Thursday, November 27, 2025

ALEXANDRIA TO PORT SAID – 7 NOVEMBER 2025

Alexandria was the capital of Egypt from its founding by Alexander the Great in 332 BC until its conquest by the Arab forces in 642 AD. The Nile River, the civilizational identity, empties into the Mediterranean Sea in Alexandria. The White Nile that starts from Lake Victoria in Tanzania and the Blue Nile that originates from Ethiopia converge in Khartoum, Sudan and flows through Egypt before emptying out into the Mediterranean Sea in Alexandria. 

It was a whirlwind tour of the ancient city with an appointment to keep in Port Said before sundown. I had reached Alexandria at 3 am. It did take me some time to locate the apartment where I was booked to stay. After just a three-hour nap I got up to complete the social media post of the previous day. Over a cup of coffee, I posted the piece on Facebook. The two-bedroom apartment was not well kept, in the sense that it didn't seem as if the floors had been swept or mopped after the previous occupant had vacated. However, the views of the Mediterranean and the Corniche from the balcony of the apartment were awesome. I summoned the driver at 9 am, vacated the apartment and left for the sightseeing itinerary in Alexandria. As the day wore on I wished I had more time in the lovely city.

The Stanley Bridge is a 400-meter-long Islamic style landmark with four towers in Alexandria that was built over the sea, the first one in Egypt, to alleviate traffic and enhance the 10-mile-long corniche. The construction of the Alexandria Corniche began in 1925 and took approximately ten years to complete in six phases. It is a popular place for people to indulge in walking, running, angling, etc. I asked the driver to stop at a vantage location to admire the bridge and the views from it. He cautioned me that he would not be able to stop on the bridge for long. However, as it was a holiday, there was not much pressure of traffic across the bridge, and I got my time at the iconic landmark of Alexandria.

The Alexandria Corniche stretches for about 15 kilometers along the coastline, offering picturesque and stunning views of the Mediterranean Sea. I stopped at many places on the way to the Qaitbay Citadel to savour the scenic views, watch people playing pickleball in the beach and eager swimmers frolicking in the shallow waters.

The Alexandria Corniche also boasts a blend of modern and historic architecture, making it a unique and charming location to explore. The promenade is lined with palm trees, colorful flowers, and well-maintained walkways, creating a tranquil atmosphere ideal for a peaceful walk, jog and even angling.

One of the prominent landmarks along the Corniche is the Alexandria Naval Unknown Soldier Memorial, which is dedicated to the unknown soldiers who lost their lives in the sea battles.

The Qaitbay Citadel was one of the most important forts on the Mediterranean coast and was built by the Mamluk Sultan Abu al-Nasr Qaitbay in the 15th century. The limestone citadel was built over the ruins of Ancient Alexandria’s Lighthouse and served as Alexandria’s fence against naval attacks. The citadel’s entrance leads to the courtyard where we find the main tower located in the northwest.

It consists of a massive three-floored square fort. Its four corners are occupied by half-circular towers that carry protruding balconies for the defense of the city. A tank near the tower supplied soldiers and their horses with water. The citadel is now a popular tourist site that houses a mosque, a naval museum, and offers panoramic views of the Mediterranean Sea. Being a holiday, the entire complex was swarming with local tourists, particularly school children.

Pompey’s Pillar was carved out of red Aswan granite. The tallest pillar in the whole of Egypt, it was constructed in the 3rd century AD to support the massive statue of Emperor Diocletian. The pillar's name is a result of medieval European travelers mistakenly believing it marked the burial site of the Roman general Pompey, who was assassinated in Egypt. The name stuck, despite the fact that the pillar was built over 300 years after Pompey's death. The pillar is situated on top of the ruins of the ancient Temple of Serapeum, which was a significant religious and intellectual center. It is possibly the only Roman structure in Alexandria still in its original location.

The Catacombs of Kom el Shoqafa is a unique burial site dating back to 2nd century AD. It is renowned for the remarkable blend of diverse ancient architectural styles showcasing the varied cultural influences that shaped Alexandria. The Catacombs were discovered accidentally in 1900. The necropolis is carved out of solid rock over three tiers and features a grand spiral staircase leading to a central circular hall (Rotunda) with a domed ceiling. The Rotunda connects to the Triclinium, a Roman-style dining hall for funeral feasts and multiple burial levels with intricate carvings.

Originally, it was a private tomb for a wealthy family, which eventually expanded to accommodate many others and is now recognized as one of the Wonders of the Middle Ages. I will never forget my visit to this attraction because I 'lost' a cherished memento I had been carrying around since my first road trip to Khardungla in 2012, when it was the highest motorable road in the world. It fell out of my pocket somewhere in the labyrinths; looked all over but never found it.

The modern Bibliotheca Alexandrina is a commemoration of the Library of Alexandria, once one of the largest libraries worldwide, which was lost in antiquity. How it was lost has many theories, but nothing conclusive. The main attraction of the library is its distinctive seven-tiered, cascading design that can accommodate up to 2,000 patrons at a time in the iconic reading room. It is a modern, cylindrical building with a tilted disc shape. 

A large, granite-clad wall with carvings of different alphabets surrounds the exterior of the humongous building. It has the capacity to hold over 8 million books that serves as a public library, cultural center, and a hub for dialogue and research. The construction of the building took seven years, and it was officially opened to the public on October 16, 2002.

The Montaza Palace and Gardens is a major tourist attraction in Alexandria. Built in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, the sprawling 359-acre property has three palaces, manicured gardens, train ride, cafes, eateries, theme park and much more. The views of the Mediterranean from the palace grounds are a sight to enjoy.

The rather steep entrance fee included access to the gardens, the Royal Train, the Royal Greenhouse, and a soft drink at the Beach Club. The train wasn't working and walking to the Beach Club would have worn out my shoes and kneecaps. The gardens are extensive, and private cars are not permitted beyond the designated parking area, which also has to be paid for. There are options to rent a bicycle or a golf cart to ambulate the massive grounds.

While the main palace is now reserved for presidential ceremonies and is inaccessible to the public, its grandeur is still evident from the outside. The Salamlek Palace and another palace on the grounds have been converted into hotels, offering a luxurious stay with a historical backdrop. The architectural styles blend Ottoman and European influences, reflecting the era's grandeur and opulence.

Straight from the Montaza Palace we drove to Port Said. The road from Cairo to Alexandria had been top class. However, the same cann5be said of the road to Port Said. But, in favour, it must be said that massive infrastructure projects are underway on the route to Port Said from Alexandria. Many power projects are already functional and some of them are under augmentation. The other thing I noticed were massive university complexes on the way. By the time I reached the lovely Marom Port Said Resort and Beach it was past sundown. It was a marvelous facility with its own private beach, residences, swimming pools and restaurants.

I was famished. I tried to get some Egyptian food in the multi-cuisine restaurant, but that didn't work out. The Italian restaurant was busy and well patronized. I went in there and took a window seat. I ordered a shrimp fajita with mashed potatoes. I was interminably bother by a guy smoking at the table behind me. Unfortunately, the ventilation was such that the smoke vented in the direction where I was seated. The food was awesome. Then I overdid it. I ordered a chocolate cake, without bothering to know the size of the portion. It was too much, and I just sat there staring at it for some time before I gathered all the resolve required to further pack the already stuffed belly. After the overkill at the dining table I walked around the large swimming pool a few times before repairing to bed in my first-floor room.

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