It had rained the entire night and the morning was no different. I knew that the day’s schedule would be impacted by the terrible weather. Before leaving the Golden Shell Residence I exchanged a few empty beer bottles for one last swig in the Island. The owner of the Residence also runs a grocery and bakery shop next door, from where I picked up a few buns for the journey. While the stay in the Residence had not been uncomfortable, the apartment could have been better furnished and maintained.
I left for Mahebourg, the last halt in my Mauritian itinerary, in light to heavy rain. The skies were overcast making photography a challenge. Without the aid of an umbrella, the intermittent showers made sightseeing rough and sketchy. The first stop was at the Old French Battery in Ansie Petit Sable. As soon as I stepped out of the car I got drenched and eyewear became useless. The Battery was built out of mortar stones and coral in the 18th century. This Battery, like the many others on the Island, point to the importance of the island to the colonisers over the centuries and the efforts it took to defend territory.
Pointe du Diable is located along the coastal road in the south-east of the island Mauritius. These guns were engaged during the famous naval battle of the Vieux Grand Port in August 1810. Today, Pointe du Diable provides a graphic historical perspective and is an ideal place to appreciate the exceptional view of the Bay of Vieux Grand Port. The stone walls still exist and traces of the effects of the great naval battle are still visible. The jetty of Bois-des-Amourettes was built by the British for WWII support, to land fuel for its airplanes located in Plaisance, close to the present day commercial airport.
Fort Frederik-Hendrik was where five Dutch ships cast anchor on 1 September 1598. They named the island after their prince, Maurice van Nassau. The fort was constructed in 1638 by the Dutch and was eventually abandoned in 1710. The French took over the remains in 1722 and did the best they could before moving their establishment to Port Louis. The existing ruins are remains of compounds erected by the French who came to Mauritius after the Hollanders’ departure. They consist of ruins of the governor’s main residence, a bakery and a building which sheltered a store, a forge and a prison cell.
Now it is part of a Museum surrounded by a luxuriant tropical garden and includes a visitors’ centre with an exhibition of artefacts found during archaeological excavations in the area since 1997 ruins. Reproduction of historical paintings and maps of the 17th century are also displayed in the complex. A plaque was placed within the premise in 1998 to commemorate the 400th anniversary of the Dutch landing in Mauritius.
Directly opposite the Fort ruins complex is the Notre Dame du Grand Pouvoir School. The Fille de Marie sisters settled in Mahebourg in 1865. Two sisters were deputed to Vieux Grand Port to run classes during the week and they returned to their community in Mahebourg over the weekend in dugout canoes. When the sisters came to live in Grand Port by 1896 the convent was built behind the school, which can be seen even today.
The denomination of “Notre Dame du Grand Pouvoir” is unique to Mauritius and it is said that they were the safe keepers of a wooden stature of the Virgin that was discovered in the beach in 1900. The statue was later placed within the Notre Dame du Grand Pouvoir church. When I visited the convent in search of the wooden statue I was directed by a nun to the church where I spent some time in front of the wooden statue of Our Lady in prayer.
I was disappointed when I got to Point Canon. It was closed and I was itching to take a look. Therefore, I jumped the fence at its lowest point and tentatively walked around to see if I would scuffed up and sent out. Nothing of that sort happened and I grew in confidence with every passing minute. Pointe Canon is an interesting place with a nice overview of the different sites surrounding Mahebourg. One can see the imposing Lion Mountain that overlooks the sugar cane fields, Mouchoir Rouge islet, facing the waterfront, and Ile aux Aigrettes further north, a small protected island located in the lagoon and which is also a nature reserve.
There is an amphitheatre and a monument to commemorate the abolition of slavery in Mauritius. Local inhabitants aggregate here for regattas and the commemoration of the abolition of slavery celebrations in February. It also has a renovated powder store that was part of a small battery in the 17th century. As I was nearing the end of my exploration a genial person came to me and politely told me that the place was closed for the day. I thanked the gentleman, more for being civil with me and not berating me for the trespass, and left quietly.
The Grand Port Naval Battle memorial commemorating a rare French victory over the British fleet in 1810 is at the Mahebourg waterfront, which is ideal for a relaxing walk apart from savouring slices of Mauritian history. Close by there is also a memorial called Bataille de le Passe that pays homage to the fighters who lost their lives in the battle. The waterfront also has a statue of Swami Sivananda, a temple and well paved walkways; an ideal place to spend an evening in solitude.
The historical Cavendish Bridge, also known as ‘Pont la Ville Noire’, is the only route that links Ville Noire and Mahebourg across the La Chaux River. The Bridge was constructed between 1908 and 1911. The concrete bridge was constructed at that time beside the existing wooden bridge. The bridge is approximately 200 m long with a 6 m wide carriageway and 1.25 m wide footway on each side of the carriageway and is considered to be the longest in Mauritius. It was designed on the London Bridge of Lake Havasu City. It started to rain while I was completing my walk on the bridge admiring the River and the reflections of the sky and houses on the river.
As the Ecozy Studio I had booked for the stay in Mahebourg was close by I decided to go and rest a while there. What a place the accommodation turned out to be! A compact one bedroom studio with a veranda, living cum dining, toilet and shower. Small, but so tastefully done up with plenty of double entendres on the walls, especially in the toilet. The bed was comfortable too. I could park the car inside the compound. Had it not been for the rain I could have sipped my beer in the well maintained lawn.
When the rain abated a bit I drove to the Notre Dame des Agnes Church, which is a simple, yet regal, Catholic Church. Its butter-coloured tower dominates the Mahébourg skyline. The original church was built in 1849, but it has been restored several times over the years; the baronial roof timbers are worth a quick peek. Local people visit throughout the day to make offerings to the beloved missionary Père Laval, who was known as the “Apostle of Mauritius” due to his untiring works for the poor, sick and infirm.
The National History Museum, earlier known as the Naval Museum as it housed many artefacts from undersea expeditions around Grand Port. During the Naval Battle of Grand Port in 1810 the Robillard Castle, as it was known then, served as a hospital where the British and French commanders were treated side by side. The state acquired the estate and converted it into a museum in 1950. At the time of my visit the museum was closed.
Mouchoir Rouge, Ile aux Fouquets, Ile aux Vacoas, Ile de la Passe, Ile aux Aigrettes and Ile des Deux Cocos in Blue Bay are islets of Grand Port. They are majestic; the water level is supposed to have risen 130 metres in 80,000 years giving rise to the islets by distancing the coral barrier reefs. Over time the islets became natural reserves, fortifications and one even houses a hotel.
The Blue Bay was the last stop for the stay in Mauritius. As the name suggests, Blue Bay is famous for its crystal clear oceanic water which is surrounded by spectacular white sand and huge casuarinas trees that truly defines the real beauty of marine life and the amazing weather. Reflecting bright colours and a charming landscape, the Blue Bay Beach is one of the most welcoming and visited ones on the island. The presence of policemen in large numbers, not often seen, is an indication that wanton acts in the name of New Year’s Eve revelry will not be tolerated.
That wound up the truly amazing stay in the lovely island of Mauritius amidst sparkling cerulean waters, sugar icing shores, soft sage palms and jagged indigo mountains that frame the land with ethereal wonder. The nation is home to some of the best water sports and cuisine in the world, too. I drove back to Ecozy Studio to enjoy an evening in reflection, sipping a beer and repacking the bags for the return to India.
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