It is not all work in Kazakhstan – In Almaty – 16 August 2022

Mansarda is a restaurant on three floors that serves traditional cuisine. The popular restaurant, almost bang opposite the Umar Ibn Al’ Hattab Mosque of Almaty, was chosen for a luncheon repast with colleagues. The mosque is named after the second caliph of the Rashudin Caliphate who succeeded Abu Bakr. Umar was the father-in-law of the Prophet and is known as the father of Islamic jurisprudence. During his time the caliphate expanded its geographical reach and cultural influence.

Primarily meant as a bonding exercise, the get-together soon became a feast of some of the finest Kazakh cuisine. Compote or Kompot, a drink made of dried fruits, started the proceedings. It is a non-alcoholic sweet beverage obtained by cooking fruit such as strawberries, apricots, peaches, apples, raspberries, rhubarb, plums, or sour cherries in a large volume of water, often together with sugar or raisins as additional sweeteners. Kompot may be served hot or cold, depending on tradition and season. Kompot is popular in Central and Eastern European countries, where it was a means to preserve fruits. There were kiwi and lime mint drinks too to slake the thirst. Then came an assortment of salads with mushroom, lentils, spinach, basil, beetroot, carrot and such like. Kazakh breads are quite famous. Baursak and shelpak and other fried flat breads adorned the table in plenty. My choice for the main course was beef laghman on rice with veggies. That filled my side of the table! The portions were too huge for me to do any justice to the tasty fare. 

The evening sightseeing tour, with Assel in command once again, started at the Panfilov Park, which is dedicated and named after the 28 Panfilov Heroes who died fighting the Nazis outside Moscow during WWII. Ivan Panfilov, the General commanding the 316 division, managed to significantly delay the enemy’s advance on the capital, buying time for the defenders of the city. An eternal flame commemorating the fallen of 1917-20 (the Civil War) and 1941-45 (WWII), burns in front of the giant black monument of soldiers from all 15 Soviet republics.

The territory of the Park includes several historical buildings dating back to early and mid-20th century, such as the Ascension Cathedral, the Museum of Folk Musical Instruments and the House of Officers. Nowadays, the park is popular place for the locals and as well for tourists. During the Victory Day celebrations, citizens of Almaty lay flowers and wreaths at the memorial in respect for those killed in World War II.

The Zenkov Cathedral, aka Ascension Cathedral, was built in 1907, entirely out of wood without using a nail. The grand Russian Orthodox Church served as a museum and office during the Russian Revolution and its aftermath. Control was returned to the Church in 1995 and restored as a place of worship. The most recent restoration was between 2017 and 2020. During my previous visits to the Church I could not even imagine the glory of the building due to ongoing restoration works. With the restoration complete and the scaffolds removed the splendour of the Cathedral overawed me. The 56 meter tall church is considered to be the second tallest wooden structure in the world. The first views of the ornate interior of the church, that has many precious icons, is a jaw dropping moment. Normally, photography is prohibited in Russian Orthodox churches. However, in the Ascension Cathedral such restriction was not in force. 

While driving through the main streets of Almaty my attention was directed to the destruction caused to public buildings during the uprising in January this year. The unrest began in the country’s oil producing regions, which is also the poorest, near Aktobe, and quickly spread to the main cities of the country. It is rumoured that more than 1000 people lost their lives in the streets of Almaty itself. The residences that housed the President and the Mayor bore the brunt of public fury. The extensive damage caused to these buildings have rendered them unliveable. The State-run Media Centre also saw a slew of attacks with many journalists the target of attacks. 

A short walk from the Panfilov Park is the Green Bazaar. More than a shopping complex, it was an eye-opener for me. Immediately to the left of the huge building that houses the main market are long stretches of shops selling clothes, jewellery, leather products, backpacks, cosmetics and, with the schools scheduled to reopen, all that are required for children to get back to school such as uniforms, shoes, books and school bags. Despite it being crowded there was neither raised voices nor jostling.

The neat and clean, high-roofed main market was a revelation. One section of the market sold fresh fruits, vegetables, dried fruits, grocery and the other was the wet market. I spent some time at the open shop of Bekhtiyar, the enterprising Uzbek salesman, who made me sample some awesome value added dry fruits. I finally bought a kilo of chocolate laced walnuts and almonds. Had I stayed longer there I would have had to run to the money changer! The wet market section had displays of all sorts of meat – beef, chicken, horse, pork, camel. The fresh meat, particularly horse meat, was much in demand. Unlike in our markets in India the meat did not smell nor was there any vestige of waste.

The Gorky Central Park is more than 100 hectares in area and is presently privately managed. Despite it being a working day the Park was busy, the amusement centre was humming with adults and children. The central portion of the Park is a large lake with a canal system, ideal for paddle boating. Surrounding the lake is a lovely walkway. Cafes, eateries, rides, an aqua park where one can swim with dolphins and sea lions, shady areas with tall trees and activity kiosks make the Park worth a whole day tour. Mercifully the weather was excellent for the outdoors.

Back in the hotel after a visit to Rakhat, the Kazakh sweet and confectioners, and being 'waylaid' by colleagues to present a few traditional Kazakh gifts it was dinner of Laghman and beer at the Uyut Hotel. The stay in Almaty is over and it is now over to Atyrau.