I had to force myself to sleep. The
sight of the waters in Normanton kept playing back and forth in my mind. Would
these waters spike my drive? I had done so much and there was just another 4000
km to go. However, even while beating the hasty retreat from Normanton to
Cloncurry, instead of being upset, I kept telling myself that an adventure
meant all this, and maybe more. The mistake I made was not to ascertain the
route condition from Normanton to Cairns. Even Google Maps would have showed up
the road closure. I took it for granted that such an eventuality would not be
there. It was a lesson learnt at the cost of motoring an extra 800 km and
almost getting marooned.
Therefore, after checking and cross
checking the road conditions to Townsville I booked accommodation there. The
room in Cloncurry had been comfortable, but, in all these small towns the
accommodation is over-priced – a matter of supply and demand, I presume. As the
reception of the hotel wasn’t yet open I decided to leave the key in the room.
As I got out of the room I was greeted by that omnipresent Australian, the fly!
They are everywhere; it is said that flies are present wherever there is rotten
stuff – it was either the country or me! I recalled the chat I had with the
young Manager of the hotel. I shared with him my observation that an
overwhelming number of Australians are left handed. Very quick was his response - it is because the
right hand is busy with thwacking flies!!
The fuel station in Cloncurry was
overflowing with cars and people, out for the long weekend. Boats of all shapes and
sizes, cycles, pets and giggling children signaled the holiday mood. And there
was a fair bit of traffic heading in the direction of Townsville, and that
further settled my mind about the road condition. There are markers on the road side at
intermittent intervals indicating if the road ahead is clear
or otherwise. I drove 400 km through in one stretch to Hughendon. It was a
pleasant drive with greenery all around and small hills. The early settlers in
Queensland came here for farming. I understand that people from Punjab own vast
tracts of land in Queensland, which they use for farming.
Yesterday I had reserved my hotel in
Townsville through booking.com, where I had specifically requested for free
parking. Very soon I had a call from the hotel mentioning that the hotel
parking slots are charged at AUD 10 per night, but free parking slots are
available in places nearby to the hotel after 5 pm. The lady chuckled when I
asked her if overnight street parking is safe. I didn’t understand what that
chuckle meant, but was reassured when she said, “See you tomorrow”.
In the short time that I would be in
the city I had to be choosy about what to do. One of the must do things that
kept popping up in the searches for Townsville is a visit to the Reef HQ. The timing of the
center suited me fine as it would be open up to 5 pm, which meant that I would
be eligible for free street parking after that. I reached the Reef HQ at a half
past 3 and took the AUD 28 ticket. The lady at the counter asked me if I am
eligible for any concession. I told her that I am not as old as I look, to
which her repartee was, “I wanted to know if you have a Student Concession”!
The Reef HQ is a fantastic effort. I
understood that it was the vision and effort of one man, Dr Greame Kelleher the
former Chairman of the Great Barrier Reef Marine Park Authority, whose primary
objective was to bring the wonderful marine life on to land, make it more
visible to a larger number and sensitise people about the ecosystem. The center
was opened in 1987 and is the largest living coral reef aquarium anywhere in
the world. The humongous aquarium holds 2.5 lakh liters of water and has over
130 coral species and 120 fish species. A pneumatic wave machine creates water
motion inside the aquarium and much of it is open to the outside weather, thereby
receiving sunlight, moonlight, precipitation just like the normal coral reefs
do. I was absolutely bowled over. The beautiful colors of the fish, living
corals and anemones kept me captivated. Large groupers, sharks, tiny fish – all
lived together in harmony; something that humans are unable to manage. We have
a lot to learn from these environments. Poignant messages were everywhere about
global warming and what it did to the reefs. The Madison Plaza Hotel is almost in the heart of the city; just a km away from the Reef HQ. A young girl was at the reception. Once the formalities were completed I asked her where free parking could be found. She pointed to a few streets nearby as well as the police station opposite the hotel. When this was going on a lady, who apparently worked in the hotel, came over and told me that she has parked her car on the same street as the hotel and said that she was vacating that right then. I reversed the car and occupied that slot. That was so very convenient; the slot was opposite the police station and hopefully the officers will keep watch!
The room was very comfortable and I
settled in quickly. Once all that was taken care of and the sun had gone down a
bit I ventured out for a short walk. The streets were deserted. Edwin and Shyju
had told me in Darwin that even restaurants and bars would be closed in
Australia on Good Friday. They hastened to add that it had nothing to do with
religion; it was just that they chilled out for the busy weekend ahead. That
was absolutely true. I hardly saw ten people in the one hour walk and most of
them were in an Indian restaurant, “The Jewel of India”, which was one of the
few restaurants open in the city. I walked down the main street, Flinders St –
name is everywhere – where a few buildings that dated back to the second half
of the 19th century were in excellent state of preservation. The
Marina was gorgeous; the city’s skyline and the mountain in the background
gives the place a postcard appearance. The Strand is another feature of the
city, which affords good views of the Port and the Magnetic Island.
Back in the room I was only on to one
thing - plan for the next day. Mercifully, I found that the road closure on
Bruce Highway had been lifted. This meant that I had only 350 km to Cairns; the
diversion would have meant over 300 km. I also got a got deal in Caravella
Backpackers located in the Esplanade of the city. After all the work was done I
‘feasted’ on baked beans and croissant and washed it down with a can of
Bundaberg Rum and Cola. Just a few days more for the expedition to end in
Sydney on 5th of April.

























































