Balkan Experience - Greece & Albania - Athens - 31 Aug 2026

I walked to Acropoli metro and changed at Syntagma for Evangelismos. From the metro it is just 700 metres to the funicular station. But, those 700 metres felt like 7000 meters! It was a steady climb for about half the way and then a series of steps that looked more like the funicular itself. Huffing and puffing, and muttering under my breath for the poor state of my health, I finally reached the funicular station.

I learnt that the funicular operates 365 days of the year between 9 am and 2 am! The alternative to the funicular is to take the paved paths and stairways that wind up the hill through pine trees. The walk takes about 20 to 30 minutes from the base. I would not do that, even if I were told that I would have to drink the hemlock.

I bought the 13€ return ticket - a one-way ride costs 10€ - and took a place in one of the cabins. The funicular ride is less than 5 minutes through a 210-meter tunnel. Lycabettus Hill is a high limestone peak that rises right out of the Kolonaki neighbourhood in central Athens.

It stands slightly over 900 feet tall and offers panoramic views of the city and the Aegean Sea. From the summit, I spotted the places I had visited in Athens over the past days like the Acropolis, Parthenon, Panathenaic stadium, National Garden, Syntagma square, etc.

The small 19th-century Chapel of Saint George, an open-air theatre, and a restaurant sit at the summit. The white-washed church with three blue domes dates back to the 19th century and opens daily at 11 am.

I walked around for some time soaking in the glorious views of the city and its neighbourhoods. Every morning, over a cup of coffee, the first sight I have had from the balcony of my apartment was the Lycabettus Hill. I used to wonder if I would be at its summit one day.

After the return trip on the funicular, I sauntered around the Kolonaki neighbourhood for some time. While it is today one of the city’s poshest areas, it had been grazing lands during time of Ottoman rule. However, Kolonaki has changed over the years too with high street retailers yielding space to a new crop of Greek designers to move in.

Quite suddenly I came across the St Dionysius Catholic Church. Dionysius the Areopagite was an Athenian judge who lived in the first century and was converted to Christianity by the preaching of St. Paul, the apostle. After his conversion, Dionysius became the first Bishop of Athens.

He is the patron saint of Athens and is venerated as the protector of judges and the judiciary. His memory is celebrated on October 3. In the place of the present-day church, there used to be a smaller one, which was demolished in 1900. 

The construction of the new church began in 1925 and was completed in 1931. The church is a three-aisle basilica in the neo-Renaissance style. A team of the finest artists and craftsmen combined their forces for its decoration. Their fruitful collaboration is stunning, especially the impressive illustrations, exquisite mosaics, and the breathtaking woodwork exemplified by the wooden carved chandelier of the church.

My next destination was the Central Market of Athens. Along the way I came across the Vallianeio Megaron, the historic neoclassical building that served as the National Library of Greece. The building features a grand Doric portico modelled after the Temple of Hephaestus and a striking Renaissance-style double-curved staircase.

It forms one part of a harmonious three-building complex known as the Athenian Trilogy, which also includes the neighbouring Academy of Athens and the National University of Athens.

Another monument I chanced by in the direction of the Central Market is the Monument of National Reconciliation, a prominent public sculpture located in the centre of Klafthmonos Square. The massive structure standing 26 feet tall statue features three abstract human figures embracing one another with one arm while raising their opposite hands high into the sky. This composition represents unity, healing, and an optimistic outlook for the future. The monument commemorates the formal legal end and healing of the deep political divides resulting from the Greek Civil War between 1946 and 1949.

The next surprise came in the form of the Church of Agioi Theodoroi, an 11th-century Greek Orthodox church. It is widely celebrated as one of the city's finest and most distinct examples of middle Byzantine architecture. While the church claims its founding in the 11th century AD, the impressive frescos in the church are much more recent.

Finally, after all the above pleasant diversions, my nostrils hinted to me that I may be somewhere in the vicinity of the Central Market. One of the shops had displayed fridge magnets in the footpath. That when I met Sakish from Bangladesh, who has been doing business in Athens for 25 years. We had a small chat on the political situation in both countries - he was upset that Indian narrative of Hindu vs Muslim, whereas I pointed out the persecution of minorities in Bangladesh. However, on one thing we agreed. Left to themselves, without religiosity and ultra nationalism, people in both countries can lead better lives.

The Athens Municipal Central Market, or Varvakios Agora, is a complex combination of flavours and aromas, where you can find anything from oxtail to mackerel, quail and royal jelly.

The cost of construction of the market was borne by Ioannis Varvakis, a caviar importer. The Central Market, inaugurated in 1884. Some of the displays in the meat section can be disturbing for people from countries like India.

The centre of the building houses the fish market—the largest fresh fish market in Europe. About five to 10 tons of fresh fish arrive here daily, most of it from Greek islands.

The most common fish in display were sardines, anchovies, and mackerel, besides calamari, octopus, cuttlefish, crabs, shrimp and lobsters. There are many eateries within the market that serve fresh catches and cuts. You buy, I cook, concept. The Athens Central Market is open daily from 8am to 6pm. It is closed on Sundays.

The blocks surrounding the central market are lined with stalls and speciality food shops, selling a variety of nuts, dried fruit, spices, honey, vegetables and fruits.

600 meters away on foot from the Central Market is the vibrant and historic neighbourhood in central Athens, famous for its lively nightlife, traditional tavernas with live music, and colourful street art.

Iroon Square is the main social hub here surrounded by bustling cafes and eateries. There are many small artisan shops selling handmade leather goods and indie fashion. The highlight here is its creative graffiti and gritty, artistic charm. Tavernas serve traditional specialties like meatballs and Greek salad.

Little Kook is an eccentric dessert parlour in the centre of Athens in the Psyri neighbourhood. They first opened in 2015 but, it is said that, their fairytale displays keep getting bigger and better every year. Their street is packed full of decorations that often go viral on social media.

It is promoted as one of the most Instagramable places in Athens and one of the most magical cafes in existence. Walking through the almost street sized cafe one is transported into Alice in Kookland and other fairytale themes.

Another short walk from the themes cafe is the Holy Metropolitan Church of the Annunciation to the Virgin Mary and often referred to locally as the Mitropoli. The construction of the church spanned 20 years under scrupulous design and the watchful supervision of three top notch architects of the day. The church was dedicated in 1862.

A fascinating historical detail is that workers used salvaged marble from 72 demolished or abandoned Byzantine churches throughout Athens to construct its immense walls. Its significance is that as the seat of the Archbishop of Athens and All Greece, it serves as the spiritual headquarters for the Greek Orthodox Church and hosts major national and official state ceremonies. The structure and the interiors are truly impressive.

By the side of the huge Mitropoli is the small church of St. Eleftherios, also widely known as the Little Mitropoli. This tiny Byzantine church dates back to the late 12th or 13th century. Its walls are built using ancient Greek, Roman, and early Christian marble reliefs and stones recycled from older monuments. The church was closed at the time of my visit.

I had saved the best for the last. The Monastiraki is a vibrant, historic neighbourhood and major shopping district in the old town of Athens, famous for its bustling daily flea market, rooftop cocktail bars with Acropolis views, and proximity to ancient ruins like Hadrian's Library and the Ancient Agora.

The Monastiraki Square is the central social hub featuring the 10th-century Church of Pantanassa and the Ottoman-era Tzistarakis Mosque. The flea market is a maze of pedestrian alleys selling antiques, vintage clothes, handmade crafts, and souvenirs.

Traditional tavernas were busy with visitors enjoying classic Greek dishes like souvlaki, moussaka, and gyros. From one of the bust tavernas I bought a portion of pork Gyros. The prices displayed on the menu are for dine in customers. As my order was a takeaway, I enjoyed a 25 percent discount over the displayed price of 5.90€

Walking back to the accommodation I dropped by to check on the bus schedule for Athens airport. Metro schedule begin at around 6.15 am on weekdays. Since I intended to be at the airport earlier than that for the 8.40 am flight to Tirana, I sought out the bus schedule. In the early hours, buses for the airport leave from Syntagma square almost every 15 minutes.

A can of Alfa beer kept the gyros company before a well-deserved overnight rest. Thus, sightseeing in Athens city was complete. I have booked a tour to Delphi for the last day in Greece.