The Black River Gorges-Bel Ombre biosphere reserve, spread over 8500 hectares, is important for the conservation of the last remnants of the islands’ endemic vegetation, the tropical evergreen forest. The biosphere is uninhabited. However, more than a million tourists visit this ecologically sensitive area annually. Within the national park an information center raises public awareness and provides environmental education.
The drive through the National Park, with viewpoints like the Alexandria waterfall and the Gorges viewpoint, are points of tourist interest. The former was closed due to excessive overnight rain. At the entrance to the viewpoint a tape was strung across two trees with the notice of the closure. I was surprised that no one tried to breach the tape despite there being no supervision at site. Many tourists came in vehicles and two-wheelers, read the notice and, without demur or attempts to trek to the viewpoint, went on their way. This kind of discipline, especially in the absence of supervision, speaks volumes of the character of the locals and tourists.
The Black River Gorges National Park is a primeval forest, famous for being the home of endangered species such as the Mauritius Falcon. In times past, the hard ebony found in the park was used to make warships in different parts of the world. After leaving behind the souvenir, food stalls and smiling, fun loving locals on the road between Chamarel and Le Petrin, one will reach the viewpoint at the gorge of the Black River.
The path to the viewpoint has a unique ambience of its own with even a group of monkeys that come and greet as a sign of welcome The Park has 60-kilometres of road network inside to trek, which will take more than one day to complete. The Gorges Viewpoint offers a spectacular panoramic view of the endless green stretches. I was amazed to discover how high the viewing area was from the gorge. On the right side of the viewpoint is a breath-taking waterfall. The viewpoint is approximately 20 km from Souillac.
From the Black Gorges National Park Viewpoint it is just 5 km to the Grand Bassin, commonly known as Ganga Talao. The infrastructure and the road leading to the Grand Bassin is excellent. On the approach to the main temples are huge statues of Shiva and Goddess Durga that are a real marvel. The Shiva statues is the third tallest in the world at 108 feet.
The Crater Lake is situated deep in the heart of Mauritius. It is about 550 m above sea level. It is considered the most sacred place for Hindus in Mauritius. The Shiv Mandir is located on the bank of the lake and there are temples dedicated to other Gods including Lord Hanuman, Goddess Ganga, and Lord Ganesh around the Grand Bassin. The Talao was discovered in 1887 by a priest called Pandit Jhummon Giri Gossagne Nepal, who claimed to see the waters of Ganga Talao flowing from the goddess Ganga in a dream. During Shivaratri, around half a million Hindus in Mauritius go on a pilgrimage to the lake, many walking bare feet from their homes.
The Flic-en-Flac beach is about 35 km from Grand Bassin; it was one of the longest unbroken stretch I drove in Mauritius. At a junction point on the route, Riviere du Rempart, is the signage that one is driving to the western part of Mauritius, moving on from the north east. Every tourist site and every recommendation for a Mauritian holiday has reference to the Flic-en-Flac beach, which is possibly the most popular in the whole of Mauritius and is the longest sandy beach on the island.
Flic-en-Flac offers a lively atmosphere both during day and night. Visitors try the delicious local street food during the day from the many food trucks that ring the beach. The bleak weather, brought on by overnight rain, did not deter families from pouring on to the beach on Christmas day.
Thanks to the cancellation of the two Airbnb accommodations I had initially booked to visit Port Louis and the neighbourhood I managed an excellent apartment in the heart of the city, near China Town. The hosts were waiting for me and gave me precise direction to reach the complex. I was hesitant to park in the street, but the host assured me that everyone parks in the street and it si safe to do so. Anyways, with the full cover, I had little to risk! The apartment was exceptionally well laid out with a kitchenette, a cosy living room and two bedrooms, very tastefully done up and maintained. From the hosts I could make out that the place is busy and I was lucky to get the three days there.
After settling in and unpacking the bags I decided to take an evening stroll in Port Louis, the capital city of Mauritius. Port Louis is the country's financial and political centre, and its most populous city. The French occupied Mauritius between 1715 and 1810 and the British from 1810 to 1968. Prior to the opening of the Suez Canal, Port Louis was a major reprovisioning location for French and British ships trading between Europe and Asia.
From my accommodation, near China Town, most of the attractions were easily explored by foot. Magnificent street art and quaint buildings pointed to a flourishing Chinese community in time past. The Jumma Mosque is one of the most beautiful pieces of architecture in the capital city. The Mosque was built in 1852 as an initiative of Muslim traders who could not leave their shops for extended periods of time for prayers. It is written outside the mosque, “Beyond the porch of the Jumma Mosque, the time for man stops and the time for God begins”.
The Amicale Gambling House was at the heart of the erstwhile China Town. Prior to the 1950s, when it was converted into a flourishing Casino, the place was at the centre of spice trade in the city for about 100 years. The Casino became the epicentre of nightlife of the city. Sadly, the building was set on fire by rioters following a football match, resulting in many casualties. The place was demolished and has been converted into a parking lot with only memories remaining of the Chinese spirit of enterprise and their fondness for gambling.
Between 1834 and 1920, almost half a million indentured labourers arrived from India at Aapravasi Ghat to work in the sugar plantations of Mauritius or to be transferred to Reunion Island, Australia, southern and eastern Africa or the Caribbean. This was the first site of the British Government’s ‘great experiment’ in the use of ‘free’ labour to replace slaves. The buildings of Aapravasi Ghat stand witness to what became a global economic system facilitating one of the greatest migrations in history.
At the time of my visit the Ghat was closed due to Christmas. The guard asked me my nationality and immediately opened up about the significance of the site. He told me how the immigrants were housed there, documentation done, basic facilities provided and transported off to their work locations after about two days. In the early days malnutrition and disease was common amongst the immigrants.
In close proximity to the Aaparvasi Ghat is the Intercontinental Slavery Museum (ISM), which provides a unique experience of human tragedy, resistance, and survival by breaking the chains of the slavery legacy. The ISM was one of the key recommendations of the Truth and Justice Commission of Mauritius set up in 2009 to investigate the legacy of slavery and indentured labor from colonial times. As part of the recommendations the erstwhile Labourdonnais military hospital, the oldest building in Port Louis built in 1740, was restored and refurbished to house the Museum. It too was closed on the day of my visit.
On the walk to the Caudan waterfront I came across the massive red brick building, The Granary, built between 1927 and 1931, was a precautionary measure against food scarcity. It stored cereals and dry grass. It remains the largest brick building in the Indian Ocean, reportedly. The warehouse could store 300,000 sacks of food, the requirement for the entire population of Mauritius for four months. It was equipped with mechanical conveyors and elevators to unload sacks from the seafront and store within the warehouse.
This huge building now serves many purposes like storage, offices, logistics centre, car park and a tourist site. Seen from the harbour side, this building dominates the whole area. A signboard outside includes an old photo where you can see the building from the seaside, including information about it. Two acres over three levels says something about the size.
The headquarters of Mauritius Post as well as the quaint Postal Museum which has a plaque commemorating 140 years of the establishment of the postal system in Mauritius (1868-2008) is near the Caudan waterfront. The building is a good example of Victorian architecture of public colonial buildings. Very close to it is the Customs Building and the National Coast Guards office. A sight that strikes the eye is a windmill that was constructed in the 1900s to grind wheat for supply to the bakeries to make bread for free supply to the citizens of the city.
The Caudan waterfront is a modern waterfront in Port Louis. It has a large selection of outlets for shopping an array of eating joints and restaurants, and corporate space for offices, meetings and events. There are cinemas and entertainment centres. The cultural attractions include the Caudan Arts Centre, Blue Penny Museum, the Artists Corner and the Casino.
The Odysseo is the first oceanarium in the country and is approached by a swinging bridge, the operation of which is another attraction. There are many pricey accommodations ringing the waterfront with opulence written all over. The waterfront was extremely active, possibly because all other attractions were closed for the day.
I had dinner in one of the restaurants on the waterfront – local draught beer and a plate of Bol Renverse, with a liberal dose of chicken, prawn and egg with rice, a local delicacy known as Magic Bowl.
The Place d'Armes, which stretches from the Caudan waterfront to the Government House is the historic core of the modern Port Louis. This was the location where the French Naval Base was established in 1725. The place is emblematic of the seat of power over time and a memorial to the great men who impacted the history of the nation, as the many statues on the route tell us. Truly a packed day, full of enjoyment.
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