10 May 2022 – An Oman Holiday

There's never a dull moment at the Chennai International Airport. Check in was open at the Oman Air counter when I arrived well in advance of the flight. Despite the web check-in and relatively few passengers the process took forever. Reason? Windows update of the terminals serving web check-in passengers! I appealed to the supervisor to allot another working counter. Even though the request was ignored for some time it did elicit a positive response after others too started making a similar demand. What surprised me is the lack of proactive action from the airline staff. Why should such matters reach a level where irate passengers get to the end of their tether? After the check-in was finally negotiated came the Immigration counter. The officer seemed more keen on what was happening in the next counter than what he was supposed to do at his. Socialising at the work place is prime. The passenger comes next.

The icing on the cake was the CISF security check. Firstly, there was just one baggage check line open and one security check gate. When I enquired why the baggage was not moving the bored CISF guy pointed to many bags not removed from the belt after his scan. Reason? There was just one security person taking his own time personally checking the passengers. There were tens of CISF personnel just hanging around and only one line for baggage and passenger! But, what stumped me was when I was asked to remove the small tin of talcum powder from my toilet kit! Can you imagine that talcum powder is prohibited from being carried in the cabin baggage? When I asked the lady CISF security supervisor I was shown a BCCA advice of 3 March 2022 that prohibited talcum powder in cabin baggage. When asked why that was neither mentioned at the time of check in or intimated through the airline the lady said that they are unable to publicize the large number of prohibited items!!

The flight was full and on time. The turbulence while the flight was across Maharashtra made me wonder if the political turbulence on the ground was responsible for the air turbulence. Well South of Mumbai the flight path took the sea route and everything quieted out. It was a pleasure getting a bird's eye view of the Omani coast line. Vast stretches of rocky hills, well laid out settlements and a lovely coast unfolded from the air.

The immigration in Muscat was a non-fussy arrangement after the flight landed before time at 1730. The officials are given an ambience to work in aided by technology and they work professionally keeping the requirements of the public they serve. The number of counters and the fast service ensured that the visa stamping was done in less than three minutes. The large number of passengers didn't matter. The systems, processes and staff were tuned to serve large numbers without inconvenience. The security and immigration staff were polite and helpful.

After immigration came baggage clearance. My bags were already on the belt when I arrived there. The next stop was at the Omantel counter to take a local sim. I was told that the 6 OMR plan would give me free incoming calls, 4.5 GB data and 100 minutes of outgoing calls even to India. I had to only given them my passport to get the activation also done.

The dollar company was my car rental service provider, with who I had booked a Nissan Micra for three days' tour of Muscat. I went to the counter and confirmed my reservation and told them that I would be there the next morning by 7.30 am for the car.

Once all this was done I rang up Mathew Zachariah, aka Binu, who had graciously agreed to host me in Muscat. Our families go a long way and Binu and I grew up together in Trivandrum, Kerala. In fact, it is he and his wife, Meena, who came to my rescue when I faced the gravest crisis in my life, that of the demolition of my flat in Maradu in 2020. Having seen the news on TV in Muscat he offered his superbly furnished villa in Panangad for "as long as I wished to stay". Such interventions in life show you that the Almighty manifests in many ways and through different people. The three storeyed villa of Meena and Binu in Al Azaiba was just a 10 minute drive from the airport. We spent the rest of the evening catching up and planning the itinerary in Muscat.

The Maputo Files – 28 March 2022 – Maputo to Gaborone

My brief, but most enjoyable, visit to Maputo has come to an end. A brief recap of the city is in order. Maputo was officially named Lourenço Marques until 1976, after chief Maputsu I of the Tembe clan, a subgroup of Tsonga people. Maputo, the capital city is the most populous city of Mozambique. The city has a population of 1,088,449 (2017) distributed over a land area of 347,69 km2. Maputo is a port city, with an economy centered on commerce. In fact, Maputo is the closest port for Johannesburg, being closer than Durban. The major exports through the port are cotton, chromite, sisal, hardwood, sugar and copra. Maputo is noted for its vibrant cultural scene and distinctive, eclectic architecture. Four major rivers empty into the Indian Ocean near where Maputo is situated. How cosmopolitan the city is can be gauged from the diverse languages spoken like Bantu, Tsonga, Portuguese, Arabic, Chinese and Indian languages as well as the cultures.

Maputo has a number of interesting landmarks like the Maputo Railway Station, the fortress, Independence Square, City Hall, Catembe Ferry, Tunduru Botanical Park, Iron House, Central Market, Natural History Museum and the Bay. The city must have been one of the most aesthetically attractive cities in the world at one time, for the current dilapidated condition speaks volumes of its past. The wide tree lined avenues, carefully planned blocks and a salubrious climate earned the city names such as City of Acacias and Pearl of the Indian Ocean. The educational scene in the city is enhanced by the Pedagogical University, Sao Tomas University and the oldest University in the country, the Eduardo Mondlane University.

I was at the Maputo airport by 6 am for the 7.40 am departure, thanks to Sevi. South Africa has removed need for RTPCR test result and Botswana had waived that for triple vaccinated guests a month ago. The check-in clerk asked me for RTPCR test result and I asserted that I did not need one being a triple vaccinated traveller. He checked on the computer and then demanded to see my visa for Botswana. He did not seem satisfied to issue the boarding pass with the multiple entry visa in my passport. He cross-checked with another colleague and issued my boarding passes duly booking the baggage through to Gaborone.

When I put my bag on the security belt the guard asked how much of Mozambique currency I was carrying. Sevi had warned me that the guards would try to persuade me to give them the left over cash. I told him off sternly, and when the bag went through, another guard tried his hand. I told him that checking currency was not his duty. He stood down and I walked past the gaping mouth.

With about 30 minutes to go for boarding I walked around and bought a couple of fridge magnets. The scheduled boarding time came and went and there was no visible activity at the gate, except for patient travellers waiting to board turning their heads here and there trying to find out what was going on. The flight time was also breached and no one from the airline, Airlink, was visible. I accosted a security person and asked what the delay was about. She said that the airport had been closed for a Presidential flight to land and that the flight to Johannesburg would be delayed by an hour. It was indeed most baffling as to why the delay was not announced to the waiting passengers, some of them with sharp connections in Johannesburg.

The long awaited Presidential flight landed a few minutes after 8 am and the Airlink flight was permitted to board at a half past. The flight was almost full. After landing in Johannesburg and completing the transfer formality I waited for the connection to Gaborone, which was at 1650 hours. The Jacksons cafe and restaurant was just beside my Gate, A06. It has good lounging chairs, work stations and charging sockets with a full view of the runways and tarmacs. I had over seven hours to kill. Soon after I took a place in the restaurant the waiter came along to ask me what he could get me. A cappuccino was the obvious choice. I have never ever before taken two hours over a coffee and I also never knew that my patience would last that long. The coffee went from super hot to super cold in that time. Close to 2 pm I ordered chicken nuggets with fries. By the time I got through those and a bottle of coke it was time to board the flight to Gaborone.

The boarding took for ever. The full flight landed in Gaborone a few minutes before time and that is when the ordeal started. Ahead of the Immigration counters is a counter for screening Covid related documents. Wow of woes, the counter was manned by just one lady who was doing the best she could. It took over an hour for me to get to the counter. I showed the triple vaccination certificate and submitted the self declaration form before I was registered and passed on to the immigration. The lady at the immigration counter was in some sort of mild banter with her colleagues when she scrutinized the passport and visa before she stamped the passport for my entry once again into the country.

The Maputo Files – 28 March 2022 – Day 3 In Maputo

Almost all of what I had wanted to see in Maputo was done in the past two days. I did do a lot more than was on my agenda. This day being the last full day in Maputo I planned to visit two initiatives of Mozambique Holdings as well as the Missionaries of Charity House in Maputo. Sevi offered to pick me up on his way to the office. Dark rain clouds had been gathering since dawn.

Mozambique Holdings is the largest provider of uniforms to the uniformed services in the country such as the police, army and para military. They operate two units in and around Maputo headed by a senior person, Manoj. The two companies are Faumil and Inomil. Daily uniforms, raincoats, camouflage, bedsheets, pillow cases, caps, boots, belts, epaulettes, jackets, et al are made in these facilities. The units employ almost 500 people and the fabric and accoutrements are imported from various parts of the world. The senior management of the factory stays in the flats of the company within the premises. The supply of uniforms has been an ongoing business of the group for more than 20 years. It is run at such a level of efficiency that governments from neighbouring countries visit the factories to try and put together a similar facility in their own country. Indian politicians, ministers and business people have visited the superbly organised factory. The entries in the visitors' book have some of the most important names in world polity, business and influencers. By the time the quick tour was over it had started raining heavily. In no time many sections of the road to the airport was inundated.

After an interaction with Sevi and Jose I was given a car and driver for the next two visits. The first was to the House of the Missionaries of Charity. Ali, on behalf of KazmunaiServices, had donated a Mahindra vehicle to the sisters for transporting the sick and the infirm. When I told Ali that I would be visiting Maputo he requested me to visit the House and see for myself how they were doing. The visit was truly a humbling experience. The House is managed by six sisters of whom a Polish nun is the Superior.

At the time of my visit only three sisters were in the House, all three from India. A sister from Bihar took me around all the facilities in the House. There are different sections for older men, women, adolescent girls and small children. Many of them are HIV positive and abandoned by their families. Many are mentally affected due to abandonment and a few were afflicted by tuberculosis. The accommodation and refectories were spic and span. The House depended purely on goodwill and donations. The school has 520 children being taught in two shifts. All of them are given a meal of porridge in the House daily. The vehicle donated by Ali is in good condition with regular attention by the Mahindra team. The driver was happy with its performance. The yeoman work of the Sisters in that extremely challenging environment is truly praiseworthy.

Mozambique Holdings had commissioned a state of the art pharmaceutical manufacturing unit in Maputo in 2018. Initially a partnership with Strides Arcolab, Mozambique Holdings bought out its partner a couple of years ago and is now operating the facility as a single owner. All the medicines, capsules, tablets and dry powders, are supplied to the Ministry of Health all over the country. The production is exclusively for the government. Great care is taken to ensure zero contamination and laid down ISO procedures. As in the clothing factory, here too all the workers are local people, except the supervisors and top management who are expats, mostly from India.

The evening was reserved for an exhaustive gastronomic experience. Sevi picked me up for a drink in the awesome home of Dolly and Jose. The massive, solidly constructed and tastefully decorated house, in a celebrity lane of Maputo, was where I had a couple of Ardberg pegs on the rocks over enlightening conversation about the country and life. Dolly had made some of the finest minced meat samosas I have ever had in my life. The specially roasted and salted cashews also went down the hatch during the absorbing conversation.

Zambi restaurant is located on the Maputo bayfront with a lovely balcony overlooking the Indian Ocean and Catembe a bit beyond. The lit up Catembe Bridge looked like stars on a far horizon from Zambi. Jose and Deepak are connoisseurs of food and drink. Their knowledge of the details of every dish ordered and every other stuff on the menu floored me. Deepak had ordered the starters, steamed Langoustine tails and Garlic Shrimp. Jose showed me how the Langoustine tails should be shelled. The meat was exceptional. When the fish is done just right one gets the proper taste of the fish. I had them without any sauce so as to savour the juicy meat. 

The garlic Shrimp, served on toast, was beyond description. It was so yummy that I gorged on them and forgot that grilled tiger prawns were next on order. When they arrived I had to take a break and wait for the previous feast to settle down. The huge tiger prawns, grilled and cut down the middle, spruced with garlic butter and lime were delectable. The meat is thicker and very filling. A couple of them and my stomach started to protest further indulgence. However, to me a dessert alone can signify end of a meal, especially dinner. I turned to the quintessential Portuguese pudding, generally regarded as the parent of the Indian caramel custard pudding. The Portuguese pudding is firmer and does not have as much of the caramel sauce as the Indian caramel custard pudding.

It was time to take leave of Jose, Dolly and Deepak who gave me the best taste of Mozambique, in every respect. Having been in Mozambique for over three decades, Jose and Dolly were treasure troves of information about the country, its people, their customs and culinary practices. Deepak, a thorough gentleman and I have come to believe that all my travels are a means to meet souls who I travel with through time and space. If one has such co-travellers one has to feel truly blessed.

The Maputo Files – 27 March 2022 – Day 2 In Maputo

To say that I slept like a log may not be far from the truth. When I opened the eyes I sought out the phone, almost in panic. I had promised Sevi to be ready by 6.45 am to be picked up for Sunday Mass. I managed to get ready before he arrived at the accommodation. The 'chor bazaar' of Maputo is on the road leading to the church, where two South Indian priests celebrated mass. With scattered seating, a gift of Covid, the church was full.

After service, Sevi took me to his commodious terrace flat with awesome views of the Indian Ocean. The property was co-developed by Mozambique Holdings in the prestigious Presidencia, where the President's residence used to be in the colonial times. The neighborhood is barricaded and guarded by President's guards. Jessie, Sevi's wife, who teaches higher sections in the nearby international school, offered mouth watering Appam and vegetable stew with coffee for breakfast.

The Mahindra dealership was established by Mozambique Holdings more than two decades ago and now they are the market dealers in the country, selling more than 100 vehicles a more. Their market share is over 25% owing to their better customer service and wider visibility. The most popular vehicle is the twin cab Scorpio pick up. Their major dealership is in the city, opposite the Mozambique National Bank, with a huge yard to back up the showroom. The plans to expand are on the anvil.

The Central Market of Maputo was established by the Municipality in 1909. The premises are neat and clean with vendors taking extra precaution not to litter the place. Vegetables, fruits, dried fish, pickled items, shrimps, cashews, grains, cane products, variety of herbs and aromatic herbs, etc are available on sale. Quite a few vendors hailed out to Sevi because he is a regular in the market. Parking in the Central Market lot is controlled by a fee.

The railways and its connected ports are governed by a single entity, CFM. Nearly 3000 km of metre gauge lines, much of it under rehabilitation, serve the three ports of Maputo (South Africa), Biera (Zimbabwe) and Nacala (Malawi). The iconic Maputo railway station is considered one of the finest in the world and there is a permanent museum inside the station with displays of old railway equipment, locomotive, coaches and the like. There is also a popular restaurant operated beside one of the platforms. The station has over 12 platforms, but business did not seem to warrant that many.

In the square facing the Maputo railway station is the statue commemorating the participation of Mozambique in the World Wars and the fallen Portuguese soldiers. Beside the railway station is the entrance to the Maputo Port, with DP World operating the container terminal.

Catembe is a suburb of Maputo. In the past the only means of getting there was by the ferry. With the commissioning of the Maputo-Catembe Bridge across the Maputo Bay the ferry has fallen into disuse. The 3.6 km Maputo-Catembe suspension bridge was commissioned in 2018 and is tolled.

The Delgao Bay in Catembe used to be a favourite with tourists, but bears a bare look now. The old ferries and tug boats docked at Catembe tells the story of a vibrant cross bay traffic in the past. Before leaving Catembe Sevi took me to meet two Indian priests who are stationed there. From Catembe is the 120 km road to Ponta do Ouro, Portuguese for "tip of gold", referring to the cape at the end of the beach. The town is known for its beach, dolphins, offshore diving and deep-sea fishing.

The Jardim Dos Namorados, Lovers Garden, is a spacious lung area overlooking the Maputo Bay. Sevi told me that the place has undergone a sea change with renovations, new facilities and renewed managements. There are cafes, restaurants and a children's play area, beautifully landscaped and inviting for families. The Bay looks gorgeous from the garden.

Lunch with Sevi and Jessie was at the Khana Khazana. The food was truly authentic and a few India families were seen lounging amidst animated banter and a few pints of beer. I tried out the Laurentina dark and the Txilar beers, both local, the former tasting something like the Guinness. The kadak roti and dal fry were very tasty.

Sevi took me in a drive of the upmarket Marginal Avenue. The beach-fronted road has popular restaurants like the Costa do Sol, an air-conditioned fish market from where one can buy fish and get it prepared to one's liking in one of the nearby restaurants, priced residential apartments, artistically painted containers vending popular food and handicrafts and a long calm shoreline. Being a weekend the restaurants and the beach were well patronised.

It had been a long day, but spent with new found friends it passed almost unnoticed. 

The Maputo Files – 26 March 2022 – Day 1 In Maputo

I had done some research on places to visit in Maputo when I was planning the trip in India. I had gone over the same before emplaning from Gaborone. Accordingly, I made out an itinerary for the day whereby I would cover 8 attractions by foot over a distance of 7.5 km. I thought I would fall back on the option of taking a 'combi' in case of any dire need. When I saw how jam packed and crowded the combos were I banished that option from even the recesses of my mind.

After a light breakfast of biscuits and coffee I left for FEIMA that was just 750 meters from my accommodation. From personal accounts in social media I had read that FEIMA would be awfully crowded on the weekends. Fortunately, when I reached the lovely sprawling lung area there was hardly a visitor in sight. The garden is the site, inaugurated in 2010, where local artists, gardeners and chefs delight customers and visitors. A large variety of plants greet visitors close to Entrance 2. The green, thick foliage and healthy shoots told the story of fertile soil and the climate that aided such growth. Right in the centre of the FEIMA are the hundreds of shops that sell local handicrafts. Some of the artisans could be seen working on fresh products and some were dusting the displays for customers who they hoped would be generous with their wallets. The works in ebony, rosewood and sandalwood took my breath away. Christian and tribal themes were, naturally, predominant.

The next section that floored me was that of the painters. The oils and batiks were too good to just pass by. They made you stand and stare. The group of ten artists who displayed their works were on hand to explain the quality of their works. Even exposed to the elements they stayed their course. I asked one of them if they were not worried about their works being stolen from the open stalls. He told me that the guards that lived in the premise ensured the safety of their works. There are two restaurants there that sell exclusive Mozambican cuisine. I confess that I was tempted by the smells to try what was on offer. Because I had much to see and lots to walk I refrained from exercising my palate.

Another 750 meters away was the St. Antony's Church. From a distance the church looks like an enormous lemon squeezer and is impressive. St. Antony, originally from Lisbon in Portugal, died in Padua, Italy and hence, is known as St. Antony of Padua and is the patron saint for lost things. The unusual modern architecture of the Roman Catholic Church and the beauty of its stained-glass windows catch the eye in an instant. Built in the early 1960s, the church underwent its second renovation in 2019. It is in need of further renovation and I read appeals for financial help in many parts of the church. I was amazed to see a very active congregation that was engaged in catechism and prayer.

My next destination was Cine Africa that was almost two km away from the Church. Walking along I admired the old colonial architecture, military club, establishments, churches and a slice of local life. The combis, which seemed the most common way of getting around, were jam-packed and people did not care too much about wearing masks and social distancing was a goner. The infrastructure was certainly under challenge with hardly any maintenance and repairs. The Cine Africa in Avenida 24 de Julho is no longer a movie house but a performance stage. It is one of many Art Deco buildings in Maputo. It used to be the Teatro Manuel Rodrigues when it opened in 1948 where movies, food and fun were the themes. At the time of my visit I found the place run down and beyond repair.

Less than half a km away is the Cathedral of Our Lady Of Immaculate Conception. The magnificent church was visited by Pope John Paul II in 1988 and Pope Francis in 2019. The throne, altar and the vestments used by Pope John Paul II are displayed in an apse in the cathedral. The photograph of Pope Francis kneeling and praying in front of the statue of Our Lady in the church is also displayed prominently. The church was built between 1936 & 1944 and is proximate to the Independence Circle, Municipal City Hall and the Rovuma Hotel.

The Municipal City Hall is the seat of the local government of the capital of the country. The neoclassical building is located on a hill overlooking the Independence Square and was erected in 1947. The Independence Square is dominated by the imposing statue of the first President of independent Mozambique, Samora Machel. In the past it was known as Albuquerque Square with the bronze statue of Albuquerque on horseback occupying the central position. That statue was removed to Maputo Fort and Samora Machel took his place. 

Gustave Eiffel, the architect of the Eiffel Tower, designed the Iron House for the governor of Mozambique, which is located just off the square. Prefabricated in Belgium in the last decade of the 19th century, the Iron House was soon found unsuitable for occupation in tropical climates. Today it is merely a tourist attraction.

The Tunduru Botanical Garden, designed by Thomas Honney in 1885, is just the road from the Iron House. The Garden is a favourite place to celebrate post wedding functions and photo shoots. I thoroughly enjoyed the many post wedding groups dancing to some traditional songs and rhythmic dancing. The Tunduru Park houses several greenhouses with exotic plants, a statue of the "Temple of the Four Goddesses" and landscaped gardens.

From the Garden I walked the straight path to the Maputo Fort, which was getting decked up to host a Jameson Brand promotion event later in the afternoon. The old fort was built by the Portuguese in the mid-19th century near the site of an earlier fort. Inside is a garden and remnants from the era of early Portuguese forays to the area. The huge statue of Albuquerque on horseback, removed from the Independence Square, is available inside the Fort.

The fishing harbour is just about 200 metres from the Fort. At the security gate I was given permission to go inside without taking pictures. The guard, when pestered, told me that I would have to pay him 200 meticals for taking three pictures. I bargained that down and got my stuff done. I was extremely hungry by this time having walked over seven km by then. I spotted the Maputo shopping centre and pared in to see if I could get something to eat there. There were many restaurants inside and I chose the BBQ. I had their specialty hamburger and a large choco frappe. That filled me to the gills.

The Catembe Ferry terminal was next insight. With the opening of the Catembe Bridge, which hogs the horizon, ferries have become redundant to cross the ocean to the island. The coconut palm fringed walkway along the Maputo Bay with buildings of the Ministry of Finance, permanent mission of Mozambique to the UN, Standard Bank, etc and the iconic Zambi restaurant were taken in slowly. Vendors selling sugarcane juice seems to be doing good business in the heat of the afternoon. By the time I got back to the apartment my feet were in a terrible state and the calves started developing cramps, painful cramps that last nearly a half hour. Sweat and tears intermingled for a while.

Dinner was at the Italian restaurant, Maritimo, beside the Ocean. Jose Parayanken, the intrepid entrepreneur, first mover and the most prominent businessman in Mozambique was my host. His wife, Dolly and son, Deepak, were part of the wonderful evening. The story of Jose and his business ventures are too numerous for this post. I listened with awe his experiences in the country where he has been for over 35 years, setting up business after business, supporting the initiatives of the government. The St. Stephen's College and XLRI alumni, despite his commitment to the economy and culture of Mozambique, has maintained strong links with India, making sure that he spends time in his country of birth every year. We discovered relationships, friends and acquaintances over the three hour dinner and discussion. Jose ordered exotic seafood for starters, some lovely Chianti wine and I was treated to a most informative session on Mozambique and the region. How I wished I had more time with them! The main dish was rice with a brilliant salmon fillet followed by a cashew based dessert accompanied by whipped cream and ice cream. The dinner was closed with a portion of delectable port wine. By the time I was dropped back by Deepak my eyes were half closed. It had been a long day with a 13 km walk and three hours of talk!

The Maputo Files – 25 March 2022 – Gaborone to Maputo

With an on arrival visa for Indians, Mozambique easily got on to my list of countries to travel to, while visiting my daughter and her family in Botswana in March 2022. It was not very easy to get an acceptable air link to Maputo from Gaborone via Johannesburg and back; the layovers were ridiculous at over 14 hours. The one direct flight from Gaborone was priced at a ridiculous $800 or thereabouts. I kept on trying and a couple of days after I returned from the 15th edition of Record Drive in Botswana on 20 March 2022 I managed to get a return ticket for about $600. Then came the accommodation in Maputo. I had become so used to seeking accommodation through booking.com that no other possibilities seemed feasible to me. That is, till I booked the accommodation in Ghanzi through Airbnb. I took recourse to Airbnb yet again to book a four night stay near the city centre in Maputo for about $42 per night. The reviews were very good and the facilities included a washing machine in the accommodation. Airbnb payments are upfront and the actual location is intimated only after the booking is completed, including the payment.

While South Africa has lifted RTPCR test result for either traveling through or into the country Mozambique had retained that restriction. I had to possess a negative result of the test of the preceding 72 hours. Maya set up a home collection schedule with Diagnofirm at 9 am the day previous to my travel. Alfred turned up for the samples an hour late and promised that the result would be ready by 4 pm. When I had neither received a receipt for the payment nor the result by 5 pm we visited the Diagnofirm centre where we were given both. I must admit that there was a period of anxiety when the centre told us over phone that the sample had been registered in the centre only around 1 pm and that it would take about 6 hours for the result. In the end, all turned out alright and the final requirement to board the flight to Maputo was also obtained.

I had done web check-in and Kiron dropped me off at the airport by a quarter to six in the morning. At the check-in counter the lady wanted me to show her the filled in on-arrival visa form, which I did. She also took a peek at the RTPCR result, checked by baggage through to Maputo and gave me the two boarding passes with transit through Johannesburg. I had time to kill and I wandered the airport taking a few photographs. At the entrance to the airport was the statue of a young lady returning after drawing water from a well. As I was taking its photo a couple ladies dressed in airline uniform asked if I would like a picture beside the lady. I turned down the offer politely saying that I did not want to tempt the lady lest she abandon the pail of water! They were still doubled up in laughter when I moved on!!

Airlink is a Johannesburg based operator with 50 aircrafts flying to over 45 destinations. The small Embraer 185 aircraft was full and the flight landed in Johannesburg in 35 minutes during when a light breakfast snack was served. What struck me as odd, if I may call it that, was the discipline observed by everyone while deplaning. When deplaning was announced by cabin crew, row by row passengers stood up, claimed their cabin baggage and left the aircraft quietly without shoving and shouting. I haven't seen this happen anywhere else in the world. In one word, remarkable.

The layover in Johannesburg was 5 hours. The display of African handicraft, their colours and amazing array stunned me yet again. When it was the Out of Africa store last time, it was the Indaba store this time around. I wished I had the baggage allowance to cart some of these exquisite pieces home to India. The sense of humour of guys here is so spontaneous. An example at the Johannesburg international departure area. Before boarding the flight to Maputo I thought I should visit the washroom. As I entered I found one of the janitors using the urinal. He greeted me, "Welcome to my office, Sir, how do you like it?" "You know I have to test out my office once in a while", he said justifying use of the passenger washroom!

The flight to Maputo was full. I had a window seat in the last row. From the time of take off for about 25 minutes the ride was so bumpy that many passengers felt queasy and the guy next to me, a veritable Leviathan, was shaking like a leaf telling me repeatedly, it's a bad day man! Well the ride seemed to portend what awaited me at the Maputo airport. After verification of RTPCR test result and yellow fever vaccination certificate I went down to the Immigration. When I requested the officer for on arrival visa he flatly refused said that I am ineligible as I should have taken visa from India. When I asked what the on-arrival visa for Indians meant he blankly said that on-arrival visa facility is only for nationals of those countries where there was no Embassy of Mozambique.

The most ridiculous argument and he passed on my passport to a lady officer who said that I have to return to where I came from by a later flight. She kept the passport with her and went out of my sight for more than an hour. I started pleading with everyone there showing my return ticket and accommodation I had booked for the four days that I would be in the country. Blank walls and stares. In the meantime, an Airlink staff came up and said that they would put me on to a later flight for a top up fee. I refused point blank and said that I have no further money to pay to the airline as I have a valid ticket for the return. I further mentioned that Airlink should have detected any deficiency, if at all, at my first port of boarding, namely Gaborone. He told me that I would have to sleep on a steel bench for the next four days. I said I would and not pay the airline another penny. He vanished without a trace thereafter.

The airport did not have free Wifi as in some others. I was left without any means to contact a couple of contacts I had in the city. Finally, I talked to a medic to lend me his phone to make a local call, for a princely amount of $4, ostensibly to top up talk time. I contacted Sevi George, a friend of Mr. Ali, the Chairman of the Company I work for in India. He rushed to the airport with his friend Jimmy, both working in Mozambique Holdings. They moved heaven and earth, pushed the right buttons and spoke to the Chief of Immigration who mattered. Finally, after a few hours of anxiety and mayhem, the visa was stamped and I left the airport with Sevi and Jimmy after taking a local sim connection and exchanging a few dollars for local currency, Meticals.

Guardian Angels surface when all hope is lost and the challenge is overwhelming. The alacrity with which Sevi and Jimmy arrived at the airport and the cool head with which they worked out a solution surely was the work of the Almighty. As it also turned out Sevi belongs to Manimala, my paternal native and Jimmy belongs to Kanjirapally, my maternal native. The relation with Sevi is quite deep, as was understood during the short time that we were together. He later dropped me at the Airbnb accommodation and ensured that I was comfortably settled before he left for home.

A day that started quietly sprung a nasty surprise before all got settled properly. It rained cats and dogs once I got to the apartment. I hastened to the nearest restaurant in the rain as I was famished. I fetched a chicken dinner from a nearby pub, Mundos, after having a large glass of their specialty draught beer, 2M.