22 May - Grandfalls-Windsor to St. John's - Day 18 of TCE

A hearty continental breakfast that Michael made in Carriage House Inn was the proper fuel to tackle the cold and rain. Fried eggs on buttered toast with bacon and orange juice were heavy enough to last till after lunch. The heavy overnight rain had left puddles on the road. Michael had suggested a detour before Gander to see icebergs on the way to Fogo Island, which would have meant an extra 3 hours. I decided to do that on the return and that was a good decision in the end. It rained right through the day and temperature hovered between 4 and 2 degrees. It was freezing cold and windy. With about 100 km to go for St. John's the weather turned foul. It started snowing and the sides of the road had ice. The sound of breaking ice under the car was alarming. Yet vehicles were zipping at the maximum speed and didn't seem to bother about the conditions. That's experience of local conditions, I presumed.

Driving through snow and rain and over ice on the road in the final stretch I reached St John's Mile One Centre at 1.45 pm local time (-2.30 GMT). The rain had eased when I reached the Mile One Centre in St. John's. That gave me the opportunity to take a few pictures and savour the successful completion of the first leg of the Trans Canada Expedition. It was indeed a very proud moment - 7752 km in 407 hours and 45 minutes to complete the third longest highway in the world; done and dusted solo. I also took time there to thank all my family, friends, relatives and well-wishers for the prayers, blessings and good wishes, the result of which is the successful completion of the first leg of the Trans Canada Highway Expedition. The Chevy Impala had stood the journey well consuming nearly 650 km for the 7752 km it had done from Victoria. I shall also immodestly claim to be the first Indian to complete the four longest highways in the world solo! Australia Highway1 in 2018 (16500 km), Trans Siberian Highway in 2016 (11000 km), Trans Canada Highway in 2019 (7750 km) and Golden Quadrilateral of India in 2013 (5850 km).

The huge town of St. John’s, the capital of the eastern most province of Canada, Newfoundland and Labrador, looked quiet, yet busy. The accommodation I had booked for two days turned out to be just a few minutes away from central downtown with private parking. Todd, the caretaker of Gower Guest House, seemed a strict sort of guy who wanted his instructions followed to the T. However, he kept a very neat place. Todd explained how most attractions in St. John’s were in close proximity to the guest house. However, the foul weather was not conducive for a walk in the neighbourhood that included the St. John’s harbour.

So I decided to take in some of the attractions that could be done by car. The rain was very slight but the wind was extreme. Signal Hill is just 10 minutes’ drive from the accommodation. The National Historic site is the place where Marconi received the first intercontinental telegraphic message in 1901 and was the ramparts that defended the city and harbour for nearly three centuries. It was prominent in many Wars and has stood the test of time. The final surrender of the French to the British forces in the Seven Years' War had been following the Battle of Signal Hill. The Cabot Tower on Signal Hill was constructed in 1897 to commemorate the Diamond Jubilee of Queen Victoria's reign and 400th year of the landing of John Cabot, the intrepid explorer. The panoramic views of the City and neighbourhood would have been magnificent on a clear day. However, the Atlantic Ocean lapping the shores giving off a pastel green shade and a few icebergs in the distance took me on a short trail walk despite the freezing cold and icy winds. The Tower too was closed due to the inclement weather.

From Signal Hill I drove to Cape Spear which is the easternmost point in Canada and North America. The wind speed was enormous and I almost got blown away from the track I took to the viewing post for a closer glimpse of an iceberg. My cheeks had turned into blocks of ice, well almost.

The best views of icebergs awaited me on the way to Petty Harbor-Maddox Cove, although it was a bit misty. There I had much better views of five icebergs of different sizes and shapes. One had a tunnel through it. These are ones that float here from Eastern Greenland and can be seen on this coast between late May and July, I was told. I was here at the right time. Petty Harbor-Maddox Cove is one of the earliest establishments of European settlers dating back to the late 16th century.

What took me to Petty Harbor, however, was the highly recommended Chafe's Landing Restaurant. It took me a while to get parking. The restaurant was very busy serving up lobsters and other sea food to its long line of customers. I went through the very impressive menu and weighed options between fish and chips and moose stew. Finally, I decided on the former. The large portion of fries, sauce, dressing and two batter fried cod fillets were too much for one person. I quietly sipped on a peg of ‘Navy’ rum and Pepsi while enjoying the fish and chips. I had to leave some fries behind despite my best efforts. The batter fried fish would have certainly tasted better with a dash of Tabasco and lime.

By the time I returned to the guest house my thoughts were on the morrow. I hoped that the weather would turn for the better so that I could enjoy the lovely city on foot.