16 March 2018 - Day 13 - Border Village to Frazer Range Station

Sleep was disturbed by the conflict arising out of a biological requirement. Beer and water accumulated in a lower extremity and yelled to be expelled. However, the photos of the snakes on the door of the toilet made that demand on me seem somewhat unnecessary at that time. But, that urge would neither permit me to sleep or keep awake without fear. I wished I had kept an empty water bottle with me to face this eventuality. Finally, I decided to brave it. I had to do it. I quietly opened the door of my cabin and was struck by the bright lights all around. I could see the entire distance from the cabin to the toilet complex. Nothing that could even be mistaken for a snake lay in the path. I made a quick dash to the loo and back. That was so brave of me, I said to myself!

With such relief and patting on my own back, sleep decided to kick me off its cozy bosom. Instead of lying in the bed and staring at the ceiling I started going through the rest of the Australian itinerary. Once I get through the Nullarbor the next challenge would be north of Perth and Northern Territory, where the daily average km per day would be substantially higher. Between Perth and Cairns I would just have one extra day in Darwin; 7100 km in 9 driving days. After a while of going back and forth I slept a few more hours and felt quite rested.

I was not about to go and put coins for a shower; I was worried that the water would dry up before I am through with the whole process.  I decided, instead, to use wet tissues to get ready for the 600 plus km of today’s drive. I had to also open up the dressing of the blisters to check if they were healing well. I was happy to see the progress; the antibiotic was doing its job. However, getting fresh dressing done was quite a task. Once all that was through it was time to put the bags into the car. The sky was getting lighter. I drove to the restaurant and helped myself to a cup of coffee. I took leave of Philipe, the young man who had checked me in, after handing over the key to him.

Strict quarantine checks are exercised between the borders of Southern and Western Australia. I had not seen such checks between New South Wales and Victoria or between Victoria and Southern Australia. Clear indications are given about halting the vehicles for inspection. Warnings are also displayed about the consequences of quarantine violations. A young lady, Amy, was on duty. Politely she asked if I was carrying any of the prohibited items and I confidently said I wasn’t. Even more politely she asked if she could inspect the car. I asked her to go ahead and requested permission to take pictures of the complex. When I returned Amy had unearthed the bottle of honey Ranjana had given me in Melbourne to prepare the native turmeric and honey solution for the bad throat. I apologized to Amy and she was even more apologetic, saying that even though my throat needed it she would be unable to permit it through. She even told me that I could get a bottle in the next town of Eucla!

Just out of the quarantine shed and on to the main road I got the most amazing views of the Nullarbor Plains. The Border Village is at an elevation as compared to the plains. The steep decent went on to become some of the straightest roads I have ever driven in my life. I had only to make sure that the steering was held properly; cruise control took care of the rest. Speed limit, right until the turn off for the Frazer Range Station, was 110 kph, with a few locations having 90 kph. Since there were no residential settlements along the way, or even road works, the average was a steady 100 kph. Surfacing of the road was exceptional. I wished to roll this and take it back with me for use in India! The landscape on either side was the same except that at some places the Ocean was closer to the road than at other time; otherwise, it was just the shrubs and not so tall trees.

On the way I passed roadhouses at Mundrabila, Madura, Cocklebiddy, Caiguna and Balladonia. From Caiguna starts the 90 Mile Road, which is the longest stretch of straight road in Australia. The topography certainly did permit the making of such a road, sure, but the way it has been maintained is surely the application of the right technology in a proper manner. I stopped at Balladonia for fueling – costlier than most other places at 189.1 cents a liter of petrol - and I came across notices of water shortage at the roadhouse.

The Frazer Range Station was just another 90 km down the road in the direction of Norseman. There was still plenty of daylight available and I wondered if I should have gone through to Norseman, just over a 100 km away. Once I reached the Station all such thoughts vanished. An erstwhile sheep centre, established in the 1870s by the Dempster brothers, the vast camping grounds has also ‘dongas’ which are 40 feet containers converted into four cubicles with a bed, fridge, cupboard, writing desk and AC. The room was not big but was adequate for a night’s stay. All these places are pricey for private accommodation. Powered and unpowered caravan points are available for AUD 30 and 22 respectively. I paid AUD 95 for my accommodation. What I found most disappointing, however, is the lack of connectivity. The Station did not provide Wi-Fi and Telstra connection could be had in just a couple of locations in the vast Station. My work remained undone, yet again, for the second day in succession.

There was limited menu for dinner and one had to order early. I decided on the chicken dish among the options. When I had checked in there were just a couple of campers at the Station. By evening the place got busy, with a tent pitched, many elaborate campers spreading out the awnings and some other bicycling off for a bit of fun. Two big trees near the main area of the Station played host to a large number of parrots – their colors so stunning that I stood beside the trees and stared. And they kept up a lively chatter till they settled in for the night. A couple of Emus walked by regally observing, yet not overly worried. Then I saw a pair of kangaroos, more appropriately Wallabies, which were feeding nearby. As I got too close for their comfort they sprinted away.

Dinner, I had been told would be at 6.30 pm. Fearing that the kitchen may be shut if I am not there in time I reached a quarter of an hour before that. I barely saw any activity at the time. The lady who had checked me in was in the kitchen. Within a short while the entire dining area almost filled up, mostly with elders. Friendships were formed quickly and the sound levels started going up with each beer and glass of wine downed. I sat quietly at one of the tables watching the formation of new networks. Soon, an elderly couple took seats at my table. The lady got herself a glass of white wine and her husband a can of Coke. She started a conversation with me and was happy to know that I am from Kerala in India, which is on her bucket list for travel. She and her husband lived in a suburb of Perth and were now on a campervan ride to Tasmania for 9 weeks! With the children settled and being pensioners they indulged in their passion for travel. I learnt a lot this evening on how to lead a life one desires to. The husband had a cirrhotic liver, but that did not deter them from what they wanted to do. She is a multi-faceted personality with interests in face reading, reflexology, body-mind analysis, psychosomatic healing therapy, clairvoyance and book writing. Her first publication will hit the stands soon and, going by the sneak peek she permitted me, it is going to be a best seller, without a doubt. She loved the Bollywood movie ‘Lunch Box’ and her husband was intrigued by most Indians sporting moustaches! When I took leave of her we exchanged visiting cards. That’s when I came to know her name, Marylin Forbes.