It is not all work in Kazakhstan – In Nur Sultan – 20 August 2022

The stay in Atyrau ATB Grand Hotel had been comfortable. A suite room with breakfast for less than $50 a day is a sweet deal. Its proximity to the airport, just about 20 minutes drive, is a big plus too. The staff are well mannered and helpful. The only negative I experienced was that the hotel gave just one bottle of water and a couple of stubs of coffee and sachets of tea for the entire stay of three days. When I asked why there was no refill everyday when the room was done I was told that that's the policy of the hotel. That was annoying.

The flight to Nur Sultan was full. The two hour flight, with the time changing back to West Kazakhstan time, same as Almaty and half hour ahead of IST, landed on time. Nearing the airport I saw vast swathes of organised farming, something one does not see in other parts of this country much. As I stepped out of the aircraft I was jolted by a draught of cold air. The weather is a great deal different from that in Almaty and Atyrau. My colleague in Almaty, Ruslan, had warned me to expect the changed weather as well as rain.

The airport in Nur Sultan is a great deal different from those in Almaty and Atyrau. It is more modern and spacious. The duty free shops were more alluring and busy, too. The luggage came soon enough. For the first time in Kazakhstan I was all alone to manage logistics from the airport. I had already booked accommodation in a central part of the city. When I looked up alternatives to reach there I got confused. While a bus looked the cheapest option, the fastest was a Taxi. I knew I would find it difficult to use a bus or convince a taxi driver where I wanted to go. Not knowing what to do I went to the airport police room. One of the policemen helped get me a taxi to the hotel I had booked on booking.com.

Light rain and biting winds accompanied the drive to the hotel. The 30 minute drive, about 15 km, cost me 5000 KZT, roughly Rs. 800! Even though I had the help of Google Maps I was unable to find the entrance to the hotel. I got the driver to speak to the hotel and soon enough after a couple of street detours we were met by the Hotel receptionist at the entrance of a building that looked like a huge shopping complex, which I discovered it was. After I settled the kindly driver, the gentle lady escorted me through long corridors flanked by busy shops and two separate elevators to the 38th floor of the complex.

As we reached the compact reception of the VIP Hotel I was astounded, nay blown, by the stunning views of the city from there. At the reception I made the full payment and handed over my id for their record. The Hotel has a set menu for breakfast. I chose to have omlette and toast the next morning. The Hotel is on a portion of the 38th floor of the huge complex. Though not large, the room was comfortable, neat and clean with awesome views. The prospect for sightseeing looked a bit bleak with the light rain. However, by late afternoon the weather magically cleared and I sauntered out to experience some of the nearby sights.

The Nur Astana Mosque was 500 meters from the apartment. Fortunately, as the weather had cleared it was perfect for a leisurely walk. Considered to be the third largest mosque in Central Asia, the Nur Astana Mosque was established in 2008 with the height of the mosque, 40 meters, signifying the age at which the Prophet received the revelations and the height of the minaret, 63 meters, signifying the age at which the Prophet passed on. The mosque has a capacity of 5000 with a different section for women. The mosque was a gift based on an agreement between the President of Kazakhstan and the Emir of Qatar.  There is a lovely garden around the mosque where one can walk around or relax.

The Baiterek Tower was built in 2002 as a symbol of the shifting of the capital from Almaty to Astana, as Nur Sultan was known then. The monument blends the folklore of the mythical tree of life and the magic bird Samruk, which laid its egg in the crevice of two branches of the tree. The top floor of the monument is at 97 meters to signify the year, 1997, of the announcement of shifting of the capital city. The tower is one of the major tourist attractions of the city. For a small fee one can take the elevator up to the top floor and luxuriate in the magnificent 360 degree views of the city. The visitors waiting to go up the elevator were so numerous that I decided to skip it for then and try my luck the next day. The manicured gardens are a joy to walk around.

I stepped across the road to the Singing Fountain, which apparently is a stunning musical fountain with a light show every night. That is reserved for another day, for today I had to take advantage of the bright weather. The view of the Presidential Palace from the Singing Fountain with two golden towers flanking a central vista was truly glorious.

Dinner was at the traditional Saksaul restaurant, just a stone's throw away from the apartment building. Comfortable seating, aesthetic lighting and a good layout impressed me as I walked in. The smart Margulan was assigned to me. He seated me near the kitchen so that I could see how the preparations were made. I settled for a Pilav with beef chunks and a compote. I took my time to get through the portion.

The evening air was cool and salubrious. I walked around a bit before calling it a day. One thing must be said about this country. I have never seen an instance of eve teasing or street Romeos. They move around freely without fear of being molested or assaulted. And, this is nothing to do with the dress they wear, as is propagated by many in our country. There is so much more respect for women in this part of the world. This is true in South East Asian countries as well.

It is not all work in Kazakhstan – In Atyrau – 19 August 2022

As mentioned earlier, my first trip through Kazakhstan happened in 2014 during the Cochin-London car trip. In three days I drove 2200 km through Kazakhstan from the border with Kyrgyzstan to that of Russia. It was a whirlwind trip but introduced an intrepid entrepreneur and friend into my life. Mr. Ali, the owner of Kazmunai Services was the host, not only in Kazakhstan but also for a major part of the drive through Russia. He made elaborate arrangements to ensure smooth border crossings, provided a pilot right through to Moscow so that we never fell afoul of the law enforcement agencies, slept in comfortable accommodation and were well nourished.

One of Mr. Ali’s resources who had liaised with me at the time was CS Arun, an employee of Kazmunai Services in Almaty. He had been in charge of providing logistics support during my drive through Kazakhstan and Russia. Even though I had spoken to him a few times then I had never had the opportunity to meet him. Therefore, it was a surprise when he got through to me on WhatsApp last evening after seeing my Facebook post to request a meeting this day. This morning he dropped in at the office - he is presently on a short term assignment in Atyrau with a reputed company. It was indeed a pleasure to meet him and exchange a few thoughts. To me, it was never too late to thank someone for valuable support he had given during a difficult phase of the trip in 2014. While leaving, he gifted me a bottle of Kazakh wine, a souvenir and a box of Kazakh chocolates.

The official agenda for the morning was to visit Makhambet, a small town of Atyrau Region in West Kazakhstan, which lies 75 km north of Atyrau. One thing must be said about the roads in Kazakhstan – they are adequate, no frills ones with strict adherence to laid down speed limits. By and large, the road users are responsible and one does not get to see many accidents, even though the condition of many private cars looked beyond repair. On the way it was interesting to see cut-outs of horses kept on both sides of the road. Apparently, the vast lands that abound on either side of the road are used for horse breeding and farming. Indeed, I did see very many on the way. Fortunately, none sauntered on to the roads.

Makhambet lies below the mean sea level with a population below 10,000. A few new townships have come up in the recent past – evidence of new builds are also there – based on relocation of families from proven oil reserve areas like Tengiz. Another remarkable feature of the country in this part is that groundwater exploitation is totally prohibited. In fact, no digging is permitted without statutory clearance because of the possibility of oil and gas finds. Water is in plenty, though, because of the proximity of the Ural River. Moreover, the authorities act quite fast to provide water and electricity and laid down procedures work efficiently. 

On the way back to Atyrau, taking a newly laid highway I saw a large population of Bactrian camels, young and old, white and brown. The Bactrian camels were used mostly for the caravan trade along the Silk Route due to their high tolerance for extreme climates, drought, cold and high altitudes. These are double humped and native to the steppes of Central Asia. In the present day, their population of two million are found mostly in domesticate form. When I approached the herd the young ones quickly stepped away while the mature ones stared me in the eye for long before they thought me an intrusion and moved away. So much for experience!

The Ural River is by no means majestic in Atyrau, but I am drawn like a magnet to its bank, come late evening. The calmness, the cool breeze and the general quite in the area is balm for the old bones and soul. The walkway along the bank on the Asian side stretches long, as it does on the European bank too. At least at two points of the walkway there are steps one can take to enter the bridges that span the river connecting the two Continents. People enjoy their evening out with kids and elders. There is a dedicated cycling path too, which is quite popular. A few vendors hawking fruits and a couple of jetties providing boat rides are added attractions along the walkway. Another visit to the city has drawn to a close after providing abiding memories.

It is not all work in Kazakhstan – In Atyrau – 18 August 2022

I was among the first in the dining hall for the buffet breakfast. The well-lit dining hall with pastel coloured walls and colourful paintings was a lovely setting for a meal. A huge breakfast is the right way to start the day, at least for me. Pancakes with sourcherry and strawberry jams, assorted sausages, salami, omelette, apple juice, dry fruits and coffee - just a few from the buffet. That said, I would not call the buffet elaborate, but adequate.

After a visit to the company’s base yard in Karabatan, about 50 kms outside Atyrau city, it was lunch with office staff at Shaihana, which served traditional Kazakh cuisine. An exclusive table was arranged for the group. That the restaurant is popular with the local crowd was amply clear. The calorie ingestion started with campote and lime and kiwi juices, ceasar salad, baursak and other breads. Cold cuts which included beef tongue with veggies were part of the starters. The main dish was Fishparmak made from sturgeon, found in plenty in the Caspian Sea. The cuisine in these parts of the world is largely bland, mostly boiled with plenty of broth. This makes the food easy on the stomach. Soon came the fish broth in medium sized bowls followed by tea. To round up the fare were humongous pieces of moist cake. I feared that my knees would require assistance to lift the bulk from the chair after such a heavy meal.

One of the oldest and most beautiful architectural monuments of the town - Cathedral of the Assumption - is located in the heart of the city of Atyrau, just a few steps from the main square. This cathedral is one of the oldest temples in Kazakhstan, completed in 1888, and is one of the architectural monuments of national importance. Photography, as is the norm with Russian Orthodox churches, is prohibited inside the Cathedral.

The Russian Orthodox cross differs from the Western cross. The cross usually has three crossbeams, two horizontal and the third one is a bit slanted. While the top bar symbolizes the sign, Jesus of Nazareth, King of Jews, which was hung above the head of Christ, the middle bar was where Christ's hands were nailed. The lower slanted bar is the foot-rest, which prolongs the torture. The upward slant of the lower crossbeam on the right is also interpreted as where the penitent thief was crucified alongside Christ and the left that slants down for the impenitent thief. Another interpretation is that the upward slant points to Heaven and the downward slant to Hell; a scale of justice. The iconic Russian Orthodox cross was popularised by Ivan the Terrible, the first Tsar who wanted to promote the idea of Moscow being the Third Rome, a successor to Rome and Constantinople. The schism between the Latin and Eastern Churches widened further.

The main square in Atyrau is the Isatay and Makhambet Square which is in the European side of the city. The reconstructed square was opened in August 2019 with new fountains, benches and walkways. The monument was also renovated with additional parking lots around square. The square is quite popular with kids riding bicycles, skating and prancing around the fountains.

The two figure equestrian composition is a memorial to two Kazakh heroes, Isatay Taymanuly and Makhambet Utemisuly. They were the first to raise a rebellion against the Russian rulers of Kazakhstan in 1836-37. While Isatay was captured in 1838 and decapitated, Makhambet, a poet in his own right, had to flee into exile. However, the rebellions they staged against Russian colonisation resulted in his assassination in 1846. The monument in the Square overlooks a lot of activity, particularly for children. At the time of visit, stagings were being erected for a major program over the weekend.

Just to the side of the square is the blue domed Imangali Mosque. The construction of the mosque which began in 1999 was completed in 2001. The mosque has a large dome and two minarets. The mid-sized mosque can accommodate up to 600 worshippers. Close to the mosque is a building that houses imams and their families. Centrally located, the mosque gets quite crowded during Friday prayers.

The Ural River divides the transcontinental city into its Asian and European parts. At the start of the bridge there are markers denoting the Asian and European continents. While crossing the river across the bridge one travels from one continent to another in a couple of minutes!

It is not all work in Kazakhstan – In Atyrau – 17 August 2022

There was a sharp nip in the air in Almaty when I reached the airport early morning for the 8 am flight to Atyrau. The check-in was quick and efficient. That left me with some time to grab a coffee and do some social media work. The airport seemed busier than ever before with plenty of local and Russian tourists. The cafes, too, were busy with early morning fliers. I ordered a caffe latte and that turned out to be a big mistake. There was an overdose of milk and sugar in the coffee. It tasted more like a ‘payasam’ than a coffee. The Russian speaking waitress seemed lost when I asked her for extra decoction. After a while I gave up and decided to make the best of a bad bargain, sipping it slowly.

An interesting feature of the airports in Kazakhstan is that friends and relatives are permitted right up to security check along with the passenger. I haven’t seen many policemen or terminal security personnel in the terminals. If they are there, they are unobtrusive. The security check is non-invasive and efficient. Number of flights were announced within a short span of time and that kept the aerobridges busy too. The Almaty airport, though small, has a beautiful setting with Altai Mountains on one side.

Despite Kazakhstan being a very large country, the ninth largest in the world in fact, its population density is just 6 per sq km; 19 million people in 2.75 million sq km! Many regions are desert lands and uninhabited. The flight to Atyrau took slightly over three hours and I gained an hour as I touched down. From the pleasant climate of Almaty I had landed in a cauldron in Atyrau. It was energy sapping, to say the least.

I was picked up at the airport by one of my colleagues. It was straight to office and directly into work. Even after work was done for the day and I had checked into the hotel I did not dare outdoors till the heat had abated. The Grand Hotel, where I had reserved to stay through booking.com, was indeed a grand accommodation. The suite room had a large bedroom and ensuite bathroom, a large living room with TV, writing desk, etc. and a kitchen cum dining equipped with a refrigerator, plates, pans, cutlery, cups, spoons, knives and cleaning equipment. I picked up bread, baked beans, fruit juice, milk, chocolate and water from a grocery store just next door to the hotel.

The Ural River is just a ten minute walk from the Grand Hotel. Even by 6 pm the heat was overwhelming. I walked slowly, conserving energy to walk beside the river. When I reached the embankment of the river I was taken in by the transformation the season had made to the River! I had always seen it frozen over with people skating and walking across the frozen surface of the river. This time there were boat rides and people swimming in the river. The Ural River rises in the Ural Mountains and flows about 2500 kms southwards through Russia and Kazakhstan and flows into the Caspian Sea. The River also is a transcontinental marker separating Europe and Asia, as it were.

Atyrau is a transcontinental city situated close to the Caspian Sea - the airport is in Europe while the business centre is in Asia. Atyrau was known as Guryev till the country gained independence in 1991. It is also the capital of the Atyrau region, which is famous for its oil and gas industries. The proven oil reserves of Kazakhstan is the 12th highest in the world and has 260 times reserves in comparison to its annual consumption. With such riches, besides other ore reserves, one would expect the people to be well off, which, in fact, they are not. This is a major source of tension between locals and expats; the latter get paid multiples of what the locals are paid. It is quite evident that the pandemic and the strife in January has taken its toll. Besides, the Tengiz refinery work has also been completed. There are skilled locals with experience who are desperately looking for jobs.

After a short walk along the embankment of the river I took a slightly longer route to get to the hotel. Along the way I could see extensive road repairs being carried out. I was told that nothing had been done for two years and that had taken a toll on the infrastructure, including gas lines.

At the time of check-in I was given vouchers for a drink in the bar for the three days that I would be staying in the hotel. The hotel is quite tastefully done and the bar, though not busy, had a fair sprinkling of customers. Sipping a beer and devouring the free bowl of peanuts I completed all the work I had left over, before turning in for the night.

It is not all work in Kazakhstan – In Almaty – 16 August 2022

Mansarda is a restaurant on three floors that serves traditional cuisine. The popular restaurant, almost bang opposite the Umar Ibn Al’ Hattab Mosque of Almaty, was chosen for a luncheon repast with colleagues. The mosque is named after the second caliph of the Rashudin Caliphate who succeeded Abu Bakr. Umar was the father-in-law of the Prophet and is known as the father of Islamic jurisprudence. During his time the caliphate expanded its geographical reach and cultural influence.

Primarily meant as a bonding exercise, the get-together soon became a feast of some of the finest Kazakh cuisine. Compote or Kompot, a drink made of dried fruits, started the proceedings. It is a non-alcoholic sweet beverage obtained by cooking fruit such as strawberries, apricots, peaches, apples, raspberries, rhubarb, plums, or sour cherries in a large volume of water, often together with sugar or raisins as additional sweeteners. Kompot may be served hot or cold, depending on tradition and season. Kompot is popular in Central and Eastern European countries, where it was a means to preserve fruits. There were kiwi and lime mint drinks too to slake the thirst. Then came an assortment of salads with mushroom, lentils, spinach, basil, beetroot, carrot and such like. Kazakh breads are quite famous. Baursak and shelpak and other fried flat breads adorned the table in plenty. My choice for the main course was beef laghman on rice with veggies. That filled my side of the table! The portions were too huge for me to do any justice to the tasty fare. 

The evening sightseeing tour, with Assel in command once again, started at the Panfilov Park, which is dedicated and named after the 28 Panfilov Heroes who died fighting the Nazis outside Moscow during WWII. Ivan Panfilov, the General commanding the 316 division, managed to significantly delay the enemy’s advance on the capital, buying time for the defenders of the city. An eternal flame commemorating the fallen of 1917-20 (the Civil War) and 1941-45 (WWII), burns in front of the giant black monument of soldiers from all 15 Soviet republics.

The territory of the Park includes several historical buildings dating back to early and mid-20th century, such as the Ascension Cathedral, the Museum of Folk Musical Instruments and the House of Officers. Nowadays, the park is popular place for the locals and as well for tourists. During the Victory Day celebrations, citizens of Almaty lay flowers and wreaths at the memorial in respect for those killed in World War II.

The Zenkov Cathedral, aka Ascension Cathedral, was built in 1907, entirely out of wood without using a nail. The grand Russian Orthodox Church served as a museum and office during the Russian Revolution and its aftermath. Control was returned to the Church in 1995 and restored as a place of worship. The most recent restoration was between 2017 and 2020. During my previous visits to the Church I could not even imagine the glory of the building due to ongoing restoration works. With the restoration complete and the scaffolds removed the splendour of the Cathedral overawed me. The 56 meter tall church is considered to be the second tallest wooden structure in the world. The first views of the ornate interior of the church, that has many precious icons, is a jaw dropping moment. Normally, photography is prohibited in Russian Orthodox churches. However, in the Ascension Cathedral such restriction was not in force. 

While driving through the main streets of Almaty my attention was directed to the destruction caused to public buildings during the uprising in January this year. The unrest began in the country’s oil producing regions, which is also the poorest, near Aktobe, and quickly spread to the main cities of the country. It is rumoured that more than 1000 people lost their lives in the streets of Almaty itself. The residences that housed the President and the Mayor bore the brunt of public fury. The extensive damage caused to these buildings have rendered them unliveable. The State-run Media Centre also saw a slew of attacks with many journalists the target of attacks. 

A short walk from the Panfilov Park is the Green Bazaar. More than a shopping complex, it was an eye-opener for me. Immediately to the left of the huge building that houses the main market are long stretches of shops selling clothes, jewellery, leather products, backpacks, cosmetics and, with the schools scheduled to reopen, all that are required for children to get back to school such as uniforms, shoes, books and school bags. Despite it being crowded there was neither raised voices nor jostling.

The neat and clean, high-roofed main market was a revelation. One section of the market sold fresh fruits, vegetables, dried fruits, grocery and the other was the wet market. I spent some time at the open shop of Bekhtiyar, the enterprising Uzbek salesman, who made me sample some awesome value added dry fruits. I finally bought a kilo of chocolate laced walnuts and almonds. Had I stayed longer there I would have had to run to the money changer! The wet market section had displays of all sorts of meat – beef, chicken, horse, pork, camel. The fresh meat, particularly horse meat, was much in demand. Unlike in our markets in India the meat did not smell nor was there any vestige of waste.

The Gorky Central Park is more than 100 hectares in area and is presently privately managed. Despite it being a working day the Park was busy, the amusement centre was humming with adults and children. The central portion of the Park is a large lake with a canal system, ideal for paddle boating. Surrounding the lake is a lovely walkway. Cafes, eateries, rides, an aqua park where one can swim with dolphins and sea lions, shady areas with tall trees and activity kiosks make the Park worth a whole day tour. Mercifully the weather was excellent for the outdoors.

Back in the hotel after a visit to Rakhat, the Kazakh sweet and confectioners, and being 'waylaid' by colleagues to present a few traditional Kazakh gifts it was dinner of Laghman and beer at the Uyut Hotel. The stay in Almaty is over and it is now over to Atyrau.

It is not all work in Kazakhstan – In Almaty – 15 August 2022

I have been travelling on work to Kazakhstan since 2018, save the Covid years. All the previous visits have been around the winter season. This is my first visit to the city during the summer season. Almaty is very different in summer as compared to winter. I must confess that the city is much more engaging in the winter months. That said, there is such a lot to see in the city and a walking tour, if one has the legs, is the best way to get around. There is a very good network of buses and metro, besides taxis, to get around. Public transport is cheap with the Unified Transport Card, Onay.

One remarkable feature I noticed upon landing in Almaty is that no one, absolutely no one, wore a face mask. I, for one, refused to venture outdoors without one. I was unabashedly stared at on the roads and metro because my mask never came off my face! During the lunch break I walked round the corner of the office building to exchange USD to the local currency, Kazakh Tenge, KZT. The exchange rate for the day was 426 KZT to a USD. When I was in Almaty in 2018 the exchange rate had been 320 KZT to a USD – a quarter erosion in four years. The process for exchange is straightforward – hand over the currency with the passport and the exchanged money is handed over with the passport in a few minutes. As it was lunch break the exchange counters were a bit busy. If one has a bank account, then foreign currency can be exchanged through the account. But, the commission will set you back by a bit. Hence, it is much better to use one of the authorised dealers, who one can find without much difficulty in the main streets.

Assel Atambayeva has been part of the Group Companies for more than a decade. The educated, respectful and well read Assel is normally my guide during the visits to Almaty. She is a fount of information and knowledge about Kazakh culture, traditions, places of interest and the like that she makes the best guide to tour the city with. She suggested a walk from the office to the Abay metro station as exploring the metro stations was the main agenda for the evening. Every now and then she would draw my attention to an important building, statue or mural and explain the importance of the same.

The Uyghur Musical Comedy Theatre on Nauryzbay Batr, that can seat about 500 spectators, is the world’s first and only professional theatre of the Uyghurs. The bust of Shaken Almonov Kenzhetaiuly, the father of Kazakh cinematography, iconic director and actor, stands prominent on one of the walls of the house where he lived from 1964 up until his death in 1970. Bright and large murals light up the broad streets of Almaty. Well laid out pedestrian walkways and road crossings make the city ideal for those who wish to explore the city by foot. But do not be fooled, inclines and distances can bring weariness to the legs without notice.

The Golden Square is considered a historical point in the city. Many government buildings are located in the area. Around the Square was where the city’s elite and numerous poets, politicians and musicians lived. Besides, the buildings that boast of Stalin-era houses, the area also has many parks and public gardens, fountains and eateries. A statue of Telebaev dominates the central fountain in the Golden Square. The renowned University of International Business, which has a fair share of international students, is in the vicinity. Almaty is also popular with international students, particularly from India, for medical studies.

The Almaty Metro began operations in 2011 after being under construction for over 23 years. Construction, which began in 1988, was affected by shortage of funds following collapse of the Soviet Union and corruption scandals. When designing the stations, the best traditions of architectural design set by Soviet architects, were continued. Each station is unique and combines high aesthetics, historicism, and national artistic motives. The stations are named after important people and places and every station is decorated with a thematic panel that tells about the cultural and historical heritage. When decorating the walls and floors, natural facing granite stones of the Kurdai, Kurta, and Kapal-Arasan deposits of Kazakhstan were used. Now the metro system spans 14 km with 11 stations. Expansion works are already on. The metro system is popular with students and tourists.

80 KZT is the fare for a one way trip, irrespective of the distance one wishes to travel to on the metro. The escalator to the platform of Abay station is a steep slanted drop of nearly 80 meters traversed in about 2 minutes. The corridors are long and well lit. Works of celebrity artists are displayed on the walls. Neat and clean, the metro system has elaborate mosaic and art works. At the Abay station, for instance, a large mural of the famed Kazakh poet and philosopher as well as his works are depicted. I was astounded by the Silk Way metro station. The murals are awesome. One of them depicts the route of the ancient Silk Route and important places denoted by landmarks along the way. On a portion of the mural is the Taj Mahal too!

By the time I had done a round trip of the metro my legs could no longer go on. Assel and I decided to have dinner at the Turkish Cafe, Marmaris. It was time to wolf; the stomach was in need of urgent attention. Lentil soup with flat bread and the main course of rice with beef, chicken and veggies quietened the rising revolt within the entrails. The food was easy on the stomach as it was not spicy. Most of us may find it bland, but it is healthy and tasty.

It is not all work in Kazakhstan – To Almaty – 14 August 2022

To stimulate the economy via the tourism and trade sectors, the Kazakhstan government made it visa free for Indians, Iranians and Chinese to travel to their country for 14 days in one trip from July of this year. Moreover, the intended traveller can travel thrice in a span of 180 days for 14 days each. Prior to this policy change getting a Kazakh visa was time consuming and expensive. An invitation from the country and over USD 200 in costs obtaining the visa from Delhi, travel to Kazakhstan was forbidding. Considering the vastness of the country and what it has to offer it was indeed a pity that the visa process was a dampener. I first travelled through Kazakhstan in 2014 when I was on the drive from Cochin to London. I had to obtain 15 visas for the entire three month journey; the most difficult was Kazakhstan and it was obtained in time with some payment under the table too! Now all that is a thing of the past and travel has been freed up with this new order. I am sure many will avail the relaxed visa regime to travel and enjoy the beauty of the ninth largest country and the second largest land-locked country in the world.

A direct flight from India to Kazakhstan is offered only from Delhi by Air Astana to Almaty, the country’s former capital. Hence, as a resident of Chennai I had to take a late evening flight on 14 August to Delhi to take the Air Astana flight to Almaty. Prior to taking the flight to Delhi I had had a word with the Air Astana booking office in Delhi to reconfirm the operation of the relaxed visa regime. They confirmed that it was visa free for Indian citizens and said that in case of any difficulty with India Immigration at the airport I could seek the assistance of the Air Astana airport staff. I was nervous, to say the least, because of previous experiences.

I had a couple of hours to wait out before the Air Astana check-in counters opened. The separate counter for web checked in passengers was a big help. I was first in that queue and the check-in was smoothly handled. However, it was an excruciating experience at Security and Immigration. The queues were long and snaking. Passengers nearing the boarding deadlines were getting exasperated and desperate; understaffed counters, staff on social interaction and passengers stressed out. I was in the security line for an hour and half, slowly inching my way.

Once that was done I had Immigration to contend with – the final frontier, so to say, before I boarded the flight. Naturally, as I had anticipated, at the immigration counter I was asked for the Kazakhstan visa. The officer was not quite convinced that Kazakhstan has decreed free visa for travellers from India. He seemed surprised and not very willing to speak to the airline staff, when I requested him to cross-check. Fortunately, a senior official passing by confirmed the current status of visa for Indians travelling to Kazakhstan. Another gentleman was delayed at the counter because the immigration official did not know that Indonesia has visa on arrival for Indian citizens. I wondered what sort of updation processes are in place to ensure that immigration officials who man the counters are up to speed on the latest instructions. Urgent overhaul is called for in this area to speed up counter clearances.

Boarding for the Air Astana flight to Almaty from Delhi began twenty minutes late in the early hours of 15 August 2022. When it was my turn to present the boarding pass I was handed another one upgrading my seat to Business Class. To say that I was pleasantly surprised is an understatement. Even though I am entitled to travel Business Class while on duty I never avail that privilege. So, here I was travelling Business Class, courtesy the airline. How they chose the passengers to upgrade I was not quite sure, but certainly, I was not displeased. Not plush, but comfortable was the BC seat with a choice of beverages and food. I opted for grilled trout and shrimps for the mains while watching a Liam Neeson flick on the entertainment system.

Sleep was fitful and I was glad to arrive Almaty International Airport ahead of the scheduled time by twenty minutes. With the visa free regime for Indian tourists my stay at the Immigration was short with just a question about the places I intended to visit during the stay in Kazakhstan. The baggage carousels at the airport looked like toy systems. However, I didn't have to wait too long for the baggage.

Kazakhstan is experiencing unprecedented rush of tourists from Russia owing to the war in Ukraine. While this has benefited the system price rise has been relentless in the past few months stressing common citizens quite a bit. I checked into the Uyut Hotel, seemingly a Soviet era relic but, at the same time, well maintained and cheap. The breakfast was substantial in the quaint little dining area. After a heavy breakfast I decided to foot it to the office to burn some of the calories.