international
campaign for the return of the Parthenon Sculptures. The monument was unveiled
in 1999.
I
walked across the road to the Arch of Hadrian from the Melina Mercouri monument
to admire the monumental gateway built between 131 and 132 AD. The Arch is made
entirely of fine Pentelic marble. It is 18 meters high, 12.5 meters wide, and
2.3 meters thick. The Arch was built by the citizens of Athens to celebrate
Hadrian's visit and thank him for his massive building projects and gifts to
the city.
From
the Arch of Hadrian, one can also appreciate the Temple of Olympian Zeus, which
is a massive ruined ancient Greek temple dedicated to Zeus, king of the gods.
The Temple construction lasted nearly eight centuries. The Temple once had 104
colossal columns, each about 17 meters (56 feet) tall, of which only 16 massive
Corinthian columns still stand today. I chose to admire the massive monument
from a distance as massive reconstruction is underway.
The
last stop of the day was at Spar, the departmental store room where I picked up
a couple of Greek beers, chips and peanuts to keep them company and a couple of
ham and cheese eats for dinner. The hit and humid weather has drained me by the
time I got to the accommodation. Legs started to cramp up and even the fingers
gave trouble. I had trouble typing and hence, I was forced to hit the sack
without completing the blog.
From
the Arch of Hadrian, one can also appreciate the Temple of Olympian Zeus, which
is a massive ruined ancient Greek temple dedicated to Zeus, king of the gods.
The Temple construction lasted nearly eight centuries. The Temple once had 104
colossal columns, each about 17 meters (56 feet) tall, of which only 16 massive
Corinthian columns still stand today. I chose to admire the massive monument
from a distance as massive reconstruction is underway.
