In The "Land Of Unexpected Treasures" - In Bandar Seri Begawan - 2 August 2026

It rained heavily last night for close to two hours with thunder threatening to spoil the last full day of my stay in Bandar Seri Begawan. However, when I woke up in the morning, from my bedroom window, I could hardly see any evidence of that rain. The drainage system must be superb, is what I concluded. I had breakfast early. The fare was cereals, bread and spreads, juices, coffee, soup, steamed rice, nasi lemak, chicken curry, boiled eggs, spinach curry, salad, dim sum, local cakes, etc. I had a hearty breakfast and prepared for a long day. The coffee was awesome.

I booked a taxi using the Dart App and Rizwan soon turned up. A very friendly chap, he explained to me that the main roads are closed on Sundays till noon so that locals and residents can use them to exercise and stretch their limbs after a week at work. Rizwan told me that education is compulsory and they pay 3 BND a year up to higher secondary. The fee included books and uniforms!

To my query as to how most Bruneians speak excellent English, he said that only Malay and religious education was covered in Malay language. The other 6 subjects were taught in English. Students’ higher education is covered by the government anywhere in the world; most prefer education in London. When I told him that I found the locals extremely polite, hospitable and helpful he said that they have the time to be so because of the slow pace of daily life.

He said that the government did not find it worth their while investing in public transport because of low demand. Bruneians also generate sufficient funds to travel to place alike Malaysia, Singapore and Western countries. Before dropping me off at the Kianggeh Market he recommended a restaurant called Soto Pabo for its views. It was indeed an excellent interaction with a youngster who openly disclosed that he had been, at times, critical of the government in the past. But when he travelled to other countries, he realised the heaven he already was in!

The Tamu Kianggeh Market has been around since the 1980s. Strategically positioned near the bank of the Brunei River, the market served as a spot for people from Kampong Ayer water village and from the mainland to sell, barter and trade their products and produce. The Tamu Kianggeh Market is now a roofed street market in Brunei presenting a wide array of shopping and eating alternatives. It showcases all the distinguished goods of Brunei along with the traditional hand-woven handicrafts.

The Tamu Kianggeh Market comprises of a series of stalls selling different products ranging from food and beverages to souvenirs and groceries. Gulingtangan, a traditional brass musical instrument is played by the local people at the market and the ancient goods and antiques which are almost dying out are at a sale to preserve the culture.

Opposite the entrance to the market is the revered Teng Yun Temple, which is cherished as Brunei's oldest Chinese temple. It offers a serene spiritual escape and a glimpse into rich cultural heritage. Visitors can appreciate its colourful architecture and the peaceful ambiance, though it can get busy during major festivals like the Chinese New Year.

From the temple I walked to the Brunei waterfront, which is a scenic promenade offering stunning views of the Brunei River and Kampung Ayer. It's a popular spot for strolls, jogging, and enjoying the fresh breeze, with lush greenery and charming cafes lining the area. On Sunday mornings, as it was today, the area is car-free, creating a perfect environment for leisurely walks and birdwatching.

Originally known as the Royal Customs and Excise Wharf, the waterfront has a rich history as a port and entry point for passengers and imported goods arriving by sea. In 2011, the waterfront was redeveloped into a scenic promenade, enhancing the nightlife in Brunei's capital. I walked along enjoying the awesome scenery of the village on stilts, the river and the businesses in action.

I took the short Boat ride to Kampong Ayer and got off at the jetty near the Kampong Ayer Cultural and Tourism Gallery. Entrance to the gallery is free. And I spent a fascinating half hour in the gallery taking in the historical importance of the water village that goes back to over 1000 years. It was the seat of administration and the Sultanate functioned from Kampong Ayer till the end of the 19th century. Besides, being the administrative hub, it was the never centre of commerce and port related activity.

Things started changing in the early 20th century with people moving to the mainland in large numbers to take up newer opportunities. However, the welfare of the historic water village, the largest anywhere in the world, has been a major focus point of the administration. Clean drinking water and electricity is ensured at all costs.

Nearly 29 km of wooden and concrete boardwalks link the massive community. Known as the "Venice of the East", the 10 sq. km area is home to over 10,000 people. The cultural centre has work of arts and crafts on sale that are products of the village. There is a watch tower, from where one can get panoramic view of the water village.

After walking around the village boardwalks for about half an hour I hailed a water taxi to get to the mainland. A fellow lady passenger struck up a conversation with me. When she knew that I wanted to go on a river cruise she told the boatman to do the needful. A deal was struck for a one-hour ride for 20 BND, with a promise that he would show me the proboscis monkeys that are native to the Borneo forests.

The Brunei River has been the epicentre of civilisation and economy as a bustling heart of commercial activity and foreign trade. The Brunei River empties into the South China Sea through the Brunei Bay. The tributaries of the river run through the city of Bandar Seri Begawan.

The hour-long experience on the Brunei River made me take in the rich ecosystem embellished by mangrove trees, pidada tree, Menkuang tree, Pong Pong tree and the Nipah Palm. The Pidada tree is a hardy mangrove species that has edible leaves and fruit known as mangrove apple. The dried Menkuang leaves are trimmed and woven into mats, baskets and bags. The Pong Pong tree has white, fragrant flowers and waxy green leaves that make the tree look attractive. The Nipah Palm grows in clusters along the shoreline and is a useful tree. Its young shoots, fruits, sap and flowers are all edible.

We stopped for a few minutes near the Tamoi Mosque, which is within the water village cluster. The structure features a distinctive Moorish-style architecture, characterized by its towering white minarets and green-painted domes. The mosque was opened in 1987. This stilt-supported sanctuary can accommodate more than 1,000 worshippers at a time.

The next prominent site was the highly restricted private property, colloquially referred to by names like Istana Ameerah or the Azrinaz Mansion. It is a massive neoclassical structure featuring a prominent central dome and a grand elevated driveway bridge leading up the hillside. It is closed to the general public with no photography or entry permitted near the gates.

One can also fleetingly see the Istana Nurul Iman, the official residence of the Sultan of Brunei. It is officially recognized by Guinness World Records as the largest residential palace in the world. The prominent golden dome peeking above the lush canopy of trees is a signature architectural detail of the complex. The palace's name translates to "Palace of the Light of Faith". The palace is typically closed to the general public, except during the annual celebrations when it opens its doors to visitors for a few days.

Then onwards, in search of the proboscis monkeys. The boatman stopped at a small niche in the mangrove and pointed to some of the tree where the monkeys were feasting on the leaves of the trees. It took me a long time to pick them out in the foliage. The views were not up, close and personal. However, when some of them jumped from one tree branch to another I got a good glimpse of them. But they were too fast for my camera. Their distinctive long nose and brown fur are their hallmarks. Besides, they are good swimmers too, perhaps a good defence mechanism to avoid predators.

With the slated activities done I hailed a taxi on the Dart App and got to my accommodation. On the way, I darted into the Lof bakery and picked up a few items for lunch and dinner. Brunei, the 71st country, is done and dusted.