24 December 2023 – Day 2 – Souillac, Mauritius

Nature created Paradise on earth, which homo sapiens systematically laid waste and destroyed. Despite their best efforts many slices of Paradise still remain for those who are fortunate to visit there, marvel in them and enjoy the bounty. On this visit to Mauritius I have the opportunity to savour some of the delights that Nature created and man has nourished.

I had planned a day full of activity and wished that the weather would be a staunch aide – it panned out as planned. The Macondé Viewpoint at Baie du Cap, undoubtedly the most popular viewpoint in Mauritius, is ranked among the 10 most beautiful roads in the world. It provides unparalleled views of deep green forests, lines of palm trees, the turquoise waters of the southwest coast and Le Morne Brabant Mountain. Every turn and every few meters one is tempted to stop for photos and to enjoy majestic sights. The route is a narrow dual carriageway from Souillac to the Maconde Viewpoint. Baie Du Cap is a small, quaint village en route to Le Morne. The region is known for its natural beauty and rugged coastlines.

The Maconde Viewpoint is set on a curved portion of the coastal road, on the peak of a small rocky cliff where I enjoyed breath-taking views of the Indian Ocean and the coastal village landscape around it .It is believed that the name ‘Maconde’ originates from the slavery period, where runaway slaves from the Makonde tribe of Mozambique came to seek refuge here. Others believe that is was named after the governor Jean Baptiste Henri Conde, who built an outlook on the cliff. The winding road along the basalt cliffs with the ocean lapping against the rocks, make for quite a sight and is a popular spot for those interested in watching the ocean swells. The viewpoint is accessed by a set of narrow stairs. 

While driving along the magnificent coastal road to Baie du Cap it is difficult to miss the small beach of La Prairie. The place owes its name to the short grass that grows right up to the water's edge, adding to the beauty of the place. The huge lagoon is a delight for the eyes, and there are many charming little spots to get away from the crowds. One of the features of the beaches, even if they are small, is that there are comfort stations at almost all of them. They are reasonably decently maintained with attendants at their post most of the time. Due to the salty water the fixtures do get rusty and there is a peculiar smell associated with it. Despite all that, it is adequate to meet an emergency, as I discovered at the La Prairie beach.

As I parked in the Le Morne public beach I asked a taxi driver what there was to see in the area. He said, "Why Sir, the beach is the most beautiful in the whole of Mauritius." In a short while I realised the truth of what he said. Paradise? Heaven? Stunning and jaw dropping, I didn't know whether to film the experience or grant the eyes that benefit. An incredible beach with crystal clear waters and the most beautiful backdrop of Le Morne Brabant, which is listed as a World Heritage by UNESCO. Surfing, dolphin watching and swimming are popular here.

The Le Morne beach has miles of white sand fringed by large casuarina trees. While nudism is prohibited, topless sunbathing is permitted in the beach. The water is crystal clear, which offers excellent visibility for scuba diving. It is also known as one of the best kite surfing and windsurfing spots in Mauritius. Many competitions are held annually, like the Kiteival, which brings scores of international participants to La Morne. There are classy and pricey accommodations in the vicinity of the beach – with the beach crowded at the time of my visit, it was only natural that these hotels were fully booked. 

La Gaulette is a village in Mauritius and is rated as a must visit place on the western coast of Mauritius. It is essentially a fishing village where one can experience typical village life in the coastal areas of the country. I found the place a bit over-rated and certainly feel that it can be given a miss. The same was the case with Case Noyale. On the way there I stopped at a picturesque place with a rock bund with pristine waters and a rock bund to walk down the lagoon with an amazing backdrop of the La Morne Mountain. A Frenchman was assessing the wind required to do kite surfing in the Benitiers island. The village area of Case Noyale comprises most of the slopes of the Black River mountain range down to the coastline. The area is known for Sisal aloe cultivation, its value addition into jute bags and processing of Chamarel coffee. On its coastline, Case Noyale has evolved from a small fishing village into a more residential development. 

I chanced upon the La Preneuse public beach, which is awesomeness redefined. It is located in the Black River. The Martello Tower, located next to the parking lot, and the old cannons on the waterfront are the main attractions. They transport you back to the era of piracy and invasions. The white sandy La Preneuse beach is away from the bustle and mass tourism. The beach is surrounded by clear blue waters and coral reef with stunning views of Le Morne Brabant as a backdrop. The views are so unbelievable that I stood there for a while to make reality sink in. For those seeking tranquillity, the beach of La Preneuse is a superb opportunity with vast expanse of sand and lush vegetation. The beach, reportedly, is famous for its spectacular sunsets and family swimming outings. Excursions to swim with the dolphins, catamaran tours, speed boat thrills and kayaking are available from the beach.

On the way to the Tamarin village I stopped at what looked like abandoned salt pans. Tamarin is the main salt pan in Mauritius. Its hot and dry environment provides ideal conditions for salt making. The pans can be seen from the main coastal road. Salt production dates back to the French period and the tradition of its making is almost unchanged after nearly two centuries. Water is pumped directly from the nearby sea and allowed to evaporate in shallow basins. Cheap imports, mainly from India, resulted in the closure of the main salt pans. However, the niche, high value fleur de sel, a high end salt used in food flavouring and garnishing, continues to be harvested.

The Tamarin Beach is situated along Tamarin Bay, approximately 11 km from Black River Gorges National Park. It is a scenic public beach with stunning views of the Indian Ocean and the neighbouring peaks. The beach is an ideal destination for water sports enthusiasts due to its strong currents. The beach is surrounded by a coral reef that begins at Tamarin Bay. Set in a picturesque environment, surrounded with trees and mountains, the small fishing village of Tamarin has transformed itself over the years, according to locals. The Tamarin public beach is known for its authenticity, the waves and grey sand beach and its incredible sunset. One can have some great traditional Mauritian food from the many kiosks and carts that stud the roadside. I fell prey to the smells and slurps at one of the stalls and had Dimsums and fried noodles in a mouth-watering broth.

The last stop for the day was the Chamarel seven coloured Geopark. It is a 7500 sq meter area of sand dunes comprising seven distinct colours, red, brown, violet, green, blue, purple and yellow. These are deposits of iron and aluminium oxides, each repelling the other and forming distinctive ridges. The Chamarel waterfall is the highest waterfall in the whole of Mauritius, falling at least 100 meters. This is another example of volcanic activity in the region ranging from over 10 million years ago.

Christmas is also a Season for miracles. This afternoon, as I was parking the Swift in the Chamarel Geopark, the fuel indicator for immediate topping up lit up, with the last bar blinking feverishly. I thought that there would be a fuel station within close proximity of Chamarel and I did not think twice about it as I spent over an hour marvelling at another one of Nature's art. When I embarked on the return trip to my accommodation in Souillac, through dense forest, I realised that I may be lucky to get to a fuel station soon. In Bel Ombre, at a signal, the car stopped and what I feared came to pass. A couple of cars behind me honked and moved on. I was stranded, not knowing what to do. I got out of the car, said a short prayer, got back into the car and tried the ignition in hope rather than any real belief. But, hope is what HE gives and makes you believe that the impossible is possible. The engine started, the fuel indicator showed a full bar of fuel and I drove confidently to the Indian Oil fuel station in Souillac. Miracle, or is there any other explanation? I think the former.

After freshening up in the accommodation I was back in the St Jacques Catholic Church that I had chanced upon the previous evening. The Christmas Eve service I attended this evening was pure holiness and joy. The service was participative and I immersed myself completely in it, even though the service was in French. The choir was out of the world with all those present participating, singing and clapping and moving their feet. What a wonderful experience! All because of that elderly lady yesterday. She beamed from ear to ear when she saw me in church today and said, "You came!" Another miracle. Whether we believe in it or not, miracles happen in our lives every day.