It is not all work in Kazakhstan – In Nur Sultan – 20 August 2022

The stay in Atyrau ATB Grand Hotel had been comfortable. A suite room with breakfast for less than $50 a day is a sweet deal. Its proximity to the airport, just about 20 minutes drive, is a big plus too. The staff are well mannered and helpful. The only negative I experienced was that the hotel gave just one bottle of water and a couple of stubs of coffee and sachets of tea for the entire stay of three days. When I asked why there was no refill everyday when the room was done I was told that that's the policy of the hotel. That was annoying.

The flight to Nur Sultan was full. The two hour flight, with the time changing back to West Kazakhstan time, same as Almaty and half hour ahead of IST, landed on time. Nearing the airport I saw vast swathes of organised farming, something one does not see in other parts of this country much. As I stepped out of the aircraft I was jolted by a draught of cold air. The weather is a great deal different from that in Almaty and Atyrau. My colleague in Almaty, Ruslan, had warned me to expect the changed weather as well as rain.

The airport in Nur Sultan is a great deal different from those in Almaty and Atyrau. It is more modern and spacious. The duty free shops were more alluring and busy, too. The luggage came soon enough. For the first time in Kazakhstan I was all alone to manage logistics from the airport. I had already booked accommodation in a central part of the city. When I looked up alternatives to reach there I got confused. While a bus looked the cheapest option, the fastest was a Taxi. I knew I would find it difficult to use a bus or convince a taxi driver where I wanted to go. Not knowing what to do I went to the airport police room. One of the policemen helped get me a taxi to the hotel I had booked on booking.com.

Light rain and biting winds accompanied the drive to the hotel. The 30 minute drive, about 15 km, cost me 5000 KZT, roughly Rs. 800! Even though I had the help of Google Maps I was unable to find the entrance to the hotel. I got the driver to speak to the hotel and soon enough after a couple of street detours we were met by the Hotel receptionist at the entrance of a building that looked like a huge shopping complex, which I discovered it was. After I settled the kindly driver, the gentle lady escorted me through long corridors flanked by busy shops and two separate elevators to the 38th floor of the complex.

As we reached the compact reception of the VIP Hotel I was astounded, nay blown, by the stunning views of the city from there. At the reception I made the full payment and handed over my id for their record. The Hotel has a set menu for breakfast. I chose to have omlette and toast the next morning. The Hotel is on a portion of the 38th floor of the huge complex. Though not large, the room was comfortable, neat and clean with awesome views. The prospect for sightseeing looked a bit bleak with the light rain. However, by late afternoon the weather magically cleared and I sauntered out to experience some of the nearby sights.

The Nur Astana Mosque was 500 meters from the apartment. Fortunately, as the weather had cleared it was perfect for a leisurely walk. Considered to be the third largest mosque in Central Asia, the Nur Astana Mosque was established in 2008 with the height of the mosque, 40 meters, signifying the age at which the Prophet received the revelations and the height of the minaret, 63 meters, signifying the age at which the Prophet passed on. The mosque has a capacity of 5000 with a different section for women. The mosque was a gift based on an agreement between the President of Kazakhstan and the Emir of Qatar.  There is a lovely garden around the mosque where one can walk around or relax.

The Baiterek Tower was built in 2002 as a symbol of the shifting of the capital from Almaty to Astana, as Nur Sultan was known then. The monument blends the folklore of the mythical tree of life and the magic bird Samruk, which laid its egg in the crevice of two branches of the tree. The top floor of the monument is at 97 meters to signify the year, 1997, of the announcement of shifting of the capital city. The tower is one of the major tourist attractions of the city. For a small fee one can take the elevator up to the top floor and luxuriate in the magnificent 360 degree views of the city. The visitors waiting to go up the elevator were so numerous that I decided to skip it for then and try my luck the next day. The manicured gardens are a joy to walk around.

I stepped across the road to the Singing Fountain, which apparently is a stunning musical fountain with a light show every night. That is reserved for another day, for today I had to take advantage of the bright weather. The view of the Presidential Palace from the Singing Fountain with two golden towers flanking a central vista was truly glorious.

Dinner was at the traditional Saksaul restaurant, just a stone's throw away from the apartment building. Comfortable seating, aesthetic lighting and a good layout impressed me as I walked in. The smart Margulan was assigned to me. He seated me near the kitchen so that I could see how the preparations were made. I settled for a Pilav with beef chunks and a compote. I took my time to get through the portion.

The evening air was cool and salubrious. I walked around a bit before calling it a day. One thing must be said about this country. I have never seen an instance of eve teasing or street Romeos. They move around freely without fear of being molested or assaulted. And, this is nothing to do with the dress they wear, as is propagated by many in our country. There is so much more respect for women in this part of the world. This is true in South East Asian countries as well.