A TURKISH DELIGHT - DAY 9 – 18 NOVEMBER 2021 – In Izmir

Turkish breakfast is among the most elaborate I have ever come across anywhere in the world. The one in the Oglakcioglu Park Boutique Hotel, Izmir surpassed the wildest of wild expectations. The Hotel served only breakfast, which was included in the tariff. Hetal and I were told to wear masks while picking up breakfast, for which each of us was given a plate and tongs too. For quite some time we went around the spread before deciding on how to layer our stomachs. The choice of cheese, bread, jam, olives, dry fruits, fresh fruits, meats, etc. made us spend more time at the breakfast table than we would normally have. I started with eggs, salami, ham, sausages, fries and toast. Then came the olives, cheese, honey, pide, dry fruits and a cup of coffee. The third round consisted of white bread, strawberry jam, fig jam and berry jam, salad and omelette. The important thing with Turkish breakfast is that a vegetarian too has enough to feast on. Hetal is happy with a spread of Turkish breakfast, especially when one is as elaborate as it was this day.

The day was not promising at all. Heavy smog hung low and there did not seem to be any chance of the weather improving. We delayed departure from the hotel hoping that the weather would turn, but it did not. We knew that the lousy smog would block views we had hoped to see. I sought assistance from the receptionist to decide what the best mode of moving around would be for the day. Finally, from around the corner of the hotel we took a taxi to Asansor. I had the route set on Google Maps on my phone, but the driver took a different route that increased the distance. I told him, as mildly as I could, that we would like to get to Asansor by the shortest route. The extra traffic also added to the taxi fare. As we were nearing Asansor the driver took another deviation and this time I was cross with him. He put out his hand to say I should be patient. I apologised to him when he got us to Asansor by a short cut, for which we paid 21 TL, the equivalent of Rs. 140.

The Asansor is a historical building and a prominent landmark in Izmir. Asansor is Turkish for elevator. It is actually an elevator constructed in 1907 by the wealthy Jewish banker, trader and philanthropist, Nesim Levi, as a public service to obviate the misery of people who had to climb 155 steps from Karatas to the hillside where people lived. The elevator remains busy during the day and this day was no exception. It is used by commuters and people resident in the hillside, besides the swarming tourists. The quiet elevator takes one up four floors, right up a cliff, to a platform from where one can normally see the beautiful sights of Izmir and the Gulf of Izmir. However, most disappointing were the views from the observation deck of Asansor.

Nothing could be seen and our efforts to stay on some more time and hope for the best were dashed when a kind gentlemen serving in the Izmir Tarihi Asansor Binasi (which translates to Izmir Historical Asansor Building) cafe told me that it would be a waste of time. Beriye told me that the historical monument is defaced by hundreds of irresponsible visitors who write their names and love notes on the walls of the monument. When we had first seen the ‘writings on the wall’ we had thought that that was encouraged and had plans to add to them! The amiable gentleman was quite proficient in English and I asked him directions to go to Mount Kadifekale, which at 190 meters would have afforded the best views of Izmir and the Gulf of Izmir. He said that one would only be wasting taxi charge going up there in this weather and we quickly dropped that idea. That part of the day’s itinerary was dropped and the rest was modified.

The next best we could do was to walk from Asansor to Alsancak along the Kordon walkway and promenade, right along the waters of the Gulf of Izmir, which is an inlet of the Aegean Sea. While the 5 km walk was pleasant and every bit enjoyable, the views across the Gulf and the distant shorelines were hopeless because of the mist; there was not a shred of blue in the sky and the grey was indeed depressing. We walked leisurely along the promenade taking in what we could.

Angling is big in Turkey and every bridge or promenade we have visited thus far have had a fair share of anglers, be it the Galata Bridge or the Usukdar promenade in Istanbul, the Gallipoli and Canakkale waterfronts. The Kordon walkway has been provided special seating for the anglers to comfortably exercise their skill and passion. These anglers are a proud lot too. One of them opened his bag and showed me a large fish he had caught a while ago and was happy when I took a photo of his with his ‘achievement’. 

Parents were on the promenade too with their children. There were many well-maintained play areas for the kids and exercise equipment for adults and the elderly. Small parks with sculptures and statues, well laid out flower beds and manicured lawns and multiple walking tracks are there right up to the international Port of Izmir. In Alsancak, which is at the end of the Kordon promenade, a small depot maintains nostalgic tram cars that run a short distance from the depot to the Republic Square. We had not taken the Izmir Kart that would have given us access to all public transport in Izmir, much the same way as the Istanbul Kart did in Istanbul. However, the Kordon walk took us past the Konak ferry terminal, the Konak Pier, the Ataturk Monument and Republic Square to the lively Alsancak. The number of cafes and eateries in Alsancak blew our minds. By around noon the eateries were busy serving a late breakfast and lunch.

The Republic Square, or Cumhuriyet Meydani in Turkish, is one of the prominent coastal squares for public gatherings and meetings located near the Pasaport Quay. The Ataturk Monument in the centre of the Square is a bronze and marble sculpture of the equestrian Kemal Ataturk and commemorates the Turkish War of Independence. The base marble has the inscription, “Armies your first target is the Mediterranean Sea. Forward!”, a famous quote attributed to Ataturk. The Turkish War of Independence between 1919 and 1923, following WW1, was a National Movement against the balkanisation of the country. This led to the establishment of the Republic of Turkey. Similarly, the marble and bronze Tree of the Republic Statue in Gundogdu Square, which marks the centre point of the Kordon promenade, celebrates the 80th anniversary of the establishment of the Republic. Naturally, this area is popular for political demonstrations, rallies, gatherings and protests.

On the walk back to the hotel we found a van dispensing a Turkish dessert, Lokma. People in the queue seemed to be collecting Lokma in plastic containers and taking them away without making any payment. When our turn came the duo that served from the van told us that they were serving the Lokma free to those who needed it. He gave me two helpings knowing that I was new to that food item. Lokma is deep fried dough soaked in sugar syrup. That was another one ticked off from the bucket list.

The Kulturpark is a humongous park located at the centre of the city spanning more than 4.5 million square feet. The highlight of the park is the nearly 8000 trees that are tagged and insured. The Park has exhibition halls, convention centres, open air theatre, an amusement centre, art centre, a museum, a parachute centre, running track, swimming pool, tennis courts and a football pitch. We went in through the Lozan Gate to appreciate the well maintained premises, a lovely fountain and an obelisk. The Kulturpark is the venue for the Izmir International Fair, as well.

Our legs were barely following our instructions by the time we got to the hotel. A few hours of rest and we were out back on the street again. The previous  evening we had chanced by a store that sold different types of nuts and dry fruits. We had bought a half kg of mixed nuts for the equivalent of Rs. 140. It was so nourishing and delicious that we decided to buy some more and sauntered into the store. This time we picked up a kg of the mixed nuts, half kg of hazelnuts for Hetal’s baking requirement, a kg of dried figs and an assortment of dry fruits. The three kilos of nuts and dried fruits cost is less than Rs. 1200! We wished then that we had more baggage allowance.

After that it was a hunt to get something vegetarian for Hetal. People do not even seem to understand what vegetarian is in these places. Explaining it in English and trying to make cafe and restaurant guys understand is the worst part. Finally, we managed a mushroom and cheese pizza with the traditional Chai. After that we went to a corner Doner and I had a super Doner shawarma. The piece de resistance, of course, was the baklavas. As if the sugar we had imbibed with the Lokma was not enough, we were drawn into the Unluoglu dessert shop, which is seldom free. We ordered a piece each of Midiye baklava and Saray Sarma. To say that they were lovely would be the understatement of the year. Awesome and cheap. With that ended the Izmir leg of the Turkish tour.