26 December 2023 – Day 4 – In Port Louis, Mauritius

A synopsis of the day first - Man proposes, God disposes. I had spent a lot of time the previous night preparing the itinerary for the day. The first half went as per plan - Balfour Gradens, Rose Hill, Quatre Bornes, Vasoas and Curepipe (Botanical Garden and Trou aux Cerfs). The next leg of the itinerary required me to take the M1 through Port Louis. That is where the nightmares crept in - I spent over an hour navigating 1 km! The hold-up was so enormous that the four lanes towards Port Louis had not an inch to spare.

Many ambulances, para-medic vehicles and police patrols manoeuvred miraculously through the snaked and immobilised traffic. Later in the evening I saw on TV that the traffic back up occurred on account of a horrendous accident, which eye-witnesses likened to a disaster film. At one point where traffic was being routed back from where I came, a kind policeman explained in chaste French that I would have to seek other routes to get to Port Louis.

I had no clue what to do when, on impulse, I returned to Rose Hill. In the town I sighted a Church and drove in. The helpful sacristan of the Church suggested that I take the A1 and avoid the traffic held up on M1 and that saved the rest of my day. In the end, I got to do more that I had scheduled for the day including a Pasta lunch in a fast food joint near the Church. All is well that ends well, for sure.

The Balfour Gardens of the pretty suburb of Port Louis, Beau Bassin-Rose Hill, is perched on high cliffs. Unfortunately, the fencing and unkempt perimeter growth obstructed the view of the Grande-Rivière-Nord-Ouest which flows below. The Balfour Waterfall is a natural sight that many come to see from the Garden. There is plenty of seating for the elderly to sit and enjoy the salubrious green space and fresh air. There is a special pen for large turtles and the constant chirping of birds keeps your mind company. One thing must be said about the gardens and public spaces in Mauritius - they are kept neat and clean by the authorities and the people who use the facilities.

The city of Quatre Bornes (Four Boundaries, in English) was named for the boundary stones that marked the limits of four large sugar estates once situated there. I picked up provisions from the fair price shops in Quatre Bornes, including the local Phoenix beer varieties – when the glass bottles are returned one can get a discount on the next purchase, an incentive for recycling and sustainable development. The market fair in Quatre Bornes is supposed to be a must-visit, where one can pick up textiles, souvenirs and toys at a bargain - I chose to skip it.

The municipality of Vacoas-Phoenix lies between Quatre Bornes and Curepipe. The Vacoas Square is a new shopping complex in Vacoas. As is usual with me, I wandered around and picked up some more provisions to last the tour. Straining Google to give me more information about anything further do in the town was not fruitful and hence, left for Curepipe.

The town of Curepipe is the second biggest town in Mauritius after Port-Louis, with a population of over 85,000 habitants. The town is nicknamed the city of lights. Located in the central plateau of the country, the town has a cooler climate than the rest of the country. One kilometre outside of Curepipe is Trou aux Cerfs, an 80-metre-deep dormant volcanic crater, which is said to have last erupted over 7000 years ago.

Views from the paths around the crater offer mesmerising views of Port Louis and the mountain range. A striking tall, blue tower with a dome at the top in Trou Aux Cerfs turned out to be the weather radar station of the country. At the entrance to Trou aux Cerfs I met Raj, whose ancestry is in Bihar. He eked out a living selling toys and souvenirs. H explained to me the features of the volcano and we discussed the life in Mauritius, in general.

The Curepipe Botanic Garden is the second largest botanical garden in Mauritius and was established in 1870 and covers nearly 30 acres of verdant area. It is home to a wide variety of indigenous exotic plants, as well as other species that have been brought from different regions in and around Mauritius and cultivated here.

The gardens are intersected by a river and a lake with a Gazebo to host community events. The Victorian-style kiosk has a raised wooden board floor to facilitate better acoustics during concerts. The uniqueness of the Curepipe Gardens is the rarest palm tree in the world, the Hyophorbe amaricaulis. This individual remains the only specimen of its species, as all attempts to cross-fertilise it have failed. The 12 meter high unique palm has a thin grey coloured trunk that produces occasional creamy white flowers. It is protected by security fencing around it.

Once I had surmounted the road traffic hurdle on M1 and taken the A1 to circumvent Port Louis I navigated to The Citadelle. The Fort is an impressive sight, with walls made of huge cut stones of basalt rocks; it still holds some remnants from the past such as cannons. The construction of the Fort lasted 10 years from 1830. It was never used for the purpose that t was intended for – to fortify the city from French invasions. However, the Citadel Fort is now famous for the 360-degree view of Port Louis. Many landmarks such as China Town, Champ de Mars, the harbour and waterfront and the mountain range can be marked from atop the ramparts of the Fort.

The Champ de Mars is a horse race track near Port Louis. The racecourse was inaugurated in 1812 and the Mauritius Turf Club is the oldest turf club in the Southern Hemisphere and the second oldest in the whole world. It is a relatively small course with less than 1300 metres length and 12 metres width. The racing season starts in March and lasts till December. The importance of the race course now is that when Mauritius gained independence on 12 March 1968, the event including the flag hoisting ceremony was held here. Since then the racecourse has been the venue for the annual celebration of the accession to independence. 

The Marie Reine de La Paix is a monument to Mary, Queen of Peace and is considered to be its protector. Crafted from white Carrara marble, the statue was built in 1940 and stands 3 meters tall. To reach the church, you need to ascend seven terraces and 82 rock-cut steps. Each terrace is adorned with colourful flowers and the beautiful surrounding gardens are well maintained. The modern chapel and shrine of Marie Reine de la Paix is a popular spot for prayers, and the ornamental gardens offer views over the city. Pope John Paul II officiated his first Mass here during his visit to the island in 1989. 

The St. James Anglican Cathedral was originally a building used for storage of powder magazine (gun powder) during the time of the French occupation of Mauritius. Therefore, to protect the critical cargo the walls were made very thick. For this reason, much modification could not be done when the decision to convert the building into a place of worship was considered in the first half of the 19th century. The lofty spire of the church became a true landmark and was so prominent that the sailors entering the Port used it to check their bearings.

The Roman Catholic St. Louis Cathedral is the seat of the bishop of Port Louis. The first church at the site was built in mid-18th century and since then many have been built there. Cyclones and disrepair brought ruin many times to the church. The present Church is a 2007 restoration of a 1930 structure. That ended an adventurous day, where I packed in more than what I had originally scheduled, although half way through the day it didn’t look as if that would be the case.