96 hours in Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia – 27 May 2026

The booked cab arrived before 5 am and I was ready to leave for the airport. At that hour the roads were free, and I arrived in the airport within an hour. Before leaving for the airport, I had a message from the airline that the flight would be leaving an hour late at 9.35 am.

The check-in was quick, but the security check took time. It was baffling that despite the large number of passengers snaking in queues only half the number of scanners were being used. Once the security was done the immigration formalities didn't take much time. I used the left-over time to pick up some chocolates and biscuits. Later I had a falafel platter for breakfast.

On board the Korean Air flight the service was excellent. I slept for most part of the three and half hour flight. In between I had a meal of stewed chicken with steamed potatoes in sauce. The tomato juice was out of the world. Shortly after noon, local time, we touched down in Ulaanbaatar, the 70th country of my visit.

Two flights had landed almost simultaneously, and the passengers queues up for immigration. The number of officers available to clear the passengers were inadequate and it took more than an hour to complete immigration. Despite that delay the baggage had not yet arrived on the carousel.

I had booked an airport transfer in advance from India and was in constant communication with My Mongolia Airport Transfers. As I exited the arrival gate the driver was there with a placard with my name on it. I left the airport at a quarter past 1 pm. The infrastructure from the airport till we neared Ulaanbaatar was top class with grid separated six lane highway.

On the way I could see almost a new city being raised with high rise commercial and residential buildings in various stages of development. The capital city was expanding its frontiers to take care of modern requirements, it seemed. As the capital city approached the traffic started crawling and I finally reached the accommodation after 3.30 pm. The last stretch of 15 km took nearly 90 minutes and driving discipline had gone out of the window.

At the accommodation, Anu, the girl in charge of the company that rented the apartment, was waiting to familiarise me with the facility. The apartment was on the fourth floor of a relatively old building with no elevator. It was indeed a herculean task to take the luggage up to the apartment. I was surprised to see how well the apartment was maintained and the facilities it contained. After the experience in Seoul, this was a couple of eras removed.

After settling the luggage into the apartment I took a walk to the Naiman Sharga road where Anu had told me I would be able to change currency. The going rate was 3588 MNT to a USD. I wasn't asked for my passport. The local currency in denominations of 20,000, 10,000, 1,000, 500, 100 and 50 was counted and handed over to me. I had a huge bundle of notes making a visible bump in my pocket.

I started the sightseeing I had listed for the afternoon from the Peace Avenue, which was just a hundred meters from my centrally located apartment. The Peace Avenue is one of Ulaanbaatar’s most prominent and significant thoroughfares, stretching across the heart of Mongolia’s capital. As a major street, it serves as a central artery connecting various important areas of the city and is lined with a mix of modern buildings, shops, and government institutions. Peace Avenue plays a crucial role in Ulaanbaatar's urban landscape, reflecting the city’s growth and modernization while also serving as a hub of activity and commerce.

The avenue has wide six landed roads and well-maintained sidewalks, which accommodate the heavy pedestrian and vehicular traffic typical of the bustling capital city. Peace Avenue also has a variety of retail establishments, restaurants, and cafes, offering a vibrant shopping and dining experience. It is a popular destination for residents and tourists alike, providing a glimpse into the dynamic urban life of Ulaanbaatar.

The Sukhbataar Square is the central square of Ulaanbaatar, named after the Mongolian revolutionary hero Damdin Sukhbaatar after his death in 1923. The square features a massive equestrian statue of the hero in its center. In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, the grounds of the present-day government palace and public square were largely occupied by a temple-monastery-palace complex, which acted as the official residence of Mongolia's spiritual leader.

The temple-complex was razed following the Mongolian People's Revolution of 1921. In the present day, the square is used for major state ceremonies, cultural events, concerts, and exhibitions. One such event had just concluded when I was at the square with young girls being presented medals and honours. Visiting heads of state generally pay respects in front of the statue of Sukhbaatar and Genghis Khan.

The modern Government Palace, rebuilt and renovated in the past decade, is located to the north of the square, has a large colonnaded monument containing statues of Genghis Khan in the centre, with Ogedei Khan and Kublai Khan to his left and right. The central statue of Genghis Khan is flanked by Bo'orchu and Muqali. Briefly, the name of the square had been changed to Chinggis Square in 2013, but the original name was restored in 2016.

A short walk away is the imposing modern Chinggis Khaan National Museum that was established in 2019 - 2022 on the Mongolian Plateau where the great Khaan was born. I decided to explore that magnificent museum a couple of days later along with the Nation Museum of Mongolia, which was in the vicinity of this complex.

The Peace Tower in Ulaanbaatar is a significant landmark in Ulaanbaatar that offers panoramic views of the city. It stands as a symbol of peace and friendship, with its unique architecture and historical significance drawing visitors from around the world. The tower's observation deck provides stunning vistas of the surrounding areas.

There are plenty of dining options in Ulaanbaatar for the hungry belly be it food trucks, cafes, convenience stores or restaurants. I had a huge portion of fries and sausages at a food truck. Mixed with a couple of sauces it tasted so yummy. Later I walked into the Art cafe, close to my apartment, for a cappuccino. I was served the coffee with a dash of Aparajita.

One of the things, unlike Seoul or even Tokyo, it is not difficult to find places or buildings because almost everywhere directions and signages are in English. However, communication with locals in English is cumbersome with most of them just saying 'No'! 

96 hours in Seoul, South Korea – 26 May 2026

It was to be a relatively lighter day after two days of hectic activity. I left the accommodation later than usual because of that as well as to avoid the peak metro traffic. A service with one transfer took me to the  Myeongdong station. From the metro exit I walked to the Namsan cable car station, of which the last 400 meters turned out to be quite steep.

The N Seoul Tower was partially visible from the cable car station. Being a senior citizen I had to pay just the child fare of 11,500 KRW for a return trip. The cable car station was quite crowded and the wait for the transport promised to be long as there were only two cars which went back and forth on two tracks. The cable car began its operation in 1962, transferring passengers from the foot of the mountain to the base of the tower.

When my turn finally came for the cable car ride, I was dismayed by the cloudy day and the poor views it afforded.  Exiting from the docking area of the Tower I climbed a few steep steps and came to the Lock Bridge leading to the N Seoul Tower. Its railings and fences were covered with "padlocks of love," where visitors will feel the weight and importance of love.

I came across people speaking many languages there, but the one thing in common was love, which showed on their faces, gestures and the poses for photos. Love could be seen in the air, so to say. The increasing volume of tourists translates also to a greater number of padlocks hanging on the fences of the bridge and base of the tower, where there are seven tree-shaped frames.

This place has now become a popular date spot for couples. Like the Pont Neuf bridge in Paris, couples head to the tower to lock their "padlock of love" onto the railing and to dream that their love will last to the very end. I noticed a signage which said that old locks will be removed and kept in safe custody for a year, after which it will be disposed off. 

Besides, boxes are provided in many places to dispose off the keys of locks placed on the fences. This is to ensure that people don't throw them away somewhere in the Namsan Park, thereby harming the environment. High visibility thanks to TV dramas, entertainment programs featuring movie stars and travel guidebooks, the N Seoul Tower has become a must-visit spot for travelers to Seoul.

People flock in the observation platform near the N Seoul Tower to enjoy cool, fresh breeze blowing across Namsan Mountain, a respite from the hot and humid weather. The Namsan Park located at the base of Namsan Mountain is the largest civic park in Seoul. This is a space where people can enjoy nature within the city and hike the various trails within the park.

I did not buy a ticket to go to the observation deck of the tower as it was cloudy. I had looked forward to the panoramic views of the city, but was denied by the weather. Instead, I sat close to an observation deck and ate a meal of fried chicken, French fries, garlic bread and coleslaw.

I didn't have to wait much for the return cable car ride. From the level at which I had bought the ticket for the cable car ride I 'discovered' the Oreumi elevator. The steep funicular ride to the level of the road is free. I wished I had known about it earlier, instead of having burnt the soles of my feet. From the bottom of the funicular I decided to walk all the way to the Dongdaemun Design Plaza (DDP), a good hour away.

Fortunately, while the weather denied me the views from the N Seoul Tower, it was my assist in the long walk. Besides the weather, flawless sidewalks, pedestrian crossings and orderly traffic made the walk enjoyable and not as arduous as I thought it would be. On the way, I dropped by at "The Twosome Place", a chain of cafes in Korea, for a cup of coffee. The break refreshed and gave me fresh legs for the rest of the walk.

When I reached the DDP I was blown away by the futuristic facade. The massive structure is an urban attraction. I walked in through the entrance doors expecting a hefty fee to take a round of the facility. I was told that entrance fee is only leviable if you want a roof walk to walk along the newly expanded 652-meter DDP rooftop and enjoy a 360-degree panoramic view of Dongdaemun and the Seoul skyline. The roof tour program offers a unique way to experience the city from above.

The DDP cultural complex connects design and culture through exhibitions and events. It showcases new products and trends while sharing creative values through engaging experiences. One of the ongoing exhibitions was the Keykney illustrations. I had never heard of this at all before. At the exhibition I came to know that Keykney is the pseudonym of a Korean illustrator, who provides comfort and laughter through his impromptu works. His works are filled with humor and live, working as a stress buster for everyday life since 2018.

From the DDP I took a metro ride to the premises of the National Museum of Korea, which is the flagship museum of Korean history and art in South Korea. Since its establishment in 1945, the museum has been committed to various studies and research activities in the fields of archaeology, history, and art, continuously developing a variety of exhibitions and education programs. The National Museum of Korea houses a vast collection of artifacts from ancient times to the modern era in a wide range of topics, including art and culture.

The outdoor grounds feature pagodas and other stone artworks too large to be on display inside. In addition to galleries with a wide array of national and international pieces, the National Museum of Korea is a stage for a number of cultural activities related to collection, preservation, research and analysis, social training, academic publications, intercultural exchange programs, concerts, and more.

As per the itinerary I had to visit the Han Riverside and experience the calm and uplifting environment there. However, the skies didn't hold much promise and there was forecast for rain. I decided to skip this part of the day's program and return to the accommodation. It was indeed the right decision because it started raining as soon as I got into the metro subway train.

I had about 2500 KRW on the T-money card. I hoped to cash that out in the 7/11 convenience store on the way back to the accommodation. In Japan I had done the same with the Suica card. With that in mind, I walked into the 7/11 store and picked up a can of beer and Korean noodles. At the counter the lady flatly refused saying that the card is already cashed out, which it wasn't. At one point, with customers waiting, I let the matter go and paid for the items in cash. Thus, the balance on the card was lost.

The can of Kloud beer, which had become the norm in Seoul, preceded the dinner which consisted of Korean noodles and some sweet potato. I reconfirmed the cab reservation to leave for the airport at 5 am to take the flight to Ulaanbaatar, before sinking into the bed to rest the fatigued muscles and weary bones. 

96 hours in Seoul, South Korea – 25 May 2026

The previous day I had been hamstrung by the non-availability of the Matrix esim connection. I lost a lot of time seeking out free wifi locations and fading connectivity. Therefore, the restoration of the Matrix esim, thanks to the coordinated efforts of the Matrix team, particularly Rahul Jadhav at the Mumbai airport, I stepped out from the accommodation this morning with a joie de vivre that was missing yesterday.

I started early with the primary purpose of witnessing the much advertised 'Changing of the guards Ceremony' in the Gyeongbokgung Palace. In the excitement, I even got down at a station prior to the one I was to transfer. That lost me some time. However, when I finally reached the neighborhood of the Palace I went to the Isaac Toast outlet near it. As bad luck would have it the eatery was closed. I pared into the Paris Baguette then and had a cup of cappuccino and egg sandwich.

I was well in time for the changing guard ceremony in the Gyeongbokgung Palace. One need not buy a ticket to witness the guard changing ceremony. However, entrance to the Palace grounds entail a 3000 KRW fee. Much to my delight, as a senior citizen, I was given free access when my passport proved my claim. I took a short tour of the Palace grounds to take in the historical and architectural magnificence of the Palace.

The Gyeongbokgung Palace, built in 1395, is the largest and premier royal palace of the Joseon Dynasty. As the political and cultural center of the kingdom, it symbolized the dynasty's founding, Korea's resilience against colonial rule, and a masterpiece of traditional feng shui architecture perfectly integrated with nature. The Palace is built with Bugaksan Mountain at its back and facing out toward the Han River to achieve perfect geomantic harmony.

The iconic two-story banquets hall, the Gyeonghoeru Pavilion, sits on a beautifully landscaped artificial island and remains one of the finest examples of the Joseon-era architecture. The fortunes of the Palace waxed and waned throughout its history. The subsequent restoration serves as a profound emblem of Korean endurance and cultural revival.

The Changing of the Guard Ceremony at Gyeongbokgung Palace is a vibrant, free public reenactment of Joseon Dynasty royal guard rotations, which takes place twice every day at 10:00 AM and 2:00 PM. The duration of the ceremony is about 20 minutes.

In the sweltering heat hundreds of curious visitors milled around a circle in the main courtyard. The ceremony features performers in historically accurate, brightly colored traditional dress marching, to the tune of drums and pipes, with an elaborate description of the ceremony provided by a commentator. After the event visitors line up to take photos with the performers.

From the Palace I walked about 40 minutes, in the tough hot sun to the Bukchon Hanok village. On the way I stopped at a farmers' market and picked up a cup of fresh strawberries and a bottle of strawberry juice. That provided some relief from the rather oppressive heat. The Bukchon Hanok Village is home to hundreds of traditional houses, called hanok, that date back to the 14th century and thereabouts.

The name Bukchon, which literally translates to "northern village," came about as the neighborhood lies north of two significant Seoul landmarks, Cheonggyecheon Stream and Jongno. Today, many of these hanoks operate as cultural centers, guesthouses, restaurants and tea houses, providing visitors with an opportunity to experience, learn and immerse themselves in traditional Korean culture.

As Bukchon Hanok Village is an actual neighborhood with people's homes, visitors are advised to be respectful at all times while looking around. The Bukchon Hanok Village is one of the most visited areas of Seoul. From traditional craft workshops to tea houses hidden inside Hanok homes, this neighborhood has layers. I did spend some time in a tea house and the aromatica hanok. The place was crawling with tourists posing and pouting for that perfect photograph.

From the Bukchon Hanok, the Changdeokgung Palace was only 15 minutes away by foot. The Palace is a UNESCO World Heritage site and the most well-preserved of Joseon's five royal palaces. Built in 1405, it served as the royal residence for the longest period. It is celebrated for integrating exquisite traditional architecture with its natural topography. Again, as a senior citizen I escaped the 3000 KRW entrance fee.

The Palace is a pristine naturalistic landscape containing pavilions, lotus ponds, and a 300-year-old tree. Access to the secret garden requires a separate guided tour ticket. The Changdeokgung Palace was destroyed in the Japanese invasion in 1592 and was rebuilt in 1610. It was the major residence of kings for the next 270 years until Gyeongbokgung Palace was rebuilt in 1867 and served as the de facto primary palace.

I walked around the humongous palace area admitting the various buildings and the purpose for which they were built. Being a National Holiday, owing to Buddhas birthday, couples in traditional attire accompanied by professional photographers could be seen diligently going through elaborate settings with and without props.

The oppressive heat had given way to some cool breeze, and I decided to foot it to the 100-year-old Ikseon-dong Hanok Alley, where the harmony of alleys and over 100 hanok houses exude great charm. It has become a must-visit spot for tourists over the years. One may definitely ask what the difference is between Bukchon Hanok Village and Ikseon-dong. While Bukchon is a traditional, residential neighborhood, Ikseon-dong is trendier with cafes, restaurants, and boutique shops. It is known for its well-preserved traditional Korean houses repurposed into trendy retail outlets.

The narrow streets of Ikseon-dong were overflowing with visitors and tourists. Every cafe, restaurant and retail outlet had enough and more customers to handle. Long waiting lines could be seen outside cafes and restaurants. I was hungry from the long walk the whole morning and I took a seat in a restaurant serving hotpot meals. I ordered a portion of eggplant hotpot and breaded shrimps. While the latter was more of batter, the former was a full meal served with salad and three types of pickles and soup. The waiter told me to pour hot water, served in the tray that held the meal, into the hotpot and stir the rice, eggplant and pork bits thoroughly before feasting on it. The restaurant also served cold brown rice water.

While walking around the hanok complex I came to know that the poor condition of the hanoks had almost led to its complete redevelopment as a modern housing project in 2004. However, sane voices in the Seoul City Planning Commission were heard and a plan was put into action to preserve the hanoks. I walked along the narrow alleys, hoping I had a better appetite to savor the traditional culinary feasts on display and sale. In the end, despite the protuberant belly protesting any further assault on it, I walked into a crowded cafe to savour a delectable portion of homemade tiramisu. Moist and yummy it was, to say the least.

I had to walk off the extra calories mercilessly ingested in the past hour. Hence, I decided to walk from Ikseon-dong to the Cheonggyecheon stream. It was a long, but leisurely, walk that lasted nearly an hour. Along the way to the stream, I came across the Gwangjang Market, which was the first permanent market in Korea. It thrives as a popular tourist destination now. The name Gwangjang means "to gather from afar and keep altogether." The market began as a small trading center that brought in goods from nearby regions but has now grown into a large wholesale market selling a variety of goods, including upholstery, imported goods, groceries, dried fish, traditional goods, and more.

The market has more than 5000 shops and 20,000 employees in an area of 450,000 sq. ft. Approximately 65,000 people visit the market each day. The most popular section of the market is the massive food street, which caters to a wide range of patrons due to the variety of food served there. Besides the food, it has textiles, bedding, handicrafts and lacquerware inlaid with mother-of-pearl. I moved through the market and had a glass of fresh sugarcane juice.

The Cheonggyecheon Stream is an 11-kilometer modern, car-free urban park and promenade running through the heart of downtown Seoul. Restored in 2005 from a buried, polluted overpass, the stream features flat, tranquil walkways, 22 crossing bridges, steppingstones, and waterfalls. It is open 24/7 and is completely free. Access points via stairs and elevators line the route, connecting with several subway lines. People could be seen lounging under the bridges, some with their feet in the quietly flowing waters, experiencing fish massage.

The weather had become more conducive to walk the lovely pedestrian pathways. From the stream I took one of the stairs to the road above and set course for the Myeongdong Market. The ambling walk first took me to the majestic Myeongdong Cathedral, which is the most iconic cathedral in Korea, it being the birthplace for Roman Catholic Church community in Korea. Designated as historic spot No. 258, the Myeongdong Church has significant historical value embedded in its architecture. It is the first brick church in Korea built in Gothic style with a 45m tall bell tower.

The Cathedral Church of Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception, informally known as Myeongdong Cathedral, is a shrine is dedicated to the Blessed Virgin Mary, who was honored as the principal Patroness of Korea by a pontifical decree accorded by Pope Gregory XVI in 1841. The cathedral serves as a community landmark, tourist attraction, and a notable symbol of Catholic Church in Korea. The other notable features in the complex is a grotto to Our Lady and the Familia Chapel. I spent a few minutes in prayer and thanked Our Lady for Her call.

From the cathedral, in a short while, I was swallowed by a humongous sea of humanity, coursing through various streets of the Myeongdong Market. The entire place is chock full of shops, restaurants, cat cafes, photo booths, caricature stalls, beer and fried chicken outlets. It is without a doubt one of Seoul’s most popular night markets. The street food outlets were doing exceptional business.

I had the popular fish cake and a helping of strawberry mochi. My feet were almost falling apart, having walked more that 22,000 steps by then. It was time to get back to the accommodation for some well-earned rest. From the nearest metro station, I took the subway train to one closest to my accommodation. A can of Kloud beer was all that waited before seeking the company of the comfortable bed.