The massive storm last night seemed to have kept the elephants away in the morning. They were nowhere to be seen when breakfast was in progress after 7 am. Elephant Sands belongs to Ben Moller, a South African by birth, who bought the property that was once a farm and developed it into what it is today over nearly two decades. The property started with just two small chalets. Now it has 8 chalets and 20 tented accommodation, all with en- suite bathrooms, and many camping sites. Four tented accommodation were blown off in a storm and they are under reconstruction. Being right in the bush it is a haven for elephant lovers. The tag line of Elephant Sands is "Where Elephants Rule". So very true.
Staying at the site means adhering to certain rules stipulated by the property. Music is not permitted, so also littering. Water switches off at 10 pm and comes on at 5 am. The property owners clearly disclaim any liability owing to damage, injury or death caused by animal attack. Fires and cooking are not permitted near the accommodation. There are no plug points for charging inside the accommodation. A common point is available at the bar. Private food and beverage cannot be taken into the lodge and bar. Customers are advised not to stray from beaten paths - actually we cannot know from which direction the elephants will come in from. They are so quiet that the pachyderms will be upon you before you realise it. I was terrified to see them run; their speed takes you by surprise. Feeding elephants is prohibited and so is the use of flash photography in the night.
The drive from Elephant Sands to Nata had a few bad potholes to negotiate in a stretch of 50 km. But the road from Nata to Gweta, about 200 km of A3, had many bad stretches and the maximum speed was only 80 kph because of the road condition and the Makgadikgadi and Nxai Pans National Park. At breakfast I had met Hemant from Vadodara, partner of the successful Farmer's World, who warned me about the road condition that could spoil the rims or play havoc with the suspension if one were careless. Fortunately, the experience of having weathered worse roads in India came in handy. As it turned out, possibly because of the abundant warning from Hemant and Abin, I didn't find the road as bad as I expected. I was told that the road to Gweta has been steadily deteriorating over the past five years and heavy rains added to the problems. One thing I found was adequate forewarning and scientific use of speed restriction markers. If one follows them, the journey can be done without too much hassle other than the frustration of loss of time. As for me, it took me just under five hours for the 375 km, without ever touching the permitted 120 kph for the last 100 km to Maun.
After checking into the luxurious accommodation of Maun Lodge, courtesy Kiron George, my son-in-law, I drove to the Boseja Clinic, recommended by the Lodge reception. I had to dress the bruises and cuts. That's where I met my Guardian Angel of the day, in the form and shape of Ms. Togara. Initially, I was a bit perturbed. I went to a counter and requested for dressing. A lady told me that I would need to see a doctor, which I said was unnecessary. Then I was told that I any require an x-ray. When I said that I didn't need that too I was asked to sit in a bench and wait. Togara came to me and started paperwork, taking down details of previous operations, allergic reactions - didn't mention my wife, though - next of kin - here I had to mention her - age, passport number and how the accident had happened, where and when. Togara immediately linked my name to biblical reference and asked me if I was Christian. The bond was established. She proceeded to take my BP and she could not believe the reading of 185/110. I told her that the abnormal reading was because of her! She asked me to be quiet for a while and repeated it a couple of times and they came out nearly the same level. I reiterated that she was the cause of the high BP. She thought me a hopeless case and abandoned any further reading
She then took me to the consultation room and took off the bandage, thoroughly cleaned the bruises with saline solution and asked me to keep them open for it to heal faster. There was no sign of bleeding. She even packed a few sterile gauze strips in a glove for me to do cleaning every day. And, surprise, surprise. The entire attention was free. I was not charged a single Pula. I kept in asking and she kept on saying it's free. Togara is a mid-wife and she just happened to be at the counter for some other work when she noticed me. The other lady at the counter was not keen to attend to me and Togara volunteered to help me. A Guardian Angel and a fellow soul who travels with me through time and space. Later when I asked for a selfie she insisted on showing her wedding ring lest people think the worst with my tousled appearance!
As I was returning from the clinic I chances upon the Nhabe Museum and drive in. The museum is housed in a 1939 WWII British building which was used as a listening post against German Namibia. Now it is used to showcase local art and culture. Presently, a collection of Vixen Photography is on display and sale. The photographs are so graphic that even minute details are visible. The museum premise also has the Akasia Cafe that serves local delicacies.
I came back to the Lodge and took a tour of the huge property that I overlooks the Tamalakane River. The river is at the southern end of the Okavango Delta and Maun is considered the launching point to the Delta. The delta itself is a creature of geological faults that's rifting East Africa. Some of the prices accommodation of Maun Lodge offer river views. What is available now is just a swamp, smelly at that. One of the things I had planned to do was to be at the riverside. After seeing the swampy river I gave up that part of the itinerary. The huge, sprawling Lodge has a Boma Restaurant, Gym and pools. Every room and chalet provides privacy and comfort.
After a couple of rounds of St. Louis, which had become a routine with an ugly protuberance as evidence, I went to the restaurant for dinner. Live music was on too. There were very few customers and I browsed through the menu for something typically Botswana. That is when I saw the Oxtail stew. I had no hesitation ordering that. I was asked what I wanted it to be served with - rice, salad, pap, Mabele or chips. I chose to try Mabele which is made from sorghum and is considered a superfood for its anti-oxident and glucose lowering capabilities.
The portion of stew was served with Morogo (spinach) and the Oxtail sauce. The stew was fabulous while the Mabele was bland and a bit difficult to finish. I realised that what is good for the body is hardly tasty! Then came the sin. The superb Brandy Snaps Basket, three scoops of vanilla ice-cream topped with strawberry sauce, was so full of calories and sweetness that my diabetes medication would be of no use to withstand the heightened ingestion. That rounded off the day's schedule.
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