A DIWALI VACATION IN JORDAN – AMMAN TO BETHANY BEYOND THE JORDAN, MT. NEBO AND MADABA 24 OCTOBER 2025

From the original itinerary planned for the last two days of sightseeing and visits in Jordan, I recast this day's program. Originally, the plan was only to do Mt. Nebo and Madaba. However, considering that I would be able to fit in Bethany Beyond the Jordan also at the start of the day, the plan was changed. That would also give me more time to explore the Dead Sea area, check out Abdali Mall and visit the Blue Mosque.

In keeping with the changed program for the day, I left for Bethany Beyond the Jordan, after a sumptuous breakfast of scrambled eggs, potato wedges, olives, falafel and a hot cup of coffee. There was plenty more on offer in the buffet. The drive to the visitors' center of Bethany Beyond the Jordan took me about 50 minutes, a distance of 50 km, via the Dead Sea route. The visitors' center in all the attractions I have been to in Jordan have been extremely informative, peopled by dedicated, friendly and hospitable staff and has well maintained amenities for visitors. It was so with Bethany Beyond the Jordan too.

Included in the ticket price for entrance is a free shuttle bus ride and a guide. The site tours are organized by the Baptism Site Commission. The number of tourists, at the time of day, was not many. About 20 of us, from various parts of the world, got into a small sized bus with the guide. At the outset we were told that since it was a sensitive militarized zone, we should stick together as a group and not wander. River Jordan demarcates the territorial jurisdiction of Jordan and Israel.

In 1994 the Israel-Jordan peace treaty was signed, which allowed for tourism to flourish on both sides of the narrow Jordan River. Archaeological excavations safely resumed, as well as the conservation and important restoration of the site. What followed was a resurgence of Christian pilgrimages, and in 2000, Pope John Paul II became the first Pope to visit Bethany Beyond the Jordan. Today, the site remains calm with a serene setting and is a model of peace between the nations where visitors of all faiths can come and enjoy the tranquil atmosphere.

We first disembarked for a few minutes at Elijah Hill, which is supposed to be the place where Prophet Elijah was taken to the heavens in flaming chariot drawn by horses of fire. A symbolic arch depicts the location and is the first station in the tour. Foundations of dwellings can also be seen there indicating pastoral community life from over 3500 years ago.

The next stop was at a souvenir shop. Before disembarking there, the guide told us that, on epiphany day, the peoples of Palestine and Jordan meet at the river border and exchange gifts. The rite includes the "Great Blessing of the Waters," performed by priests at the river. Worshipers collect the sanctified water in bottles to take home for personal use and to bless their houses.

Some pilgrims participate in immersion rituals in the Jordan River, reenacting Jesus' baptism. Therefore, the guide said people could buy
crosses and other religious articles at the shop to immerse in the river for blessings. Those wishing to renew their Baptismal vows could also rent a gown for a dip in the River Jordan.

We went on a board walk from then on. The Jordan River has changed course over the centuries, evidenced by the dry channels and overgrown bushes. The first stop on the board walk was for the first sighting of the River. The place was manned by a Jordanian soldier. The river could just about be seen though the bushes and didn't look very clean. When I tried to get a bit closer for better pictures, the soldier told me strictly to follow the group. Of course, across the river is what is called by Jordanians as "Occupied Palestine".

Then came the most important place, in fact the raison d'etre of the visit, the Baptismal site. Immediately close to the board platform were four square pillar foundations. There was some bit of water in the middle of it, which is supposedly the place where Jesus was baptized by John the Baptist. Apparently, when there is enough water at the site it takes the form of a cross. I thought it was natural because of the four square foundations. The guide said that during high water the foundations get submerged. One of the pieces of evidence cited in favor of the Baptismal site are the five temples that were constructed to celebrate the baptism of Jesus.

From there we walked to the Greek Orthodox Church overlooking the River Jordan, the St. John the Baptist Church located on the east bank of the River Jordan. This church, built in 2003, is situated on the Jordanian side of the river and features a separate bell tower, Byzantine-Greek frescoes, and a ceiling painting of Jesus Christ. The floors have mosaic patterns in the ancient Greek and Roman style.

We were now ready for the River Jordan. While the Jordanian flag flies on the east bank of the river, the Israeli flag can be seen on the west bank. While none in our group opted for a dip in the river, there was a group of about 15 people on the Israeli side who were renewing their Baptismal vows. The river itself is quite dirty, with clear demarcation of how far pilgrims from either side could go. A few in our group dipped their feet in the water.

The tour ended with a visit to the Greek orthodox museum and souvenir shop. The round trip took about 75 minutes. Some of the places like John the Baptist cave and spring were not part of the itinerary, though it is mentioned in your brochures. Nevertheless, a blessing to have been there.

Next on the agenda was Mt. Nebo, about 30 km away from Bethany Beyond the Jordan, through steep and winding, but well-maintained road. The entrance to Mt. Nebo is not part of the Jordan Pass; an entrance fee of 3 JD has to be paid separately. Mt Nebo is a highly revered religious site from which the prophet Moses is said to have viewed the Promised Land before his death. The site features a church with impressive mosaics and a bronze serpent monument, offering panoramic views of the Jordan Valley, the Dead Sea, and even Jerusalem on clear days.

The memorial church of Moses is on an elevated ridge approximately 2,630 feet high. In Judaism, Christianity, and Islam, the holy site is believed to be the burial place of Moses. The church was built in 597 AD on 4th century foundations and subsequently reworked many times. However, the church was abandoned in the 16th century. The Franciscans bought the site in 1932 and have been engaged in excavations and reconstruction of the church and The Monastery. I could gather that the church has undergone reconstruction.

The church has spectacular mosaic floor, including pastoral and hunting scenes, geometric designs, and depictions of animals. The church has a modern altar. Visitors had to be constantly reminded to keep silence and be mindful that it is a place of worship. Pope John Paul II visited the Mt Nebo on 20 March 2000, his first stop in Amman on his pilgrim tour, looked upon the Promised Land and planted an olive tree as a symbol of peace amongst the people living on both sides.

Outside the church, overlooking the "Promised Land" is a modern sculpture of a bronze serpent on a cross, symbolizing the serpent Moses made for the Israelites in the wilderness and the crucifixion of Jesus. The Brazen Serpent Monument is a bronze sculpture by artist Giovanni Fantoni.

Madaba is about 10 km from Mt Nebo and is known worldwide for its amazing mosaic finds in archaeological digs. The history of the city goes back 4500 years and was referred to as the Moabite town of Madaba in the Bible. On the way to Madaba are numerous workshops and retail shops offering lessons on mosaic work and opportunities to take back a small portion of this part of the world with you. At the visitors' centre, a lady explained the most important sites to visit and those attractions that required a separate entrance ticket from the Jordan Pass.

The Madaba archaeological park has some of the incredible mosaic art in the whole of Jordan, and right at the entrance is the oldest piece in the whole country. The floor of the Hippolytus Hall depicts the tragic Hippolytus story vividly. It is housed in a special shelter along with the round church of the Virgin Mary. The Burnt Palace is the remains of a Byzantine residence of the 6th entity that was destroyed by the earthquake of 747 AD.

The entrance to St George's Church is priced at 3 JD and is not included in the Jordan Pass. The central feature of the church is the Madaba Map, a Byzantine-era mosaic map depicting the Holy Land and surrounding regions, created in the 6th century AD, likely by local artisans, for the floor of a Byzantine church. The map originally contained over two million tesserae (small mosaic tiles) in vibrant colors, providing a detailed representation of cities, towns, mountains, rivers, and other geographical features. The map’s most famous feature is its depiction of Jerusalem, showcasing its major landmarks. It offers valuable insights into the historical geography, religious beliefs, and artistic skills of the Byzantine era. The map was rediscovered in 1884 during the construction of the modern Church of St. George. The Madaba Map is by no means a precise topographical representation in the modern sense. Its primary purpose was to convey a religious and symbolic understanding of the Holy Land.

The St John the Baptist Roman Catholic Church charges and entrance fee of 1 JD. At the time of my visit a church function was on with a few members, apparently celebrating the Confirmation Sacrament of a boy. The church was built in 1913 and was declared as a shrine of St John the Baptist in 1966 by the Vatican and since then a large number of pilgrim shave been visiting the church. The showpiece of the church is the Acropolis museum where on exam see a Moabite well dating back 3000 years and is still functional. The museum holds the replica of St John's severed head. Climbing the belfry is only for the study of heart.

The Apostle's church was discovered in 1902, and inscriptions date the church back to 578 AD. Systematic excavations were done by the German Evangelical Institute in 1967. The mosaic floor of the Apostles Church is well preserved and is one of the most interesting pieces in Madaba. By the time I was done with this it was time for me to return to Amman. The entire morning and the better part of the afternoon had been a pilgrimage and a walk down history lane.