It is not all work in Kazakhstan – In Nur Sultan – 21 August 2022

Last evening, as I was walking around I realised that Astana is a city of very long distances. Hence, I would not be able to do what I wanted to do unless I had transport. Waiting for buses or hiring expensive taxis wouldn't be the solution. Therefore, I turned for assistance to my colleague in Almaty, Assel. I asked if she could arrange a private taxi for a full day of sightseeing this day and airport drop on the next day. She was sure she could find some help and, sure enough, in a short while she arranged Akzhol, who agreed to be at my accommodation by 9 am. He was, and thus started an action packed day when I walked for nearly 7 hours despite being taken around in a taxi!

The Mangilik El Triumphal Arch is one of the most recognisable architectural structures in the capital city. The name of the arch means "Eternal Country". The arch is 20 meters tall and symbolises 20 years of the country's independence. It has an exhibition hall and observation platform, which were closed at the time of visit. While visiting the arch one comes face to face with the culture of Kazakhstan and the history of the capital. One can visit the exhibition hall, admire the façade and interiors decorated with all sorts of symbols, ornaments and sculptures that have their own special meaning. The wide observation platform on the top offers magnificent view of the capital's skyline.

Expo 2017 was held in Astana between June and September. Pavilions and other facilities were set up over 25 hectares, well connected from the city centre, airport and railway station.  115 countries and 22 international organisations participated in one of the largest events held in erstwhile Soviet states. The expo's theme was "Future Energy", and it aimed to create a global debate between countries, nongovernmental organizations, companies and the general public on the crucial question of how to ensure safe and sustainable access to energy for all while reducing CO2 emissions. The Expo had nearly 4 million visitors. Presently, the Expo 2017 grounds and pavilion space have been converted into commercial space for corporates, start-ups, education and research entities. The marquee tenant of the Expo grounds is the Astana International Finance Centre. The iconic building of the Museum of Future Energy can be seen from most parts of the city.

From the expo grounds I walked across the road to the Mega Silkway Mall, which was designed on the principle of shopping street – shopping streets, popular both in European culture and in the eastern bazaars of the Silk Road. This is a “city in a city” with its own “streets”, covered “squares”, and art objects. The mega mall has an area of 140 thousand square meters and, prior to the coronavirus pandemic, received over a million visitors every month.

When we reached the Hasrat Sultan Grand Mosque the car parking was almost all taken. I took time to walk to the mosque admiring the symmetrical fountains, flower beds and the calm surroundings. The Hasrat Sultan Grand Mosque, opened in 2012, is the largest in Central Asia and its 130 domes symbolises unity of its multiple ethnic groups. The architecture is a perfect blend of Kazakh and Islamic styles. It has a large number of 'biggest' attributes, such as the Qibla Wall, size of the chandelier in the Haram section, carpet, door and courtyard. All in all, a magnificent structure spread over about 11 hectares that can be seen from almost all parts of the city.

The Lover's Park is considered one of the most romantic places in the city. Bang opposite the mega entertainment and shopping hub, Khan Shatyr, the bronze statue of a boy and girl welcomes one to the park. The park is also popular for wedding ceremonies and photoshoots.

Khan Shatyr is the largest marquee in the world according to Guinness World Records. The unique building has all the world's leading brands under its roof, cafes, food court, entertainment, aqua world, and what have you. As was to be expected, the entertainment section was full with adults and children having their share of fun. The food court was doing thumping business. It was here that Akzhol, my driver companion, and I had a simple meal of pilaf, baursak, salad and green tea.

Nur Sultan has two concert halls, the older one is the Astana concert Hall. It is the former Congress Hall and is now a centre to propagate the Kazakh tradition of music. The Central Concert Hall is a turquoise tiled structure with a swirling, circular design like the petals of a flower. It was designed by an Italian architect and inaugurated by the President in 2009. The main hall can accommodate 3,500 guests and is one of the biggest of its kind. It  is capable of hosting different events, from classical to pop music, ballet and conferences thanks to its acoustic flexibility. Normally symphony orchestra and traditional Kazakh music concerts are held here.

Ak Orda is the Presidential Palace that occupies more than 37,000 square meters. The striking building was occupied in 2004 and is the centrepiece of architectural marvels stretching from Khan Shatyr to the Palace of Peace and Reconciliation, from Baiterek to the Central Concert Hall. The Government office, Senate and the Supreme Court of Kazakhstan are all within a large square facing the Presidential Palace.

The Presidential Park is one of the largest urban parks in Astana and houses the Palace of Peace and Reconciliation with large number of flower beds and trees and is located across the Ishim River. It is surrounded by premium residences and has many activities for kids and adults.

The Kazakh Eli monument is a symbol of the country's sovereignty and has a 91 meter column with Samruk, the sacred bird, perched on top depicting the country's aspirations for sustainable development. The monument is at the centre of the Independence Square. Just a short walk away is the Hasrat Sultan mosque, which is a Friday prayer mosque with a capacity of 10,000. After visiting the Independence Square Akzhol dropped me at the Hotel. I wanted to take some rest before venturing out again. With the departure from Nur Sultan scheduled for the next day I packed the bags one last time and had a cup of coffee before taking a short nap.

I was told that the Singing Fountain comes alive after the sun has set. Every day there is a light show with music and dancing fountains. When I saw the slivers of light getting extinguished in the horizon I took a leisurely walk to the Baiterek Tower and thence to the Singing Fountain. The show had not yet begun and there were many waiting in anticipation.

With the lights on the view of the Tower and from there the whole vista to the Presidential Palace looked gorgeous. I could not take my eyes away. When the fountains started dancing to the music it was truly a fascinating experience. I spent more time there than I had intended to. With a slightly cool breeze the time spent there was most enjoyable. I moved away only when the stomach started begging for some inputs.

On the way back to the hotel I dropped by at a small restaurant for a plate of chicken noodles. With that the day was done and dusted. Nur Sultan is a beautiful city and one needs at least three days and a car to do full justice. I did what I could in one. The rest are for another visit.