The Maputo Files – 27 March 2022 – Day 2 In Maputo

To say that I slept like a log may not be far from the truth. When I opened the eyes I sought out the phone, almost in panic. I had promised Sevi to be ready by 6.45 am to be picked up for Sunday Mass. I managed to get ready before he arrived at the accommodation. The 'chor bazaar' of Maputo is on the road leading to the church, where two South Indian priests celebrated mass. With scattered seating, a gift of Covid, the church was full.

After service, Sevi took me to his commodious terrace flat with awesome views of the Indian Ocean. The property was co-developed by Mozambique Holdings in the prestigious Presidencia, where the President's residence used to be in the colonial times. The neighborhood is barricaded and guarded by President's guards. Jessie, Sevi's wife, who teaches higher sections in the nearby international school, offered mouth watering Appam and vegetable stew with coffee for breakfast.

The Mahindra dealership was established by Mozambique Holdings more than two decades ago and now they are the market dealers in the country, selling more than 100 vehicles a more. Their market share is over 25% owing to their better customer service and wider visibility. The most popular vehicle is the twin cab Scorpio pick up. Their major dealership is in the city, opposite the Mozambique National Bank, with a huge yard to back up the showroom. The plans to expand are on the anvil.

The Central Market of Maputo was established by the Municipality in 1909. The premises are neat and clean with vendors taking extra precaution not to litter the place. Vegetables, fruits, dried fish, pickled items, shrimps, cashews, grains, cane products, variety of herbs and aromatic herbs, etc are available on sale. Quite a few vendors hailed out to Sevi because he is a regular in the market. Parking in the Central Market lot is controlled by a fee.

The railways and its connected ports are governed by a single entity, CFM. Nearly 3000 km of metre gauge lines, much of it under rehabilitation, serve the three ports of Maputo (South Africa), Biera (Zimbabwe) and Nacala (Malawi). The iconic Maputo railway station is considered one of the finest in the world and there is a permanent museum inside the station with displays of old railway equipment, locomotive, coaches and the like. There is also a popular restaurant operated beside one of the platforms. The station has over 12 platforms, but business did not seem to warrant that many.

In the square facing the Maputo railway station is the statue commemorating the participation of Mozambique in the World Wars and the fallen Portuguese soldiers. Beside the railway station is the entrance to the Maputo Port, with DP World operating the container terminal.

Catembe is a suburb of Maputo. In the past the only means of getting there was by the ferry. With the commissioning of the Maputo-Catembe Bridge across the Maputo Bay the ferry has fallen into disuse. The 3.6 km Maputo-Catembe suspension bridge was commissioned in 2018 and is tolled.

The Delgao Bay in Catembe used to be a favourite with tourists, but bears a bare look now. The old ferries and tug boats docked at Catembe tells the story of a vibrant cross bay traffic in the past. Before leaving Catembe Sevi took me to meet two Indian priests who are stationed there. From Catembe is the 120 km road to Ponta do Ouro, Portuguese for "tip of gold", referring to the cape at the end of the beach. The town is known for its beach, dolphins, offshore diving and deep-sea fishing.

The Jardim Dos Namorados, Lovers Garden, is a spacious lung area overlooking the Maputo Bay. Sevi told me that the place has undergone a sea change with renovations, new facilities and renewed managements. There are cafes, restaurants and a children's play area, beautifully landscaped and inviting for families. The Bay looks gorgeous from the garden.

Lunch with Sevi and Jessie was at the Khana Khazana. The food was truly authentic and a few India families were seen lounging amidst animated banter and a few pints of beer. I tried out the Laurentina dark and the Txilar beers, both local, the former tasting something like the Guinness. The kadak roti and dal fry were very tasty.

Sevi took me in a drive of the upmarket Marginal Avenue. The beach-fronted road has popular restaurants like the Costa do Sol, an air-conditioned fish market from where one can buy fish and get it prepared to one's liking in one of the nearby restaurants, priced residential apartments, artistically painted containers vending popular food and handicrafts and a long calm shoreline. Being a weekend the restaurants and the beach were well patronised.

It had been a long day, but spent with new found friends it passed almost unnoticed.