I thanked God for the lovely stay in Port Louis; finding the excellent accommodation had been fortuitous and I was able to savour what I had pencilled to do in the capital city. After ensuring that the apartment is in as good a condition as I could leave it, I dropped the key in the key box and started on the dot at 8 am, as planned for the next halt in Pereybere, the north part of the Mauritius Island.
En route to Pereybere I planned to explore the historical ruins of Balaclava, which is situated within the grounds of the Maritim Hotel and Spa, a 25 Ha property. There is an entrance fee of 500 MUR for non-residents to visit the ruins. In slightly over 15 minutes I was at the gates of the Hotel, where the security guard told me that the ruins was closed to casual visitors as the hotel was full for the busy season.
Disappointed to be denied despite being so close I parked the car outside the hotel and walked to the gates to reason yet again with the guard. That’s when I met the amiable taxi driver, Rajan, who drove a vehicle attached to the Hotel. He and his friends were making friendly banter when they saw me, crestfallen and downcast. When I told them the reason for what they saw on my face Rajan told me that all was not lost. I would still be able to see some ruins of the French era outside the hotel. And that too, for free! He also explained the historical significance of Balaclava - the Portuguese and the Dutch started their settlements in the south-eastern part of the country and in due course abandoned them due to crop damages - sugarcane - during cyclones.
The French, on the other hand, established their primary settlement in Balaclava to explore and document weather patterns on the island before deciding on plantations and industry. The British built on what was left behind by the French after the Napoleonic wars. After the briefing, Rajan pointed me in the direction of the ruins, which I happily explored. Rajan told me of his visits to Manipal to treat his son - he would be going there again next month. The Almighty places Guardian Angels in one’s path when you need assistance.
Thereafter, on the way to Pereybere, I explored the beaches on the beautiful coast. The Balaclava Beach is known for its pristine beauty and water sports activities. Also known as Victoria Beach or Oberoi Beach after the two most luxurious hotels located here, the public beach facing the Balaclava Bay is a glorious sight. The water is crystal clear and a striking turquoise blue, with the seabed nearer to the shore. The beach itself is of powdery white sand, which is toasted by the sun all day, thus making Balaclava a perfect location for sunbathing and swimming. While 'trespassing' the Oberoi beach I met Abhishek, of Indian origin, but not sure where he originally came from and didn't particularly seem bothered either!
The Trou aux Biches (not misspelt! Pronounced as 'true oo beesh' and literally translated as ‘Deer’s Hole’) beach is an idyllic palm tree-lined white-sandy beach with clear turquoise waters known for snorkelling & sunsets. According to the World Travel group, the beach is one of the most beautiful in Mauritius. I found out that the recognition not without reason. It had been awarded the World's Leading Beach Destination Award a few years ago. There were quite a few tourists basking in the Sun.
The Mont Choisy is undoubtedly an idyllic location with a rich history closely intertwined to that of the island. It was on Mont Choisy beach that the first plane landed in 1933 and was also the venue of the first horse racing event in 1891. Mont Choisy has become a lifestyle destination with houses, villas and various leisure areas, at the heart of which stands a spectacular golf course. It is the longest beach in the north of Mauritius with white sand and thousands of casuarina trees that decorate the rather large arc of the endless beauty.
The Grand Baie is one of the most popular holiday destinations in Mauritius, and for this reason, during the season, accommodation is not easy to find and they can be frightfully expensive. The Grand Baie beach owes its popularity to the enchanting waters and the lively atmosphere. The beach is possibly the most crowded I have thus far visited and must surely rank among the prettiest beaches in the Island nation, even though it ranks among the shortest.
I had a quick lunch of fried noodles with egg, chicken and shrimp in the La Pagoda Chinese restaurant enjoying the azure waters. In a way, the restaurant also gave me some time off from the intense heat of the Sun outdoors.
The Pointe d'Azur is a peninsula in Pereybere with fabulous houses abutting the beach. The small beach, with pricey apartments, is also frequented by locals for barbeque meals and holiday picnics.
I had booked an apartment for the two day stay in Pereybere, the Residence Le Beau Manguier. After checking in I had a lively chat with the landlady, Manee Ungapen, who rents seven apartments in the complex. She is getting three more ready as she is mostly rushed for space during the season from October to April. She runs a principled accommodation, not deviating from house rules. She has tastefully developed the ancestral property with her mother staying in a separate house within the large complex.
After her father’s passing she had steel rafts replaced by straw roofs, which looks aesthetic and traditional. Her experience in the hotel industry has served her well in operating the apartment complex. The converted Christian has strong views on Christianity and religion. The story of her conversion sounded like a fairy tale – she had been to a Church where she was standing alone outside and observing what was going on inside. She felt a hand on her shoulder which she thought was a leaf falling and she brushed it away. The second time it happened she also heard a voice in her ears saying, “You are my beloved child”. Since that day she has been a devout believer and follower.
When Manee found me carrying bottled water to the room I learnt another important fact about Mauritius. Tap water is potable; you can drink water straight from the tap. Wish this was true in India too. Clean air and pure water would be the best gifts the rulers of the country could give its citizens, apart from education and health administration.
Another interesting feature is the regular clearance of garbage; a daily routine done hygienically. I understood that houses are meant to have small doors on their compound wall with a bin, from where the garbage is cleared. I did not see must evidence of segregation, though public places did have separate bins for food waste and plastics.
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