I believe that everything that happens to you happens for a reason and every person you meet is for a reason too. This morning, after breakfast, as we were leaving the hotel I chanced upon the owner of the hotel we were staying in. He had gone through my book, “Flirting with Kangaroo and Kiwis”, at the reception and had been waiting to meet with me. After few pleasantries he asked what our plans were. When I shared that he quickly took out a tourist map and explained why I should do what he was chalking out for me. That set the tone for the rest of the day. A Guardian Angel had been placed there just for me!
Kaymakli underground city is one of the largest settlements in the Central Anatolian region. It differs from the Derinkuyu underground city, where I was initially to go, in terms of depth, structure and complexity. While Kaymakli tour can be done in a circular manner, the entry and exit in Derinkuyu is through the same route interfering with the movement of other tourists. Kaymakli is about 30 km from Goreme and the entrance fee is 60 TL per head. Immediately as we got through the entrance Levant, an English speaking guide, offered to take us around the underground city for 20 Euros.
A fan of Bollywood films and a fan of the Khans, he knew quite a few Hindi words during the tour. His favourites being Dushman, Hamla, Nazar, Masala, Phir Aana, etc. The next half hour was fascinating. There was a large group in the first level and hence, he guided us through a narrow passage to the second level, which was meant for priests. There are living areas, bigger ones for more important priests, a nave with apses, tombs and what looked to be an etched Greek Orthodox cross and a Catholic cross. The Kaymakli underground city was in regular use from 400 to 1200 AD when Christianity grew in significance and therefore, its followers were also open to persecution. Once the Ottomans overthrew the Byzantine Empire, the Christians fled to the Balkans, abandoning the underground city, which had been carved out from soft volcanic rock. The city was used intermittently for escaping invasions and intrusions by local people. Till 1964, when the city was opened to tourism, it was used as storage area by the locals as the difference in temperature between the outside and the underground was 15 degrees.
The third level is the most important place with large storage areas, oil and wine presses, kitchens and community living. Linseed oil was used to light lamps in small niches on the walls as well as for cooking. The Central Anatolian region does not grow olives. Ventilation shafts ensure that the kitchens and the city are properly vented. Cooking was mostly done in the night to escape enemy attention. Items were dried and stored like meat and fruits. The large storage area pointed to the large population it seemed to have supported, often thought to be in excess of 5000. The narrow passages could be blocked by rolling huge stones across them. There is a grinding stone, similar to the one found in homes in India in the past, called chakki, to powder cereals and grains. Another interesting large stone had small niches in them that was either used to powder spices or for metallurgy.
Only a fraction of the ancient dwellings is now open. It is said to have been at 8 levels, while only 5 levels are open to the public now, 3 having collapsed over time. At the fifth level, Levant mentioned that we were about 25 meters below the surface. The fourth and fifth levels were living quarters, larger ones for larger families, who slept in the floor, using treated animal skin as a sheet. Human waste was collected in each room in clay pots. They were treated with ash and salt to avoid smell and kill bacteria, which were later thrown out. The vent shafts were used as a water collection point as well as for security purposes.
The process for making wine then seems to have been the similar to what it is now. Crush grapes on the floor with feet, collect the juice in receptacles, through a small hole on the side of the floor. Large fermentation areas age and store the wine. Wine was considered safer than water that were often contaminated.
As we were exiting through the first level Levant explained that that level was for animals. The first level was used for animals for two reasons, one to keep away their smell and the second, as an early warning system to alert people below against intruders. There were holes in the wall to tether animals and feed them. The amount of time people spent underground depended on the enemy. They could be there for weeks or months. During the busy season more than 4000 visitors trudge the narrow passages daily, that have now been widened by the government for the comfort of visitors, as against 1000 during the off peak.
About 45 minutes’ drive from Kaymakli is the Soganli valley, with an entrance charge of 12.5 TL per person, that has a large number of rock cut churches and dwelling units carved from soft tuff stone. The valley was inhabited by Byzantine monks between the 9th and 13th centuries AD. They are responsible for the construction of more than hundred churches found in the valley, connected rock-cut houses and cloisters. Most of them have collapsed with the passage of time. Dovecotes are also notable, that are carved into the cliffs, with entry holes marked out on the cliff using white paint. They are used even now to collect pigeon excreta for use as organic manure for farming. Seven of the important churches can be visited now. A couple of them have frescos that depict the life of Christ, but most of them are heavily damaged and vandalised. One of the churches is dedicated to St. George and another to St. Barbara. Each church seemed to accommodate its own small community with living, praying and working areas.
The next visit was to the Sobesos Ancient City that was discovered by accident in 2002. As a result of three years of excavations many factors came to light that mirrored Cappadocian life of the times. From the motifs embroidered on coloured stones and floor mosaics, made with interesting geometric patterns as can be seen in the Terrace Houses in Ephesus, Roman period architecture is suggested. Some of the excavations have been of a bathhouse, cemeteries, chapel and an administrative centre.
The Cemil village was a predominantly Greek village till 1924, where a church and mosque stood side by side. The Cemil church was built in 1882. The blue-columned church, with its defaced fresco fragments, overlooks a hill slope of erstwhile Greek mansions. The village is ghostly with just about a 100 households now, dependent on farming and livestock. A portly lady came over to unlock the church. From the plastic chairs in front of an apse we presumed that the church is still used for worship. The bell tower of the church is still intact.
The Devrent Valley, near Goreme Village, is a valley like no other in the Cappadocian region. It has incredible pink-hued rock formations and geographical structures that have been formed by the magic of wind and water over millennia. Geologists call the phenomena differential erosion. The pillar like shapes and other forms, for its unearthly appearance, is known as lunar landscape or moonscape. Scattered about are formations and fairy chimneys that can be identified with your imagination. That is also why the valley is also known as Imagination Valley. The most popular formation for selfies is the camel fairy chimney.
The Love Valley, near Goreme, is a valley with scenic penis shaped natural formations. The ancient formations sit at over one thousand meters altitude and can be visited either from the viewpoint above or taken on foot. The huge phallic structures are pure magic. Apart from gift shops and cafes there are ATV rides and photography sessions. The valley is said to be popular with couples who wish to propose marriage. The entrance to both the magical valleys, Devrent and Love, are totally free. Certainly must visit for those visiting the region.
The last engagement for the day was the Goreme Open Air Museum. We were a bit stressed for time when we reached the Museum as it closed its gates by 4 PM during this season. The entry fee is steep at 100 TL per person for foreigners. The Open Air Museum is a vast monastic complex of refectories, churches and living quarters placed side by side. The Nunnery is the first building that strikes the eye as you enter the complex. There are more than 10 churches, some with well-preserved frescos that must be taken in slowly. The Buckle, Sandle, Snake, St. Barabara, Apple and Dark churches are worth spending time in. The Dark Church allowed very little light in and hence, the frescos are in better condition. Unfortunately, photography is not permitted in any of the churches.
It had been a cold day with thick mists in the morning that cleared up during the day. It was even colder when we reached the Namaste India restaurant in the town centre for dinner. While the food, masala chole, tadka dal and jeera rice were good, even though highly priced, we found the service appalling and I made it known to the management. Warm water took more than 20 minutes to arrive and the food over half hour. We had ordered tandoori roti and what arrived was tawa roti. Serving spoons had to be asked for and there were no onions, pickle or lime as asides. A very Indian experience in the heart of Turkey.
No comments:
Post a Comment