In The "Land Of Unexpected Treasures" - Bandar Seri Begawan - 1 August 2026

When I checked in last evening at the Higher Hotel, I was given two breakfast coupons each for the three nights I was booked to stay there. When I checked with the staff if they had mistakenly given me the additional coupons, they told me matter of factly that I could bring a guest along for breakfast! Breakfast consisted of local food, the only 'continental' items being cereals.

There was fried kuay teow, garlic butter rice, steamed rice, ABC soup, sweet and sour chicken, chicken spring roll, veg spring roll, eggs, local cakes, bread and a host of spreads, coffee, fruit juices, etc. A warning was displayed at the buffet counter that a fine would be levied in case 100 grams or more of food is wasted. Never seen this warning anywhere before. But I have seen people wasting so much food in a buffet, it isn't funny.

I walked about 2 km to the Our Lady of Assumption Church, the first on the itinerary for the day. Even though it had rained the previous night, it was hot and humid. By the time I reached the church I was already bathed in sweat. Before the construction of the church started in 1957, a small chapel, a school, and a parsonage existed in a land donated by a devout local Catholic.

The construction took 12 years to complete, and the church was consecrated on Aug. 15, 1969, the feast of Assumption of Mother Mary. A painting of Mary Assumed into Heaven, just below a crucifix of Jesus, adorns the backdrop of the church’s main altar. It is a simple place of worship, maintained neatly. The St. George's School building functions in close proximity to the church. I was indeed happy to see the discipline of the children in disposing of garbage and queuing up to enter their classrooms.

Almost next door to the Our Lady of Assumption Church is the St. Andrew's Anglican Church. It is a notable Christian place of worship known for its bright blue exterior and adjacent educational institution, offering regular English and multi-lingual services. The St Andrew's school is Brunei's first Anglican school, founded in 1956, as a primary school with 70 students and 3 teachers. More than 1000 students from Brunei and other countries now attend the school.

The Royal Regalia Museum is not far from the two churches. Footwear has to be taken off at the entrance of the museum and bags have to be deposited in a locker after securing an entrance ticket for 5 BND. The Royal Regalia Museum is home to the Sultanate’s heirlooms and regalia. From golden chariots to olden-day symbolic weapons and shields, exhibits of His Majesty’s Silver and Golden Jubilee celebrations, and ornate mementos from historic Brunei, this museum is embellished with the beauty of Brunei’s past.

The museum also takes one through the Sultan's life from birth to the current day, including the commemoration of Silver and Golden jubilee celebrations. The presents given to the Sultan by various visiting dignitaries are carefully displayed in the museum. Right at the entrance to the museum visitors are greeted with the very same golden chariot used to bring the Sultan through the city streets during the Silver Jubilee celebration in 1992 and was also used during the visit of Queen Elizabeth II. A tour well worth the time spent.

Not far from the museum is the Secretariat building. It is a historic colonial-style landmark built in 1952 and served as the early main seat of the Brunei government. At the intersection after the building one comes across the Memorial Clock Tower, established in 1959, which stands as an enduring symbol of the close ties and friendship between Brunei and Malaysia

The bright blue mosaic tiled tower features four large Seiko clocks extending from each upper corner face. Besides, the clock tower serves as the country’s "Zero Mile" marker. It is the starting point from which all official road distances between the capital city and other destinations across Brunei are measured.

Just after the intersection is the historical site where the independence of Brunei was proclaimed from the British Government in 1984. It is now the venue for national celebrations such as the one recently concluded, the Sultan's 80 birthday celebrations.

Another short walk from there is the Yayasan Sultan Haji Hassanal Bolkiah Complex. It is a prominent, government-owned shopping and commercial centre opened in 1996. It features retail shops, eateries, and scenic views of the Kampong Ayer water village and the Sultan Haji Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque.

As I was crossing the road from the Yayasan I met a young man from the Czech Republic, who was evidently vlogging using a GoPro. We spoke for a brief while. He was confused by the lack of people on the streets or in visitor locations. He recalled fondly his three visits to India but bemoaned the total lack of hygiene.

Close to the Yayasan is the BIBD Frame, which is an iconic public landmark that offers panoramic photo views of the Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque. It is located on the lawn of Taman Mahkota Jubli Emas park. Bank Islam Brunei Darussalam is the main Islamic financial institution and the largest bank in Brunei.

The Sungai Kedayan Eco-Corridor - Brunei’s new 12-hectare riverfront park - was officially named “Taman Mahkota Jubli Emas” by the monarch in 2017. The park’s manicured lawns, colourful tulips and imposing baobab trees are all set against the majestic backdrop of Sultan Omar ‘Ali Saifuddien (SOAS) Mosque. The Eco-Corridor is an urban redevelopment project aimed at revitalising the capital city. The Kampong Ayer water village is linked to the mainland and internal zones via the Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddien Pedestrian Bridge.

From the riverfront walkway one can see the building of the Supreme Court of Brunei. The highest court in Brunei is the Court of Appeal, which is part of the Supreme Court of Brunei Darussalam. For Islamic law matters, the Sharia Court of Appeal serves as the highest authority.

The Madrasah Building is a notable architectural landmark located directly opposite the iconic Masjid Omar Ali Saifuddien. The architecture of the building blends local Malay and modern Islamic design, with a prominent minaret. This building houses offices for the Ministry of Religious Affairs such as the Sharia Affairs Department and Religious Enforcement Division.

The Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque is one of the two state mosques in Brunei, the other being Jame' Asr Hassanil Bolkiah Mosque. Built by the 28th sultan of Brunei, this mosque was completed in 1958 at a cost of US$5 million. The mosque's design was significantly influenced by Mughal architecture. Recognisable by its gold dome that dominates the city's skyline, the mosque is one of the most photographed icons in the country.

The interior is decorated with rugs from Saudi Arabia and walls made of Italian marble. While the mosque is a popular tourist destination due to its façade, its main purpose is as a place of worship. The mosque can accommodate 3000 worshipers at a time and non-Muslims can enter only at specific timings. At the time of my visit, I couldn't enter but got a glimpse of the grandeur from the threshold of the mosque.

Adjoining the Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosques is a man-made lagoon. In it is the Royal Barge, a stone replica of a 16th-century Mahligai (barge) of Sultan Bolkiah. It was inaugurated by the Sultan on 18 December 1967. It functioned essentially as a pavilion for various religious events, including Quran recitation competitions. These religious events reinforced the government’s commitment to promote Islam as the state religion. The Royal Barge is connected to the mosque by a walkway. It was locked, even though the plaque near the gate indicates that it should be open.

Next on the walking itinerary was the Istana Darussalam, the former residence of Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddien III and the birthplace of Sultan of Brunei, Hassanal Bolkiah. The palace is located on the Brunei River waterfront, with the Supreme Court building on the opposite shore. The building is a tourist attraction, but can only viewed from outside its perimeter fence.  The historic green building is under the protection of the Antiquities and Treasure Trove Act of the Museums Department. The royal family no longer uses the building, although every Friday, representatives of the Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque hold the tahlil ritual there.

By now, around 2 pm, I was ravenously hungry and immensely thirsty, having sweated a lot in hot and humid conditions. Near the Istana I spied a local restaurant and walked in. Among the options was the national dish of Brunei called Ambuyat. It soon arrived on my table; a sticky, gelatinous, and bland starchy bowl that looked more like glue than anything edible. It is derived from the interior trunk of the sago palm. It is meant to be eaten with a portion of fermented durian sauce.

I asked for a spoon to eat the gooey stuff instead of using the chopstick like chandas, a special two-pronged bamboo fork. One small portion of the Ambuyat with the provided dip and I almost gave up. It was the most inedible thing I've ever had. I tried a couple of small portions more and left after paying for it. I've never wasted food. But this was a bit too much for my palate.

Last in my itinerary for the day was the Taman Jubli Perak, a public park located along the banks of the Kedayan River. The 5-hectare park was created to mark the silver jubilee of Sultan Hassanal Bolkiah's accession to the throne. At first, the park included just a fountain and a statue. It has since been transformed into a leisure space with jogging paths and a playground for kids.

It was a short walk from the park to the hotel. I was bathed in sweat and my legs were a bit wobbly from the 7 km round trip. It was time to rest a while. Later in the evening I went to the Hua Ho department store and bought some biscuits and chocolates for my grandchildren. Dinner consisted of a portion of Nasi Katok, bought from a Kaka store near the hotel.