I had scheduled an extra day in Maun to get a glimpse of the Okavango Delta, a vast inland river delta in northern Botswana. It is known for its vast grassy plains, which flood between June and November, thereby becoming a lush animal habitat. Dugout canoes, called mokoro, are used by expert polemen to navigate the shallow waters of the Delta past hippos, elephants and crocodiles. Other wildlife on land includes lions, leopards, giraffes and rhinos. I spoke to a couple of tour operators recommended by Maun Lodge and got the disappointing news that mokoro canoe tours were suspended due to low water level and a Moremi Game Reserve Safari would be game sighting-wise disappointing due to the weather and tall vegetation. The other activities include helicopter and Cessna rides to get a 45 minute aerial view of the Delta. Since I am a single traveller I was told that I would have to pay nearly double the per person charges for that indulgence!
With all the above options closed for filling up the extra day in Maun I sought out a couple of lesser known options after breakfast, which is complimentary with the tariff. The buffet is not a very elaborate affair but is substantial. One has to wear a mask and a glove to approach the buffet counters. There was red grape and orange juices to start followed by four different cereals and hot milk. Beef and pork sausages, baked beans, bacon, toast, a choice of jams, marmalade and butter, layered chicken, egg of one's choice, fat cake, muffin and phaphata. Of course, a wide selection of teas and coffee were available too. I took my time over the meal and was a few kilos heavier by the time I left the dining.
The Motsana complex, which means "mosquito" in Tswana, is a black building that looks like a scale model of a rocket launch site. The sinister facade notwithstanding, the unusual mall has a nice little café where people can gather for lunch or just indulge in a coffee and a piece of cake, as I did.
One of the shops had bamboo yarn and knitwear made of the yarn, exquisite stuff. It also had hollowed out and dried gourd skins, brightly painted and decorated. A small section of the store has a collection of books where one can leave a book and take another. They recycle used garments too. The mall has a hair salon, a beauty salon and a shop selling antique furniture. There is a play area for children too. On the first floor there are a couple of halls that are used for yoga and dance classes. Occasional art shows, exhibitions and a friendly local market run out of this facility established by a woman entrepreneur in 2010.
The Old Bridge Backpackers is about 10 km out of Central Maun. Fronting the lovely bar and dining area is the Tamalakane River. To its side is the Matlapana Bridge, reportedly the oldest bridge in Maun originally built in the 1930s. It has been rebuilt and reconstructed many times. Only pedestrian traffic is permitted across the bridge nowadays. From the bridge and the Backpackers one can enjoy hippos and crocs, the place is called the hippo pool for the large number of hippos that populate the area. However, I was told that presently only one hippo and a small croc can be seen. My luck with wildlife continues!
On the way back to the Lodge I found a number of cars parked in the clearance of a thicket and a few people gathered there. It looked like a religious congregation. Curious to know more I got down to where the cars were parked. As I started to move towards the congregation I was accosted by a person in flowing white robes, presumably a preacher, and asked to remove my shoes and socks.
Then I met Patrick, another preacher, who explained that it is a Zimbabwean congregation called Joan Masowe or church of St John the Baptist. He told me that they gathered here on Fridays and Sundays, with the gathering being much bigger on the holiday. We talked a bit about the mission and then we were joined by Matara, a Motswana, who is well read and social media savvy. They gave me permission to photograph the congregation from a distance without violating their church space. The congregation brought home the fact that God is present where a few are gathered and take His name. Elaborate churches and rules and restrictions are only to establish the clergy and not to help the laity.
It was the last night in Maun Lodge and the special indulgence was traditionally cooked chicken for dinner. The meat was so tasty, but very salty. The portion was served with chips and Morogo besides an exceptionally salty broth.
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