1 January 2024 – Day 10 – Mahebourg to India

It was time to head back to India after nine glorious days in Mauritius. Ecozy Studio in Ville Noire was the perfect lodging for the stay in Mahebourg, the perfect finale, an exceptional place to stay. I thanked the host for the excellent accommodation and took guidance from him to drop off the keys. The Swift had taken me all over the island, to wherever I wanted to go; logged more than 600 km in a country where we travelled to the four extreme corners of the island; a country where north to south is less than 65 km and east to west 45 km. It was also time to take leave of her too.

When I took over the rental car I had four bars on the fuel meter; I had to return the car with the same amount of fuel in the tank. Last evening I had fuelled up and hoped that the display would not show any less than what was required for handing over. Anyway, it was under 10 km to the SSR airport.

I reached the airport grounds and took the toll ticket to get into the complex. Thereafter, the lot where I had to take the car to was well sign posted. I had to wait a bit while the company executive was handing over a car to one of the just arrived passengers. When my turn came, the handing over was completely hassle free because I had taken the full cover. Though a bit costly, I opt always for the full cover option because it sets at rest all the devils in your mind.

At the check-in counter the pretty counter attendant asked me if I would like a window seat for the Mauritius-Mumbai leg of my journey. I plumped for it and I thank the young lady for the exchange. I had such glorious views of the Ocean, the reef barriers and the turquoise waters that it completed the Mauritius vacation in grand style, so to say. When I was on the Vistara flight to Mumbai I asked myself as to how I would define Mauritius. These elements made up the definition of the country for me.

1. Awesome coast and great white sandy beaches – go where you want you in the island and you will find an awesome coastline, crystal clear and calm waters lapping white sandy beaches, and miles and miles of casuarina and palm trees.

2. Excellent road infrastructure – save a few village roads the road infrastructure is more than adequate. Differential speeds mark different types of roads – the freeways are open for 110 kph. Speed restrictions are warned well in advance and mobile and stationary traffic cameras keep the drivers on leash. The disciplined driving and absence of honking is at times attributed to good infrastructure and sensible policing.

3. Good traffic police – they do an exceptional job in busy towns like Port Louis. When traffic snarls happen you can be sure to find a few of them landing up to sort matters out.

4. Giant tortoises and extinct Dodo – while the former are still seen on the island the latter was feasted away to extinction by the Dutch, it is told. Being flightless the Dodo was easy meat for the settlers and their size gave them away easily too.

5. Volcanic and basalt rocks – the island is founded, in a manner of speaking, on volcanic and basalt rocks. The land is fertile due and found suitable for farming from very early time. Thick green vegetation can be seen all over the island. The rocks proudly face the Ocean and take a pounding where the reefs are absent.

6. Sugarcane – If any one word can describe Mauritius it is sugarcane. From the early 17th century, starting with the Dutch, who introduced sugarcane from Java, Indonesia to the present times through the colonisation of the France and Britain, sugarcane has remained the raison d’etre of Mauritius. Sugarcane was responsible for the ‘Mauritian Miracle’ pist Independence in 1968.

7. Polite people – people make the place and the country. In this part of the African Continent the people are polite and helpful. The fun loving people can be rarely seen arguing or fighting. They are not intrusive and leave visitors to enjoy the sojourn in peace.

8. No jay walking – this is almost totally absent in the country; at least I did not come across this during my stay in the country. They respect traffic lights and pedestrian zebra lines. Vehicles make sure that pedestrians are given their due share of the road and respect their privileges. 

9. Chinese and Indian influenced food – given the influences on the population of the country – those of traders and indentured labour – it is only to be expected that the cuisine of the country is heavily influenced by Chinese and Indian cuisines. The fusion food is adapted in such a manner as to leave a local mark on the dish.

10. Superb softies – the homemade softy ice-creams are some of the softest I have had anywhere in the world. 

There is so much more to ponder and dwell on, but it was time to land in Mumbai, from where I was to catch a connecting flight to Ahmedabad. Thus ended a most enjoyable vacation. It is said that Mauritius was fashioned out of the handbook of the Gods; it’s true, I experienced it. Mauritius tourism is an alluring blend of heritage, culture and nature, with a drizzling of tradition on top.

31 December 2023 – Day 9 – Trou d’Eau Douce to Mahebourg, Mauritius

It had rained the entire night and the morning was no different. I knew that the day’s schedule would be impacted by the terrible weather. Before leaving the Golden Shell Residence I exchanged a few empty beer bottles for one last swig in the Island. The owner of the Residence also runs a grocery and bakery shop next door, from where I picked up a few buns for the journey. While the stay in the Residence had not been uncomfortable, the apartment could have been better furnished and maintained.

I left for Mahebourg, the last halt in my Mauritian itinerary, in light to heavy rain. The skies were overcast making photography a challenge. Without the aid of an umbrella, the intermittent showers made sightseeing rough and sketchy. The first stop was at the Old French Battery in Ansie Petit Sable. As soon as I stepped out of the car I got drenched and eyewear became useless. The Battery was built out of mortar stones and coral in the 18th century. This Battery, like the many others on the Island, point to the importance of the island to the colonisers over the centuries and the efforts it took to defend territory.

Pointe du Diable is located along the coastal road in the south-east of the island Mauritius. These guns were engaged during the famous naval battle of the Vieux Grand Port in August 1810. Today, Pointe du Diable provides a graphic historical perspective and is an ideal place to appreciate the exceptional view of the Bay of Vieux Grand Port. The stone walls still exist and traces of the effects of the great naval battle are still visible. The jetty of Bois-des-Amourettes was built by the British for WWII support, to land fuel for its airplanes located in Plaisance, close to the present day commercial airport.

Fort Frederik-Hendrik was where five Dutch ships cast anchor on 1 September 1598. They named the island after their prince, Maurice van Nassau. The fort was constructed in 1638 by the Dutch and was eventually abandoned in 1710. The French took over the remains in 1722 and did the best they could before moving their establishment to Port Louis. The existing ruins are remains of compounds erected by the French who came to Mauritius after the Hollanders’ departure. They consist of ruins of the governor’s main residence, a bakery and a building which sheltered a store, a forge and a prison cell.

Now it is part of a Museum surrounded by a luxuriant tropical garden and includes a visitors’ centre with an exhibition of artefacts found during archaeological excavations in the area since 1997 ruins. Reproduction of historical paintings and maps of the 17th century are also displayed in the complex. A plaque was placed within the premise in 1998 to commemorate the 400th anniversary of the Dutch landing in Mauritius.

Directly opposite the Fort ruins complex is the Notre Dame du Grand Pouvoir School. The Fille de Marie sisters settled in Mahebourg in 1865. Two sisters were deputed to Vieux Grand Port to run classes during the week and they returned to their community in Mahebourg over the weekend in dugout canoes. When the sisters came to live in Grand Port by 1896 the convent was built behind the school, which can be seen even today.

The denomination of “Notre Dame du Grand Pouvoir” is unique to Mauritius and it is said that they were the safe keepers of a wooden stature of the Virgin that was discovered in the beach in 1900. The statue was later placed within the Notre Dame du Grand Pouvoir church. When I visited the convent in search of the wooden statue I was directed by a nun to the church where I spent some time in front of the wooden statue of Our Lady in prayer.

I was disappointed when I got to Point Canon. It was closed and I was itching to take a look. Therefore, I jumped the fence at its lowest point and tentatively walked around to see if I would scuffed up and sent out. Nothing of that sort happened and I grew in confidence with every passing minute. Pointe Canon is an interesting place with a nice overview of the different sites surrounding Mahebourg. One can see the imposing Lion Mountain that overlooks the sugar cane fields, Mouchoir Rouge islet, facing the waterfront, and Ile aux Aigrettes further north, a small protected island located in the lagoon and which is also a nature reserve.

There is an amphitheatre and a monument to commemorate the abolition of slavery in Mauritius. Local inhabitants aggregate here for regattas and the commemoration of the abolition of slavery celebrations in February. It also has a renovated powder store that was part of a small battery in the 17th century. As I was nearing the end of my exploration a genial person came to me and politely told me that the place was closed for the day. I thanked the gentleman, more for being civil with me and not berating me for the trespass, and left quietly.

The Grand Port Naval Battle memorial commemorating a rare French victory over the British fleet in 1810 is at the Mahebourg waterfront, which is ideal for a relaxing walk apart from savouring slices of Mauritian history. Close by there is also a memorial called Bataille de le Passe that pays homage to the fighters who lost their lives in the battle. The waterfront also has a statue of Swami Sivananda, a temple and well paved walkways; an ideal place to spend an evening in solitude.

The historical Cavendish Bridge, also known as ‘Pont la Ville Noire’, is the only route that links Ville Noire and Mahebourg across the La Chaux River. The Bridge was constructed between 1908 and 1911. The concrete bridge was constructed at that time beside the existing wooden bridge. The bridge is approximately 200 m long with a 6 m wide carriageway and 1.25 m wide footway on each side of the carriageway and is considered to be the longest in Mauritius. It was designed on the London Bridge of Lake Havasu City. It started to rain while I was completing my walk on the bridge admiring the River and the reflections of the sky and houses on the river.

As the Ecozy Studio I had booked for the stay in Mahebourg was close by I decided to go and rest a while there. What a place the accommodation turned out to be! A compact one bedroom studio with a veranda, living cum dining, toilet and shower. Small, but so tastefully done up with plenty of double entendres on the walls, especially in the toilet. The bed was comfortable too. I could park the car inside the compound. Had it not been for the rain I could have sipped my beer in the well maintained lawn.

When the rain abated a bit I drove to the Notre Dame des Agnes Church, which is a simple, yet regal, Catholic Church. Its butter-coloured tower dominates the Mahébourg skyline. The original church was built in 1849, but it has been restored several times over the years; the baronial roof timbers are worth a quick peek. Local people visit throughout the day to make offerings to the beloved missionary Père Laval, who was known as the “Apostle of Mauritius” due to his untiring works for the poor, sick and infirm.

The National History Museum, earlier known as the Naval Museum as it housed many artefacts from undersea expeditions around Grand Port. During the Naval Battle of Grand Port in 1810 the Robillard Castle, as it was known then, served as a hospital where the British and French commanders were treated side by side. The state acquired the estate and converted it into a museum in 1950. At the time of my visit the museum was closed.

Mouchoir Rouge, Ile aux Fouquets, Ile aux Vacoas, Ile de la Passe, Ile aux Aigrettes and Ile des Deux Cocos in Blue Bay are islets of Grand Port. They are majestic; the water level is supposed to have risen 130 metres in 80,000 years giving rise to the islets by distancing the coral barrier reefs. Over time the islets became natural reserves, fortifications and one even houses a hotel.

The Blue Bay was the last stop for the stay in Mauritius. As the name suggests, Blue Bay is famous for its crystal clear oceanic water which is surrounded by spectacular white sand and huge casuarinas trees that truly defines the real beauty of marine life and the amazing weather. Reflecting bright colours and a charming landscape, the Blue Bay Beach is one of the most welcoming and visited ones on the island. The presence of policemen in large numbers, not often seen, is an indication that wanton acts in the name of New Year’s Eve revelry will not be tolerated.

That wound up the truly amazing stay in the lovely island of Mauritius amidst sparkling cerulean waters, sugar icing shores, soft sage palms and jagged indigo mountains that frame the land with ethereal wonder. The nation is home to some of the best water sports and cuisine in the world, too. I drove back to Ecozy Studio to enjoy an evening in reflection, sipping a beer and repacking the bags for the return to India.

30 December 2023 – Day 8 – Pereybere to Trou d’Eau Douce, Mauritius

The vacation in Mauritius is coming to an end, with just two more days left to go. I had booked an apartment in Trou d'Eau Douce - don't ask me to pronounce it - with the idea of spending the better part of the day in Ile aux Cerfs - another unpronounceable - the most talked about attraction in the eastern part of the Island. As things panned out, I was a couple of hours late for the departures from Trou d'Eau Douce.

I changed my initial route to stay on the coast all the way from Pereybere to Trou d'Eau Douce, which meant that I travelled once again through Cap Maheareaux and Grand Gauba, where I had been the previous day. My only halts were in the Pointe Lafayette viewpoint and the Poste Lafayette public beach. At the viewpoint there was a police patrol manned by 4 officials. They were obviously keeping watch to avoid any untoward from the New Year revelry - patrolling has started much in advance. The viewpoint had rocks and shallow reefs making swimming difficult and signposts warned the daring to stay away because of the currents. Anyway, there was no one in sight.

The scene at the Poste Lafayette public beach was different - a few people were already sunning at that early hour, some were doing parasailing and banana boat rides. The wild and tropical side of the beach makes it very much desirable for the nature lovers. The coral reefs are rich in marine and are the most authentic part of this beach, reportedly. At the entrance to the public beach is an abandoned storage cum watch tower.

Not very far from that is a poignant memorial for those who had lost their lives in a South African Airways air crash in the area on 27 November 1987. The aircraft, a Boeing 747 Combi, transporting passengers and cargo, experienced a devastating in-flight fire in the cargo area before crashing into the Indian Ocean East of Mauritius, killing all 159 people on board. The incident proved to be a complicated case, resulting in numerous debates and conspiracy theories, with certain aspects remaining unclear even to this day.

My booking in Trou d’Eau Douce was in an apartment called Golden Shell Residence. Google Maps did not take me to the exact location, but a call to the owner settled matters. I had to park in the street for a while when I completed the check-in formalities, for which I had to wait some time. Once the entries were made and the paperwork completed I lugged the bags up two floors to the suite room with a balcony. I encountered ants in the bed and duly reported it to the owner, who gave instructions to change the sheets and clean the room once again. The accommodation was just about adequate. I parked the car inside the gate of the Residence and went out for a walk to check if I could make it to the Ile aux Cerfs. I warned at the Residence itself that even if I found someone to take me to the island they would be pricey.

Ensconced amidst sugar cane fields and sandy stretches of the east coast is Trou D'Eau Douce, which means “Fresh Water Hole” in English. A renowned fishing village, it is believed to be named after a natural spring. The Trou d'Eau Douce beaches are small, but they are very popular for the rides to Ile aux Cerfs - a picturesque island spread over 87 hectares of untouched land off the east coast of Mauritius. It is famous for its white sandy beaches, its turquoise lagoons and for the wide range of restaurants, water sports and land activities on offer. It is also home to one of the most beautiful golf courses in the world, the Ile aux Cerfs Golf Club, an 18-hole championship golf course designed by two-time Masters Champion Bernhard Langer. It is the largest lagoon in Mauritius and people opt to spend a whole day on the island enjoying the luxuriant vegetation, white, sandy beaches and water sports.

As I turned the corner from the Residence I came to a large Roman Catholic Church – the Notre Dame du Bon Secours. Constructed in 1990, the massive stone masonry structure looms large in the village. After exploring the church I spent a few moments in prayer thanking Our Lady for having brought me to the church to seek her intercession. The church was a simple structure but done up aesthetically with many stained glass windows letting the light in. It was neatly maintained.

When I walked out on to the street I saw a couple of accommodations I had explored on Booking.com like the pricey La Koquilliche B&B. There is a watch tower, which looked recently restored, from where one can get lovely views of the Ocean and the surrounding areas.

I walked by a small kiosk where many ‘pickled’ fruits were on display; they are known as fruits confit. The lady who minded the store was of Indian Origin – from Bihar. I bought mango and pineapple slices spruced with tamarind jam and chilli salt. The pineapple was delicious – didn’t think much of the mango.

Having missed out on the scheduled departures I was being quoted ridiculous rates for a hop to the island and back, which I declined. The beach looked deserted as the tourists would be enjoying the idyllic Ile aux Cerfs, I surmised. The outstanding beach houses caught my attention for some time and I walked along the shallow waters enjoying the calm.

While walking back to the accommodation I stopped at a traditional restaurant for lunch. I was more than happy to rest a while in the shade of the restaurant roof; some respite from the fierce sun. It did not take much time for the dimsum and steamed noodle broth to be handed to me. One sip of the broth and my mouth was on fire. As it is, my tolerance for spicy food is near zero. I felt that the roof of my mouth and the tongue were burnt by the broth. I ordered a mawa kulfi to cool the insides and barely got through the noodles and dimsums carefully avoiding the broth.

In the evening I spent time taking in the narrow lanes and by-lanes of the village and visiting the embarkation point, Debarcadere, which was lively with young locals near sundown. Located in a fairly isolated location, the Landing Station in Trou-d'Eau-Douce was once frequented mainly by fishermen. A former village councillor and social worker, the late Louis Ange Sheik Hossen, took matters into his own hands and converted it into a place of relaxation for the residents with a kiosk, bench, as well as floor lamps. Even toilets were provided. As a token of his contribution, the village council, as well as members of the forces, posthumously installed a bust of Louis Ange Sheik Hossen there.

Over the years, with the changes that were made, it has ended up attracting a large number of tourists. Once the skies get lit by the setting sun, the fishermen and boat crew celebrate the close of yet another successful day with a few sundowners and cheerful music, laced with blurry banter.

29 December 2023 – Day 7 – Pereybere, Mauritius

After a breakfast of cereal and milk I started out on my day’s schedule. The Sir Seewoosagaur Ramgoolam Botanical Garden is commonly known as the Pamplemousses Botanic Garden and is the oldest botanical gardens in Mauritius. The garden was first constructed by Pierre Poivre in 1770 and is famous for its long pond of giant Amazonian water lilies. The garden covers an area of around 37 hectares, is historical and well maintained. Pamplemousses was probably the earliest of the 'botanical gardens' in the tropics; maintained as a nursery for the acclimatization of potential crop plants from overseas mostly from Europe and the East. Chief among the first introductions was cassava (manioc), which Labourdonnais brought from Brazil to provide food for the island's slaves. 

The Samadhi of SSR is within the garden and there is a memorial to Aniruddh Jagannath, too. It was good to see trees planted by Indira Gandhi, Rajiv Gandhi and Vajpayee and an avenue named after Indira Gandhi in the Botanical Garden. The giant Talipot palm is a flowering plant with the largest inflorescence in the world. It lives up to 60 years before bearing flowers and fruits. It dies shortly after. The white lily pond, tortoise and deer pens, the colonial Mon Plaisir building and a massive boabab tree are other attractions in the Botanical Garden where an entrance fee of 300 MUR is levied. A guided tour is also available at 75 MUR per person.

The L'Aventure du Sucre is astonishing and one can understand why it has over a 100,000 footfalls annually. L’Aventure du Sucre is a former sugar factory that has been carefully restored following its closure in 1999, after 200 years in operation. This heritage site is a trailblazer for cultural tourism in Mauritius; the eco-museum offers a 5,000 m² educational trail and ten themed interactive areas that invite visitors to discover the history of an island shaped by sugar and the secrets of sugarcane.

It also tells the story of colonisation, indentured labour, the life and times, culture, flora and fauna and much, much more. A serious visitor will invest a full day here. The entrance fee of 700 MUR includes a tasting session of 11 types of sugar and many varieties of rums, whiskeys and liqueurs; there is no limit to what one can imbibe as long as one doesn't give the impression that you are there to drink - you have to have the air of a connoisseur! Unfortunately, I had to limit my intake as I had a Swift to motor around and many more places to visit.

The Van Ann chocolate factory was founded in 1992 and was named after its creator, the Belgian Ann Van Den Bergh. Ann landed in Mauritius in 1983 and decided to launch into chocolate production. She imported her raw material from Belgium to make her unique creations. The Van Ann chocolatier factory visits stopped with the onset of pandemic and is yet to resume. Moreover, since the factory was closed due to the New Year break the shop had little to offer. Moreover, the two girls who were manning the retail outlet was least interested in entertaining a visitor in the holiday season.

Built in 1856 and inhabited by a Mauritian family for over 150 years, the Château de Labourdonnais invites visitors to discover the 19th-century art of living in Mauritius along with a visit to the estate and complimentary juice and rum tasting - 4 rums, 6 liqueurs and juice. The furniture made of quality timber and rattan, the exquisite crockery and outstanding flooring stood out during the visit. The entrance fee is 700 MUR and there is an excellent restaurant on the premises.

Poudre d'Or became a popular tourist site due to a couple of reasons. First is the memorial in tribute to the sinking of the Saint-Géran in 1744 off the coast of Poudre d'Or with 167 people on board, of which only 9 survived. This maritime disaster inspired Bernardin de Saint-Pierre for his novel Paul and Virginie. Second, this is where the plot of the novel Les Rochers de Poudre d'Or (2003) by the Mauritian novelist Nathacha Appanah takes place, about Indian "indentured laborers" working since the end of the 19th century in sugar cane farms. The beach is frequented by locals mostly.

By the time I got to Goodlands I was hungry as hell. I walked into a KFC outlet and had fried chicken and fries. The market in Goodlands is probably the most prominent thing there. The shops, locally known as ‘tabaji’ are beautifully decorated with coloured fabrics and dresses. Apart from clothing and accessories, fruits and vegetable shopping is a big part of the attraction. The local produce is put out for sale every day. The aromas that float around the food joints tempt one to try out local and traditional fare. What is known as Ice Gola in India is a big hit with locals and visitors alike. The market was extremely busy with people buying up things from table mats to new dresses and gorging on food and drink.

The Grand Gaube beach, because of its more rustic and rocky landscapes that are not adapted to swimming and water sports, is normally not that much in favour as her sister beaches in Pereybere, Trou aux Biches and Mont Choisy. As the seabed of Grand Gaube beach is full of corals and the sand strip are limited Grand Gaube is a mostly a deserted beach. It has little to offer from a purely touristic point of view.

The Anse La Raie beach mystifies by its tranquil beauty. The charm of Anse La Raie lies in its calm and serene ambiance. It is smallish beach, but with lots of water sports. I particularly liked the recycled use of plastic bottles to float a ‘statue’ in the water.

The red church, Notre Dame de Auxiliatrice is on the bank of a pretty beach in Cap Malheureux. Its bright red roof against the azure skies and turquoise blue waters is striking. This Roman Catholic Church is one of the most renowned in the country. The simple chapel was founded in 1938 and is dedicated to the Virgin Mary. It is situated at the very northern point of Mauritius, offering breath-taking views of the five northern islets. Cap Malheureux translates to “Unfortunate/Unhappy Cape”, due to the numerous ships which floundered there in the past.

With that, the tour of the northern part of Mauritius was over and so also a week on the lovely island.