Wednesday, May 4, 2022

An African Safari - Day 4 – 13 March 2022 - Francistown to Kasane - 516 km

It was to be the longest drive till date in the 15th edition of Record Drive. I had rested well in the lovely home of Aswathy and Abin. That is a prerequisite for a smooth and interrupted drive. Moreover, the mind had been soothed by the filial company of the lovely couple and Aryan. I was meeting them for the first time and they made me feel as if I have known them since long. Some people have the innate ability to make others feel at home. Abin and Aswathy belong to that group. 

Aswathy is a remarkable cook and baker. However, on a matter of principle she has not commercialized her talents. The day began with wishing Abin a very happy birthday. Aswathy had baked a cake for the occasion, a construction site being the theme, celebrating Abin personal and professional life. This wonderful couple and their son, Aryan, have made me a part of the family. Such relationships are the real gain from any travel, I acknowledge.

Abin had suitably warned me of the condition of the roads till Kasane, short stretches that were really bad and had to be carefully negotiated. Moreover, the route passed through game parks and a sharp lookout had to be maintained for animals crossing or frolicking across the road. By and large the 500 plus km was comfortable, with huge potholes in many locations. I used to keep a freight truck ahead of me in bad stretches to be prepared of the potholes. A couple of elephants and warthogs were all that I saw en-route. Nearing Pandamatenga it was heartening to see large swathes of land under cultivation. Local production of fruits and vegetables is being actively encouraged by the government by stopping imports from neighboring countries. This policy immediately reflected on the availability of fruits and vegetables in the market. Potatoes and cabbages became rare and costly.

Just short of Pandamatenga I was waved down by a traffic patrol. Two speed boards, one 60 and the other 80, were placed at a distance of less than 100 metres. I had reduced speed to 60 while passing the speed board. When I sighted the 80 I increased speed about 20 feet short of the board that permitted 80. Despite making a fervent appeal for amnesty the young officer politely took out his challan register and wrote out a fine of BWP 460. He had a printed and laminated ready-reckoner to calculate the fine. Despite the delay for paying the fine I covered the distance to Kasane in a few minutes and 6 hours.

Abin had made arrangements for my stay and activities with Logan Safaris, who owner, Elias, Abin knew personally. I was booked into their Lodge near Kazungula, which has eight rooms, a kitchen and a dining. The small pool would be a good place to cool off in the seating summer heat. Elias happened to be in Gaborone on work. His able assistant, a multi-tasker who manned the reception, got the rooms ready, swept and mopped the entire lodge, told me that Elias had made arrangements for a game drive in the afternoon. I had hoped to do the boat cruise and view the sunset from the Chobe River. Elias spoke to me and said that due to a paucity of tourists he was unable to find someone to take me on the boat cruise. Instead he said he had arranged a game drive, gratis. I agreed because of the change in my schedule.

I was supposed to have gone to Zimbabwe tomorrow to view the Victoria Falls and stay there overnight, enjoying a traditional Boma dinner with traditional artists performing the drums and other instruments. On my way to Kasane, Elias informed that I required an RTPCR test result for entry into Zimbabwe, which meant that I had limit the Victoria Falls trip to just a day venture. This day being a Sunday, I would have to do the test tomorrow morning.

As I was mentally prepared for the Game Drive, the receptionist, Michelle, informed that they were able to find someone to do the boat cruise and that I would have to report at the Spar market in Kasane as soon as I could. I gathered my backpack and drive to the appointed rendezvous location, where I was met by the tall Cherish. He took me to a private jetty just behind the market complex. The small boat already had three guests seated in it. Later, we were joined by another couple.

The Chobe National Park, established in 1967, is the second largest wilderness park in Botswana encompassing over 11,700 sq km. The National Park is mainly known for its large herds of Elephants and Cape Buffaloes. The Chobe River is the northern boundary of the Chobe National Park and it also marks the boundary between Botswana and Namibia near Kasane. The waters are shared, but you can step on to the respective lands only with valid visa. The Chobe River cruise is one of the recommended activities in Kasane.

Besides spotting many birds and being explained its speciality by an exceptionally gifted guide of Cherry Safari, the group of six in a small boat had close sightings of elephants, hippos, crocs, buffaloes and warthogs. Many luxury lodges and hotels dot the riverine coast on both sides. Specially fitted out crafts take enthusiastic wildlife photographers to indulge in their passion. The guides on the boats communicate efficiently to share information on possible sightings.

The Sedudu Island in the Chobe River was a disputed real estate between Botswana and Namibia. In early 1990s, the International Court of Justice settled the dispute in favour of Botswana. Since then Botswana has ensured that its flag fly in the island at all times, asserting its possession. The three hour boat ride lasted till sunset.

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