A DIWALI VACATION IN JORDAN – JERASH TO AJLOUN TO UMM QAIS TO AMMAN 23 OCTOBER 2025

It was cold in the morning, and a cup of coffee was in order. The so-called kitchenette had a hot plate that had seen better times, no spoons or any cutlery and crockery thoughtfully provided for a homestay experience. To top it all, there was no light in the bathroom, and the antediluvian heater was fit for the Jerash archaeological site.

I was forced to shower in cold water for lack of an alternative. The accommodation was inclusive of breakfast. But the host deducted some amount for the breakfast, and I was asked to pay the rest. To make the payment I kept calling the host, as I didn't have change to leave it in the room, as was instructed. Calls to the host went unanswered; that is the standard. Thus, the Jerash Gate accommodation was way below expectations.

Just before leaving for the Jerash archaeological site, I sought directions from Google Maps, which mentioned that the site opens only at 9.30 am. However, when I reached the visitors' center a bit after 8 am I found it open. The parking lot was empty, and I was the first visitor for the day. I am glad to have chosen to be there at that time as I could tour the site and take photographs without any interference. In about an hour or more, busloads of people had arrived, mostly loud school children on a historical study tour.

Ancient Jerash has been variously known as Jeraso, Gerasa, Antioch, and Pompei of the East. It is one of the important cities established by the Romans and was their seat of power for the region. The City was originally founded by Alexander the Great in the 4th century BC. It saw its golden period during the Roman Empire from 63 BC for about 400 years. The 1000 columned city stood at 576 meters above mean sea level.

The visitors' center opens out into the crafts bazaar, where local handicrafts, textiles and food are on sale. The most important parts of the ancient city are its two main colonnaded streets, Cardio Maximus and Bycamanos, the south and north theatre, the temples of Zeus and Artemis, the West and East baths, the Oval Forum, the Hippodrome, the Cathedral Complex, Souqs, cemeteries, drainage channels, the South and North gates, the Nymphaeum and the triumphal arch, the Hadrian’s Arch. It had become quite hot by the time I finished the tour in a little over 2 hours of leisurely viewing.

After going back to Jerash Gate to pay the host I left for Ajloun, which is about 20 km from Jerash. The majestic Islamic castle can be seen from miles away and it is on a steep mountain top. From a distance it looked as if one has to get to the castle using a ropeway. At the visitors' center, where the elaborate history of the castle is displayed, I was told that I could drive right up to the gate of the castle, which I did.

The castle is located 1123 meters above mean sea level and was commissioned to be built in 1184 AD under the reign of Salahuddin. The purpose of building the castle was to protect the trading and communication routes and establish a pigeon post. It was expanded under various regimes, and the Ottomans used it as a garrison post. Two earthquakes in the early 19th and early 20th centuries destroyed parts of the castle. However, it is now under the diligent care and protection of the Department of Antiquities that restored the castle.

From the Ajloun castle I drove to the Umm Qais archaeological site, which is near Jordan's borders with Israel and Syria. Visitors normally come to Umm Qais on a day trip from Amman to see its extensive ruins and enjoy panoramic views. The Sea of Galilee, aka Tiberias (the lowest freshwater lake in the world), Israel, are visible, and just across the valley of the Yarmouk River is the southern end of the Golan Heights, Syria, under Israeli occupation since the Six-Day War in 1967. Mount Hermon bordering Lebanon is said to be visible in the distance on clear days. Having spent so many days exploring ruins, I did not spend much time exploring the Umm Qais ruins, except walking past some of the important landmarks.

Umm Qais is said to be the place where Jesus worked the Gadarene Swine miracle. Jesus heals two demon-possessed men by casting the demons into a herd of pigs, which then run into a lake and drown. This event is described in the Gospels of Matthew, Mark, and Luke, and is notable for the violent exorcism, the large number of demons, and the destruction of the pigs, which were considered unclean by Jewish law. The exact place where it happened is debated. A guide I met there told me that there is ample evidence that Jesus lived in Umm Qais for nearly six months. What that evidence is, he could not say, though.

Google maps offered me a route to Amman from Umm Qais archaeological site which led me to a check post. Two young army officials examined my passport and told me politely that I could not take that route. I surmised that it was only meant for local people staying the area, as it was a border post. I turned around and took the alternative route to Amman. Till I was 5 km short of my hotel in Amman, everything was fine. Then I hit a traffic snarl and closed roads that led to a longer route to the hotel. The last five km took me about an hour. The traffic congestion in downtown Amman is unimaginable.

After checking in to the hotel, I went out in search of chilled beer. The hotel didn't serve liquor, and I walked nearly an hour back and forth to buy two cans of chilled beer. That's desperation for you. The name of the liquor shop I went to was 'Shadi'. I was surprised to be told that the beer cost 3.25 JD, which I had purchased in Aqaba for 1.75 JD. The shopkeeper calmly explained that the price difference was because Aqaba is a duty-free city. I wished I had stocked up in Aqaba! It would have saved me the walk and the extra money.