A TURKISH DELIGHT - DAY 14 – 23 NOVEMBER 2021 – In Antalya

Kaleici means Old City. Was I not only staying in Kaleici I was also in the Kaleici Hotel, which is considered one of the oldest buildings in the Old Town. I was told by the owner that renovation had been done recently to keep the building going. Many of the buildings in the Old Town show their age and they are even maintained in that state to market their historicity. Naturally, the Old Town of Antalya contains many of the city's historic sites. Old Roman fortifications can be seen when one walks around, which is the best way to appreciate this lovely part of Antalya. Renovations to the marina and waterfront recently have added several hotels, restaurants and shops, making this a popular tourist destination. Business is dull now as winter is setting in and rains are expected soon.

The narrow streets of Old Town can bring on surprises. The Sultan Allaadin mosque, built over 700 years ago, has a plaque that says it was a church prior to the Ottomans. It was converted by adding a Mihrab and a minaret. It was destroyed in a fire in 1900s and was restored to allow visitors just a few years back. During my visit I found that the upkeep of the mosque area left a lit to be desired. The Varuna Gezgin cafe and restaurant was set up by a group of travel enthusiasts to cater to people with similar interests. The narrow streets were unpopulated even at 9.30 in the morning when suddenly a group of Japanese tourists appeared out of nowhere. The streets looked fine for the stick shaped Japanese but could barely accommodate the garbage trucks that were doing the rounds.

The Old Town has a Mediterranean Research Centre and a Museum that is useful to researchers. Antalyan carpets are much sought after. The works are superb in design and finish. The Yivli Minare Mosque with its fluted minaret is a landmark and symbol of the city. The historical mosque was built by the Seljuk Sulatan Alaaddin Kekubad I. It has a complex of structures with a madrassa, lodges, vaults and the like, a social complex. The fluted minaret is decorated with dark blue tiles and stands out from anywhere in the Old Town. Since 2016 it on the Heritage Sites list in Turkey. There are many traditional and ancient Turkish hamams in the Old Town, some even as old as 700 years. The city is dotted with sculptures, artwork and statues. The Statue of Attalus II commands a view in the main market. He is said to have found the city and hence, the city was named after him as Attalia, the later day Antalya.

The Ataturk or the Karaaglioglu Park is a huge park, spread over 1400 sq. mtrs, with spectacular views of the Mediterranean and the Gulf of Antalya, far away mountains, craggy rocks, the Marina and all that you can sweep in the walk high above the waterfront. There are boards explaining the various trees and flora in the park and that is where we learnt that the symbol of Antalya, the orange, that are found all over the place in the city is actually Bitter Orange that is too bitter to taste and its rind is used to make marmalade. The mayor's office, Municipal city theatre, sculptures, restaurants and cafes as well as the awesome views are the major attractions of the park.

The Hidirilik Tower, in tawny stone, is a landmark of the Old Town and is at the confluence where the Old Town meets the Karaaglioglu Park. The Castle is believed to have been the handiwork of the 2nd century BC Romans. It has since been used as part of the fortifications and as a lighthouse. The tower and surrounding areas are undergoing restoration works.

When I was leaving Chennai I was told that I should experience a Hamam in Turkey. I had found the ones in Istanbul quite expensive and in the rest I did not have the time to go looking around for one. However, in the Old Town I didn't have to go looking around, there were many on the walking route. The 700 year old Antique Spa Hamam caught my eye the previous evening and I had gone in to check their packages. With the devalued lira the services looked very attractive. I reached the Spa around noon and took a booking for the medicinal pack. The peeling, foam bath and medicinal massage lasted over 2 hours and was extremely invigorating. There are lockers to keep the valuables and clothes. After changing into a towel I was given a cup of tea and a bowl of dry fruits. Then I was lead into a sauna where I sipped a cold soda for 10 minutes. Photography and videography are not permitted inside at all. After the sauna, Gül, a Tajik woman, took me to the Hamam for peeling and foam bath. The hot water from the Hamam and the loofa rub took a lot of the dead skin away. I already felt as if I was glowing! Gul asked if I would like to take a speciality rub which I politely declined. The foam bath followed, after which I waited for Serah, the masseuse, to finish with another client.

The full body massage and the face mask took more than 90 minutes during when we struck up a conversation. She told me how she had come to Turkey from Nairobi a couple of years ago and has been working ever since. Her job supports the education of her five sisters back home. She told me a lot about Turkish life, the job situation, discrimination at the work place and even sexual harassment. The cost of living in Antalya is certainly low with a decent two bedroom fully furnished accommodation available for a monthly rental of $250. Add to that power and water charges of about 200 TL, gas about 100 TL and commute another 300 TL, you have a very affordable place to live if your monthly income is over $500 a month. By the time the session was over we had become friends and I had become 'Papa' to her.

Later in the evening, it was time to keep a promise. We had told Adil the previous evening that we would be at his restaurant for a meal. The restaurant was not that busy at the time of our visit. Slowly it started filling up and the rain start getting heavier. The chicken fettuccine was superb. The heavens opened up more vigorously during the course of the meal and many clients had to be shifted. We stayed on, finished the meal and quickly scooted. Though we were not fully drenched, we were quite wet by the time we reached the hotel. The weather forecast for the next few days was not very encouraging and that was truly disappointing news.

A TURKISH DELIGHT - DAY 13 – 22 NOVEMBER 2021 – Oludeniz to Antalya

In Turkey we had been staying in hotels that served breakfast. Sunset Apart Hotel in Oludeniz was an exception. Their restaurant was closed as guests were few and the season was done with. The Sunset Apart Hotel is a family run enterprise. They have cooking and non-cooking rooms. The room was large and airy. However, the shower and hot water were glitches they had to fix. The compound has many orange and olive trees.

Normally, when breakfast is not part of the tariff, I make an early morning departure. From Oludeniz that was not possible because the sun got a bit laid back and showed up late. By about a half past seven small slivers of light started peeping every once in a while. By 8 am we decided it was time to leave. I didn't opt for the straight route to Antalya from Oludeniz, which would have taken me just 3 hours and about 200 km. Instead, we thought that the coastal route via Kas, Demre and Finike would be more scenic. The choice turned out to be brilliant in the end. The magic of the Mediterranean unfolded over 300 km and 5 hours of leisurely driving with a zillion stops.

Leaving Oludeniz we had to negotiate the mountains that have ancient trade routes and some amazing pine and cedar forests. The roads were narrow, winding and in some place had loose gravel. At that hour there wasn't much traffic, yet the drive called for patience and caution. We were astonished to see the amount of construction going on, which meant that more guests were expected in the coming months. Interesting construction were of Turkish dome homes, much like the Eskimo igloos. The 50 km of mountain terrain drive through the Karagaac Village and 20 hairpin bends was less challenging than I initially thought. Along the way are also gems of exclusive beaches, where we stopped as possible to admire them from a distance.

When we hit the road to Kas was when the Mediterranean showed its true colours. The turquoise blue waters kept diverting my attention from the road. The numerous islands, studded with thick vegetation and tree cover, stood out from the pristine waters. Be it Kas, Demre or Finike and many such heavenly towns along the way we wished we had the luxury of breathing in such wonderful air and soothing the eyes with such divine sights every day. One thing was common to all such places; the public amenities were awesome.

Kas is a small fishing, yachting and scuba diving town that has witnessed considerable pick up in tourism and an explosion of construction activity. This has altered the landscape illegally quite a bit, reportedly. There are artificially created wrecks one can dive to in Kas. The town also has a few Hellenistic and Roman vestiges to explore. But the awesomeness remains the waters that go around it. This is another town that was affected by the Greek Turkey citizen exchange program.

Demre is less than 50 kms southwest of Kas and is a Christian pilgrimage centre for the tomb of St Nicholas of Myra, the name by which the town was known during the time of the Lycians. Greek Orthodox Church was well established here but the town was abandoned by the Greeks as part of the population exchange program of 1923. The relocation of Turks to this region was not that much of a success, it is understood.

Finike is 30 km further west of Demre and is famous for its farming of oranges and other citrus fruits. One can see poly houses in which the fruits are grown for miles and miles along the route. It is reported that the economic policies also pay for pursuing farming rather than tourism. Finike also has a vibrant Marina and a small fishing harbour.

Coasting into Antalya city the traffic swelled, naturally. We were booked to stay in Kaleici Hotel in the Old Town. I could not believe my eyes when I saw the roads. They were so narrow that it took utmost caution, patience and skill to negotiate them. At a point there was a barrier that restricted access only to residents. I was permitted through when I told them the hotel name. Kaleici, the Old Town, is a labyrinthine maze of shops, restaurants and hotels. Every place is within walkable distance and don't even think of driving!

We walked from the hotel through small and narrow streets dotted with souvenir shops, cafes, restaurants and hotels. They were not that busy though there were some tourists lounging about. Our destination was the Old Harbour. We descended the steep stone steps to the bottom of the marina to experience the spot where fishermen earn their living and to watch the fishing boats come and go at Old City Marina.

Many yachts were moored at the dock, including a few that resembled pirate ships. These get a lot of attention from tourists. The Marina has many outdoor cafeterias that serve seafood and traditional meals. The marina area also had shops selling souvenirs, Turkish crafts, and spices. For us, however, the evening was reserved for a sunset tour by boat. Even though there was not much of a sunset to ooh aah about, the old harbour, the craggy coastline of the Old Town and modern hotels that have used the fantastic landscape can be appreciated as well as the perennial Lower Duden Waterfall.

Returning from the boat tour we took the glass fronted elevator from the harbour to the main street of Old Town. Within a short distance was the Yivli Mosque, the Clock Tower, Monument of National Rise and the Hadrian Gate. The streets were busy and so were the restaurants.

Our search for a place to eat landed us at the Kabuk. The friendly man explained how he would be able to fix us a delectable vegetarian pizza and a plate of Kokorec (c is pronounced ch in Turkish). The latter is a Turkish speciality, made of offal and other 'disposables' of lamb and goat. I had to try that as the Kabuk is reputed to serve the best Kokorec in the whole of Antalya. Of course, a tall boy Carlsberg was the accompaniment. The vegetable pizza Hetal had was fantastic with its super thin crust and plenty of fresh vegetables and cheese. The Kokorec was served in a dish, which I had opted for instead of wrap or tortillas. Four pieces on bread with pickled pepper and tomato with a spicy tomato paste was placed before me. I knew the ingredients but did not balk at having it. It tasted quite fine and did not in any way suggest what it was made of.

The day had gone well with all choices we had made coming up trumps. Once the meal was done with, we thanked the owner for the lovely meal and moved on. As we were walking to the hotel Hetal and I were speaking in Hindi and suddenly we found someone asking us where we were from in Hindi. And that was Adil from Pakistan, who was working in the restaurant next door. We chatted for some time about how he came to be there and his struggles. We took leave after promising to meet in his restaurant the next day for a meal.

A TURKISH DELIGHT - DAY 12 – 21 NOVEMBER 2021 – Pamukkale to Oludeniz

We thought we had seen it all when it came to Turkish breakfast. Well, there is no end to surprises. The breakfast that we walked into at the Venus Suite Hotel restaurant was the most awesome spread that anyone can ever imagine. I know that I have said this many times. But, surprises never seem to cease. The array of jams, breads, cookies, olives, meats, cheese, fruits, leafy vegetables, eggs, local delicacies and Turkish delights stunned us into total submission. How could we have a quick breakfast when such a feast was before us? Hetal and I decided to take our time in the restaurant and savour as much as we could. Hetal took on the leafy part and I the meaty part. A little of this and a bit of that and we tried all we could. We were not able to get through even a quarter on offer. We wished we were younger with better appetite and metabolism.

Driving becomes a bit tough to handle after partaking of such a feast and it easy for one to feel a tad bit drowsy. Cut-outs are placed at vantage locations and they look like traffic police patrol cars waiting to pull you over! Hetal and I took turns over the wheel from Pamukkale to Oludeniz via Fethiye, which is slightly over 200 km. The route largely plied through forests and had long stretches of winding, narrow roads, not conducive to high speed. Many stretches were under repair and expansion. The single roads on the winding paths are quite challenging. We did see an unfortunate accident on the way involving three passenger cars. Even though the cars had extensive damage people did not seem to be hurt though. The highways are used by some as a race track!

Fethiye is a port city on Turkey's southwestern Turquoise Coast. It is known for its natural harbour, blue waters and numerous rock tombs. The Rock Tomb of Fethiye, or the Tomb of Amyntas, is an ancient Greek rock hewn tomb in Fethiye built somewhere in the 4th century BC. The mountain tombs are spacious and is believed to have been the handiwork of the Lycians who had lived in these parts in the 4th century BC. Telmessos was the name of the place in antiquity where modern day Fethiye now stands. Telmessos became Megri under the Ottomans when a large population of Greeks had inhabited the area. It changed in the 1930s when the place was renamed Fethiye and a population exchange program was put in place between Greece and Turkey ot rehabilitate the Greeks living in various parts of Turkey.

The two things to do in Oludeniz is to go to the summit of the 1976 meter Babadag Mountain and enjoy the beach, both of which were quite close to the Sunset Apart Hotel. Oludeniz was struggling those days to find visitors and its streets, cafes, restaurants and shops were near empty. The weather had turned and was no longer the right time to enjoy the popular beaches of Oludeniz.

The Babadag Mountain is just about 15 km from the center. The road is winding and narrow with 12 hairpin bends. The last 10 km is paved with paver blocks. Since the season was almost over and traffic was low we had a peaceful ride up the mountain. Those who drive up are usually warned about irresponsible drivers and many accidents that happen on that stretch to Babadag. One cannot ride up to the summit. There is a fantastic viewpoint about 1700 meters below the summit up to which visitors from the city centre can come up by cable car too. This day the views were blocked by rolling mist. Despite this the summit climb could not be abandoned. It is an excruciating 25 minute walk up a narrow paved road to the summit from where paragliders take off for panoramic views of the magnificent town and the beach.

As Hetal and I were trudging up the steep slope a car came by with two youngsters in it, who looked like security personnel. They stopped by and told us that it would be very difficult to get to the summit because of the steep gradient. Half-jokingly, I asked if they could get us to the summit by car. The driver told me to wait where we were and said he would be back soon after dropping his colleague at the base. We were pleasantly surprised by the positive response from someone who could have easily refused. In a while he was back and took us in the car, up the winding road to the summit. I had noticed that the car had Cappadocia University written on it. The young man, Omer, told me that the University had been given the responsibility of checking safety features of paragliders and their equipment. Three of them had been deputed by the University, where he was studying Civil Aviation. He told us how passionate he was about flying and would do anything to become successful in that field. We thanked and wished him luck when we reached the summit.

Soon a few transport vehicles arrived with paragliders and their equipment. They scouted around to check if the mist would clear soon for them to glide for panoramic views of the town and the waters. The mist cleared up slowly but the paragliders were stymied by the wind and not so great views. We spent some time at the summit enjoying what views we could in the rolling mists and started our trek back. Soon a transport vehicle came by and we hitched a ride to the base. The driver told us how the weather was foul and was interfering with the day’s schedule. He asked if we would like to take a tandem ride for $150 which would include insurance, video footage and photos of the glide. We politely refused and thanked him for the ride down to the base.

Oludeniz translates to Dead Sea in Turkish because of the calm seas and the lagoon waters being saltier than bay's sea water due to its sheltered location. Oludeniz is at a conjunction point between the Aegean and Mediterranean Seas. Oludeniz has a large public beach with a nice promenade with cafes and restaurants. It also has private beaches and a lagoon. Most of the resorts in the area are closed for the season and hence, most private beaches were off limits too. The public beach is where the paragliders, who take off from the summit of the Babadag Mountain, land. So many of them landed on the beach indicating that the weather had cleared up over the mountain. Most visitors come to Oludeniz to sunbathe and now there are not many of them because the season is over.

While sipping a bottle of Tuborg beer my mind went back to the wonderful beaches we have in India. Not many, except a few in Goa and Kerala, are pitched to realise their full tourism potential. For that matter, India could be a global tourism hub if only we could develop the right infrastructure, better safety standards and a welcoming attitude. We have it all, yet we don't use it. It is really painful to see such potential go to waste. In these parts of the world history, culture, cuisine and natural beauty are packaged and sold. We keep ours under wraps.

A Doner wrap with a bottle of Tuborg beer for me and a veg wrap for Hetal was the dinner fare from Cloud 9 restaurant on the beach front. We spotted a waffle shop next door and gravitated to that after dinner. The genial guy who manned the store took our orders and started a conversation. He told us that rain is expected for the next few days and that he may have to close the store. I asked him what he would do to the fruits that were stocked in front of his store. He nonchalantly mentioned that he would cover it up and leave it till he opens his shop again. When I asked him if they would not be taken away by someone he said that that would not happen at all. That’s belief in the trust in the system. The waffle was getting forever to be done and finally we abandoned the waffle and settled for a few scoops of organic ice cream before returning to the hotel room.

A TURKISH DELIGHT - DAY 11 – 20 NOVEMBER 2021 – Kusudasi to Pamukkale

Kusudasi is a town built on tourism. The entire town seamlessly support that industry, be it hotels, cafes, restaurants, monuments, beaches, food, markets, et al. When I go to such places that are unidimensional in their economic support system I always wonder about the havoc the global pandemic would have visited on the people who depend on that economic ecosystem. However, one thing must be said, people have moved on and look forward to better times. There is no sign that infrastructure maintenance was compromised or even that the industry was still reeling under the Covid-19 impact. That said, I feel hotels are employing lesser cleaning staff now as compared to earlier days. A couple of hotels had made us wait to get the rooms done up.

Ramada Hotels & Suites was not only comfortable but also enjoyable for the wonderful views of the Aegean Sea. I woke up early to watch the moon giving way to the sun in that inviolable march from night to day. The moon kept weaving between dark clouds and extended its stay longer than I expected. By the time it gave way to the unyielding pressure of the sun it was well past 7 am. And then, she shone bright and promised a day of good weather. After being adequately sated by the sights we got ready for breakfast and subsequent departure for Pamukkale.

Breakfast, as was the dinner last night, was an elaborate one. Just as in the Park hotel in Izmir the fare in Ramada hotel was impressive. However, at times when you see a lot of food the appetite disappears mysteriously. Every hotel implements its own Covid protocols. In Izmir we had to use the face mask every time we went to pick up food, which we had to from the breakfast spread using the tongs given to each of the diners. In Kusudasi we were given a plastic glove to be worn while handling the spoons and tongs in the breakfast spread. Whatever, the hotel staff, always masked, were trying their level best to ensure that all remained safe and their business is unaffected in any manner. Besides the scrambled eggs, poached egg on a spinach bed, potato wedges and sausages in tomato paste almost filled my plate. I was intrigued by two items, Menemen and Gozleme. I tried out both. Menemen is the Turkish version of scrambled eggs with tomato added in with spices and cooked in olive oil while Gozleme is more like a stuffed paratha. It is made from unleavened dough, flattened and stuffed with various toppings and cooked over a griddle. The second helping consisted of some greens, pancakes and French toast topped with mixed berry, Rose and Strawberry jams. Who would say that I am diabetic? To wash all these down were tumblers of Peach juice!

At the checkout I told the receptionist that we had had dinner the previous evening for which we had to pay. She did not find that entered in the system. If I had not told her that I may have saved 140 TL for two buffet dinners, but it may have cost someone their job or cuts in pay. The receptionist made a few phone calls and discovered that the previous evening's accounts had not yet been entered into the system. There was a mini panic because many had already checked out in the early hours. I paid up and did not wait for the system to raise an invoice. We had to get to Pamukkale.

The 190 km was done in about 3 hours of unhurried driving from Kusudasi. About 30 km short of Pamukkale we had to take rural roads and get through small villages. That was another experience. I feared if the hotel I had booked would be so basic as to be uncomfortable. However, I need not have worried. While Venus Suite Hotel was located in a small street, the owner Younus, manning the counter, welcomed us and efficiently checked us in giving us a lot of information about the activities in the town besides visits to the Travertine and Hierapolis. He suggested that we could do paragliding later in the day and hot air ballooning the next morning, which he could book us for. Besides, he mentioned that the massage in Pamukkale is special and asked if we would like to try that. We politely declined all those offers as our sights were set on the Travertines and Hierapolis and we did not have enough time to even do justice to those.

The small town of Pamukkale, meaning Cotton Castle in Turkish, survives on tourism. It receives more than 2 million visitors every year, save the pandemic years of course. The town is most famous for the travertine terraces and the Hierapolis. Calcium Carbonate precipitation from the flow of geothermal water form travertines. The water is thrust up almost 300 meters from under the earth's surface due to volcanic activity. Over time, deposited travertines from the flowing thermal waters build terraces. The Pamukkale travertine terraces are a World Heritage Site along with the ruins of Hierapolis. Misuse of thermal springs and land use near the Hierapolis caused considerable damage to the local environment and called for strict action. Many hotels were demolished and a large swath of the travertine terraces were closed to restrict further damage. Presently only a narrow swathe of the terraces is open to the public. Visitors have to remove footwear to walk on the terraces and inside the pool because they are fairly fragile. One can walk up the terraces from the main entrance gate or drive up to the South Gate and enter the terraced travertines from there.

Hierapolis is believed to have been established by the Romans as a Spa City in 2nd century BC and is above the Travertine Pools. Christianity was well established here. The Hierapolis is where an apostle of Jesus, Philip, was martyred in 80 AD. From the Romans the city passed on to the Byzantine Empire and then on to the Ottoman Empire. The amphitheatre is one of the features of the Hierapolis. It can be seen from the travertines and can seat about 10,000 spectators. Inscriptions reveal that there were special seats for VIPs. The theatre is believed to have been used also for gladiatorial fights as the stage is considerably lower than the seating area. This was to prevent animals from hurting the spectators.

Situated between the white travertine pools and the theatre is a spectacular location fed by the same hot springs. Here one can bathe in the same waters in which Cleopatra once did! The modern spa facility allows one to enjoy the historical healing waters. Unlike the chalky waters of the lower pools, that in the Cleopatra Antique Pool is clear warm water. Even though it is a ruin today, the bath is no less spectacular and is well patronised for its supposedly healing powers. I saw many people using the fallen columns and other artefacts of the Roman times to soak up the health giving properties of the water. Of course, selfies and photography sessions were high on their agenda too.

There are plenty of options to stay in Pamukkale. Of course, in a small town one should not expect anything fancy. The Venus Suite Hotel was a very decent accommodation, easy on the pocket with excellent service. Its proximity to the Travertine complex and the facilitation they provide for paragliding, hot air ballooning and massage is an added plus. Moreover, they have a quick and affordable laundry service when you can get 6 kgs of laundry done for 70 TL. They serve excellent food in their restaurant. During dinner I tried out Manti, which is, to be simplistic, miniature steamed momos stuffed with meat.

A TURKISH DELIGHT - DAY 10 – 19 NOVEMBER 2021 – Izmir to Kusudasi

Even though we wanted to leave Izmir early to spend more time in Ephesus we were not willing to forgo the breakfast feast in the Park Hotel! The stay had been quite comfortable in the hotel, especially because it was centrally located and served a superb breakfast. By 8.15 am we were ready to leave the city we had been in for two days.

An hour's drive from Izmir lies Selcuk (pronounced Selchuk), one of the most visited places in Turkey. Known as Ayasuluk during the Ottomans and mentioned in Ibn Batuta's writings, Selcuk became an alternative to Ephesus as a settlement. The Ayasuluk Castle was built around the 6th century during the Byzantine period using stones from disused Greek and Roman buildings and it dominates the landscape. Inside the castle ruins is a small church converted into a cistern, other cisterns and a few houses.

Below the Castle on the slope of Ayasuluk Hill is where the ancient Basilica of St. John is located. The Basilica was built by Emperor Justinian in the 6th century as a tribute to the Evangelist who wrote one of the Gospels and the Revelations while living in Ephesus and tending to the Virgin Mother. Between the Castle and the ruins of the Basilica stands a scale model of the Basilica which gives one a clear idea of the magnificence of the once imposing building. The Tomb of St. John is also believed to be within the Basilica. Legend has us believe that St. John is not dead but is sleeping beneath the tomb. And, every time he breathes dust gathers around his tomb. This dust, known as ‘manna’ is reported to cure the sick.

At the Basilica entrance I had purchased a ticket that would give us access to the Basilica, Ephesus Museum, Terrace Houses and Archaeological Site. The ticket is a bit steep at 200 TL, but with the almost diminishing value of the Turkish Lira it did not feel that expensive. The Ephesus Museum is in Selcuk town. It has precious artefacts from digs around Ephesus. Excavations in Ephesus had begun in 1867 and before the founding of the Turkish Republic in 1923 all excavated material were taken away to London and Vienna. The Turkish government forbade the export of such precious artefacts and requested the foreign governments to return what was rightfully theirs. The Museum, commissioned in 1964, now houses all the artefacts from the excavations in Ephesus. Some of the remarkable exhibits in the Museum are the sculptures, statues, coins, reliefs and a scale model of the Temple of Artemis, designated as one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World.

Ephesus is barely three km from Selcuk. Founded by the Greeks in the 10th century BC and taken over by the Romans in 2nd century BC, the city lost its prominence after its plunder in 3rd century AD by the Goths. The ruins of Ephesus is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The remarkable ruins are the Great Theatre capable of seating 24,000 spectators, the Library of Celsus that once held over 12,000 scrolls, the Arcadiane that linked the Great Theatre to the Harbour of Ephesus, the Temple of Hadrian that honoured the Emperor, the Terrace Houses showing how the wealthy lived, the Gate of Augustus, the Curetes Street the main street through Ephesus and the Odeon Theatre that could seat 1,400 people. Ephesus is where Apostle Paul wrote the first letter to the Corinthians and the Epistle to the Ephesians was written while he was imprisoned in Rome. The Archaeological Site of Ephesus has a lot to offer because of its historical and religious significance.

The House of the Virgin Mary is about 7 km from Selcuk and is a place of pilgrimage. It has a separate entrance fee of 60 TL, which goes fully to the Municipality of Selcuk. The surroundings are maintained from donations. Or so it is claimed. There are many gift shops near the Holy place and the items are priced in Euros and are pretty steep. The House has been visited by three recent Popes giving rise to the credence that Mother Mary spent her last days here. There is no documented proof of the settlement, though. The small building is a humble dwelling that may well have been where The Virgin spent her time while in the care of St. John who was entrusted with her wellbeing by Jesus. Photography is prohibited in the shrine within the building, where one can make offerings and pick up candles to be lit in stands provided for that outside the shrine. 

Once the sites were completed we left for Kusudasi, which is 30 km further south of Ephesus on the Aegean coast. The previous evening when I was going through the Kusadasi itinerary I was alarmed to note that the hotel I had intended to stay had not been reserved. I made a call to them and fortunately they confirmed that a booking could be done even at that late hour. In less than an hour I was at the steps of the Demir Suit Hotel. Even from the outside it looked a bit dodgy. The person at the desk spoke no English and hence, communication was a real problem. He told me that the room would take a while to be ready and that we could wait in one of the rooms. There were no guests in the hotel to be seen and even the room we were asked to wait in was totally run down. After a while we decided that we would not stay there and went back to the reception. The receptionist was visibly relieved to know that we would not be staying there! He readily returned the money I had paid him for the room. Fortunately, as it was not busy season I found accommodation in the Ramada Hotel and Resorts. The sea facing rooms afforded glorious views of the Aegean Sea.

After resting a while we decided to explore the city centre of Kusudasi, which is a beach resort and a cruise ship destination. We were amazed by the large number of cars parked on the streets, which were totally out of sync with the number of people who could be seen around. The city has a nice seafront promenade, a Marina and a harbour. A cruise ship was at harbour and late evening it left for its next destination. The numerous hotels, pubs, cafes and restaurants indicate how popular the city is as a tourist destination. Seafood seemed to the cuisine to have in the coastal city with many restaurants showcasing that. We also went into the wet market in the city centre to see the fish that were on sale.

The promenade has children’s play areas, a small beach, prominent sculptures and even a display of sculptures of famous modern artists of the region. The Hand of Peace sculpture stands out facing the city silhouetted against the Aegean Sea with doves in the hand. The Ataturk memorial and the legend of Sisyphus too capture ones attention during a walk along the promenade. The Pigeon Island, just offshore of the city, has a walled Byzantine castle that once guarded the mainland. It is this island that gives Kusudasi its name, which is derived from the combination of Kus (bird) and Ada (island).

The Ramada Hotels and Resorts is an excellent place to stay in the city with its stunning views of the Aegean Sea, commodious rooms and a fantastic buffet dinner.

A TURKISH DELIGHT - DAY 9 – 18 NOVEMBER 2021 – In Izmir

Turkish breakfast is among the most elaborate I have ever come across anywhere in the world. The one in the Oglakcioglu Park Boutique Hotel, Izmir surpassed the wildest of wild expectations. The Hotel served only breakfast, which was included in the tariff. Hetal and I were told to wear masks while picking up breakfast, for which each of us was given a plate and tongs too. For quite some time we went around the spread before deciding on how to layer our stomachs. The choice of cheese, bread, jam, olives, dry fruits, fresh fruits, meats, etc. made us spend more time at the breakfast table than we would normally have. I started with eggs, salami, ham, sausages, fries and toast. Then came the olives, cheese, honey, pide, dry fruits and a cup of coffee. The third round consisted of white bread, strawberry jam, fig jam and berry jam, salad and omelette. The important thing with Turkish breakfast is that a vegetarian too has enough to feast on. Hetal is happy with a spread of Turkish breakfast, especially when one is as elaborate as it was this day.

The day was not promising at all. Heavy smog hung low and there did not seem to be any chance of the weather improving. We delayed departure from the hotel hoping that the weather would turn, but it did not. We knew that the lousy smog would block views we had hoped to see. I sought assistance from the receptionist to decide what the best mode of moving around would be for the day. Finally, from around the corner of the hotel we took a taxi to Asansor. I had the route set on Google Maps on my phone, but the driver took a different route that increased the distance. I told him, as mildly as I could, that we would like to get to Asansor by the shortest route. The extra traffic also added to the taxi fare. As we were nearing Asansor the driver took another deviation and this time I was cross with him. He put out his hand to say I should be patient. I apologised to him when he got us to Asansor by a short cut, for which we paid 21 TL, the equivalent of Rs. 140.

The Asansor is a historical building and a prominent landmark in Izmir. Asansor is Turkish for elevator. It is actually an elevator constructed in 1907 by the wealthy Jewish banker, trader and philanthropist, Nesim Levi, as a public service to obviate the misery of people who had to climb 155 steps from Karatas to the hillside where people lived. The elevator remains busy during the day and this day was no exception. It is used by commuters and people resident in the hillside, besides the swarming tourists. The quiet elevator takes one up four floors, right up a cliff, to a platform from where one can normally see the beautiful sights of Izmir and the Gulf of Izmir. However, most disappointing were the views from the observation deck of Asansor.

Nothing could be seen and our efforts to stay on some more time and hope for the best were dashed when a kind gentlemen serving in the Izmir Tarihi Asansor Binasi (which translates to Izmir Historical Asansor Building) cafe told me that it would be a waste of time. Beriye told me that the historical monument is defaced by hundreds of irresponsible visitors who write their names and love notes on the walls of the monument. When we had first seen the ‘writings on the wall’ we had thought that that was encouraged and had plans to add to them! The amiable gentleman was quite proficient in English and I asked him directions to go to Mount Kadifekale, which at 190 meters would have afforded the best views of Izmir and the Gulf of Izmir. He said that one would only be wasting taxi charge going up there in this weather and we quickly dropped that idea. That part of the day’s itinerary was dropped and the rest was modified.

The next best we could do was to walk from Asansor to Alsancak along the Kordon walkway and promenade, right along the waters of the Gulf of Izmir, which is an inlet of the Aegean Sea. While the 5 km walk was pleasant and every bit enjoyable, the views across the Gulf and the distant shorelines were hopeless because of the mist; there was not a shred of blue in the sky and the grey was indeed depressing. We walked leisurely along the promenade taking in what we could.

Angling is big in Turkey and every bridge or promenade we have visited thus far have had a fair share of anglers, be it the Galata Bridge or the Usukdar promenade in Istanbul, the Gallipoli and Canakkale waterfronts. The Kordon walkway has been provided special seating for the anglers to comfortably exercise their skill and passion. These anglers are a proud lot too. One of them opened his bag and showed me a large fish he had caught a while ago and was happy when I took a photo of his with his ‘achievement’. 

Parents were on the promenade too with their children. There were many well-maintained play areas for the kids and exercise equipment for adults and the elderly. Small parks with sculptures and statues, well laid out flower beds and manicured lawns and multiple walking tracks are there right up to the international Port of Izmir. In Alsancak, which is at the end of the Kordon promenade, a small depot maintains nostalgic tram cars that run a short distance from the depot to the Republic Square. We had not taken the Izmir Kart that would have given us access to all public transport in Izmir, much the same way as the Istanbul Kart did in Istanbul. However, the Kordon walk took us past the Konak ferry terminal, the Konak Pier, the Ataturk Monument and Republic Square to the lively Alsancak. The number of cafes and eateries in Alsancak blew our minds. By around noon the eateries were busy serving a late breakfast and lunch.

The Republic Square, or Cumhuriyet Meydani in Turkish, is one of the prominent coastal squares for public gatherings and meetings located near the Pasaport Quay. The Ataturk Monument in the centre of the Square is a bronze and marble sculpture of the equestrian Kemal Ataturk and commemorates the Turkish War of Independence. The base marble has the inscription, “Armies your first target is the Mediterranean Sea. Forward!”, a famous quote attributed to Ataturk. The Turkish War of Independence between 1919 and 1923, following WW1, was a National Movement against the balkanisation of the country. This led to the establishment of the Republic of Turkey. Similarly, the marble and bronze Tree of the Republic Statue in Gundogdu Square, which marks the centre point of the Kordon promenade, celebrates the 80th anniversary of the establishment of the Republic. Naturally, this area is popular for political demonstrations, rallies, gatherings and protests.

On the walk back to the hotel we found a van dispensing a Turkish dessert, Lokma. People in the queue seemed to be collecting Lokma in plastic containers and taking them away without making any payment. When our turn came the duo that served from the van told us that they were serving the Lokma free to those who needed it. He gave me two helpings knowing that I was new to that food item. Lokma is deep fried dough soaked in sugar syrup. That was another one ticked off from the bucket list.

The Kulturpark is a humongous park located at the centre of the city spanning more than 4.5 million square feet. The highlight of the park is the nearly 8000 trees that are tagged and insured. The Park has exhibition halls, convention centres, open air theatre, an amusement centre, art centre, a museum, a parachute centre, running track, swimming pool, tennis courts and a football pitch. We went in through the Lozan Gate to appreciate the well maintained premises, a lovely fountain and an obelisk. The Kulturpark is the venue for the Izmir International Fair, as well.

Our legs were barely following our instructions by the time we got to the hotel. A few hours of rest and we were out back on the street again. The previous  evening we had chanced by a store that sold different types of nuts and dry fruits. We had bought a half kg of mixed nuts for the equivalent of Rs. 140. It was so nourishing and delicious that we decided to buy some more and sauntered into the store. This time we picked up a kg of the mixed nuts, half kg of hazelnuts for Hetal’s baking requirement, a kg of dried figs and an assortment of dry fruits. The three kilos of nuts and dried fruits cost is less than Rs. 1200! We wished then that we had more baggage allowance.

After that it was a hunt to get something vegetarian for Hetal. People do not even seem to understand what vegetarian is in these places. Explaining it in English and trying to make cafe and restaurant guys understand is the worst part. Finally, we managed a mushroom and cheese pizza with the traditional Chai. After that we went to a corner Doner and I had a super Doner shawarma. The piece de resistance, of course, was the baklavas. As if the sugar we had imbibed with the Lokma was not enough, we were drawn into the Unluoglu dessert shop, which is seldom free. We ordered a piece each of Midiye baklava and Saray Sarma. To say that they were lovely would be the understatement of the year. Awesome and cheap. With that ended the Izmir leg of the Turkish tour.