23 December 2023 – Day 1 – Souillac, Mauritius

When I was researching options for rental cars in Mauritius I was able to source a reasonably priced economy car through VIP cars. To confirm the booking I got calls from a person in Gurgaon to make advance payment online through a payment link. I was sceptical of the online payment call and thought it to be a scammer. When I got a call from the service provider in Mauritius to confirm my itinerary I was convinced that that the payment link was genuine. However, the payment link had expired and the service provider informed me that the booking had been cancelled and that they do not have a similar vehicle for the dates I wanted it for. I became desperate as the departure date from India loomed. At the very last minute I pre-booked an automatic Suzuki Swift for the 9 day Mauritius tour with full cover through Discover Cars. The late booking cost me extra.

I located the person carrying the Mauriconnect Car Rental placard. In a while I was taken to the Mauriconnect parking location where the paper work was done by Brian. He explained what was missing in the full cover offered by Discover Cars. He offered to provide me full cover, in all respects, including theft, and waived the deposit. The last minute booking and the full cover cost me the equivalent of INR 26,000. Brian said that I could try my luck with Discover Cars to get a refund of the full cover. He guided me regarding the refund process and I filed for the refund. I was quite amazed when the refund came through in a couple of days; of course, a minor administrative fee was deducted.

Brian got me a white automatic Swift that had done just over 14k kms as per the odometer. There was 4 bars of fuel in the tank, which Brian said would last me to Lanka! He explained the formalities to be completed in case of any accident, incident or assistance for requirement. He also told me how to plan the return of the car on 1 January 2024. Thus, I got my hands on to a Maruti Swift after nearly a decade, but an automatic version of it for the first time. I was also beefed about the hazards to be anticipated on the road – rash and negligent driving, animals and poor road conditions. Brian told me that I should never miss a speed restriction, for the fines are quite steep. Depending on the classification of roads the permitted top speeds are 110, 80 and 60 kph besides a lower one for villages. Apart from the airport toll the country does not levy any other user fee road tolls.

As I drove out from the airport and took the road to Seven Pyramids I hit a pot-holed stretch with sugarcane plantation on both sides of the narrow road. Thereafter came massive trucks with Onmicane prominently painted on them. In a short while I passed a huge factory, which was evidently an Omnicane sugar factory. Mauritius is a major producer of sugar and the sugar industry has been a key part of the country's economy for many centuries. They are closely linked to the country's history and culture. Sugarcane was the first cash crop introduced in Mauritius by the Dutch in the 16th century, who initially used it to make the alcoholic beverage “arrack.” It was under French colonization from 1737 to 1745 that the sugar industry took off, with the import of new technology to build new mills. Since 2010, all the sugarcane harvested in the south of Mauritius is processed by just one sugar mill - Omnicane's fully integrated flexi-factory at La Baraque. Dark Muscovado is the dark brown and moist unrefined special sugar produced in the Mauritian sugar mills.

Seven Pyramids is an enigma in Plaine Magnien. A series of ten-metre-high volcanic rock piles rise majestically from the rolling green fields of sugar cane that surround the area. Stories and myths abound about how the Pyramids got there. Some talk of plantation labour placing hewn black volcanic rocks in terraced steps to serve as watch towers. There are no bonding materials like mortar to hold the rocks together but they have been standing for centuries. It is also believed that Gods used the pyramids to channelize special energies from a faraway sacred mountain. The approach to the Seven Pyramids is through barely identifiable and waterlogged vehicle tracks. Against the backdrop of a clear blue sky and rolling green sugarcane fields, the pyramids looked divine.

I had some difficulty finding Affa Tourist Residence, the accommodation I had booked in Souillac, about 25 km from the airport. The accommodation turned out to be very basic, but the location was good. Besides, my room was on the newly added second floor, which was big and clean with an attached bath. It had a kitchenette with fridge, microwave, water dispenser, basic utensils, crockery and cutlery and an old electric cooking top. I was not happy about the cleanliness of the Residence, especially the washing machine. Parking was on the street, but I was assured that it is cent percent safe. Loud Hindi music played from hairdressers downstairs. After freshening up I shopped in a nearby store for cereals, biscuits, coffee, milk and sugar.

The flat and wide Rochester Falls was just a ten minute drive from the Souillac village centre and is a major tourist attraction. The car had to be parked away from the Falls and the final stretch is a ten minute walk with tall wild grass and sugarcane on the side of the road. Enthusiasts wade through the cold pool and enjoy the 10 metre fall, sipping tender coconut water. The attraction is the rectangular wide flanks of the Falls, which is considered the widest in Mauritius. 

Just 10 km from Souillac on the scenic Bel Ombe route is Riviere des Galets. It is a beach fronted by thousands of small black pebbles and plenty of dead coral reef. This unique beach is a hit with tourists, especially the small jagged outcrop across a short channel. The sound of the waves crashing against the shore and the ‘music’ it makes while retreating so soothing that it is just the thing you would want to listen to on a holiday. The cool wind caresses the face and the relaxation it provides is matchless. The views of the south mountain range from the beach is spectacular. I was quite tempted to ‘pocket’ a few rocks and broken corals. 

Quite close to the Riviere des Galets is the beautiful beach of St. Felix which offers a turquoise sea, white sand and is considered by many as the most beautiful beach in the south of Mauritius. There was music, food and drinks with lots of fun all over; it was picnic time with families and groups having a great time. A particular group was having so much fun with music and food that I stopped by and, with their permission, took a couple of videos. I had fritters, biscuits and coffee for lunch. I was forced back to the accommodation due to heavy rain brought on by the humidity.

After a short rest and the rain taking a break, I started for the La Roche qui pleure, which is known as the weeping rock. Famous for its majestic waves, the waters of the Indian Ocean crash against the cliffs, giving the impression that the rocks are literally tearing, creating a mystic atmosphere. The huge sprays are a joy to behold, but one must be careful not to get too close to the slippery and jagged edges. The absence of a coral barrier, the presence of huge basaltic origin rocks and the incessant and strong battering of massive waves have created weird figures on the cliff.

The Gris-Gris cliff and beach is a short walk away from the La Roche qui pleure. A rock shaped like a praying nun lies between the cliffs and the barrier reefs. Gris Gris is the only place in Mauritius where swimming is strongly discouraged for amateurs and professionals, as strong currents and huge waves breaking on this part of the island makes it totally impractical. One may get fooled by the beautiful golden beach and deep blue sea, but Gris Gris is designated an extremely dangerous beach. At the entrance to the Gris Gris cliff complex is the Auberge restaurant. It is a popular watering hole and food joint for those who live in the vicinity and visitors to Gris Gris. I bought veg fried rice for dinner from the restaurant to be had in the Residence.

The last stop for the day was the Telfair Garden, the "Local Greens" The Telfair Garden in the village of Souillac is a favorite among locals as well as tourists coming to the area. Overlooking the blue ocean, this garden was named after naturalist Charles Telfair, a man who was influential in setting up the Bel Ombre sugar estates. 

Little known is the fact about the railway line that connected Souillac in the 19th century. The oldest post office is in the village and is now based out of the old railway station.

As I was driving back to the Residence I chanced upon the St. Jacques Roman Catholic church, close to the village centre. I could make out that arrangements were on for the Christmas Eve Holy Mass with the choir practicing and the seniors rehearsing the schedule. Afetr a few moments in prayer, as I was leaving the church a kind lady asked me to stay on for the Gospel session. She seemed genuinely upset as I told her that I had to leave. However, having got the details from her, I told her that I would join the Christmas Eve service the next day.