When I am in Kerala, normally, during the season of Onam I prefer to spend time indoors - except when I feel like having some Ada Pradhaman at a 'Payasam Mela' - because the roads are congested beyond imagination and there is hardly any place you can go without been jostled around. As it is, the density of population of the State of Kerala at 860 per square kilometre is more than twice the national average. Besides, the density is higher in the coastal regions of Kerala as compared to the mountainous east. Therefore, Kochi and Trivandrum have higher density of population than Idukki, for instance. Trivandrum, with a density of population of over 2200 per square kilometre is right up there in the jostle index, if I may say so. Kochi is not too far behind. While I agree than density per se is not a matter of concern, what is, however, is poor civic amenities and utilisation of public space. 
Having said all that about my concern of snaking vehicular traffic and shoulder to shoulder march of homo sapiens, this season it was different. I had two unavoidable social functions to attend in Kerala on the 3rd and 10th of September. I had the week in between to spend as I pleased. I decided to spend four days in Munnar because the hill station town is a couple of hours drive from both Kochi and Kanjirapally. Moreover, while looking for accommodation in Munnar I found that the rates were quite reasonable with unheard of discounts being offered. I could not believe this at first. When I sought answers to this I came to know that most of the tourist places in Idukki district were virtually deserted due to incessant rainfall and a red alert for the district. Many landslides and disruption to road movement were reported in the recent past. That sealed my decision. Munnar it would be for me between 6th and 10th of September 2022.
I read up about the places to visit in and around Munnar and made a detailed itinerary for the four days. On the day I was to arrive in Munnar, I planned to meet up with my cousin, Dr. Joseph George, who was holidaying with his wife, the acclaimed singer, Sharon, their precocious daughter, Ammu and Sharon's mother. They were put up at The Panoramic Getaway in Anachal, about 10 kilometres short of Munnar. It took me nearly three hours of laid back driving to reach there from Kakkanad, Kochi. The roads were narrow, but decently surfaced for most parts.
It rained quite a bit on the way; the low traffic ensures that there were no snarls. The seven tiered Cheeyappara waterfalls was the first place I stopped on the way. It is between Neriamangalam and Adimali. The snowy white water cascading with such force over 1000 feet was a sight to behold. The recent rainfall in the region lent the falls bounteous flow. The Vallara waterfalls is just a kilometer from there. Its source is the Periyar River and cascades about 200 feet and goes into a deep gorge with thick vegetation. The heavy rainfall in the recent months, while wrecking havoc in many places, certainly made the waterfalls a standout attraction in the area. Their cascades are milky white but the rivers, like the Deviyar, that are in full flow are so muddy that it feels like sludge.
We left The Panoramic Getaway for the day trip to Kanthaloor and Marayur. The latter is a settlement that dates back to the Stone Age. The inhabitants are said to have crossed over from Tamilnadu 10,000 years ago. Marayoor, Kanthaloor, Keezhanthur, Karayur and Kottakudi form what was in the past called Anju Nadu or Five Lands. Marayur is now famous for its jaggery. There are vast areas where sugarcane is cultivated. The quality of sugarcane and water combine to produce jaggery that melts like butter in the mouth. They also make different variations of jaggery that has medicinal properties.
The process of making jaggery is itself a tourist attraction. And there are many on the roadside. One can also have fresh cups of sugarcane juice in these places, for a small price of course. A massive cauldron over a bagasse lit fire with huge quantity of sugarcane juice is constantly stirred so that the sediments do not stick to the bottom of the cauldron. Tourists too try their hand at stirring the cauldron with a big paddle. Attaining the right consistency while stirring the sugarcane extract is key. At one stage of the process the jaggery becomes toffee. It sticks to the teeth and slowly melts - pure, unadulterated toffee. It takes over two hours for a batch of sugarcane juice to become jaggery and then time for the cooling down process. The jaggery is moulded into balls for sale. I bought 10 kgs of the lovely stuff at Rs. 90 a kilogram for distribution among family and friends.
Kanthaloor has become a touristy place because of the climate and picturesque landscape. Advertisements of homestays and budget accommodation can be seen everywhere. A wide variety of tropical crops are grown in these parts. To experience all of the above a visit to the Thoppan farm is a must. The former PT master and his teacher wife have nursed a five acre plantation of a wide variety of trees and fruiting plants over the past three decades.
Greeting one at the entrance of the property is the original Xmas tree, brought from Israel. The flowers hang upside down. Oranges, apples, passion fruit, custard apple, BlackBerry, strawberry, pear, peaches and a host of other fruits are grown in the farm. Birds and animals help themselves to the fruits generously. Blackberry wine was available for sale. The entrance fee is too modest for the trouble the family takes to take visitors around explaining the bounty around. The couple's youngest daughter, Neethu George Thoppan, recently cleared the IFS exam and is currently under training in Mussoorie. The views of the Western Ghats from there and the salubrious climate are feast for the eyes and lungs. Across the Western Ghats is Kodaikanal, in Tamilnadu
It was indeed a most informative and fascinating trip with my cousin and his family. After dropping them off at The Panoramic Getaway, from where they were driving back to Kochi the same evening, I drove off to Hotel Hillview, very close to the Munnar market, where I was booked to stay for four nights. The room was large with all amenities and it was ideal to rest the weary bones. After leaving the luggage in the room I went to the market to buy snacks, milkmaid and coke and fill up fuel. Armed thus I was ready for the night cap of rum and coke accompanied by masala peanuts. Fuel is about two rupees costlier in Munnar than in Kochi. I ordered dinner from the hotel dining - chappati and chicken curry with cold coffee and ice cream to cap it. It had been a long day and my body went limp as soon as I tucked myself in and switched off the lights.
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