A FULL DAY IN LUXOR ON THE WEST BANK – 4 NOVEMBER 2025

The day was packed with activities, beginning immediately after a heavy breakfast in the Full Moon Guesthouse. The plan was to complete all that had to be done in the West Bank, which houses all tombs (associated with the setting sun symbolising death and rebirth) as compared to Temples in the East Bank.

I had booked a taxi to visit the attractions on both the banks of the Nile. Mostafa, the owner of Full Moon House, got me a brand-new Toyota HiAce vehicle motored by the jovial and personable Ashraf. The places I wanted to see had been shared with Mostafa and he had set the itinerary accordingly with Ashraf.

The Valley of the Kings was the first one on the agenda. As we neared the site Ashraf told me that the number of tourist buses there indicated that the place is awfully crowded. He suggested that we go to the Temple of Hatshepsut instead and return to the Valley of Kings later. Sounded sensible and I went with it. Ashraf dropped me close to the ticket counter for the Temple. After purchasing the 400 EGP ticket I took a battery-operated buggy, which is included in the price of the ticket, to the outer periphery of the Temple. The memorial temple of Hatshepsut is in Deir Al Bahri, which is one of the hottest places on earth. Beneath the dramatic rugged limestone cliffs lies the beautiful monument to Hatshepsut, who was possibly the most powerful female ruler of ancient Egypt and its most prolific builder. Her legacy was systematically erased from history by her successors, unable to bear the successful regency and subsequent ascension to Pharaonic status.

The temple was built during Hatshepsut's reign in the mid-15th century BCE. The temple consists of three colonnaded terraces with a central ramp connecting them. Important features include a chapel dedicated to the goddess Hathor and a sanctuary for the god Amun carved into the cliff face. The reliefs in the temple depict Hatshepsut's divine birth, basically used to legitimize her right to the throne. There are also reliefs that show her famous trade expedition to the Land of Punt, a prosperous foreign land of her days.

By the time I had completed the visit, the number of tourists swelled; Ashraf was proved right. He took me to the next attraction, which had considerably less vehicles in the car park at that time.

The Valley of the Kings is a tomb complex that served as burial places for powerful rulers and nobles for about 500 years. A general ticket of 750 EGP gives access to about 60 tombs. However, to enter the celebrated tombs of Tutankhamun, Seti I and Ramesses V & VI, separate tickets are required, which are quite expensive. Entry to Seti I takes up 2000 EGP. While entry tickets are priced lower for locals and students, foreign visitors pay substantially higher and that too by credit or debit card. Cash is not accepted.

The tomb of Seti I has a series of descending corridors and chambers, designed to symbolically represent the pharaoh's journey through the afterlife. The walls are covered with exquisitely detailed, painted reliefs and hieroglyphs that have been preserved for over 3,000 years. These depict scenes from funerary texts like the Book of the Dead and the Book of Gates. The tomb was discovered in 1817 by Giovanni Battista Belzoni. It is the first tomb in the Valley of the Kings to feature a vaulted ceiling, and it contains a large, well-preserved burial chamber. It is one of the deepest and longest tombs in the valley, a visit to it is a must, despite the steep entrance fee.

The tomb of Tutankhamun, the boy king, is one of the most famous archaeological finds in the Valley of Kings because it was discovered nearly intact by Howard Carter in 1922, containing over five thousand artifacts, including his famous gold funerary mask. The near-intact nature of the burial made it a major historical and archaeological discovery, solidifying Tutankhamun's legacy and providing invaluable information about the period as they included chariots, weapons, and thrones, offering an unparalleled glimpse into ancient Egyptian royal life and burial customs.

The tomb of Ramesses V and VI is a shared royal tomb in the Valley of the Kings. It was originally built for Ramesses V and was later usurped by his uncle, Ramesses VI. It is one of the largest and most spectacular tombs, featuring wide corridors, long shafts, and extensive well-preserved decorations of celestial scenes and funerary texts. Despite being looted by tomb vandals in antiquity the tomb contains some of the finest examples of craftsmanship, including elaborate artwork and hieroglyphs.

The Valley of the Queens is an ancient Egyptian burial site that contains the more than 70 tombs of queens, princesses, princes, and other royal family members. The most celebrated among those who rested there is Queen Nefertari, wife of Ramesses II, whose tomb is referred to as the Sistine Chapel of Egypt. Unfortunately, the tomb is currently closed to visitors.

Rammesseum is the mortuary temple of Ramesses II, one of the most significant Pharaohs of ancient Egypt. It is also the second largest temple in Egypt, occupying over 10 Ha. The Habu temple, the mortuary complex of Ramesses III, is among the most well-preserved temples in Egypt. The size is astounding and so are the reliefs and decorations.

The Tomb of the Nobles is a collective term applied to tombs of workers, foremen, priests, soldiers, officials, viziers, princes, etc. The entrance ticket of 220 EGP gains one access to three tombs, of which the tomb of Ramose, a grand vizier, is the most prominent. Vizier Ramose had been the Mayor of Thebes and served Amenhotep III and his son, Amenhotep IV, aka Akhenaten. The tomb is famous for its high-quality decorations that show the transition from traditional art to the Amarna style, and it is a significant site for understanding this historical period.

I sought refuge in the guesthouse from the torturous sun. But not for long. Mohammed told me that that it is best to leave for the felucca ride by 4 pm. A felucca is a traditional wooden sailing boat, often with one or two sails, used in the past for trade along the Nile River. Nowadays visitors hire a felucca to enjoy the sunset, sailing in the River Nile. I hired one too, thanks to Mostafa, but didn't get the right feel of the sailboat as lack of wind played spoilsport. My felucca, and a couple of others, were pulled by a motorized boat to the location from where one could enjoy the sunset. While the sunset was indeed 'el magnifico' the felucca ride was a disappointment.

Back in the Full Moon House, I quenched my thirst with a bottle of Stella. I had informed Mohammed that I would be ready for dinner by 8 pm. Sipping Stella and quietly enjoying the Nile as it sparkled in the lights from streets and buildings on both banks of the majestic river, I rested my weary limbs. The heat had taken a toll, which I realized only after a cold shower.

Mohammed served Tagine, a typical North African delicacy. The pot in which the stew is cooked is of primary importance. Traditional tagine is made in earthenware or clay that consists of a flat, wide base and a conical lid. The conical shape acts as a steam funnel. As the pot heats, moisture from the ingredients rises, condenses on the lid, and trickles back down, continuously basting the food.

The slow-simmered stew typically features a combination of meat (like lamb, beef, or chicken), vegetables, spices, dried fruits, and nuts. I had asked for chicken and, my word, the stew was out of the world. Mohammed told me that it takes patience and a couple of hours to make the dish. His mother, he told me, had put special ingredients in it to make it more flavorful. A thoroughly enjoyable and educative day, albeit exhausting.