Wednesday, March 21, 2018

13 March 2018 - Day 10 - Adelaide to Ceduna


It was a 7 am start and the boys were up early – they had to go to school too. It was difficult to take leave of them and Emi and Honey. They had been wonderful hosts and I had felt completely at home.

Planning research had thrown up challenges of travelling from Adelaide to Perth and from Darwin to Cairns. Prime among the challenges is the availability of fuel. Suggestions had come that I should get extra tanks fitted in the car, or, at the very least, carry gasoline containers to cater to any eventuality. Some even said that I had, maybe, chosen the wrong vehicle – a diesel one would have been more appropriate. Last night I was doing last minute research on the Adelaide-Ceduna leg and came up with interesting information about fuel stations all along the way. On this leg, I was satisfied, I would not face any problem. Moreover, much to my astonishment, I was getting nearly 800 km on a full tank of petrol, which should see me through even the long sections, if I fuel up whenever I find a fueling station.

Armed with this piece of vital information I decided to make the first stop at Kimba. It had been 5 hours and 460 km after starting off from Adelaide, travelling via Port Wakefield, Port Pirie and Port Augusta. The drive was smooth and without any disruptions. I had been warned many times over about road trains. I did come across a few, nearly 120 feet, road monsters. The surprising thing is that they were swift, gleaming machines that moved at over 100 kph. I made sure that I use the overtaking lanes alone to get ahead of them. The landscape was bare and dry without anything remarkable. But, it wasn’t bone dry. The shrubs and the few trees were green.

I fueled at the roadhouse in Kimba. When I went in to pay for the fuel the smell of Indian curries hung heavy in the air and many were eating in the restaurant attached to the roadhouse. Then I learnt that the roadhouse is run by a Rajasthani family and hence, the curries. I feasted on a large portion of rice and mutton rogan josh before hitting the rest of the route to Ceduna. At the roadhouse I gathered further information about the availability of fuel till Perth. In fact, a board was hung up there for the information of long distance travelers where they could find fuel next in the direction of their travel. The 300 odd km to Ceduna was another unremarkable drive.

I reached the Ceduna Motor Inn, bang on the highway, a little after 3.30 pm in bright sunshine. Brad, co-owner of the Motel, suggested a drive to Thevanard and dinner at the Oyster Barn. After resting a while in the budget accommodation that cost AUD 100 per night, if one can call it budget, I made my way to Thevanard. I was merely told that it is a working port. But what I saw there was another world. Yes, it is a working jetty with gypsum, grain, salt, mineral sand and fish (in bound) as its main cargo. Massive silos are used for storage. Two large islands off Thevanard were charted, presumably, in the early 1600s by a Dutch explorer. They, St Francis and St Peter, are also said to have inspired the 18th century classic, Gulliver’s Travels. There is, many say, substance to believe that Jonathan Swift had placed his story in the context of the two islands and the account of one of the sailors who was a team member of the charting of the two islands. The Pinky Point walkway at the edge of the Thevanard is a fascinating one. Some distance away from the port is a stone jetty with a ramp to launch and haul in boats.

Back in the motel room I opened a can of Canadian Club and started updating the expense account and the actual itinerary. When I was close to finishing the can I gravitated to the restaurant for a meal. I chose a fillet meal with salad and fries. When the meal arrived I sat in quiet contemplation for some time strategizing on how to finish the meal without wasting any bit of it. Food portion in Australia is too large for even a disproportionate Indian like me. I must have taken at least two ‘intervals’ before I got through the meal! I felt happy for the task done!

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