The Maputo Files – 26 March 2022 – Day 1 In Maputo

I had done some research on places to visit in Maputo when I was planning the trip in India. I had gone over the same before emplaning from Gaborone. Accordingly, I made out an itinerary for the day whereby I would cover 8 attractions by foot over a distance of 7.5 km. I thought I would fall back on the option of taking a 'combi' in case of any dire need. When I saw how jam packed and crowded the combos were I banished that option from even the recesses of my mind.

After a light breakfast of biscuits and coffee I left for FEIMA that was just 750 meters from my accommodation. From personal accounts in social media I had read that FEIMA would be awfully crowded on the weekends. Fortunately, when I reached the lovely sprawling lung area there was hardly a visitor in sight. The garden is the site, inaugurated in 2010, where local artists, gardeners and chefs delight customers and visitors. A large variety of plants greet visitors close to Entrance 2. The green, thick foliage and healthy shoots told the story of fertile soil and the climate that aided such growth. Right in the centre of the FEIMA are the hundreds of shops that sell local handicrafts. Some of the artisans could be seen working on fresh products and some were dusting the displays for customers who they hoped would be generous with their wallets. The works in ebony, rosewood and sandalwood took my breath away. Christian and tribal themes were, naturally, predominant.

The next section that floored me was that of the painters. The oils and batiks were too good to just pass by. They made you stand and stare. The group of ten artists who displayed their works were on hand to explain the quality of their works. Even exposed to the elements they stayed their course. I asked one of them if they were not worried about their works being stolen from the open stalls. He told me that the guards that lived in the premise ensured the safety of their works. There are two restaurants there that sell exclusive Mozambican cuisine. I confess that I was tempted by the smells to try what was on offer. Because I had much to see and lots to walk I refrained from exercising my palate.

Another 750 meters away was the St. Antony's Church. From a distance the church looks like an enormous lemon squeezer and is impressive. St. Antony, originally from Lisbon in Portugal, died in Padua, Italy and hence, is known as St. Antony of Padua and is the patron saint for lost things. The unusual modern architecture of the Roman Catholic Church and the beauty of its stained-glass windows catch the eye in an instant. Built in the early 1960s, the church underwent its second renovation in 2019. It is in need of further renovation and I read appeals for financial help in many parts of the church. I was amazed to see a very active congregation that was engaged in catechism and prayer.

My next destination was Cine Africa that was almost two km away from the Church. Walking along I admired the old colonial architecture, military club, establishments, churches and a slice of local life. The combis, which seemed the most common way of getting around, were jam-packed and people did not care too much about wearing masks and social distancing was a goner. The infrastructure was certainly under challenge with hardly any maintenance and repairs. The Cine Africa in Avenida 24 de Julho is no longer a movie house but a performance stage. It is one of many Art Deco buildings in Maputo. It used to be the Teatro Manuel Rodrigues when it opened in 1948 where movies, food and fun were the themes. At the time of my visit I found the place run down and beyond repair.

Less than half a km away is the Cathedral of Our Lady Of Immaculate Conception. The magnificent church was visited by Pope John Paul II in 1988 and Pope Francis in 2019. The throne, altar and the vestments used by Pope John Paul II are displayed in an apse in the cathedral. The photograph of Pope Francis kneeling and praying in front of the statue of Our Lady in the church is also displayed prominently. The church was built between 1936 & 1944 and is proximate to the Independence Circle, Municipal City Hall and the Rovuma Hotel.

The Municipal City Hall is the seat of the local government of the capital of the country. The neoclassical building is located on a hill overlooking the Independence Square and was erected in 1947. The Independence Square is dominated by the imposing statue of the first President of independent Mozambique, Samora Machel. In the past it was known as Albuquerque Square with the bronze statue of Albuquerque on horseback occupying the central position. That statue was removed to Maputo Fort and Samora Machel took his place. 

Gustave Eiffel, the architect of the Eiffel Tower, designed the Iron House for the governor of Mozambique, which is located just off the square. Prefabricated in Belgium in the last decade of the 19th century, the Iron House was soon found unsuitable for occupation in tropical climates. Today it is merely a tourist attraction.

The Tunduru Botanical Garden, designed by Thomas Honney in 1885, is just the road from the Iron House. The Garden is a favourite place to celebrate post wedding functions and photo shoots. I thoroughly enjoyed the many post wedding groups dancing to some traditional songs and rhythmic dancing. The Tunduru Park houses several greenhouses with exotic plants, a statue of the "Temple of the Four Goddesses" and landscaped gardens.

From the Garden I walked the straight path to the Maputo Fort, which was getting decked up to host a Jameson Brand promotion event later in the afternoon. The old fort was built by the Portuguese in the mid-19th century near the site of an earlier fort. Inside is a garden and remnants from the era of early Portuguese forays to the area. The huge statue of Albuquerque on horseback, removed from the Independence Square, is available inside the Fort.

The fishing harbour is just about 200 metres from the Fort. At the security gate I was given permission to go inside without taking pictures. The guard, when pestered, told me that I would have to pay him 200 meticals for taking three pictures. I bargained that down and got my stuff done. I was extremely hungry by this time having walked over seven km by then. I spotted the Maputo shopping centre and pared in to see if I could get something to eat there. There were many restaurants inside and I chose the BBQ. I had their specialty hamburger and a large choco frappe. That filled me to the gills.

The Catembe Ferry terminal was next insight. With the opening of the Catembe Bridge, which hogs the horizon, ferries have become redundant to cross the ocean to the island. The coconut palm fringed walkway along the Maputo Bay with buildings of the Ministry of Finance, permanent mission of Mozambique to the UN, Standard Bank, etc and the iconic Zambi restaurant were taken in slowly. Vendors selling sugarcane juice seems to be doing good business in the heat of the afternoon. By the time I got back to the apartment my feet were in a terrible state and the calves started developing cramps, painful cramps that last nearly a half hour. Sweat and tears intermingled for a while.

Dinner was at the Italian restaurant, Maritimo, beside the Ocean. Jose Parayanken, the intrepid entrepreneur, first mover and the most prominent businessman in Mozambique was my host. His wife, Dolly and son, Deepak, were part of the wonderful evening. The story of Jose and his business ventures are too numerous for this post. I listened with awe his experiences in the country where he has been for over 35 years, setting up business after business, supporting the initiatives of the government. The St. Stephen's College and XLRI alumni, despite his commitment to the economy and culture of Mozambique, has maintained strong links with India, making sure that he spends time in his country of birth every year. We discovered relationships, friends and acquaintances over the three hour dinner and discussion. Jose ordered exotic seafood for starters, some lovely Chianti wine and I was treated to a most informative session on Mozambique and the region. How I wished I had more time with them! The main dish was rice with a brilliant salmon fillet followed by a cashew based dessert accompanied by whipped cream and ice cream. The dinner was closed with a portion of delectable port wine. By the time I was dropped back by Deepak my eyes were half closed. It had been a long day with a 13 km walk and three hours of talk!