The Maputo Files – 28 March 2022 – Day 3 In Maputo

Almost all of what I had wanted to see in Maputo was done in the past two days. I did do a lot more than was on my agenda. This day being the last full day in Maputo I planned to visit two initiatives of Mozambique Holdings as well as the Missionaries of Charity House in Maputo. Sevi offered to pick me up on his way to the office. Dark rain clouds had been gathering since dawn.

Mozambique Holdings is the largest provider of uniforms to the uniformed services in the country such as the police, army and para military. They operate two units in and around Maputo headed by a senior person, Manoj. The two companies are Faumil and Inomil. Daily uniforms, raincoats, camouflage, bedsheets, pillow cases, caps, boots, belts, epaulettes, jackets, et al are made in these facilities. The units employ almost 500 people and the fabric and accoutrements are imported from various parts of the world. The senior management of the factory stays in the flats of the company within the premises. The supply of uniforms has been an ongoing business of the group for more than 20 years. It is run at such a level of efficiency that governments from neighbouring countries visit the factories to try and put together a similar facility in their own country. Indian politicians, ministers and business people have visited the superbly organised factory. The entries in the visitors' book have some of the most important names in world polity, business and influencers. By the time the quick tour was over it had started raining heavily. In no time many sections of the road to the airport was inundated.

After an interaction with Sevi and Jose I was given a car and driver for the next two visits. The first was to the House of the Missionaries of Charity. Ali, on behalf of KazmunaiServices, had donated a Mahindra vehicle to the sisters for transporting the sick and the infirm. When I told Ali that I would be visiting Maputo he requested me to visit the House and see for myself how they were doing. The visit was truly a humbling experience. The House is managed by six sisters of whom a Polish nun is the Superior.

At the time of my visit only three sisters were in the House, all three from India. A sister from Bihar took me around all the facilities in the House. There are different sections for older men, women, adolescent girls and small children. Many of them are HIV positive and abandoned by their families. Many are mentally affected due to abandonment and a few were afflicted by tuberculosis. The accommodation and refectories were spic and span. The House depended purely on goodwill and donations. The school has 520 children being taught in two shifts. All of them are given a meal of porridge in the House daily. The vehicle donated by Ali is in good condition with regular attention by the Mahindra team. The driver was happy with its performance. The yeoman work of the Sisters in that extremely challenging environment is truly praiseworthy.

Mozambique Holdings had commissioned a state of the art pharmaceutical manufacturing unit in Maputo in 2018. Initially a partnership with Strides Arcolab, Mozambique Holdings bought out its partner a couple of years ago and is now operating the facility as a single owner. All the medicines, capsules, tablets and dry powders, are supplied to the Ministry of Health all over the country. The production is exclusively for the government. Great care is taken to ensure zero contamination and laid down ISO procedures. As in the clothing factory, here too all the workers are local people, except the supervisors and top management who are expats, mostly from India.

The evening was reserved for an exhaustive gastronomic experience. Sevi picked me up for a drink in the awesome home of Dolly and Jose. The massive, solidly constructed and tastefully decorated house, in a celebrity lane of Maputo, was where I had a couple of Ardberg pegs on the rocks over enlightening conversation about the country and life. Dolly had made some of the finest minced meat samosas I have ever had in my life. The specially roasted and salted cashews also went down the hatch during the absorbing conversation.

Zambi restaurant is located on the Maputo bayfront with a lovely balcony overlooking the Indian Ocean and Catembe a bit beyond. The lit up Catembe Bridge looked like stars on a far horizon from Zambi. Jose and Deepak are connoisseurs of food and drink. Their knowledge of the details of every dish ordered and every other stuff on the menu floored me. Deepak had ordered the starters, steamed Langoustine tails and Garlic Shrimp. Jose showed me how the Langoustine tails should be shelled. The meat was exceptional. When the fish is done just right one gets the proper taste of the fish. I had them without any sauce so as to savour the juicy meat. 

The garlic Shrimp, served on toast, was beyond description. It was so yummy that I gorged on them and forgot that grilled tiger prawns were next on order. When they arrived I had to take a break and wait for the previous feast to settle down. The huge tiger prawns, grilled and cut down the middle, spruced with garlic butter and lime were delectable. The meat is thicker and very filling. A couple of them and my stomach started to protest further indulgence. However, to me a dessert alone can signify end of a meal, especially dinner. I turned to the quintessential Portuguese pudding, generally regarded as the parent of the Indian caramel custard pudding. The Portuguese pudding is firmer and does not have as much of the caramel sauce as the Indian caramel custard pudding.

It was time to take leave of Jose, Dolly and Deepak who gave me the best taste of Mozambique, in every respect. Having been in Mozambique for over three decades, Jose and Dolly were treasure troves of information about the country, its people, their customs and culinary practices. Deepak, a thorough gentleman and I have come to believe that all my travels are a means to meet souls who I travel with through time and space. If one has such co-travellers one has to feel truly blessed.